Folks,
Just picked up spare engine 1200 with 25km only. Engine is clean stock with 160-165 compression across. Stock cams were taken away to legend car however I got as a replacement racing cams. No info about cams. Looks like old stock inventory, brand new. Nothing I can find on the cams them self's. So I measured them yesterday and looks like intake lift is 0.375 and exhaust is 0.365 (raw measurement with caliper so there maybe a bit tolerance). Looking for the cam lobe profile, nose is pointy and overall base shape is slightly bigger than stock. Looking through out webcams, megacycle, Yoshi, Kent, etc. and it is hard to say what I have....
1. Based on the measurements, do I need stronger springs? I think I do...
2. Since cam brand is unknown, how to find tolerance for shims?
3. What shims should I start with to set it up as a beginning?
4. Can someone clarify shims on top vs under? My understanding is that stock design motor has shims on top. And for example FZR1000 motor has small shims under bucket. That being said, with high cams conversion is needed to shims under?
5. What about cam sprockets? Does it need to by modified to adjust timing?
Thanks :drinks:
Paging Chris and Randy.
Mario, are you wanting to use these in a street engine?
Have you ever experienced a race built engine on a street bike?
Which today's electronic safety features, that's one thing, but an old school lumpy peaky carbureted race engine is a different beast....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 08, 2025, 11:48:05 AMPaging Chris and Randy.
Mario, are you wanting to use these in a street engine?
Have you ever experienced a race built engine on a street bike?
Which today's electronic safety features, that's one thing, but an old school lumpy peaky carbureted race engine is a different beast....
Hi Pat,
I am not racing anymore so for sure street engine. More to keep my mind busy working on something.
Yes, this is not my first rodeo Pat. But for sure not high cams or anything like track motor. Street or weekend pleasure. I want to build something that is street able use but the same time much higher power. I know there is tons of options but I need start somewhere.... so I got an engine and cams, that came with it. I thing this is good starting point.
Lol, you taking about high cams V8 beasts, old schools.....
Cool beans, carry on, I'll follow along with your build.
Looking forward to see what our forum engine experts advise.
Do the cam base circles match the oem?
I can understand the need for shim under bucket for high rpm's and/or pointy cams but it seems like a PIA to have to remove the cams every time for shim adjustment.
Cheers
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 08, 2025, 12:37:36 PMCool beans, carry on, I'll follow along with your build.
Looking forward to see what our forum engine experts advise.
Do the cam base circles match the oem?
I can understand the need for shim under bucket for high rpm's and/or pointy cams but it seems like a PIA to have to remove the cams every time for shim adjustment.
Cheers
Absolutely Pat.
I will be more than happy to learn from experts that built many already.
Cam base I think is slitty bigger than stock but to be completely honest, I do not have spare cam to measure. This is just observation based on looking it from the side of the lobe, where material is added. To be checked and confirmed. Will try to post some pictures.
If shims under to be used, this will be the biggest PITA, for sure.
Since my other engine compression is theoretically back but still smoke throughout vent breeder (unfortunately, 10 minutes ride and you smell like BBQ sausage, lol), I may do swap with new engine on stock cams.
Then old engine build with new set of 1297, 1314 or 1350 big bore and full head job with those cams.
Still going use B12 product and see if oil rings are stuck or not. Apparently this is good product and should works well. B12 ordered. Never give up....
Sorry for changing topic.
Thanks
This is what they look like:
https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6885-080425214645-126621514.jpeg
https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6885-080425214647-126661382.jpeg
Those a definitely welded cams. They will have a stamp on them someplace is done by megacycle or web.
Yes, you should use slotted cam gears to set the cam timing.
The stock shim configuration will work fine.
Don't turm those cams in that motor, the one photo ahows there is no shim in the bucket.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 11, 2025, 10:35:20 AMThose a definitely welded cams. They will have a stamp on them someplace is done by megacycle or web.
Yes, you should use slotted cam gears to set the cam timing.
The stock shim configuration will work fine.
Don't turm those cams in that motor, the one photo ahows there is no shim in the bucket.
Randy - RPM
Hi Randy,
Yes, there is no shims at the moment, there are in my box with shims :good2: Eagle eye
Can not see anything stamp on the cams, however I will pull them out and double check including measurements.
What tolerance should I follow if no stamp brand on the cams???
O.E. clearances are fine.
We don't venture too far away from those regardless of what we are doing with an engine.
