My initial post in the Introduction section, "Starting 2026 by restoring my '85 FJ1100", received great responses and suggestions, thank you Johnny, Bryan, Red and Pat! You saved me from tearing into the engine BEFORE taking careful and reasonable steps to determine what condition it is in and whether it needs it. Thank you!
I will also contact RPM for a carb overhaul. Meanwhile, I will begin working on the other needed restoration items, i.e. brakes, clutch, oil filter etc.
Since this is now an "FJ Project Writeup" I opened this topic in that section for future posts.
Steve
Great to see you restoring it!
Last year I got and restored a 1986 below is my write up which may be helpful. Happy to offer my 2 cents on anything specific you encounter. I would never have been able to restore my FJ if not for this group and the team at RPM.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21474.0
We like FJ restoration pictures! Before, during, after.
Steve,
The tiny screws in the carbs are also a PITA, because the heads are easy to strip. RPM has complete sets of Allen-headed screws for the carbs, much better. Make these Allen screws a part of your RPM rebuild job.
An occasional shot of Seafoam (follow the label instructions) just before you fill the tank will keep the carbs clean and shiny inside.
.
I love these restoration posts...along with the FJ modification posts...
Best part of the forum.
Here is the FJ1100 tucked away in the garage without the tank and carbs. The carbs are being packaged for shipping to RPM. I have been restoring a 1968 Honda CL350, which is currently spread out over the rest of the garage and is the reason the FJ has been shunted to the side. The CL350 project is nearly finished, which will free up space for the FJ.
FJ1100.jpgFJ1100.jpg
Randy at RPM and I have been in contact and I will be forwarding the carbs to him later this week. He confirmed that his rebuild includes the addition of Allen head screws. Before the carb rebuild begins I will have to let him know whether the fuel system will be converted to a fuel pump and filter, which I am inclined to do. Is there any downside to making that change?
The "to do" list is pretty daunting at this point and is still being compiled, but at least the restoration is getting off the ground!
Steve
I converted my 86 to have a fuel pump. I made a post and there are two PDF documents you can download that I put together. I was unable to upload it in one document since it was too large so broke it down into two.
Fuel Pump Conversion:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21402.0
I'm happy with the conversion and have not had any issues after nearly 2,000 miles.
In addition to running the normal fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump I also suggest running the Golan fuel filter between the pump and carbs to help protect your newly cleaned carbs from any contaminants.
Golan Fuel Filter:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21424.msg216700#msg216700
https://golanproducts.com/product/super-mini-fuel-filter-1-4-barb-fitting/
I just tried to upload part 1 and part 2 of the fuel pump conversion let's see if this works.
Quote from: 86FJNJ on January 06, 2026, 07:59:54 AMIn addition to running the normal fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump I also suggest running the Golan fuel filter between the pump and carbs to help protect your newly cleaned carbs from any contaminants.
Golan Fuel Filter:
https://golanproducts.com/product/super-mini-fuel-filter-1-4-barb-fitting/
Steve,
You might want a clear fuel filter, so you can see fuel flowing and any collected dirt. These have 1/4" and 5/16" hose barbs.
in-line fuel filter 1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R94CM9W)
in-line fuel filter 2 (https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Fuel-Filter-Engines-Glass-liner-Resistant/dp/B0FCQXRZ6N)
.
Thank you 86FJNJ for the fuel pump conversion downloads. Both came through and are very helpful, along with Red's fuel filter suggestion and information.
In addition to the converting from gravity flow to a fuel pump, the airbox will be removed and replaced by UNI style filters.
Steve
Just let Randy know you're switching to uni-pods and he can make the necessary adjustments to your carb when you send it to him for the rebuild. Typically a shim needs to be added enrich the fuel a bit to address the added air flow from the uni filters.
I like the golan fuel filter because it has 10 micron filtering which was the best I could find. But I still also run the normal yamaha pre-filter which I think is 40 micron to catch the bigger stuff before fuel hits the golan filter after the pump.
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 06, 2026, 02:18:44 PMThank you 86FJNJ for the fuel pump conversion downloads. Both came through and are very helpful, along with Red's fuel filter suggestion and information.
Eric...See how helpful that turned out? Good on ya...that's what makes this forum work.
Steve, FYI the float needle seats are what's different between the gravity flow carbs and the fuel pump carbs.
They have a smaller opening on the fuel pump carbs (vs. gravity flow) due to the higher line pressure.
The gravity flow carbs have float needle seats that have a larger opening, lower line pressure.
If you try and use the gravity flow needle seats on a fuel pump application, the high line pressure from the fuel pump will push the gravity flow needle away from the seat and flooding will occur.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0
Pat, largely thanks to all your help, you're FJ Yoda!
