Finally have a FJ1200 a 1990 beautiful dark blue with some minor cracked plastic. Have admired them since the FJ1100 came out. Kids are grown so no more reasons not to start riding again. Only draw back on this bike is the chain, almost went for a FJR1300 for the shaft drive, but the desire always went back to the FJ1200 so I guess I will learn to maintain the chain. Started riding dirt bikes as a kid, then street bikes, have ridden coast to coast and am looking forward to doing that and much more on the FJ1200. but before riding this beast on the road I need to bring my street skills back up with a safety course. Really looking forward to riding the roads again.
Cheers
Welcome to the FJ world. The plastics are fixable, the bike easy to work on. Big plus on the safety course, keep the rubber side down.
Welcome to the Forum :hi:
Chain technology has come along ways since the FJ was 1st introduced. A modern, high end chain will easily do 20,000 miles with proper maintenance.
All of my bikes use a 530 chain. My go to chain is the EK brand 530 Z3D. It has one of the highest tensile strength ratings and the mileage longevity is there.
The 1st photo is an add photo, 2nd photo is a EK530 Z3D on my Streetfighter 1200
Fred
Welcome! I hear you on the chain concerns. What I have learned thru the years is that FJ's are hard on chains, *so buy a top quality chain* After the initial break in, I have found very little stretch thru the life of the chain. I use the DID ZVM chain and I can get 40-50k miles. I replace both my sprockets and chain at the same time. I run my chains on the loose side of adjustment. A loose chain is a happy chain.
Cheers. Pat
I'm with Pat 100% on this - my chains last 40,000 miles with only occasional cleaning and regular spray-on lubrication (GT85). Hardly ever need adjustment after initial break in........and I don't always ride slowly !!!!!
Quote from: aviationfred on December 22, 2023, 08:52:01 PMWelcome to the Forum :hi:
Chain technology has come along ways since the FJ was 1st introduced. A modern, high end chain will easily do 20,000 miles with proper maintenance.
All of my bikes use a 530 chain. My go to chain is the EK brand 530 Z3D. It has one of the highest tensile strength ratings and the mileage longevity is there.
The 1st photo is an add photo, 2nd photo is a EK530 Z3D on my Streetfighter 1200
Fred
Hi Fred. Where did you find the chain guard?
Riding,
Welcome to the madhouse. :biggrin: These days, you can get O-ring and X-ring chains. They ride long and hard. Replace the sprockets with the new chain, as noted above. The take-offs will be backups for you. RPM owns this forum, and it's a great source for FJ-specific parts and accessories. We can also out-source many parts that will keep you rolling. This link is for the California model, and there is a similar page for the non-CA bikes. Several on-line FJ shops have these Parts Fiches:
FJ1200 parts (https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/yam/50042f31f8700209bc78a6a0/1990-fj1200ac-parts)
Keep us posted. We like pix.
Quote from: Chainlube on March 25, 2024, 12:11:56 PMQuote from: aviationfred on December 22, 2023, 08:52:01 PMWelcome to the Forum :hi:
Hi Fred. Where did you find the chain guard?
Sorry for the delay in response. I got the chain guard from an FJ owner in The Netherlands. Sadly he passed away a few years ago.
Fred
I wasn't able to find an answer in the service or owner manuals I've downloaded but I was wondering do I replace the chain with one that has 120 or 150 links? also how many teeth on the rear sprocket are yall running?
The 120 is plenty long enough.my chain length was 110 links for the stock 17 and 42 tooth set up of the fj1100. I just put new sprockets on that are 18 and 40 tooth sprockets and my chain length is still 110 links. Im not sure but i think with the 18 tooth primary sprocket and a rear sprocket with less teeth than 40 you would have to drop down to a 109 link chain.
