86FJ barn find, I didn't disconnect anything from this, the only thing I can think of is something related to fuel delivery?
Anyone know what it's for? I didn't see wiring diagram for 86 in the files.
What is this? What is it for? This part didn't come with my bike but I saw it on ebay and it looked like the green plug from this piece would fit into the green plug in question on my bike so I bought it and it fits perfectly. I asked the person selling it what it was and they had no idea. Would appreciate everyone help here. Thanks!
California FJ's have a special emission system that recirculates gas vapor from the fuel tank. When the engine is off and a vacuum is not present this electric valve routes the gas vapors to charcoal canisters which filter the hydrocarbons out of the tank vapors.
This green plug is on all FJ wiring harness but is only used on California models.
It is an excellent point for a switched 12v power tap.
Thanks Pat. Is it possible to use that green plug to wire up a fuel pump as the power source on my gravity fed
Good question, what size fuse does that plug have?
Don't forget about your fuel pump safety switch
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/re12003.html
Pat, I'm not 100% sure if it's on a fuse. I don't see it connecting directly but if it indirectly connects to a fuse through one of those other junctions then I guess it would be connected to a fuse. I've got no experience reading these wiring diagrams though. If it's not connected to a fuse or the correct size fuse for a fuel pump can't I get some kind of in line fuse?
I'm sure the green plug is on a fuse...but what size? Need to see how many amps you need for the fuel pump. If the green plug has a 7.5 amp fuse, that won't be enough....I would suspect you need at least a 15 amp for the fuel pump...
Short the plug...see which fuse blows...
Ok, how do I short it? Sorry I'm a newbie
Or... stick a volt meter on it and start pulling fuses until you lose voltage.
Thanks I'll try that
If the fuse that's is connected to this plug is not the correct size for the fuel pump can I just add an in line fuse like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C9V36YHC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A28S1NG428PI94&th=1
If you add a fuse, make sure all the wires in that circuit can handle the amps you want to run through it. The fuse prevents the wire from becoming a fire starter.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 26, 2025, 09:01:21 PMGood question, what size fuse does that plug have?
Don't forget about your fuel pump safety switch
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/re12003.html
Pat, the description for this safety switch says it has a 7.5amp fuse built in, would that be an issue if the fuel pump takes a larger 15a or 20a fuse? I found a 20amp in line fuse that I purchased that I'm thinking I can use this for the fuse but still need to sort out the safety aspect if I can't use the switch you sent.
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-mini-fuse-holders.html?fits-motorcycle=Yamaha/FJ1200/FJ1200W/1989
I'm out of town so I can't check the FJ circuit size (amps) that feeds the FJ fuel pump... perhaps others can chime in.
My instincts tell me that 7 amps could provably be ok for the low volume low pressure FJ fuel pump.
If the aftermarket fuel pump safety switch comes with a 7 amp fuse, I suspect a change (if needed) to a 10 amp fuse would be no problem.
Cheers
Pat
Thanks Pat, if for some reason I can't use that safety switch what about wiring in one of those safety switches that jet skis have where you put the pin in and connect it to yourself and if you get thrown off it pulls the pin and shut everything down? Probably annoying to deal with on a regular rider but for a bike I plan to take locally to work and back probably not that much of an annoyance?
Honestly you'll be fine with the 7A, I was looking at the fuel pump that Holley offers and has been used here more than once.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-426?srsltid=AfmBOoqifxffYtAg5VyzraT9WzqbEYHChyoqyII6ytTi-LDUNFJLv7L5
Holley recommends a 3A fuse for this guy.
Thankfully there's not a lot of distance the fuel has to travel and being NA pressure isn't going to be that high so your amp draw should be well below 7A even for OEM I imagine.
Years back, I had a low side where I got separated from my FJ. I got slammed hard broke 4 ribs and I couldn't get to my bike to turn it off. My lovely FJ just lay there idling on her side with no oil pressure...ruined the engine. My riding buddy came back after 5 minutes or so but the damage was already done.
I like the idea of a safety teather shutting off the engine, fuel pump and inflating a vest air bag.
That said....I don't see why you couldn't use that fuel pump safety switch.
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on May 12, 2025, 04:14:19 PMThankfully there's not a lot of distance the fuel has to travel and being NA pressure isn't going to be that high so your amp draw should be well below 7A even for OEM I imagine.
I think you're right....
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on May 12, 2025, 04:12:56 PMHonestly you'll be fine with the 7A, I was looking at the fuel pump that Holley offers and has been used here more than once.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-426?srsltid=AfmBOoqifxffYtAg5VyzraT9WzqbEYHChyoqyII6ytTi-LDUNFJLv7L5
Holley recommends a 3A fuse for this guy.
