My clutch is slipping if I feed it all the onions like Derek from Vice Grip Garage says.
I decided to upgrade to the Barnett coil spring diaphragm but can't find the torque specs for the bolts..
Are they the same as the specs for the factory bolts?
I imagine stock is a good number.
I'll bet you can find an answer here - https://fjowners.com/index.php?board=51.0
Quote from: fj1289 on April 30, 2024, 08:44:37 PMI imagine stock is a good number.
I'll bet you can find an answer here - https://fjowners.com/index.php?board=51.0
thank you.
I keep forgetting about the files forum.. :Facepalm:
Torque is generally based on the strength of the fastener (not always). An 8.8 grade bolt of the same thread pitch will have the same torque regardless of what is getting fastened.
I have updates. Just tried to go for a ride and when I put it in gear it jumped ahead and quit..so thee clutch isn't disengaging.
I upgraded to the Barnett spring plate and went with new EBC friction disks.
Everything is torqued to spec. I'm wondering if the ebc clutch disks are to thick..
Which brings me to this...these are the old disks..they all look like this.
I've never messed with a bike clutch before but these do not look worn out to me.
(https://i.imgur.com/AsRlN0pl.jpg)
How thick are your old fiber plates?
Those clutch frictions look good. You can see the cork in the surface.
The question is, did you remove the last disk that is retained behind a clutch steel floater?
If yes, was the disc replaced with a larger ID disc like came out?
Was the dampening spring and wear plate removed?
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on May 08, 2024, 02:45:56 PMThose clutch frictions look good. You can see the cork in the surface.
The question is, did you remove the last disk that is retained behind a clutch steel floater?
If yes, was the disc replaced with a larger ID disc like came out?
Was the dampening spring and wear plate removed?
Randy - RPM
the last disk I took out was the one with a smaller friction surface. I replaced it with the same style.
I removed the thin wire that is used during assembly to hold the first disk and plate.
If the damping spring and wear plate are #'s 14 and 15 yes I left from #12 to #15 out.
(https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/yamaha-fj1200-1986-usa-clutch_bigyau0038c-5_3f85.gif)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 08, 2024, 02:36:21 PMHow thick are your old fiber plates?
I didn't mic them but I will tomorrow. The friction surface is very thin but looks even on both sides
I'm referring to 4 & 5.
Those can be removed and a full size friction can be installed.
If a full size friction is installed on top of those parts it will not disengage.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on May 08, 2024, 10:07:37 PMI'm referring to 4 & 5.
Those can be removed and a full size friction can be installed.
If a full size friction is installed on top of those parts it will not disengage.
Randy - RPM
I left those there and put in the "half size" disk like the one that came out.
I was careful removing the old ones. Laid them out as they came out and made sure I put the new ones in the same way.
I'm going to take them out and see if I missed something and mic the stack to see if it's thicker then the old ones by a considerable margin.
ok. I removed the ebc clutch pack, miced them and the original ones are less than a 1/16 of an inch thicker than the ebc ones. So that isn't the problem.
I can't find any info regarding the torque specs for the barnett pressure plate so I went with the yamaha specs..
I'm wondering now if I need to remove either 4 or 5 from the exploded diagram..
I have updates..
Someone made sure he cleaned the old oil of the metal disks before he put it back together.
This caused them to stick to the friction disks.. :dash2:
I drowned everything in oil and that fixed it.
What a difference. It shifts like a totally different bike and pulls away from a stop like it should.
before the clutch sometimes wouldn't engage fast enough so I'd be moving very slow but revving quite high.
Now it's right there