Quote from: T Legg on January 27, 2025, 01:05:39 AMThe 120 is plenty long enough.my chain length was 110 links for the stock 17 and 42 tooth set up of the fj1100. I just put new sprockets on that are 18 and 40 tooth sprockets and my chain length is still 110 links. Im not sure but i think with the 18 tooth primary sprocket and a rear sprocket with less teeth than 40 you would have to drop down to a 109 link chain.
No need to drop down Travis - i run 18 front and 38 rear sprockets, with the stock length 110 chain and the axle sits nicely in the adjustment slot range as new. If the bike was fitted with 18 and 40, or 18 and 41, I might consider going for an extra link or two.
Riding Again - stick with a stock 110 chain and go for 18 and 38 sprockets would be my advice for a 1990 (3CV) 1200, unless you're a stoplight drag-racer.
Thanks yall,
I've been browsing rpm looking at their sprockets and I'll definitely take what yall are running into consideration. I'm used to my shaft driven XVS LOL so this'll be my first time tuning the driveline on a bike. Personally I would like to tune more the low end. I plan on spending most of my time on the backroads instead of the highway so I feel like that's the direction I should lean towards. They do have a 38 rear and 18 front so I'll probably grab that.
Take care yall until next time.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=669.0
This is a link to a chart that shows the relationship of rpm to mph for different sprocket and tire combinations.
wow was I backwards :biggrin: thanks for the save man
No one mentioned that you should get a rivet link design, and a tool to install it (I use a DID tool). Not many things can ruin your day like a chain failure and a ruined engine case.
Thats a very good point. I have ruined an engine on one of my fj1100's due to chain failure.
The choice of tools is important too. Ive tried a motion pro tool and it was worthless. I tried a stockton tool version and it was much sturdier but failed on the second chain I used it on during the riveting process. I will try the DID version next time I do a chain.
Quote from: T Legg on January 28, 2025, 09:27:02 AMThats a very good point. I have ruined an engine on one of my fj1100's due to chain failure.
The choice of tools is important too. Ive tried a motion pro tool and it was worthless. I tried a stockton tool version and it was much sturdier but failed on the second chain I used it on during the riveting process. I will try the DID version next time I do a chain.
I have been a professional motorcycle mechanic for over 35 years, and I will swear by Motion Pro's PBR chain tool. I have been using for several years on customer bikes, roadracers bikes as well as my own. It is an awesome tool. Note that I do not use it to break a chain. I use a cutting wheel to grind down a couple of pins and a chisel to pry off that plate. Easy Peasy. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on January 27, 2025, 08:08:35 PMThanks yall,
I've been browsing rpm looking at their sprockets and I'll definitely take what yall are running into consideration. I'm used to my shaft driven XVS LOL so this'll be my first time tuning the driveline on a bike. Personally I would like to tune more the low end. I plan on spending most of my time on the backroads instead of the highway so I feel like that's the direction I should lean towards. They do have a 38 rear and 18 front so I'll probably grab that.
Take care yall until next time.
I would still ride a 18/38 or 18/39 combo The cruising RPM is much more acceptable and the bike has more than enough torque to pull the taller gear ratio.
And as others have said get a good chain. The forum has seen it's fair share of broken cheaper chains and smashed up crankcases over the years. We use and sell the DID chain rivet/breaker tool, we also sell the Motion pro tool.
Quote from: T Legg on January 28, 2025, 09:27:02 AMThe choice of tools is important too. . . I tried a stockton tool version and it was much sturdier but failed on the second chain I used it on during the riveting process. I will try the DID version next time I do a chain.
T Legg,
Never saw a chain tool fail like that before. Either chain pins are much tougher now, or the tool is made from the wrong grade of steel. Most bike chains are not as tough as the FJ chain.
I could see grinding the riveted head of a chain pin flush with the chain plate, before using the chain-breaker tool on the pin head that you just ground flush.
I could also see using a C-clamp to keep the ends of the tool from spreading like that, before using any force on the tool screw-pin.
Let us know if the DID tool does the job.
Love my DID tool....been using it for many years. In trying to push out a pin, I managed to break the tool's press pin by not understanding the index marks.
Buy a couple extra tool pins to keep in the case.
The stockton tool had no problem punching out the old rivet's ( I do grind the head off the old rivet first) the failure happened while riveting the new link. The T handle threads into a hole drilled into the middle of the tool and that created the weak spot where the tool bent.
I bad mouthed motion pros tool but I had a cheaper version than the one chainlube is using. The tool I had looked almost the same as the stockton tool. That tool also failed during riveting but on that tool the anvil that supports the back of the pin being riveted gave way and the pin I was trying to rivet was driven right through it.
The motion pro pbr tool looks very different.Ive never used one of those. I like that the did tool handle is on the end not in the middle like on the stockton tool but I haven't used one of those either
I gave up trying to push the pins out on a chain. I cut the old chain off now...quicker and less likely to cause swear words. When resetting the new rivets it's not necessary to squash the living daylights out of the new pins....
We also cut them off with a die grinder. Takes all of 10 seconds and since we won't be re using any part of the chain on these things no need to save anything.
Right on!
I was planning on grabbing that chain Fred had initially linked/mentioned. I've already seen enough videos of chain failures to know too stay away from cheap parts.
Also thank you Robert! Honestly everyone's input saves me a lot of time with narrowing things out. I'll grab the chain tool at the same time as the sprockets.
We sell and use the DID chain and have never had a problem with them. The EK chain is also a very good chain both are rated for over 10,000lbs of tensile strength and the EK is a touch stronger even.
If you are getting the 120 chain though, I believe you will need to push pins out so you can get the length correct.
The DID we sell is already 110 links and the proper length.
Coming back to this real quick, what size/type cotter pin do I use?
As a side note, does anyone know what size C clip I would need for my shifter shaft? Mine is being held on by baling wire (not pictured) from the PO
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on February 05, 2025, 08:02:05 PMComing back to this real quick, what size/type cotter pin do I use?
As a side note, does anyone know what size C clip I would need for my shifter shaft? Mine is being held on by baling wire (not pictured) from the PO
The circlip is available from Yamaha $2.50
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/99009-12400-00
Don't know what cotter pin you're referring to...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 06, 2025, 08:34:53 AMDon't know what cotter pin you're referring to...
Chain related, I think the cotter pin is for the rear axle nut retainer.
yeah my bad for the confusion, but that would be it!
Reason I asked about the size was so that I could get it at Ace rather than waiting for shipping. Not to mention the cost in shipping is more than the clip itself :lol:
Ace should have cotter pins - just get one (or a bag full?) that are long enough to pass all the way through. I've even seen a nail used before ... not right - but better than nothing!
I can measure later tonight. Or you can go to Mcmaster.com and then search for Hairpin. One or more of the sizes listed will fit. The pin diameter has to fit through the axle. Beyond that, it needs to not fall off. Corrosion resistant is nice as well.
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on February 06, 2025, 06:49:00 PMyeah my bad for the confusion, but that would be it!
I've got 4mm x 40mm cotter pins for rear axle nut on my 1100, bought a pack of 10 because that's how they came.
The pin on my 89' is 3.2mm wire diameter. Overall length is 65.5mm. Big opening is 14mm in diameter. It may not be OEM but it fits and works.
thanks yall!
I'll be running by Ace soon to pick a pack of them up today.
I finally read your introduction. Glad you didn't go for the fjr1300. My brother and his wife rode one of my fjs with me in the smokeys. And she was on a mission. Asked everyone she could at the gas stations. What bike they liked best. And bought one online while they drove home. They got an fjr. I rode it a couple of times it's extremely smooth handles great and has power. But I felt too disconnected from the pavement. The guys on the fjr forum call them super sonic sofas.
It's a good bike for my brother because of his bad back.
Welcome to the madness....I too ride very slow.
Gearing, well, how about oil next?
;)
Seriously, cracked plastics, I've fallen in love with my hot stapler and JB Plastic Weld