Randy - RPM
With .375 lift - sounds like megacycle 268-00 grind. I think these are a great street cam. They could also be web cam 540 grind at .385 lift. I have read issues with an earlier web cam grind with same lift and duration - 163 grind - but they tended to float the valves and put the closing ramps on the cams. Supposedly the 540 grind replaced the 163 grind and had better valve train control. https://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/web-cam-hard-weld-camshaft-problems.307587/ (See post #13).
Would be really good to find the markings on the cams. I've seen them marked on the edge of the mounting boss for the gear, and have seen them marked on the shaft itself between two of the lobes.
Cam shows at the front 555 009, other end P9C
To answer one of your original questions.....yes.....you need heavier springs. look in the Kibblewhite catalog.
Sorry, I missed the spring question. Here's the springs you need.
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AValveSpringsHP
Randy - RPM
Thanks guys, appreciate any feedback.
Like I said before, I was able to find is this number 555 009 on the front of the cam. Nothing else. Measured cams so I know approx, what they are.
So time to start collecting parts:
- new gaskets
-new valve seals
-new valve springs
- adjustable cam gears
In a meantime work begins.....Go big or go home......start to look for big bore.....
Curt Andrew's has a complete cylinder/sleeve/ Ross piston kits in 1350/1380/1410cc sizes.
You do have to relieve your engine case, they offer that service as well.
https://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/cylinder-kit-yamaha-fj-1412cc-84mm-ross-piston-cylinder-kit/
Randy @ RPM used Curt's 1380 kit on my engine and I and very happy...45k miles and counting, uses no oil.
Keep the updates coming! Cheers. Pat
We offer a drop in 1250 kit, no case work required.
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1250Bloc
We are also your complete and sometime only source for all your FJ emgine parts you are searching for: www.rpmracingca.com
Randy - RPM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 01, 2025, 07:05:28 PMCurt Andrew's has a complete cylinder/sleeve/ Ross piston kits in 1350/1380/1410cc sizes.
You do have to relieve your engine case, they offer that service as well.
https://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/cylinder-kit-yamaha-fj-1412cc-84mm-ross-piston-cylinder-kit/
Randy @ RPM used Curt's 1380 kit on my engine and I and very happy...45k miles and counting, uses no oil.
Keep the updates coming! Cheers. Pat
Thanks Robert for info!
Pat,
I was thinking 1294 or 1314 kit but you are always makes me go for more expensive stuff :dash2:
Not sure yet what will be end result.... still thinking and calculating options...before my wife see my spendings and divorce me.... :drinks:
I was think to buy nice sectional for garage just in case she locks the door :biggrin:
For now I am purchasing front and back suspension (see attached)
Need to find TAce build topics. I see TAce swing arm has bigger diameter shaft so I need to figure this out. Also , does rear blue dot caliper from YZF fit TAce swing arm caliper bracket or need to be modified? I remember front blue dots require a small shaving which is not a big deal. What about master brake cylinder? Which one to go for?
Thanks
Enjoy weekend guys :drinks:
Some pics of the cam:
Yes, the TAce swing arm pivot shaft is a bigger diameter than the FJ but you will notice the OD of TAce swing arm bearings is the same OD as the FJ swing arm bearings....meaning, the FJ swingarm bearings will fit into the TAce swing arm...also meaning you can also use the oem FJ pivot shaft (along with the FJ bearings and end caps) so you can discard the heavier TAce piviot shaft....clear as mud?
The TAce swing arm is too wide to fit into the FJ frame so you will need to narrow down the TAce swinger to be the same width as the FJ swinger. (Don't forget to allow clearance for the end caps)
Tell your wife it's all about enhancing your motorcycle safety....works for me.
Cheers
Pat
I'm thinking most likely that was a part number or lot number for the plug put in the end of the camshaft. When I get home after this trip I'll try to post pics where I have seen the camshaft grind numbers previously.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 03, 2025, 10:55:26 PMYes, the TAce swing arm pivot shaft is a bigger diameter than the FJ but you will notice the OD of TAce swing arm bearings is the same OD as the FJ swing arm bearings....meaning, the FJ swingarm bearings will fit into the TAce swing arm...also meaning you can also use the oem FJ pivot shaft (along with the FJ bearings and end caps) so you can discard the heavier TAce piviot shaft....clear as mud?
The TAce swing arm is too wide to fit into the FJ frame so you will need to narrow down the TAce swinger to be the same width as the FJ swinger. (Don't forget to allow clearance for the end caps)
Tell your wife it's all about enhancing your motorcycle safety....works for me.
Cheers
Pat
Thanks Pat. Clear with Swing Arm.
My wife already knows all tricks ...... :rofl:
You can install an exhaust and intake valve with soft springs and measure actual lift/duration off the bucket.....it ends guessing and speculation. :good2: