I've done a fair bit of searching but i still havent figured this out...
I want to do a 17" rear wheel swap on my '90 FJ. I don't have access to machining stuff and i'd rather not pay a shop for anything.
I was reading the GSXR wheel requires no machining and would work best for me.... BUT you lose the centerstand. Is it possible to retain the centerstand on any type of swap without having to machine anything?
that is the question.
thanks!
"Carsick" has the GSXR wheel on his bike, and i am pretty sure he has a center stand and didn't have to machine anything.
also you could read the last GSXR wheel swap thread http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2694.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2694.0)
and check the files section
Thanks Travis!
That write-up is the one I intend on following for doing the swap, only it mentions to weld the brake torsion arm if you want to retain the centerstand. This, I cannot do because I have no welding equipment.
I am gathering the parts though, with the use of ebay and CL.
I am doing the GSXR rear wheel mod, at least I had better do it. I pulled the trigger and a rear wheel is now in my garage (Simi_Ed, I blame you for the motivation on going 17", thanks). My budget is low and time is hard to find for completing the mod but I have made the commitment. I have not looked at the linkage location needed for the rear caliper but I think you might want to avoid using the center stand mounts. I suspect that I will be mounting a bracket to the rear swing arm to secure the rear caliper. This way rear braking is not affected during rear suspension movement. I also want to avoid welding so I will find a solution before I can Kookaloo with a 17" rear. let us know what you do for a solution to help us with moditis out.
i thought it was possible to extend the center stand bolt and bolt it onto that.
I "assume" if you use a regular bolt you may need a bushing around it for the stand.
post up some pix as you get going
(popcorn)
My centerstand is retained with no modification. One last time (until the next time), the GSX-R brake arm will bolt to the frame using a longer bolt through the lower hole in the RH footpeg. Take out the Allen head bolt and run a 70mm long 8x1.25mm bolt (remember to buy a lock nut or castellated nut while you're there) through in it's place from the outside and secure the rod end with a lock nut inside the frame. Do try to get at least an 8.8 rated bolt, higher being better since this is mounted in single shear. Drill for a cotter pin if you're not in a hurry to get to the rally like me. I was concerned about the caliper ending up somewhere other than 6 o'clock, but it's straight down. I notice no difference in braking behavior from the swingarm mounted stock design, but I'm also not keen on hard rear braking in a corner. I should probably take a pic since folks keep asking...
Doug
please do
(popcorn)
ian.z9 posted this in http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2713.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2713.0)
(http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac57/iankawa/P1030540.jpg)
this is a stupid question and i'm running on little sleep so maybe it's that but...
does that rear brake arm move up and down with the swingarm when it's bolted to the frame where the center stand is?
OMG, I posted this and looked at the next thread and it was this exact question! lol
wait, doesnt someone around here have a rear caliper with a hanger? so they dont need the arm at all?
sorry, i'm new to all this and there is soo much scattered information.
Quote from: wakdady on October 02, 2010, 09:17:15 PM
this is a stupid question and i'm running on little sleep so maybe it's that but...
does that rear brake arm move up and down with the swingarm when it's bolted to the frame where the center stand is?
OMG, I posted this and looked at the next thread and it was this exact question! lol
That depends on if it is connected to (or very near) the pivot point of the swing arm. If it not then it does not pivot the same as the rear swing arm. The amount of pivot is in question...If you don't really use the rear brake then it is simply not an issue. In fact if you don't use the rear brake then you don't need the rear brake assembly and could save some weight. If you use the brake in corners then it might be an issue if the corners are a little bumpy. Too much rear brake in any corner is a recipe for a rear wheel wash out. So, how much of a racer are you? Connect the link to the rear swing arm, or some other place neat the pivot point. Your decision is dependent on whether you think the minor inputs/changes from swing arm movement will affect your riding enjoyment. Its all good till your Kookaloo is adversely affected.
My method (http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd165/Ulysses-WA/FJ1200-17/) allows me to retain center stand. Not that I want to, because the thing scrapes the ground when cornering.
I used a mix of Suzuki GSXR1100, GSXR750 and GSX750F parts.
No machining, no welding.
Bill.
Quote from: wakdady on October 02, 2010, 09:17:15 PM
OMG, I posted this and looked at the next thread and it was this exact question! lol
Quote from: wakdady on October 02, 2010, 09:26:44 PM
there is soo much scattered information.
now you know why.
