So after reading everything I can find on this it seems to all get down to the fact that you need to get your hands on a 1992 or newer front end from an FJ (Lower sliders, rotors & calipers).
This allows you to use the later (1992+) 17" front wheel from an FJ or the FZR1000 front wheel.
The problem is that if you look out on places like ebay there are more old style forks & calipers than you can shake a schtick at, but nothing from the '92+ vintage. Such a dearth of parts and availibility. Is this like a really popular mod or something or is it just seasonal bad luck?
'89 and up, no need to go as new as '92. Patience will get you the pieces, sometimes there are many, other times none.
I used crazedlist to help me find mine. I got the forks, front wheel with tire, brake calipers and axle. Guy even sent me the front fender brace and speedo guide... all for $250 shipped. There are great deals out there if you know where to look.
88 and up.
Ah, Andy,
somehow I knew I would be called out on dissing the Forgotten year. Didn't want to confuse folks.
For the front end mod let me get all the part I need straight:
1) Forks: Need to be from an 88 (or 89) or newer....what about the ABS business. Are the forks any different?
2) Brake Calipers: Again, need to be from a 88/89 or newer, again, is there an ABS vs non-ABS version in these years? I hear alot about gold dot and blue dot...no idea what that is.
3) Rotors: Again, need to be 88/89 or newer and I think I saw a post that listed a bunch of other bikes that had similar rotors (20? mm larger than the 1984-87 models).
After all this I can put on the 88/89 or newer 17" FJ front rim or one from an FZR1000 if I make a set of bushings for the smaller dia FJ axle.
The most absolutey simple approach is to get a complete front-end off of an 88/89 or new FJ......right?
1) Just need the sliders, you can re-use your upper fork tubes if they are okay. ABS doesn't impact the forks. Rebuild the forks (bushings and seals) and put new springs in, too.
2) Go with R1, R6 (I think 2003 or older) or YZF600 calipers. You'll find them cheaper on ebay than you can rebuild the stock FJ calipers for. Blue dots are the plentiful calipers, I think there was one year of gold dot before they went to a radial mount. You can't use the radial mount units. Get the master cylinder and reservoir, too.
3) Correct - you need the newer/larger rotors.
Yep go to the 17" front wheel, newer FJ is the easiest route. Then you can put decent radial rubber on her, too.
There are detailed instructions in the file repository.
I'm new so forgive the most likely dumb question, but why would I want to upgrade from the stock 16" to the new 17" any way? Is it mainly a tire availability thing or better brakes or what?
Quote from: mikeames on October 30, 2010, 01:24:20 PM
I'm new so forgive the most likely dumb question, but why would I want to upgrade from the stock 16" to the new 17" any way? Is it mainly a tire availability thing or better brakes or what?
Yes.
Reduced unsprung weight and quicker handling, too.
Randy T
Indy
^ what he said.
Also if you decide to upgrade the internals and calipers and etc etc etc, there's more options for the later front end.
Thanks!
I know the 17" front is more stable (especially 2 up) but doesn't the 16" front steer a lot quicker?
It seem like my 1100 (with a 16" front) will turn back and forth very quickly with very little effort, but the
1200's with a 17 are quite a bit slower moving from one side to the other.
(popcorn)
Or should I put the crack pipe down? :pardon:
You can get different tire profiles that will change that quite a bit more on the 17, depending on what you want.
A 120/80B16 sits 251mm at the axle. A 120/70R17 puts the axle 257mm off the ground. A 6mm difference can be achieved by simply raising the forks 6mm, if you desire. If you want quicker turn in, more stability, more wear life, insane grip, whatever... you can likely get a tire that will provide those characteristics in the 17. How many 16's are available using technology from even this decade?
Quote from: andyb on October 31, 2010, 08:10:00 AM
How many 16's are available using technology from even this decade?
0? :pardon:
Quote from: Travis398 on October 31, 2010, 08:01:54 AM
I know the 17" front is more stable (especially 2 up) but doesn't the 16" front steer a lot quicker?
It seem like my 1100 (with a 16" front) will turn back and forth very quickly with very little effort, but the
1200's with a 17 are quite a bit slower moving from one side to the other.
(popcorn)
If you don't adjust the rear suspension when you ride two up, it's gonna steer slower (& feel more stable).
I'm gonna guess that the difference in weight between the 16" and 17" will allow it to turn quicker, all else equal.
I've never weighed the fronts, but the rear wheel swap nets like a 6 lb (unsprung) weight reduction. Even if it is only half that on the front wheels, it
is significant.
Someone please point out the obvious if I am off the mark here.
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: Travis398 on October 31, 2010, 08:01:54 AM
I know the 17" front is more stable (especially 2 up) but doesn't the 16" front steer a lot quicker?
It seem like my 1100 (with a 16" front) will turn back and forth very quickly with very little effort, but the
1200's with a 17 are quite a bit slower moving from one side to the other.
(popcorn)
that 16" will also stand straight up if you touch the brakes in a corner ....... the 17" eliminates that completely
Kookaloo!
Quote from: racerman_27410
that 16" will also stand straight up if you touch the brakes in a corner ....... the 17" eliminates that completely
Kookaloo!
So 16" wheels will make my bike wheelie if I touch the brakes in a corner? Sounds scary.
Quote from: derbybrit1 on October 31, 2010, 01:54:45 PM
So 16" wheels will make my bike wheelie if I touch the brakes in a corner? Sounds scary.
He meant under steer....that is if you really missed his point, did I miss your irony in that last comment? I had a sphincter puckering moment from this when sweeping through a right hander, not too fast, letting two faster riders pass on my left. A chipmunk/ground squirrel darted into my path, grabbed both brakes to lose some speed in case I hit it. The bike felt like it was hit by wind and straightened up from the lean (Pucker). Damn glad the bikes had already passed or I would have clipped one or both making a mess of all of us. My 86' CBR 600 had front and rear 17" and much less of this issue. It still wanted to stand up in the corners but it was easy to manage. As funds allow I am upgrading to 17", I have the rear wheel but not all the bits to change over. The front will be much more costly with new brakes and emulators. Maybe I can wheelie in the corners with my 17"s on? The rubber will be much better.
Quote from: Travis398 on October 31, 2010, 08:01:54 AM
but the 1200's with a 17 are quite a bit slower moving from one side to the other.
(popcorn)
Even mine Travis? Because I thought it switched directions plenty quick... I imagine your 1100 turns quicker due to the reduced gyroscopic counterforce afforded by the lighter 1100 rotating assembly. That must be it.
Doug
Quote from: derbybrit1 on October 31, 2010, 01:54:45 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410
that 16" will also stand straight up if you touch the brakes in a corner ....... the 17" eliminates that completely
Kookaloo!
So 16" wheels will make my bike wheelie if I touch the brakes in a corner? Sounds scary.
Hey MArk!
hell yes you wanna be carefull with the brakes at all times :good:
did ya crack 200 @ Texas ?
KOokaloo!
Frank
Quote from: derbybrit1 on October 31, 2010, 01:54:45 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410
that 16" will also stand straight up if you touch the brakes in a corner ....... the 17" eliminates that completely
Kookaloo!
So 16" wheels will make my bike wheelie if I touch the brakes in a corner? Sounds scary.
HEY!
Don't touch that front brake, buddy.
It'll buck you right off.
Quote from: Klavdy on October 31, 2010, 09:44:18 PM
Quote from: derbybrit1 on October 31, 2010, 01:54:45 PM
Quote from: racerman_27410
that 16" will also stand straight up if you touch the brakes in a corner ....... the 17" eliminates that completely
Kookaloo!
So 16" wheels will make my bike wheelie if I touch the brakes in a corner? Sounds scary.
HEY!
Don't touch that front brake, buddy.
It'll buck you right off.
Klavdy's pine cone was much quicker than my ground squirrel, I only mess up the inside of my leathers where other cannot see.
Quote from: Travis398 on October 31, 2010, 08:01:54 AM
I know the 17" front is more stable (especially 2 up) but doesn't the 16" front steer a lot quicker?
It seem like my 1100 (with a 16" front) will turn back and forth very quickly with very little effort, but the
1200's with a 17 are quite a bit slower moving from one side to the other.
(popcorn)
You're correct.... the 16" wheel was a Moto GP derivation, and if you follow Moto GP, you know that they are running 16.5" wheels. They give the quicker turn-in of the 16"ers, and the stability of a 17"er, sorta.... they went back and forth a few times and finally settled on that solution.