The carbs are packed up to ship to RPM tomorrow, which is also when I am expecting the new Pirelli Sport Demons to arrive. They will replace the original Dunlop (rear) and Bridgestone (front) tires.
Still in the early restoration and acquisition stage.
Not sure how confident you are in your wheel bearings (if they are original) but if you are pulling the wheels off to replace tires changing the bearings out is not that difficult and bearings are not much money IMO for the confidence to know the bearings are good and new. You just need a bearing puller set. The bearings in my FJ were original they seemed ok but being 40 years old I replaced them anyway.
I also imagine you are updating sprockets and chain to new, if so you may want to consider changing gearing. I went from stock 17/41 to 18/40 and like it a lot better, I don't notice any power loss on the bottom end and each gear is a bit longer making for a more enjoyable ride, also bringing my RPM's down a little at highway speeds.
Eric, I will be replacing the wheel bearings and the chain as you suggested. Any gearing changes will likely be future modifications, but you make it sound very appealing. At this point I am primarily focused on getting the bike back into a mechanically sound condition and back on the road.
I do have another concern, however. This may be sacrilege to some (most?) FJ riders, but I am at an age that no longer tolerates riding in a forward bent position and I am hoping to find a modification that will result in a more upright riding position. Do you know if there are others on the list who have, or are looking to modify their FJ's to accommodate aging backs? If so, what modifications have they have made? I see that RPM offers a handle bar riser. Do you know what the experience has been with that riser?
Quote from: 86FJNJ on January 08, 2026, 07:36:20 AMNot sure how confident you are in your wheel bearings (if they are original) but if you are pulling the wheels off to replace tires changing the bearings out is not that difficult and bearings are not much money IMO for the confidence to know the bearings are good and new. You just need a bearing puller set. The bearings in my FJ were original they seemed ok but being 40 years old I replaced them anyway.
I also imagine you are updating sprockets and chain to new, if so you may want to consider changing gearing. I went from stock 17/41 to 18/40 and like it a lot better, I don't notice any power loss on the bottom end and each gear is a bit longer making for a more enjoyable ride, also bringing my RPM's down a little at highway speeds.
Agree totally on the wheel bearings - don't do a restoration on a near 40 year old bike without changing them. :good2:
My FJ originally had 17/40 sprockets. I went to 18/40 at my first chain change to make the bike feel a little less "busy" at highway speeds, then went to 18/38 at my second chain change. The difference from stock is great, making the bike feel much more relaxed at 70+ mph and pretty much eliminating the elusive search for 6th gear that plagued the stock FJ 1200.
Since changing to 18/38, I've not felt the need to make any further changes and most of the FJ riding friends I have, have also settled on the 18/38 sprocket combination as ideal for all round use.
For what it's worth I purchased new 17/41 sprockets and after a few hundred miles grew tired of needing to switch gears so much, I'm happy with 18/40 and honestly wish I did that from the start.
As for risers I think some others may be able to chime in I'm still using stock bars
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 09, 2026, 03:06:55 PMI am hoping to find a modification that will result in a more upright riding position. Do you know if there are others on the list who have, or are looking to modify their FJ's to accommodate aging backs? If so, what modifications have they have made? I see that RPM offers a handle bar riser. Do you know what the experience has been with that riser?
A company called LSL made handlebar conversion kits for our FJ's, alas, no longer available.
Unless you find an LSL kit on FleaBay the only current option I'm aware are the RPM FJ spacers, unless you want to swap out your entire front end... (note: USD forks gets the chicks)
Paging Dan McCoy or Aviation Fred, you guys know about those clip ons you have on your GSXR fork tubes...do they make them in the small 41mm size to clamp on the FJ stanchion tubes?
If so, that may be an option.
I've had the RPM spacers on several bikes and they do help but the options in adjustments of handlebars are hard to beat.
Currently I have FZ-1 bars on my YZF750 fork to FJ conversion and they're great.
I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam and what really helps me are a slightly taller seat (1/2") and lower foot pegs, resulting in less of a bend at the knee. The Buell pegs I installed are 1.5" lower than the stock pegs. That may not sound like much, but I can tell you on long days, it makes a world of difference.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/8/49_15_03_15_1_50_01.jpeg)
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/8/49_15_03_15_1_45_52.jpeg)
STLanduyt,
There are several ways to adapt common 22mm (7/8") handlebars to the FJ. Angle plates and riser blocks are an expensive approach, and
very limited in the result possibilities.
ABM makes a billet steering crown (top fork clamp) for using regular handlebars. You can spend much more, or much less, on this approach. Try eBay at your own risk; they may have some good stuff, or not. They DO have scammers.
