Hello everyone,
Re 1989 FJ1200
I was out on a trip today and as i stopped at a light i noticed my tach was reading zero.. as I started driving
the tach was rising slightly but below normal. Over the next few blocks it started running worse and worse
and I pulled off to a side street as the bike died. After calling a bike towing outfit i was back home a few hours later.. I started reading that this could be caused by the 30 amp relay so I ordered one from RPM. He mentioned this was a universal relay and not a Yamaha one. I am still trying to find out if the small black relay behind the battery on the left side is this relay or if that could have caused all this. Or if a universal pin relay would plug into the connector with 4 wires on my bike.. So far reading through the manual I don't even know for sure where this 5 pin relay is located as the one behind the battery has 4 wires.. When I turn the key on I can hear some noise in that relay and the green neutral light is not working.
I have a recent new battery and all the fuses in the case behind the battery tested ok. Any tips on what may have caused these sudden problems today would be greatly appreciated!
.
Thanks!
A sudden interruption would indicate a short or ground fault or a failed relay.
Not the case from your description...you had a gradual loss of power.
A slow decline in power indicates a partial interruption from the electrical transfer typically from a loose connector or dirty switch.
Look for arching on your connectors.
Check the power circuit to the ignition box. From the fuse block it runs through the run/stop switch on the handle bar.
I speak from experience. I had a high RPM intermittent studder I traced to my run/stop switch.
I ran a temporary jumper from the + terminal of my battery to the 12v + wire directly into my ignition box....the studder went away... so the problem resided in the power feed to my ignition box...then I worked backwards to find where the interruption was occurring.......a dirty run/stop switch.
Avoid buying electrical parts until the culprit is found. Don't ask me how I know this... :dash2:
As always...While you're at it, check your Red plug connector: https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19557.0
Speaking of Red, stay tuned, we have a bloke on our forum called Red and he is an expert in electrical issues, so he may have have some good insight for you...
Electrical gremlins are frustrating to try to find, but typically easy to fix.
Cheers
Pat
gyrfalcon,
Nice words from Pat, but I am just an electronics tech, not really a bike tech. I do agree with Pat; grounding can be elusive or unreliable on any bike. You want shiny metal secured to shiny metal, at every electrical connection. Dull metal is corroded metal (so, a high resistance, a poor connection). Clean the connections to shiny-new with a small wire brush. Don't be shy about running a new dedicated ground wire connection (lug) on top of any grounding terminal.
Put gentle pressure on switches like the kill switch, and maybe the ignition key, to check their reliability. To get the bike running in the shop, install a temporary jumper wire across any normally-closed switches, and temporarily disconnect any normally-open switches.
I would suspect that a wire to your tach or engine has chafed, and now touches bare wire to the frame somewhere. Release the ties that secure such wiring to the frame, and check the insulation for wear. You can get brush-on insulation for wiring from the better auto-parts stores, or Amazon. Separate any suspected wiring, brush on the new insulation, let dry, and re-secure the wiring to the frame with Ty-Wraps that are not too close to the old locations.
Electrical problems typically can take days to locate, and minutes to fix.
Keep us posted.
Thanks for the tips...
I have a feeling I probably just ordered the first part I don't need...
What exactly is the function of that small black 3/4 inch square relay mounted behind the battery on the left side?
Is that where the 5 pin relay sold by RPM goes and will it plug right in to the 4 wire connector??
I feel I lost power to the tach first and it was followed by an intermittent power loss to the ignition and or fuel system during the next 6 or 7 minutes and then it died after that. I will test a few more electrical systems to see exactly what is now working and what is not.. So lucky that didn't happen on a major bridge or tunnel here in Vancouver.. :Facepalm:
There is a gray wire from your right coil and runs to your tach. This is where your tach gets the signal.
Also in this bundle are the signal wires from the ignition box that tell your 2 coils when to fire. Check these coil connections (at the coils). and as Red advises, check the ground wires to your coils. A loose ground connection at your coils can cause intermittent power interruption at the coils along with a signal disruption at your tach, exactly what describe.
Re: Relay: Without consulting the wiring diagram, I'm aware of a starter relay that sends full battery amperage to the starter motor. The activation coil in this relay is controlled by the starter button on the handlebar.
Before you jump to electrical, are you sure you have fuel?
If the fuel pump is dying there might not be enough fuel in the bowls for it to run properly.
As I mentioned in the email, the 5 prong relay is not a replacement for the 4 prong Yamaha relay behind the battery. It is a relay installed for high electrical consuption items like headlights & ignition coils.
Why are you suspecting that relay to be the issue? Noise from the relay can be an indication of low voltage.
What is the battery voltage?
If the battery or alternator are failing, low voltage might be the issue which also affects the fuel pump function.
Have to start with the basics: Battery condition & charging voltage.
If those are not the cause of the issue, then further diagnosis will be required.
Randy - RPM
Thanks for your help on the last 2 posts..
So I just made some basic tests.
The battery was recently replaced and was showing 13.02 on the trickle charger.
With the key on I have front marker lights and the headlight, I put the high beam on
and after a few tries I had good on and off high beam with the blue instrument light working.
I have the orange instrument lights.
I have
No horn
No signals
No clock
No rear lights
No rear markers or signals
No brake lights
No neutral light
I confirmed the rear wheel was spinning and tested the starter
It worked and the bike started up !!!!!
Revving the engine confirmed I still have No Tach
When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump priming.. maybe not quite as fast as before but not sure. It was not hard to start...
The black fuse box (6) beside the battery has a row of 4 fuses and then two more a bit lower as you move inboard on the bike.
With the key on and a test light on the NEG Bat I had power in the first 4 fuses and nothing in 2 lower fuses...
I had previously done continuity checks and all 6 fuses looked good.
Thanks for any thoughts or ideas.
With all of that not working, I would start at the ignition switch plug.
Check the photo in Mark Martins post from several years ago: https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14220.msg144336#msg144336
We have replacement plugs in stock: https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AIginitionPlugKit
Also, what is the battery voltage when not on the charger?