Are you saying I could use this Holly fuel pump on my FJ?
Quote from: 86FJNJ on May 13, 2025, 07:32:25 AMAre you saying I could use this Holly fuel pump on my FJ?
I have a Holley pump. See this page of my project thread:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.msg198341;topicseen#msg198341
I also added a fuel shutoff as the Holley does not have this feature like the stock FJ pump.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=20096.0
Thank you for the info, I will spend some time researching these pumps and your threads. I have no experience doing wiring work like this so will have to really make sure I map it out to see if I can understand it. If anyone knows what size fuse the stock fuel pump on an 89+ uses please let me know.
From what I was seeing on the wiring diagram for the 1990 model is that R/W Red White wire coming off of your fuse block supplies power to the kill switch, ignitor, and fuel pump relay coil.
The L/W Blue White coming off the ignitor supplies power through the fuel pump relay contacts and that turns into L/B Blue Black going to the fuel pump itself, and from the pump it goes to ground i.e the chassis.
Soo from what I'm seeing is that the fuel pump itself is not directly connected to a fuse, but rather the ignitor itself is the one protected from excessive amp draw.
I used one of those fuse extenders. Open the image in a new tab and you can zoom in. This is an '89.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6694_27_05_22_9_39_28_1.jpeg)
Pat (and everyone), looks like Pingel makes a motorcycle kill switch. Would using something like this save me from a bunch of fancy wiring when trying to wire the fuel pump on my 86"?
If the fuel pump is powdered by the ignition being ON and I wire this kill switch into the ignition so that if the switch is pulled the power turns the ignition off that should shut the engine and fuel pump down, right?
https://www.pingelonline.com/safety-kill-switches/641-two-piece-handlebar-mount-safety-kill-switch-7-8-normally-open-circuit.asp
The fuel pump safety switch module assures you that the fuel pump is shut off 3 seconds after the switch module sees no rpm signal from your tach lead.
On the other hand...As long as the teather is plugged in, your fuel pump is on.
That's the difference that I see.
I see no complex wiring problem using the fuel pump safety switch. If you are not sure about the amperage capacity of the green plug circuit, go ahead and plan on running a dedicated circuit from your battery. No big deal.
I ordered the safety switch. I have a used fuel pump from an 89 that was running rather recently. I also ordered an in line fuse that can handle 5-20amps which maybe I don't need anymore since the safety switch has a built in 7.5 fuse or maybe I still use the in line fuse and put a 10 amp fuse in it just to be safe as a back up? other than some 14ga or 16ga wire is there anything else I'm missing? Do I need a fuel relay or does the safety switch I ordered resolve the purpose of a fuel relay?
No pump relay is needed, you run your pump directly off the safety switch.
Did you ever find out what circuit the green plug was on?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 12, 2025, 07:08:54 PMYears back, I had a low side where I got separated from my FJ. I got slammed hard broke 4 ribs and I couldn't get to my bike to turn it off. My lovely FJ just lay there idling on her side with no oil pressure...ruined the engine. My riding buddy came back after 5 minutes or so but the damage was already done.
I like the idea of a safety teather shutting off the engine, fuel pump and inflating a vest air bag.
That said....I don't see why you couldn't use that fuel pump safety switch.
Oh come on Pat 4 broken ribs. That's like a slap on the back. Lol.
I broke all of the ribs on my left side. One on both ends. Partially collapsed lung and broken scapula. Got on my bent raptor 700. And road one handed 36 miles of trails back to my buddies truck. Then the hospital in the U.P. sent me to the Froedert trauma center in Milwaukee. And you couldn't even save your fj.
Lol. I just think I'm too stupid to know when I'm really hurt. Lol.
You are an animal Dan. Your threshold for pain is off the charts.
I woke up, couldn't breathe, and knew to stay still until help came.
My MOS 91B2 training kicked in...
Fuck that hurt....(although, no road rash)
I ordered the safety switch. Do my markings on the safety switch look correct? The part I am not 100% positive about is in the instructions the red wire is "to switched 12v" which I would imagine is the "RUN" switch on my handle bars, correct?
But one side of the purple loop says "To Battery + OR switched 12v" on the diagram. For now I've marked that as going to the positive starter solenoid connection, does that sound correct?
The written instructions seem to clarify further by saying "The larger ring terminal can be used to attach one purple wire to the starter solenoid as a good source of battery power. The other purple lead would be wired to the positive lead on the fuel pump.
Is this the starter solenoid? If so I will attach one end of the purple loop to this, correct?
If I am attaching the red wire on the safety switch to the RUN switch on the handle bars, I see there are two wires going to the switch, I guess to close the circuit. Does it matter which of the two wires I connect the red wire to? I'm thinking one would always have power and one wouldn't and I would need to connect to the one that doesn't, is that right? Or does it not matter?
For the green wire on the safety switch which is suppose to be connected to the tachometer, I see there is one grey wire coming off of one of the coils and through the connector it goes into two grey wires. According to the 1986 diagram one is suppose to be dark grey to the right turn signal and the other grey is to the tachometer but they are both the same color grey on my bike.
Rather than take the entire fairing off to see the grey wire that goes to the back of the tach I'm thinking I just cut one of the two grey wires and turn the ignition on. If the wire I cut was to the tach the right blinker will still work and that's the wire I need and I can repair the wire and connect the safety switch to it. If the wire I cut was the one going to the right blinker, the blinker wont work and than I can repair it and then connect the green wire from the safety switch to the other grey wire.
Seeing as now you are pulling your power for the fuel pump off your starter circuit (plenty of power there) and now all you need is a switched power leg....why not use your green plug as your switched power?
That would be much easier than the start/stop switch.
After all....that's what started this discussion.
Thanks Pat, if the green plug only gets power when the "RUN" switch is on then I guess that would work, is there a way I can confirm that? If that works I think I'm good with everything else I have to do. would it just be a matter of hooking up the two wires for the green plug to something like a light and if it illuminates when the run switch is on but not any other time I should be ok I think.
Assuming I don't use the green plug for california evap and instead wire per the instructions, what I'm unclear about is how I connect the red wire to the fuse box with the female connector and how that would be operated by the "RUN" switch.
Regarding the two grey wires and my need to tap into the one for the tachometer, I'm thinking rather than tap into one of the two wires from the plug I can just tap into the single grey wire that comes from the coil to the plug before that wire splits into two grey wires. Does that make sense.
I'm pretty sure the green plug has power even when the run switch is OFF because I turned the ignition on and had the RUN switch off and stuck the two wires from the fuel pump in the green plug and the fuel pump kicked on.
I guess I could still use it because the safety switch wouldn't turn the pump on until the TACH is showing the engine is on, right?
So if I connect the red wire from the fuel safety switch to the positive wire on the green plug would I just leave the ground wire in the plug not connected to anything? I was going going to run the black ground wire of the safety switch directly to the frame but could I run it to the green plug? Or should I run the ground wire from the fuel pump to the ground on the green plug?
The aftermarket safety switch works just like the Yamaha oem safety switch used on the fuel pump FJ's.
When you turn your key on, the safety switch senses power from your green plug (before the engine starts and generates a tach signal) the safety switch turns on power to the fuel pump for only 3 to 5 seconds...then stops.
If you need to prime your carbs you may need to turn your key on and off a couple of times to fill your carb fuel bowls.
When the engine starts the safety switch senses a tach signal and as long as the safety switch senses a tach signal, the fuel pump stays powered.
When the key is turned off, power is off, the safety switch shuts off power to the pump.
Here's the safety part of the safety switch....
Even with the key on....when the safety switch senses a stop in the tach signal like the engine stalled, or you were in an accident, the safety switch only runs the fuel pump for 3 to 5 seconds before it automatically shuts if off.
Hope this helps.
Pat
Thanks for the explanation pat!
Sorry, I forgot to mention...
Yes, use the switched 12v power and the ground from your green plug.
Finally did it. Installed the fuel pump and safety switch on my 86 converting it from gravity fed to fuel pump. I did utilize the green plug for the California Evap and it worked nicely. I took it for a 5 mile ride and no issues but it started to rain so I went home. I may make a post about the fuel pump mod for others who are interested after I have a bit more miles on it.
Is there a proper way to route the fuel lines for a fuel pump? or does it not matter on a fuel pump model?
Pat, thanks for your suggestion on the safety switch it really wasn't too bad to figure out.
Good deal, that green plug worked!
Having the safety switch pull the 12v power for the fuel pump directly from the starter circuit meant we didn't have to worry about pulling to many amps on the green plug circuit.
Congrats....You now have a real fuel filter to keep your carbs clean. Something we can't run with the oem gravity flow systems.
Alas, our gas tanks aren't getting any younger and as the title a great Neil Young album states: Rust Never Sleeps....
Putting your pictures together with commentary and saving this over in our Modifications Files will be of great help to your FJ brothers.
Cheers. Pat