Ordinary (aftermarket) handlebars provide a wide selection of sweep, wingspan, height, angle, positioning, and tilt with the new bars. All of your clamps and switches will bolt on to the 22mm handlebars. With new handlebars, you
may need to re-route some cables and hoses, and maybe add extensions if needed.
Lower footpegs may or may not help. If you have foot/ankle damage, a heel-and-toe shifter lever can be a game changer. I had one on my old Ducati, and a couple on the dirt bikes. They take a little time to become familiar and comfortable, but now I would prefer that option on any bike. I saw a DIY bolt-on mod for the FJR1300, with no drilling on the bike, to create a heel-toe shifter. You may also find a usable heel-tow shifter made OEM for another bike. Obviously, you won't damage your shoe-leather with a heel-toe shifter.
With a more upright body position, a touring windscreen may be in order.
Your call.
Quote from: STLanduyt on January 09, 2026, 03:06:55 PMI do have another concern, however. This may be sacrilege to some (most?) FJ riders, but I am at an age that no longer tolerates riding in a forward bent position and I am hoping to find a modification that will result in a more upright riding position. Do you know if there are others on the list who have, or are looking to modify their FJ's to accommodate aging backs? If so, what modifications have they have made? I see that RPM offers a handle bar riser. Do you know what the experience has been with that riser?
The is company offers a service to make a custom stem to mount any forks to any motorcycle. I have a 1978 CB750 and this is a popular mod to fit a modern 2000's sportbike front end onto the old Hondas and other bikes from that era.
I'm considering seeing if they could make a stem to fit a modern R1 front end onto my FJ1200 but won't cross that bridge until I finish my CB.
In switching your stock FJ front end to a modern sportbike front end like R1 that should open some more options for you to install risers of your hight preference and superbike handlebars which would make the riding position better. But it's a costly conversion. $400 for the custom stem plus whatever you spend on used forks from eBay plus the risers and bars etc.
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/custom/products/custom-stem-for-any-application
Thanks Red!
I've added ABM to my vendors list for FJ handlebar conversion kits. German TUV certification is a definite plus.
I would worry about Chinese quality.
https://ab-m.de/en/motorcycle-accessories-shop-details/110/superbike-handlebar-conversion-kits/20/kit-superbike
The ABM kit comes with a longer single brake line for use with the oem line splitter...however if you have double brake lines you'll have to call Robert at RPM and have him make you a longer double brake lines along with a clutch line.
Cheers
Pat
I just used the fj stem in the 2008 gsxr1000 triples. You'll have to build up the bottom of the stem. Was done by running some welding beads around the base. Then machined down to the gsxr stem diameter. And pressing it into the gsxr triples. Could be done with any brand front end. I suppose.
You have offered a lot of alternatives. Thanks!
I am only at the initial stages of learning what needs to be refreshed, renewed or replaced, and whether the engine will turn over or needs further work. So a lot of discovery remains.
Today was spent dismantling the front brake and clutch reservoirs. Both exteriors are pretty weathered and have lost the white painted lettering on their covers. My plan is to clean up and repaint the exteriors of the reservoirs and use kits to rebuild the innards, and also replacing the hydraulic lines.
The Buell pegs look great and I will replace the Yamaha pegs with them to gain that bit of additional leg space. That assumes, of course, that those Buell pegs are still available, which has been a problem with sourcing steering modifications. Randy at RPM has steering risers, which may help. Also, I will be trying the ABM Superbike Handlebar Conversion Kit for the Yamaha FJ1100 1984~86, which I purchased from Bikermart in the UK.
Steve
FJowners,
Just a quick note to add that Europe and the UK have lots of FJs on the roads over there, and they still have many good sources for FJ parts. They also have independent 3D printed plastics (or the .STL files for making them). You may want to join a few FJ forums across the pond, for better access to the non-USA FJ parts. Beware of any shipping and tariff charges, of course.
:good2:
If anyone wants to buy parts this side of the pond and get them shipped to me, I could send them on to you to avoid the import hassle.
Quote from: Millietant on January 11, 2026, 07:52:54 AMIf anyone wants to buy parts this side of the pond and get them shipped to me, I could send them on to you to avoid the import hassle.
A very kind offer Dean...You're the best!
Dean, on the internet I have been looking for FJ engine guards and ran across,
https://www.fjownersclub.co.uk/product-page/fj1100-1200-engine-bars
are you familiar with this group? I have been inclined to join, which is required to purchase the engine bars and other items that they sell.
Steve
Steve,
Just wanted to add, when the time comes to actually buy handlebars, most right-side-up bike shops will let you take new handlebars out to your bike. Make a (NO TOOLS) test fit on the parking lot, one bar at a time. Good chance they will have the right stuff to fit you, after a few tries.
Just for future reference . . . :bye2: