Hi everyone, I'm a fairly new 1992 FJ1200 owner and am glad to be a part of this community!
The bike was running beautifully but I'm having an issue now where the bike cranks but there's no ignition - I'm suspecting the fuel pump relay as the pump's clicking seems weak after the first failed start and I'm only finding 11V or less at the connector to the fuel pump, with the battery freshly charged with good voltage.
I'm weirdly unable to find the fuel pump relay on the bike, I'm under the impression that this should be near the fuel pump and accessible behind the right side panel? The blue/black wire from the fuel pump connector appears to go into the wiring harness, and reappears to go into the fuse box under the seat. Would someone mind confirming if I'm just looking in the wrong place for the fuel pump relay, or have a photo of where the relay should be?
Here's what happens when I attempt to start:
-battery fully charged, voltage checked at fuel pump connector 11V, turn the key and hear the fuel pump clicking for 5 seconds
-hold start, engine cranks as long as I'm holding it but there's no ignition
-turn the key off and on again, voltage at fuel pump connector <11V and fuel pump clicks maybe twice
-same crank but no ignition condition
I'd appreciate any help, apologies for this post if it's redundant but I've attempted searching the forums for the relay location.
Cheers!
how long ago was the bike running beautifully?
It was running perfectly five days ago, then it was parked till yesterday when I attempted to start it and found no ignition.
My first thought...battery. But if the starter motor continues to turn over the engine without slowing down... then rule that out.
I'm going by memory but if I remember correctly, the fuel pump does not have a stand alone control relay (like the starter)
The control on the power for the fuel pump runs through the ignition box which also regulates the 5 second delay.
It's doubtful that went bad....what can go bad is the fuel pump itself.
Next: Rule out bad fuel pump. The contacts in the pump can be going bad and/or leaking diaphragm.
All Fuel pump FJer's should know that if they are out on the road and their fuel pump goes bad... (fuel starvation, e.g. running out of gas with plenty in the tank) they can bypass the fuel pump to get home.
All fuel pump FJer's should keep a male/male fuel line connector in their tool kit like this
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49-190825202319.jpeg)
Pull the seat and right side cover. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines from the fuel pump and with the line connector, connect the two lines together. I use a rubber shod small needle nose vice grip to pinch off the fuel line coming from the tank, that way I don't have to dick around with that fragile petcock. I release the pinch clamp when the line connection is secure.
See if that gets gas to the carbs...it should....unless that's not your problem.
[rant on] If you do need a new fuel pump, DO NOT buy the eBay Chinese pumps. Buy oem Yamaha, Ask me how I know. [rant off]
Next step is to check the ignition.
Take a spark plug out and see if you have spark.
Let us know what you find.
First you need to be sure if its a spark or fuel problem.
Pop out a plug and check to make sure you have a spark first, then check that you have fuel coming out of the fuel pump (pull the outlet pipe off and connect a short length of pipe to take the fuel to a can/jar) when you switch on and try to start the bike.
Once you've don this, you'll have ruled out a couple of possibilities, or confirmed your suspicions. Then it's a process of elimination to find out why the pump is not pumping. :good2:
First I would put a space heater on that engine for an hour to warm it up. If you live in a colder area the bike will be harder to start. See if it starts after the engine is actually warm. Was it significantly colder outside when you went to start it and it didn't start? Like below 45 degrees? My FJ runs great but I'm in NJ and now that it's colder when the bike sits for several days it can take a long time to crank before it starts, happened to me this past Sunday, bikes also need more fuel when the temps get colder so you could certainly increase pilot and main jet sizes if bike was tuned for summer temps and you plan to ride in winter.
If that doesn't work you can also take take the air filter off and spray some starting fluid into the carbs and try to start it, if it fires up for a second you'll know you have spark and that you're likely not getting fuel or not getting enough fuel.
If you just got the bike is the fuel valve in the on position to allow fuel to flow to the pump and carbs?
If the oil is 20-50 from summer you may want to put in 10-40 which will make winter starts easier. I have 20-50 in mine and noticed it cranks slower in the cold temps.
Do you have the choke knob pulled out before starting, these bikes or mine at least won't start from cold unless you give it some choke.
Thanks everyone for the replies. For more context, the bike was parked outside for a few nights unused where the temperature was falling below freezing, It was probably 40°F when I attempted to start it with full choke and good battery. I'm keeping it in my garage overnight and will continue with my diagnosis again tomorrow after warming it with a space heater as suggested by 86FJNJ, will check for fuel and then spark but I'm hoping the bike just finds ignition when it's warmer :biggrin: .
@Pat your memory of the fuel pump circuit seems consistent with what's on my FJ, my Haynes manual had me looking for a fuel pump relay that I just couldn't find unless it's much further forward on the bike. Thanks for the tip about bypassing the fuel pump!
Manual attached for reference.
(https://imgur.com/WDprlns)
I'll update again tomorrow!
Are you using E10 fuel?
If so, at those temps the 10% ethanol in your gas sucked the moisture out of the air.
Your carbs are now full of 50% fuel and 50% frozen water. No wonder it didn't start.
E10 fuel (open to the atmosphere) really really really sucks below freezing temps.
Drain and wash out your tank. Remove the fuel bowls from your carbs and clean them out.
If you must keep your FJ outside in below freezing temps, do not use E10 fuel.
Use non ethanol fuel with a cold weather stabilizer.
Great news everyone!!! I kept the bike inside overnight and warmed it up for an hour with a space heater, it didn't start initially but I shot a light blast of starter fluid behind the air filter as 86FJNJ suggested and the bike fired right up and appears to be running and starting like normal again! :yahoo: :good2:
Pat I appreciate the insight regarding E10, I'll be storing the bike for the winter soon and will take the proper care. Unfortunately up here in Canada, it's not possible to find ethanol-free fuel anymore. The bike will definitely be parked indoors from now on.
Thanks everyone!!!
good to hear, if you continue to having starting issues in the cold I think that's just normal with an old carb bike but you could improve it slightly by bumping up the pilot jet one size. Bike looks stock so if pilots are 37.5 you could put in 40.0 pilots that may help.
Find a race shop or dealer that sells race gas. They will be able to get non ethanol fuel for you.
A cheaper option would be to find a local airport and get some 100LL it won't run the greatest but at least it's ethanol free and won't gum it up.
Here in the states Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, etc, all sell non ethanol gas the landscaping folks use in their equipment.
If you can't find any ethanol free fuel, at least drain the bowls on your carbs.
Remember if you simply shut the fuel off to your carbs and run the engine until it stops, the fuel level in the carbs only drops below the level of pilot jets, meaning there is still fuel left in the bowls. Gotta drain those dry.
Best wishes for winter.
I'm glad to be living in Arizona.
I hear that they make special shovels designed for snow...is that true? :rofl2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 11, 2025, 06:27:11 PMAll fuel pump FJer's should keep a male/male fuel line connector in their tool kit like this
Tell me why this just happened to me yesterday :lol: well at least I got one now!
Dont tell me it really is in the ignitor :lol: :dash2:
Had the bike die on me while riding yesterday. Pump wouldn't prime when turning the bike on, had a buddy grab a coupler for me, disconnected the pump that way it wouldnt be running dry if it was intermittent. Alan told me though that it runs off of the rod position of the solenoid on the diaphragm.
I just got back and tested continuity on the pump itself and it rang out good, then i checked for voltage from the connector with the bike running and then continuity and got no voltage and open line of course!
Thankfully all my other spare carbs are for gravity fed!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 11, 2025, 06:27:11 PMMy first thought...battery. But if the starter motor continues to turn over the engine without slowing down... then rule that out.
I'm going by memory but if I remember correctly, the fuel pump does not have a stand alone control relay (like the starter)
The control on the power for the fuel pump runs through the ignition box which also regulates the 5 second delay.
It's doubtful that went bad....what can go bad is the fuel pump itself.
Next: Rule out bad fuel pump. The contacts in the pump can be going bad and/or leaking diaphragm.
All Fuel pump FJer's should know that if they are out on the road and their fuel pump goes bad... (fuel starvation, e.g. running out of gas with plenty in the tank) they can bypass the fuel pump to get home.
All fuel pump FJer's should keep a male/male fuel line connector in their tool kit like this
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49-190825202319.jpeg)
Pull the seat and right side cover. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines from the fuel pump and with the line connector, connect the two lines together. I use a rubber shod small needle nose vice grip to pinch off the fuel line coming from the tank, that way I don't have to dick around with that fragile petcock. I release the pinch clamp when the line connection is secure.
See if that gets gas to the carbs...it should....unless that's not your problem.
[rant on] If you do need a new fuel pump, DO NOT buy the eBay Chinese pumps. Buy oem Yamaha, Ask me how I know. [rant off]
Next step is to check the ignition.
Take a spark plug out and see if you have spark.
Let us know what you find.
Yah Pat.I got a brand new ebay Chinese copy feul pump. With the 92 I just picked up. The stock one gave up. So I put the brand new copy on. It lasted about 50 maybe 60 miles.
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on November 15, 2025, 03:37:53 PMDont tell me it really is in the ignitor :lol: :dash2:
I just got back and tested continuity on the pump itself and it rang out good, then i checked for voltage from the connector with the bike running and then continuity and got no voltage and open line of course!
Good that you checked the fuel pump power with the bike running. I made the mistake checking the 12v power for the fuel pump with the key on....but the engine off.
I forgot about the 5 second power off function when there is no rpm signal to the ignition box.
Of course I had no power. I turned the key on, then casually walked around the bike and connected my multi tester, by then the 5 seconds had elapsed, thus no power. A rookie mistake.
You can look for another ignition box or like 86FJNJ did, install an aftermarket fuel pump safety switch and power your pump off your green plug, or other switched power plug.
This will bypass your ignition box.
I'm glad you got home! Cheers. Pat
Quote from: giantkiller on November 15, 2025, 04:42:43 PMYah Pat.I got a brand new ebay Chinese copy feul pump. With the 92 I just picked up. The stock one gave up. So I put the brand new copy on. It lasted about 50 maybe 60 miles.
If you open up the Chinese pump and look at those cheap stamped points vs the quality of the Japanese pump, the difference is striking.
Oh but they have a "lifetime warranty" If you even do manage to reach them (good luck) they will just send you another cheap pump.
Thanks again to RPM Robert for bringing me out a real pump to the WCR in Coleville. The RPM pump is still running fine.
Lesson learned.