My initial post in the Introduction section, "Starting 2026 by restoring my '85 FJ1100", received great responses and suggestions, thank you Johnny, Bryan, Red and Pat! You saved me from tearing into the engine BEFORE taking careful and reasonable steps to determine what condition it is in and whether it needs it. Thank you!
I will also contact RPM for a carb overhaul. Meanwhile, I will begin working on the other needed restoration items, i.e. brakes, clutch, oil filter etc.
Since this is now an "FJ Project Writeup" I opened this topic in that section for future posts.
Steve
Great to see you restoring it!
Last year I got and restored a 1986 below is my write up which may be helpful. Happy to offer my 2 cents on anything specific you encounter. I would never have been able to restore my FJ if not for this group and the team at RPM.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21474.0
We like FJ restoration pictures! Before, during, after.
Steve,
The tiny screws in the carbs are also a PITA, because the heads are easy to strip. RPM has complete sets of Allen-headed screws for the carbs, much better. Make these Allen screws a part of your RPM rebuild job.
An occasional shot of Seafoam (follow the label instructions) just before you fill the tank will keep the carbs clean and shiny inside.
.
I love these restoration posts...along with the FJ modification posts...
Best part of the forum.
Here is the FJ1100 tucked away in the garage without the tank and carbs. The carbs are being packaged for shipping to RPM. I have been restoring a 1968 Honda CL350, which is currently spread out over the rest of the garage and is the reason the FJ has been shunted to the side. The CL350 project is nearly finished, which will free up space for the FJ.
FJ1100.jpgFJ1100.jpg
Randy at RPM and I have been in contact and I will be forwarding the carbs to him later this week. He confirmed that his rebuild includes the addition of Allen head screws. Before the carb rebuild begins I will have to let him know whether the fuel system will be converted to a fuel pump and filter, which I am inclined to do. Is there any downside to making that change?
The "to do" list is pretty daunting at this point and is still being compiled, but at least the restoration is getting off the ground!
Steve
I converted my 86 to have a fuel pump. I made a post and there are two PDF documents you can download that I put together. I was unable to upload it in one document since it was too large so broke it down into two.
Fuel Pump Conversion:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21402.0
I'm happy with the conversion and have not had any issues after nearly 2,000 miles.
In addition to running the normal fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump I also suggest running the Golan fuel filter between the pump and carbs to help protect your newly cleaned carbs from any contaminants.
Golan Fuel Filter:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21424.msg216700#msg216700
https://golanproducts.com/product/super-mini-fuel-filter-1-4-barb-fitting/
I just tried to upload part 1 and part 2 of the fuel pump conversion let's see if this works.
Quote from: 86FJNJ on January 06, 2026, 07:59:54 AMIn addition to running the normal fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump I also suggest running the Golan fuel filter between the pump and carbs to help protect your newly cleaned carbs from any contaminants.
Golan Fuel Filter:
https://golanproducts.com/product/super-mini-fuel-filter-1-4-barb-fitting/
Steve,
You might want a clear fuel filter, so you can see fuel flowing and any collected dirt. These have 1/4" and 5/16" hose barbs.
in-line fuel filter 1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R94CM9W)
in-line fuel filter 2 (https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Fuel-Filter-Engines-Glass-liner-Resistant/dp/B0FCQXRZ6N)
.
Thank you 86FJNJ for the fuel pump conversion downloads. Both came through and are very helpful, along with Red's fuel filter suggestion and information.
In addition to the converting from gravity flow to a fuel pump, the airbox will be removed and replaced by UNI style filters.
Steve
Just let Randy know you're switching to uni-pods and he can make the necessary adjustments to your carb when you send it to him for the rebuild. Typically a shim needs to be added enrich the fuel a bit to address the added air flow from the uni filters.
I like the golan fuel filter because it has 10 micron filtering which was the best I could find. But I still also run the normal yamaha pre-filter which I think is 40 micron to catch the bigger stuff before fuel hits the golan filter after the pump.
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 06, 2026, 02:18:44 PMThank you 86FJNJ for the fuel pump conversion downloads. Both came through and are very helpful, along with Red's fuel filter suggestion and information.
Eric...See how helpful that turned out? Good on ya...that's what makes this forum work.
Steve, FYI the float needle seats are what's different between the gravity flow carbs and the fuel pump carbs.
They have a smaller opening on the fuel pump carbs (vs. gravity flow) due to the higher line pressure.
The gravity flow carbs have float needle seats that have a larger opening, lower line pressure.
If you try and use the gravity flow needle seats on a fuel pump application, the high line pressure from the fuel pump will push the gravity flow needle away from the seat and flooding will occur.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0
Pat, largely thanks to all your help, you're FJ Yoda!
The carbs are packed up to ship to RPM tomorrow, which is also when I am expecting the new Pirelli Sport Demons to arrive. They will replace the original Dunlop (rear) and Bridgestone (front) tires.
Still in the early restoration and acquisition stage.
Not sure how confident you are in your wheel bearings (if they are original) but if you are pulling the wheels off to replace tires changing the bearings out is not that difficult and bearings are not much money IMO for the confidence to know the bearings are good and new. You just need a bearing puller set. The bearings in my FJ were original they seemed ok but being 40 years old I replaced them anyway.
I also imagine you are updating sprockets and chain to new, if so you may want to consider changing gearing. I went from stock 17/41 to 18/40 and like it a lot better, I don't notice any power loss on the bottom end and each gear is a bit longer making for a more enjoyable ride, also bringing my RPM's down a little at highway speeds.
Eric, I will be replacing the wheel bearings and the chain as you suggested. Any gearing changes will likely be future modifications, but you make it sound very appealing. At this point I am primarily focused on getting the bike back into a mechanically sound condition and back on the road.
I do have another concern, however. This may be sacrilege to some (most?) FJ riders, but I am at an age that no longer tolerates riding in a forward bent position and I am hoping to find a modification that will result in a more upright riding position. Do you know if there are others on the list who have, or are looking to modify their FJ's to accommodate aging backs? If so, what modifications have they have made? I see that RPM offers a handle bar riser. Do you know what the experience has been with that riser?
Quote from: 86FJNJ on January 08, 2026, 07:36:20 AMNot sure how confident you are in your wheel bearings (if they are original) but if you are pulling the wheels off to replace tires changing the bearings out is not that difficult and bearings are not much money IMO for the confidence to know the bearings are good and new. You just need a bearing puller set. The bearings in my FJ were original they seemed ok but being 40 years old I replaced them anyway.
I also imagine you are updating sprockets and chain to new, if so you may want to consider changing gearing. I went from stock 17/41 to 18/40 and like it a lot better, I don't notice any power loss on the bottom end and each gear is a bit longer making for a more enjoyable ride, also bringing my RPM's down a little at highway speeds.
Agree totally on the wheel bearings - don't do a restoration on a near 40 year old bike without changing them. :good2:
My FJ originally had 17/40 sprockets. I went to 18/40 at my first chain change to make the bike feel a little less "busy" at highway speeds, then went to 18/38 at my second chain change. The difference from stock is great, making the bike feel much more relaxed at 70+ mph and pretty much eliminating the elusive search for 6th gear that plagued the stock FJ 1200.
Since changing to 18/38, I've not felt the need to make any further changes and most of the FJ riding friends I have, have also settled on the 18/38 sprocket combination as ideal for all round use.
For what it's worth I purchased new 17/41 sprockets and after a few hundred miles grew tired of needing to switch gears so much, I'm happy with 18/40 and honestly wish I did that from the start.
As for risers I think some others may be able to chime in I'm still using stock bars
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 09, 2026, 03:06:55 PMI am hoping to find a modification that will result in a more upright riding position. Do you know if there are others on the list who have, or are looking to modify their FJ's to accommodate aging backs? If so, what modifications have they have made? I see that RPM offers a handle bar riser. Do you know what the experience has been with that riser?
A company called LSL made handlebar conversion kits for our FJ's, alas, no longer available.
Unless you find an LSL kit on FleaBay the only current option I'm aware are the RPM FJ spacers, unless you want to swap out your entire front end... (note: USD forks gets the chicks)
Paging Dan McCoy or Aviation Fred, you guys know about those clip ons you have on your GSXR fork tubes...do they make them in the small 41mm size to clamp on the FJ stanchion tubes?
If so, that may be an option.
I've had the RPM spacers on several bikes and they do help but the options in adjustments of handlebars are hard to beat.
Currently I have FZ-1 bars on my YZF750 fork to FJ conversion and they're great.
I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam and what really helps me are a slightly taller seat (1/2") and lower foot pegs, resulting in less of a bend at the knee. The Buell pegs I installed are 1.5" lower than the stock pegs. That may not sound like much, but I can tell you on long days, it makes a world of difference.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/8/49_15_03_15_1_50_01.jpeg)
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/8/49_15_03_15_1_45_52.jpeg)
STLanduyt,
There are several ways to adapt common 22mm (7/8") handlebars to the FJ. Angle plates and riser blocks are an expensive approach, and
very limited in the result possibilities.
ABM makes a billet steering crown (top fork clamp) for using regular handlebars. You can spend much more, or much less, on this approach. Try eBay at your own risk; they may have some good stuff, or not. They DO have scammers.
Ordinary (aftermarket) handlebars provide a wide selection of sweep, wingspan, height, angle, positioning, and tilt with the new bars. All of your clamps and switches will bolt on to the 22mm handlebars. With new handlebars, you
may need to re-route some cables and hoses, and maybe add extensions if needed.
Lower footpegs may or may not help. If you have foot/ankle damage, a heel-and-toe shifter lever can be a game changer. I had one on my old Ducati, and a couple on the dirt bikes. They take a little time to become familiar and comfortable, but now I would prefer that option on any bike. I saw a DIY bolt-on mod for the FJR1300, with no drilling on the bike, to create a heel-toe shifter. You may also find a usable heel-tow shifter made OEM for another bike. Obviously, you won't damage your shoe-leather with a heel-toe shifter.