Ideally one of you guys who's done it could write up a how-to on it... :)
Quote from: andyb on October 03, 2010, 07:40:18 AM
Ideally one of you guys who's done it could write up a how-to on it... :)
Seems like the write up that exists just creates more questions. Additionally, I wouldn't want to contribute to the delinquecy of an FJ'er. I had such a time rounding up the correct parts for my "bolt-on" mod that I question why not get a readily available (and Yamaha) YZF600 wheel and just get the machine work done.
Doug
OK, I've been lazy about writing this again.
Get a GSXR rear wheel assembly. Wheels from 4.5 to 5.5 can be used.
You need the whole assembly - sprocket carrier, wheel, brake support and torque arm, caliper, and all spacers.
You will also need a longer brake hose, and have to make or find an anchor for the front end of the torque arm. Mine is homemade and around the tube next to the centerstand. You do NOT lose the centerstand.
Others we've seen have attached to the footrest, or after bending the arm to the swingarm.
You use your FJ axle, not the GSXR axle.
The whole GSXR wheel assembly is slightly narrower than the FJ assembly and you'll need to add some 3/4" ID (20mm) washers on the outside of the assembly to fill the gap.
With the 5.5" wheel you'll need to space the countershaft sprocket out and mound the rear sprocket as close to the carrier as possible - so inspect your rear sprocket carefully.
Assemble it all and ride.
You will probably want to raise your ride height to at least stock. You may be able to do this by making shorter 'dogbones' (depends on year) or getting a shock with an adjustable length rod.
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 08:25:55 AM
You may be able to do this by making shorter 'dogbones' (depends on year) or getting a shock with an adjustable length rod.
Arnie
If you choose to make your own dogbones, I would suggest making them from something just a bit stronger than the mild steel strap that has been previously suggested.
DAMHIKIJKOK?
Randy T
Indy
Quote from: billwest on October 03, 2010, 03:11:06 AM
My method (http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd165/Ulysses-WA/FJ1200-17/) allows me to retain center stand. Not that I want to, because the thing scrapes the ground when cornering.
I used a mix of Suzuki GSXR1100, GSXR750 and GSX750F parts.
No machining, no welding.
Bill.
what exactly was your method? i wanted to do the GSXR wheel swap but now i'm seeing i have to make my own brake rod. Which parts did you use? Your pics help, but the parts used would be nice.
Hey kids, just in case you were wondering, the sprocket nuts for the GSXR wheel only need between 35-50 ft-lbs of torque to properly tighten them, not the 61 ft-lbs the FJ needs. DAMHIK. :dash2:
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 08:25:55 AM
You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie
are you saying "expect it to rub?"
Quote from: Travis398 on October 04, 2010, 06:21:11 PM
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 08:25:55 AM
You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie
are you saying "expect it to rub?"
No, it doesn't rub. However the overall diameter of the 17" wheel and tire is SMALLER than the stock wheel-tire. To retain stock ride height (and to be able to use your centerstand without a hernia) you'll need to raise the rear of the bike. You may also want to increase this ride height further to take advantage of the difference in handling characteristics that the low profile tire now gives you.
Cheers,
Arnie
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 07:19:55 PM
Quote from: Travis398 on October 04, 2010, 06:21:11 PM
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 08:25:55 AM
You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie
are you saying "expect it to rub?"
to be able to use your centerstand without a hernia you'll need to raise the rear of the bike.
Oh, I thought I was just getting old. THAT's why she seems so hefty!
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 07:19:55 PM
Quote from: Travis398 on October 04, 2010, 06:21:11 PM
Quote from: Arnie on October 04, 2010, 08:25:55 AM
You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie
are you saying "expect it to rub?"
No, it doesn't rub. However the overall diameter of the 17" wheel and tire is SMALLER than the stock wheel-tire. To retain stock ride height (and to be able to use your centerstand without a hernia) you'll need to raise the rear of the bike. You may also want to increase this ride height further to take advantage of the difference in handling characteristics that the low profile tire now gives you.
Cheers,
Arnie
You can figure it out for yourself......
stock 16 inch wheel radius is 8" = 203.2mm plus 80% of 150 series tire is 120mm = 323.2mm
17 inch wheel radius is 8.5" = 215.9mm plus 55% of 180 series tire is 99mm = 314.9mm
so you are loosing 8.3mm of height at the back.
Harvy
wouldn't that be 8.3 mm height of tire
4.15 height at back?
Travis......I was talking in terms of radius from axle to tread...... not diameter.
Harvy
Quote from: wakdady on October 04, 2010, 10:30:20 AM
what exactly was your method? i wanted to do the GSXR wheel swap but now i'm seeing i have to make my own brake rod. Which parts did you use? Your pics help, but the parts used would be nice.
Parts used (all Suzuki):
Rear wheel: GSXR1100 '92-'94
Rear sprocket: GSXR750, 40 teeth '92-'94. This one suits the chain.
Rear caliper, torque arm: GSX750F (Katana) '94
Caliper bracket: GSXR1100W, Part No 69721-46E00
Suzuki spacers: GSXR1100 '92-'94
One extra washer each side.
Tyre: Mich Pilot Road 2, 170 x 60
Hope this helps.
Quote from: Harvy on October 05, 2010, 12:07:14 AM
Travis......I was talking in terms of radius from axle to tread...... not diameter.
Harvy
I think i get it Harvy, although I skipped a lot of Math classes when i was a kid.
I will say that it is one thing on paper but tires differ in size (from different manufacturers)
so the numbers may not match the tire. I remember pulling my bike next to Bob's one day,
and him commenting on how much wider his tire was than mine. sure enough they were marked the
same size but he was right, his tire was at least 10 mm wider.
Agreed Travis....... The Conti I have on the back at the moment is wider than the Michelin I usually use, yet they are both supposed to be 180x55 17s.
With Michi, I can fit the knuckle of my middle finger between the chain and the edge of the tyre......with the Conti, the tip of my little finger barely fits.
Maybe French mms are different to German mms....... :crazy:
Be that as it may, a 17 inch rim with a 180x55 will be shorter than a 16 inch with a 150x80, so it would be a good idea to change the rear height to compensate, unless you like to create a shower of sparks going around corners.
Just as an aside, I am very impressed with the Conti Road Attack...... hangs on very well both wet and dry, and is giving me very good mileage.
And I see they have bought out the next version (aptly called the Road Attack 2). It is a single compound construction, but they cure the middle at a different temp/pressure to the edges to give dual compound tyre performance. And they don't use a mould release agent so you can (as Frank says) ride it like you stole it right from the get go.
Harvy
Quote from: billwest on October 05, 2010, 01:12:10 AM
Parts used (all Suzuki):
Rear wheel: GSXR1100 '92-'94
Rear sprocket: GSXR750, 40 teeth '92-'94. This one suits the chain.
Rear caliper, torque arm: GSX750F (Katana) '94
Caliper bracket: GSXR1100W, Part No 69721-46E00
Suzuki spacers: GSXR1100 '92-'94
Tyre: Mich Pilot Road 2, 170 x 60
Hope this helps.
Perfect info to start with. To clarify a bit:
Is that the 17x5.5 wheel? Looks like the wheel was the same from 90-94, but the watercooled bikes had a different set of spacers for the rotor.
Originally this (on the suzuki) mounted a 180/55R17, you're using a 170/60 for clearance reasons?
Good info :)
Yep, 17 x 5.5 wheel, J17xMT5.50. This one has the straight spokes, not angled like OEM Yamaha wheel.
Also:
64741-17E00 SPACER,REAR AXLE,R
64751-46E00 SPACER,REAR AXLE,L
I used a 170 x 60 tyre, as I find it is slightly taller than the 180 x 55. I get about 1cm clearance between chain and tyre.
The 180 x 55 also fits with sufficient clearance.
Bill.
Click for Ron Ayres Fiche (http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/35/Year/1994/ModelID/6257/Model/GSX-R1100W/GroupID/255604/Group/REAR_WHEEL_MODEL_S_T_V_W)
Quote from: billwest on October 05, 2010, 01:12:10 AM
Quote from: wakdady on October 04, 2010, 10:30:20 AM
what exactly was your method? i wanted to do the GSXR wheel swap but now i'm seeing i have to make my own brake rod. Which parts did you use? Your pics help, but the parts used would be nice.
Parts used (all Suzuki):
Rear wheel: GSXR1100 '92-'94
Rear sprocket: GSXR750, 40 teeth '92-'94. This one suits the chain.
Rear caliper, torque arm: GSX750F (Katana) '94
Caliper bracket: GSXR1100W, Part No 69721-46E00
Suzuki spacers: GSXR1100 '92-'94
One extra washer each side.
Tyre: Mich Pilot Road 2, 170 x 60
Hope this helps.
I know this is an old thread but in regards to the Katana caliper and TA - do you know what range of model years are the same? Also, someone mentioned that some of the calipers are slightly different, could someone post what I do and do not what prior to looking for one?
Also, does the Katana caliper and bracket need to be a 750 part or can a 600 or 1100 be used and if so what years?