Took off rear wheel on my 86 and it looks like there are two bearings in the wheel and then another bearing in the hub that separates from the rim. I plan to change the wheel bearings since I'm assuming they are original, so should I also change the bearings in that separate hub that the sprocket mounts to?
Also, do those rubber spacers for the cush drive ever go bad, is it ok if they are dried and cracked a little?
Yes - replace the bearing in the sprocket carrier too. It takes the load of the engine power through the chain.
Don't know on the drive rubbers - I've replaced one, but don't think I've seen any dried and cracked? :unknown:
Quote from: fj1289 on April 12, 2025, 09:22:12 PMYes - replace the bearing in the sprocket carrier too. It takes the load of the engine power through the chain.
Don't know on the drive rubbers - I've replaced one, but don't think I've seen any dried and cracked? :unknown:
This :good2:
Never had a cush drive rubber fail on a FJ in 39 years of owning and running them.
+3 on the hub bearing. Absolutely.
ok thanks and that makes sense I see RPM's rear wheel bearing kit has 3 in the picture.
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARWBK%28E%29
Anyone have any recommended tools for pulling and reinstalling wheel bearings?
Quote from: 86FJNJ on April 13, 2025, 11:56:55 AMok thanks and that makes sense I see RPM's rear wheel bearing kit has 3 in the picture.
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARWBK%28E%29
Anyone have any recommended tools for pulling and reinstalling wheel bearings?
I can recommend these type, makes it very easy to remove and you don't really need anything other than a hammer and old bearing to reinstall.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Tools%3ABearingRemover
Thanks I'll add them into my cart, never used them before do they come with instructions or is it intuitive?
Very easy to use. But it's odd how they say bearing puller when it seems to be a bearing pusher.
Pick the one that fits the bore of bearing, place it in there with wheel on top sitting on concrete floor, put rod thru bore of other side with chisel in slot, give it a couple of taps to seat it, then put wheel on some timbers to elevate it off floor and give the rod some more harder hits and bearing should be pushed out. Some say a bit of heat.
But I'm sure you'll find the easy way, you've been doing a great job so far.
Btw, you can buy bearings separately at bearing shops too and quality branded ones too.
I recently did front and back as All Balls were not feeling that great on FJ1100 with standard 16" rims, so yours could be different.
Bought these below, think the top was front and bottom 2 were rear
2 x Koyo/JTEKT 6302-ZZ Deep Groove Ball Bearing Metal Shield 15 x 42 x 13mm
1 x Koyo/JTEKT 6305-ZZ Deep Groove Ball Bearing Metal Shield 25 x 62 x 17mm
2 x Koyo/JTEKT 6304-ZZ Deep Groove Ball Bearing Metal Shield 20 x 52 x 15mm
Thanks for that explanation I understand and will try that way. I'm placing an order with RPM soon so will get this as well. And then putting new bearings in do I just grease them up a little and use this same tool to lightly tap them into place?
Quote from: 86FJNJ on April 13, 2025, 05:29:14 PMThanks for that explanation I understand and will try that way. I'm placing an order with RPM soon so will get this as well. And then putting new bearings in do I just grease them up a little and use this same tool to lightly tap them into place?
With the bearings still in their plastic packs, I usually pop them into the freezer for an hour and take them out immediately before putting them in. I don't use grease, but the cooling usually causes just enough shrinkage to let the bearings trap in with a minimum amount of force. I always use a bearing driver of the of the right size when installing them - they're cheap and very useful and I seem to have ended up using them a lot (putting new bearings into wheels to seal into friends FJ's !).
I have a JMP kit bought here in the UK that's like one of these.
https://tools2udirect.com/products/us-pro-17-piece-metric-bush-bearing-driver-set-6192
Thank you I'll use the freeze trick when I get to that point and thanks for the link
Quote from: 86FJNJ on April 13, 2025, 05:29:14 PMThanks for that explanation I understand and will try that way. I'm placing an order with RPM soon so will get this as well. And then putting new bearings in do I just grease them up a little and use this same tool to lightly tap them into place?
As suggested, stick them in the freezer, and use the old bearing along with hammer to knock them in on the outer race.
The tool I mentioned is only used to remove them, do not try to use to install
Is there any special trick to getting out the spacer that installs into the bearing in the hub with the sprocket on it? Do I knock out the bearing first then knock out the spacer or try to knock out the spacer first then knock out the bearing?
So, I got all the bearings out and installed new bearings. When I did that the spacer in between the bearings is definitely tight and touching the inner race of both bearings to the point the spacer doesn't have any play...is that ok? When I took the bearings out I noticed the inner spacer did have some small wiggle room. I used bearings from RPM and they appear to be the same size as the ones I pulled out. Just want to make sure I can't install the bearings "too tight". Should be fine for my attempt to go around the block tomorrow but want to make sure bike is safe for when I actually get it on the road.
A tight spacer is a good spacer, no rattles :good:
As for installing the new bearings. I have had good luck using an inexpensive driver kit such as this in the following link.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-10-piece-63261.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901271240&campaignid=21901271240&utm_content=171677806302&adsetid=171677806302&product=63261&store=75&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901271240&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrPHABhCIARIsAFW2XBPwZqYFuWj4NA0VYjeBWFW9ZRSs0RxDwR9SjS5CcIHpgSvKwKqH6U0aAkwqEALw_wcB
Fred
I have a couple of brass drifts that I use to remove old bearings. Since the bearing is going to be trashed anyways I don't see the problem. I do have a Park bearing removal tool for steering head bearings. If I did this job often I would have various sizes of the Park tool.
Any play between the bearings and spacer will go to zero when you tighten the axle nut. This way all the seeming loose parts and up acting like a solid axle for the rear wheel. All the wile, the bearings are not pinched or bound and roll freely.
That said, when you reinstall, the spacer might have a little play till you torque the axle nut.