With a more upright body position, a touring windscreen may be in order.
Your call.
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 09, 2026, 03:06:55 PMI do have another concern, however. This may be sacrilege to some (most?) FJ riders, but I am at an age that no longer tolerates riding in a forward bent position and I am hoping to find a modification that will result in a more upright riding position. Do you know if there are others on the list who have, or are looking to modify their FJ's to accommodate aging backs? If so, what modifications have they have made? I see that RPM offers a handle bar riser. Do you know what the experience has been with that riser?
The is company offers a service to make a custom stem to mount any forks to any motorcycle. I have a 1978 CB750 and this is a popular mod to fit a modern 2000's sportbike front end onto the old Hondas and other bikes from that era.
I'm considering seeing if they could make a stem to fit a modern R1 front end onto my FJ1200 but won't cross that bridge until I finish my CB.
In switching your stock FJ front end to a modern sportbike front end like R1 that should open some more options for you to install risers of your hight preference and superbike handlebars which would make the riding position better. But it's a costly conversion. $400 for the custom stem plus whatever you spend on used forks from eBay plus the risers and bars etc.
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/custom/products/custom-stem-for-any-application
Thanks Red!
I've added ABM to my vendors list for FJ handlebar conversion kits. German TUV certification is a definite plus.
I would worry about Chinese quality.
https://ab-m.de/en/motorcycle-accessories-shop-details/110/superbike-handlebar-conversion-kits/20/kit-superbike
The ABM kit comes with a longer single brake line for use with the oem line splitter...however if you have double brake lines you'll have to call Robert at RPM and have him make you a longer double brake lines along with a clutch line.
Cheers
Pat
I just used the fj stem in the 2008 gsxr1000 triples. You'll have to build up the bottom of the stem. Was done by running some welding beads around the base. Then machined down to the gsxr stem diameter. And pressing it into the gsxr triples. Could be done with any brand front end. I suppose.
You have offered a lot of alternatives. Thanks!
I am only at the initial stages of learning what needs to be refreshed, renewed or replaced, and whether the engine will turn over or needs further work. So a lot of discovery remains.
Today was spent dismantling the front brake and clutch reservoirs. Both exteriors are pretty weathered and have lost the white painted lettering on their covers. My plan is to clean up and repaint the exteriors of the reservoirs and use kits to rebuild the innards, and also replacing the hydraulic lines.
The Buell pegs look great and I will replace the Yamaha pegs with them to gain that bit of additional leg space. That assumes, of course, that those Buell pegs are still available, which has been a problem with sourcing steering modifications. Randy at RPM has steering risers, which may help. Also, I will be trying the ABM Superbike Handlebar Conversion Kit for the Yamaha FJ1100 1984~86, which I purchased from Bikermart in the UK.
Steve
FJowners,
Just a quick note to add that Europe and the UK have lots of FJs on the roads over there, and they still have many good sources for FJ parts. They also have independent 3D printed plastics (or the .STL files for making them). You may want to join a few FJ forums across the pond, for better access to the non-USA FJ parts. Beware of any shipping and tariff charges, of course.
:good2:
If anyone wants to buy parts this side of the pond and get them shipped to me, I could send them on to you to avoid the import hassle.
Quote from: Millietant on January 11, 2026, 07:52:54 AMIf anyone wants to buy parts this side of the pond and get them shipped to me, I could send them on to you to avoid the import hassle.
A very kind offer Dean...You're the best!
Dean, on the internet I have been looking for FJ engine guards and ran across,
https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/product-page/fj1100-1200-engine-bars
are you familiar with this group? I have been inclined to join, which is required to purchase the engine bars and other items that they sell.
Steve
Steve,
Just wanted to add, when the time comes to actually buy handlebars, most right-side-up bike shops will let you take new handlebars out to your bike. Make a (NO TOOLS) test fit on the parking lot, one bar at a time. Good chance they will have the right stuff to fit you, after a few tries.
Just for future reference . . . :bye2:
As I was cleaning the left swing arm of the FJ1100 today, I noticed that large pieces of rubber were falling on the ground near the engine side of the chain. My chain seal guard is falling to pieces. New seal guards are not available AFAIK. There was a General Discussion topic in 2017 titled "Seal, guard, chain slider.... 1984-1987" that contains a photo of the seal, guard.
A seal guard is still available for the FJ1200, but it has a different attachment than is used on the FJ1100.
What solution have FJ1100 riders found?
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 13, 2026, 08:53:07 PMWhat solution have FJ1100 riders found?
Monkey, do you recall the name of of the company that made them in urethane?
Randy - RPM
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 13, 2026, 08:53:07 PMAs I was cleaning the left swing arm of the FJ1100 today, I noticed that large pieces of rubber were falling on the ground near the engine side of the chain. My chain seal guard is falling to pieces. New seal guards are not available AFAIK. There was a General Discussion topic in 2017 titled "Seal, guard, chain slider.... 1984-1987" that contains a photo of the seal, guard.
A seal guard is still available for the FJ1200, but it has a different attachment than is used on the FJ1100.
What solution have FJ1100 riders found?
I've gotten many things from ebay, you just have to be good with searching, you can also search craigslist or FB Marketplace for "FJ1100" and see what comes up, there are often some people parting bikes out across the usa, you may be able to have them mail you parts. You could def find a full swingarm for the 1100 on ebay with the rubber piece, just would have to spend more $ but that comes with the territory of keeping a vintage bike running.
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 13, 2026, 09:42:00 PMQuote from: STLanduyt on January 13, 2026, 08:53:07 PMWhat solution have FJ1100 riders found?
Monkey, do you recall the name of of the company that made them in urethane?
Randy - RPM
Read it all here: https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16984.msg179571#msg179571
Quote from: racerrad8 on January 13, 2026, 09:42:00 PMQuote from: STLanduyt on January 13, 2026, 08:53:07 PMWhat solution have FJ1100 riders found?
Monkey, do you recall the name of of the company that made them in urethane?
Randy - RPM
Hot Foot Moto: https://www.ebay.com/itm/113297378736
I bought the seal guard from Hot Foot Moto.
Thanks Pat, Randy, 86FJNJ, and FJmonkey!
Steve
The FJ is still being cleaned after sitting idle for too many years. The carbs are with Randy at RPM, meanwhile I am in the process of disassembling, cleaning, restoring and/or rebuilding, and lubricating the various components, which brings me to the major reason for this post ... what is the best way to remove the rear shock and disassemble the swing arm to clean and re-lube them?
I have the Yamaha Service Manual, which has been my guide, but I thought it best to ask the group before I plunge ahead. I am working in my garage, with the FJ on its center stand. Unfortunately I do not have a motorcycle mechanic's lift. While this is not an ideal set up, is it a sufficient work space for this project?
BTW, the first successful repair I made was to the helmet/seat lock. The helmet lock no longer locked. Turns out the locking mechanism was missing its spring, which I replaced with a spring from an old ball point. Works like a charm!
Steve
1) Remove lower cowl, seat and side panels (tank optional)
2) Remove rear tire assembly and caliper. Don't disconnect brake line, just tie caliper up out of the way.
3) Disconnect swing arm linkage
4) Loosen, push through and remove swing arm pivot thru bolt. Don't worry, the swing arm will not fall out.
5) Remove swing arm. Note: the swing arm will not pull straight back, you have to lift up the arm at the front pivot shaft before you pull out. I do this by twisting the legs of the swing arm to get each side of the pivot shaft to lift up. Once the shaft is lifted up you should be able pull the arm back and out.
6) Remove the shock adjuster chain and top thru bolt on the shock. The shock will drop down. Be careful, try and not let the shock drop to the floor.
Cheers. Pat
If the chin fairing and exhaust are off you can put 4"x4" wood blocks under the frame rails. It was sturdy but I added straps to my ceiling joists as an extra safety.
I also recently got this scissor lift and it works great. Just make sure it's on the frame rails and not the engine oil pan or drain plug. It works on my FJ and my Honda.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B3X85X4Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Not safe long term but I briefly hoisted my bike with straps on a ladder to lift the front end enough for a quick front end change.
Pat and Eric,
Thanks for the guidance! You gave me confidence that I was on the right track and directions on how to proceed. Eric's garage set up is similar to mine (excluding the Countach poster) and I will use a couple of his ideas to elevate the FJ.
My best to you both, Steve
BTW I hope someone benefits from my tip on using the ballpoint pen spring in the helmet hanger lock! LOL
I did use the center stand on the FJ when it was on the wood blocks it helped keep it stable. If your front wheel is still touching ground or if not you can put blocks over that too for stability.
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 19, 2026, 07:06:36 PMBTW I hope someone benefits from my tip on using the ballpoint pen spring in the helmet hanger lock! LOL
Thanks Steve, I'll remember your tip....ballpoint pen spring for the helmet U lock. Gotcha!
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 11, 2026, 02:54:40 PMDean, on the internet I have been looking for FJ engine guards and ran across,
https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/product-page/fj1100-1200-engine-bars
are you familiar with this group? I have been inclined to join, which is required to purchase the engine bars and other items that they sell.
Steve
Hi Steve, yes I'm familiar, having been a member for well over 30 years and a good friend of the founder, Phil "Doc" Hacker.
I know the FJOC don't ship overseas, but I'm sure I could help you get a set from them.
I also know of some spare Renntec engine bars that are going to be re powder-coated in the next couple of months.
Just let me know how you want to proceed and I can help get things to you (I could but then and ship them to you, if that was needed).
Dean,
Thank you for your update, and offer to assist in acquiring the engine guards.
If the model year makes a difference in the fit of the engine bars, I have a 1985 FJ1100. The re-powder coated Renntec engine bars might be perfect. We'll know when they become available. Are the FJOC engine bars comparable in build and quality? Let's wait to see how the re-powdered Renntec's look.
Insofar as shipping goes, I recently purchased motorcycle parts from BikerMart in the UK and they used UPS and Parcel2Go for shipping. The shipment went very smoothly.
I appreciate your help!
Steve
Randy at RPM used to sell those engine bars that's where I bought mine from for my 3xw. He had them for all models at the time.
Unfortunately Renntec sold several years back. When they did they jacked the dealer pricing up. That plus the several hundred dollars to get them from the UK to the US made it not feasible for us to continue to carry them when people could buy them direct for cheaper.
That said I don't think they make them for the FJ anymore. The part numbers were 10019 and 10021 for the two models they made.
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 22, 2026, 12:44:40 PMDean,
Thank you for your update, and offer to assist in acquiring the engine guards.
If the model year makes a difference in the fit of the engine bars, I have a 1985 FJ1100. The re-powder coated Renntec engine bars might be perfect. We'll know when they become available. Are the FJOC engine bars comparable in build and quality? Let's wait to see how the re-powdered Renntec's look.
Insofar as shipping goes, I recently purchased motorcycle parts from BikerMart in the UK and they used UPS and Parcel2Go for shipping. The shipment went very smoothly.
I appreciate your help!
Steve
Hi Steve, the engine bars that the FJOC sell are Renntec, so are brilliant :good2:
I'll see my pal Chris over the weekend and see if we can get a slot to do some powder coating any time soon.
Over the past week I have been attempting to remove (for the first time) the upper fairing on my 1985 FJ1100. I read all the fairing removal posts and owe a huge debt of gratitude to oldktmdude
and FJ1100mjk for their posts.
oldktmdude in 2013 wrote, "with all due respect to the others that have commented on fairing removal, disregard everything they have said. They are talking about removing a fairing from later model bikes, not an '84 or '85 which are totally different."
FJ1100mjk in his 2015 post gave a step-by-step tutorial on removal of the fairing on an 84/85 FJ. Step 7b details how to detach the fairing from two small "pins" located on both sides of the frame adjacent to the oil cooler. That was exactly where I had been hung up, but I couldn't see the pins and the 1984 Yamaha Shop Manual I am using doesn't show or even mention them. Once I read FJ1100mjk's post and successfully completed step 7b, VOILA! ... removal of the fairing was straight forward.
Thank you.
This is an effort to post a few photos of the current state of my FJ project. (If the photos do not appear, I am sorry but I tried.)
The removal of the upper fairing has revealed years of road dirt and small areas of rusty on the main frame and subframe. The fairing itself is in great shape, but very dusty on the inside
The immediate plan is to clean the entire frame, respray the front and rear subframes black and respray the main frame silver after the wiring has been removed and the rusty spots are de-rusted. Hopefully it is only surface rust. The rear frame also has a bit of rust ... mainly around the welds, so those will need de-rusting and respraying.
The available work area in the garage is small.
"C:\Users\stlan\OneDrive\Desktop\recent photos\front.jpg"
"C:\Users\stlan\OneDrive\Desktop\recent photos\front subframe.jpg"
"C:\Users\stlan\OneDrive\Desktop\recent photos\overhead.jpg"
"C:\Users\stlan\OneDrive\Desktop\recent photos\side.jpg"
front.jpgside.jpg
Not great photos, but hopefully you can see the current state of my 1985 FJ1100. It has been garaged and car-ported in San Diego since leaving the Yamaha dealer here, but is in need of restoration, nevertheless, as you can see.
It is gradually being disassembled, cleaned up, de-rusted, spot painted, updated with a fuel pump, RPM refurbished carbs, new tires, new clutch/brake hoses, chain, etc., etc.
The fairing is in great shape ... just needs cleaning. The engine only has about 5,000 miles on it (I only rode it on weekends), which may be unusually low. It currently awaits the carbs and a new battery, and the rest of the restoration before being restarted. I appreciate the advice that I have received (and hopefully will continue to receive) from members about the care that should be taken before restarting the engine, as well as other suggestions to make the FJ "friendly" to a now "older" rider.
front subframe.jpgoverhead.jpg
My 1200 sat 15 years, before starting I changed the oil, i took the valve cover off and put assembly lube on the cams and cam chain and put the valve cover back on. Be careful not to over tighten the valve cover bolts, just tighten them until they stop, no more, very light pressure or you'll strip them out, I removed spark plugs and sprayed oil in the spark plug hole and let it sit for a few days, then turned the engine over without the spark plugs installed so the oil was pushed out ( put a towel on top of the engine because the oil will shoot out). Then I put spark plugs back in and started it.
Thanks 86FJNJ for the pre-start list of essential things to do before cranking the engine after a prolonged hiatus i.e., decades not merely years. I won't be ready to give the engine a try for awhile since the carbs are off, so is the tank, and I don't have a battery yet. In the meantime, and now that the front fairing has been removed, I am cleaning up the front end, will remove the forks, take care of the rust, and repaint areas that need it, which is primarily the front frame (the silver/gray frame).
What available spray paint (rattle can) has been found the best match for the early FJ's?
Steve
VHT Ford Argent Silver
https://www.jbtools.com/duplicolor-sp188-vht-ford-argent-silver-wheel-paint-can-11-oz/
Thank you Pat. The local auto paint store had VHT Ford Argent Silver in stock.
At this point painting the frame is a few days away, as the rubber hoses and wires in the front are still being removed or pulled out of harm's way.
Are there any special techniques or things to watch out for in dealing with the oil cooler?
Steve
Drain your oil.
Remove the oil cooler lines via the 2 fittings on the oil pan. Leave the lines connected to the oil cooler and to the pan fittings. After you remove the (2) allen screws at each pan fitting, the fitting pulls straight out, towards the front.
You will see an O ring on each fitting where it seals to the pan....plan on replacing each o ring.
If you can't find these o rings locally, Call Robert at RPM, he will take care of you.
Cheers
The FJ1100 project is well underway.
Using a combination of a small "block and tackle" type pully system and load bearing Husky brand straps, the FJ is suspended off the ground in the garage so that the wheels can be removed and re-tired. Also while it is in "suspended animation" the front fork will be removed and refreshed; the front sub-frame, which has been stripped to bare metal and de-rusted, will be repainted, as will the front end of the main (silver) frame; and, the rest of the silver frame and the rear black frame will be spot de-rusted and painted.
There is a bit of wiring that needs to be replaced, and I will add the plastic wire "sleeves" to cover the wires (mainly to the rear blinkers) that don't have them.
In short, there are still a ton of things to do to get the FJ ready to receive the rebuilt carbs from RPM, install the fuel pump, and follow all of the good advice I have received before starting the long-dormant engine.
Quote from: STLanduyt on February 01, 2026, 02:43:58 PMThe FJ1100 project is well underway.
There is a bit of wiring that needs to be replaced, and I will add the plastic wire "sleeves" to cover the wires (mainly to the rear blinkers) that don't have them.
Steve,
Not sure what you are calling "sleeves," but this is cable split-wrap, available at auto parts stores (and even WalMart). You can install it easily on existing wire bundles, without disconnecting any wires. I would secure it, compressed to fit the wiring, with tiny TyWraps along the way.
Split Cable Sheathing (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Braided-Split-Wire-Loom-Wrap-Cable-Sleeve-Tube-Harness-Lot-Sheathing-Management/896503199?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=13589)
HTH.
Thanks Red ... we are referring to the same item ... a protective covering for wires. Yamaha has a lot of wire protection, particularly around the engine, but in the back some of the wires that run under the seat have no protection beyond their colored plastic covering and are showing some wear spots.
Steve
Steve,
The auto parts stores should have Liquid Insulation for wires in cans or bottles. You may be able to find various colors. Color aside, just separate the wires in the bundle, paint on the new insulation as needed, and let dry. That plus the sheathing should protect the wires very well.
The FJ1100 is now suspended in the garage like a mechanical marionette.
FJ Feb 4 2026.jpg
The wheels are off and waiting for new tires.
I removed the front forks, cleaned the outsides, and will later disassemble, clean, and re-new them. If you have any suggestions of how to go about front forks, please let me hear from you.
The same request for the steering head, which I just started to disassemble.
For general road dirt and grime, what cleaners and detergents seem to work best? I am using mineral spirits (paint thinner) to clean off the old grease
Most of the rust is on the front of the frame, and I am clearing that area so that I can remove the rust and respray it with the same silver (thank you Pat).
I apologize for the condition of my garage. Most of the garages shown on this site are cycle palaces in comparison, but I wanted to show that progress is being made and I appreciate all the advice that has been given.
Steve
I've been using a 5 gallon bucket filled with hot water and lots of dawn dish soap and a sponge to get crud and gunk off, it works well. Then I've used the engine degreasers from the auto parts store, those do a good job too.
Or if you have a trailer take it to one of those self service car wash places and spray it down.
Steve,
Once you get the rust mostly removed, as best you can, there is now a whole new "paint" product on the market. It is called a "Rust Converter." It looks and acts like spray-can paint, but it is far better than paint. Rust can creep under regular paint, but not this stuff. It is an epoxy-like product that uses rust as the activating "hardener" agent for the chemical coating in the can. You can get aerosol rattle cans of Rust Converters in various colors. It can work as a paintable stand-alone primer, or it can serve as the color coat, if you wish.
Just a thought . . .
Great suggestion Red!
For one step process I'll see if there is a silver color close to the FJ's silver, if not then use it as a primer and top coat with Argent Silver.
I'm ready for a respray on my '84 frame.
Here's how the "UV resistant"urethane clear coat yellowed over 50k miles in 12 years. I'm not happy.
I park in my garage but nevertheless, the desert sun is unforgiving.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49-181125154237.jpeg)
No more "UV resistant" clear coats for me.
I used JB Weld epoxy putty to clean up the ugly bracket weld, normally hidden under the side reflector.
No Bondo in that area, won't last.
I have a question about converting my 1985 FJ1100 from gravity flow to a fuel pump. I am confused.
The carbs were sent to RPM to be converted and I ordered the fuel pump sold by RPM
Today Randy at RPM called to discuss work on my carbs, and the topics of what fuel pump is appropriate and what diameter fuel line to use came up. I understood from Randy that the RPM fuel pump is NOT suitable for the conversion and that a fuel pump with a larger diameter opening should be acquired as should larger diameter fuel line. (I cancelled the pump sold by RPM as a result).
The two-part article on the fuel pump conversion specifically references using the RPM fuel pump and fuel line, which leads to my confusion.
Can anyone help unconfuse me here? Pat Conlon, Randy mentioned that you use a different pump than RPM's that has a larger diameter output. Perhaps I missing something here, but I thought the fuel pump used a smaller diameter output than the gravity flow did.
Sorry to visit my confusion on y'all,
Steve
I am using the RPM fuel pump on my 1986 that I converted from gravity fed to fuel pump. It works fine I have like 2,000 miles on it with no issues.
I can take pics tomorrow if that helps
You can use a 3/8 to 5/16 brass reducer to accomplish the reduction needed to go from 10mm to 5mm. Or you can get a pump off eBay that has 10mm inlet/outlets. Get a couple of them as they go out.
The Yamaha Mitsubishi pump that we sell is made for the single inlet tee on the fuel pump carbs at 5/6mm I don't have one handy to measure but it is roughly half the size of the dual 10mm inlets on the gravity feed carbs.
You can use the Mitsubishi pump with reducers or you can get a couple cheaper pumps with 10mm nipples.
Either will accomplish the same thing but the reducers will get you a superior pump Yamaha fuel pump.
Appreciate the information 86FJNJ and Robert, thank you!
Use the reducer line fitting you can buy an any hardware store.
Do not buy eBay cheap fuel pumps.
The oem Yamaha pump and filter works fine with the reducer fitting.
:good:
Well I checked my FJ today and I have the same RPM fuel line from tank fuel valve to stock fuel filter to fuel pump to golan 10 micron filter to my carbs. No reducer anywhere. My tank is a 1990 tank so not sure if that makes a difference? I do remember having some difficulty putting the fuel line on in one area, possibly the first fuel filter? but I think I just put some grease on the nipple and used some muscle to get it on.
I agree with Pat spend the money on the fuel filter from RPM so you don't have to worry about it and just enjoy your ride. If you buy a cheap one you'll be regretting "saving" that $150 when you're stuck 50 miles from home late in the afternoon.
:good:
The 90 tank is for a fuel pump bike, the earlier models have a different petcock with a larger 10mm outlet.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on February 09, 2026, 11:24:16 AMThe 90 tank is for a fuel pump bike, the earlier models have a different petcock with a larger 10mm outlet.
Ok that makes sense. So then he's got a trip to the plumbing isle to make his own reducer.
Got it ... thanks!
The carbs are with RPM, as already mentioned, and are currently soaking to dissolve "the ethanol gunk in the bowls and carb bodies" per RPM ... meanwhile I removed the exhaust pipes and de-rusted them using Rustoleum Rust Dissolver, which took off the rust and revealed a very shiny dark grey surface on the pipes, albeit with very tiny "pinpoints" of silver all over.
I had initially thought of painting the pipes, but am now thinking of leaving them in their current state. Any thoughts or experiences out there on just leaving the pipes alone?
Steve
Quote from: STLanduyt on February 11, 2026, 07:44:30 PMI had initially thought of painting the pipes, but am now thinking of leaving them in their current state. Any thoughts or experiences out there on just leaving the pipes alone?
Steve
Some of the guys have polished their pipes. They are stainless underneath.
This is Noel's picture:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7486/15637542064_2b86b54c14_o.jpg)
The bare stainless pipes are beautiful! That may be something I will consider in the future, but in the present I am inclined to leave them in their original color.
Another question that I have is how to improve the appearance of the weathered engine.
The picture below shows a side view of the current exterior condition of the engine, which sat in a carport for many years and suffered serious weathering, as you can see. The only surviving original gloss black paint on the engine is on the valve cover, which was protected by the tank. The cooling fins are now bare metal.
What are the options for improving the appearance of the engine while it is on the bike beyond doing a thorough cleaning?
side.jpg
Steve
Most of that looks topical like it would clean off with a sponge and some hot water with dawn dish soap. Then let it dry and spray it down with some foamy engine degreaser. Should look decently good after that. I'd suggest upgrading your oil filter to the RPM spin on oil filter setup. Better look and easier oil changes compared to that rusted stock oil filter bolt you have.
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=spinonfilteradapter&cat=39
The sprocket cover can be sanded down to raw aluminum and then painted with VHT Gloss black engine paint and cured in front of a space heater...will look brand new after that, which is what I did to mine.
Quote from: STLanduyt on February 11, 2026, 07:44:30 PMI had initially thought of painting the pipes, but am now thinking of leaving them in their current state. Any thoughts or experiences out there on just leaving the pipes alone?
Steve
Jet-Hot is a company I used to coat my header and I have been astounded by the product.
Their 2K product has a black crinkle finish on the outside, not sure it is not lifetime guaranteed, but it is tough. It does not damage by road debris and it clean up easily.
The inside was coated in a ceramic heat whatever substance, see pic #2.
The pipe is cool to the touch within moments of stopping, it works that well.
That heat has to go somewhere, I am not sure of the positives or negatives, I'll leave that to the experts here.
Bike runs great, pipe looks great, I'm happy, it was about $250 with shipping back in 2019 and worth every penny.
Look at pic #1, that's a lot of miles and several years ago.
Options are good.
https://www.jet-hot.com/offroad
The Yamaha ignition cover and the other side crank cover we have new stock, as well as the clutch cover outer ring and the center part that says Yamaha.
The edges of the fins on the block and head were always raw aluminum. You can tape the frame off and get in there with some small scotch brite wheels in between the fins and scotch bright whatever you want to paint after a good ole pressure washing to get the big gunk off. After you spray it you can take a sanded block and clean up the edges of the fins to be raw aluminum like they should. Working up to a super fine sand paper so it doesn't look all gouged up.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on February 13, 2026, 11:33:03 AMThe Yamaha ignition cover and the other side crank cover we have new stock, as well as the clutch cover outer ring and the center part that says Yamaha.
The edges of the fins on the block and head were always raw aluminum. You can tape the frame off and get in there with some small scotch brite wheels in between the fins and scotch bright whatever you want to paint after a good ole pressure washing to get the big gunk off. After you spray it you can take a sanded block and clean up the edges of the fins to be raw aluminum like they should. Working up to a super fine sand paper so it doesn't look all gouged up.
Great tips from Robert - I always think that bikes with re-painted engines, without the fin edges cleaned of paint, look bodged/half finished, like the owner couldn't be bothered to do the job properly.
That's just a quirk of my character and some people prefer not to have the unpainted edges (less likely to corrode early), but I'm not one of them :sarcastic:
Over here in the UK, Simoniz Gloss Black Engine Lacquer comes highly recommended from owners.
I am in the middle of de-rusting and repainting the silver portion (front) of the frame on my 1985 FJ-1100 and I am planning the next phase of the project, which is cleaning and repainting the engine. From the earlier posted photos you can see that the only solid black areas that have survived on the engine are the valve cover, the area beneath the fins, and the area around the gearbox, and those are very weathered.
While I appreciate the visual aesthetics of black painted fins and bare aluminum edges, does painting the fins adversely affect air cooling on the early FJ's? I am inclined to do whatever is best for the longevity of the engine.
What are the alternatives to re-painting the fins black?
Can the exterior engine be successfully restored while it is in the frame, or is it necessary/best to remove the engine before repainting it? The bike has been largely disassembled, but I have not removed the engine up to now.
Thanks for sharing your experiences and suggestions!
Steve
Painting the fins won't impact engine temps. As long as youre riding you'll have plenty of air going over the engine to cool it.
If you want to give your FJ some extra cooling RPM sells a larger oil cooler kit. I installed it on my FJ because my original oil lines to my cooler were very corroded but I also wanted to have a bit more cooling because I ride a lot in summer and the FJ does get very hot.
While you have the tank off I suggest ensuring you have some proper heat shield stuck to the underside of your tank to keep some of that engine heat off the base of the tank. It gets real hot under there.
Currently the FJ1100 is a suspended frame and engine in the garage awaiting paint. So I am at a decision point... paint the engine in place in the frame, or disassemble the upper half of the engine so the fins can be painted out of the frame, or remove the engine entirely from the frame for paint?
I am inclined to disassemble and paint the fins out of the frame, but thought that first asking for the pros/cons of experience was in order.
Steve
Why open the engine up? That's a lot of work.
Why remove the cams, head and cylinder block just to paint the outside cylinder block?
For a needed cylinder hone and new rings or valve work, sure.....but not for just paint.
Remove the engine or I would just remove the lower frame cradle and paint the engine in the frame.
I agree with pat, engine disassembly opens a can of worms. When bike is assembled with fairings you really only see the sides of the fins, I'd tape it off and spray it in the frame if you plan to ride it this season. You can always pull the engine next winter if you want.
Great advice. Thanks for keeping me on track, Pat and 86FJNJ!
This morning Robert at RPM called saying that work on the carbs is completed and they will be shipped later this week along with the additional items that were ordered.
It looks like it's time to transition into the completion phase of this project.
Steve