Hi everyone,
I have owned a 36Y since the last year that I have rided for about 10.000km though France, the Swiss Alps, and German Black Forest.
Since this year, she have a friend just like her that I'm curently trying to save.
I will add infos and post some photos later
;)
Volto,
Welcome to the FJ Forum! Pull up a seat, and be among friends.
Yes, please keep us posted on the restoration work.
There is a lot of experience available here, if you need advice.
Welcome, looking forward to seeing your updates.
Welcome to the Forum :hi:
Fred
Welcome to the group Volto - looking forward to photographs of the bikes and news of the progress :good2:
Welcome!
I thought that I'll be able to modify my first post, but I haven't found the modify button so...
There are the photos of the fleet !
'84 FJ1100 36Y (x2 : blue/grey & red/white)
'86 XT600 43F
'97 T595 Daytona
(The Guzzi Breva isn't mine)
For the moment, the there's only the R/W 36Y in running order... There is 2 old cars, an old house and a used cat that needs attentions too ^^'
Work status :
* Braking : constant but a bit soft (doesn't leak), masters cylinders paint went off.
- Changing to aviation type line.
- Repaint all the parts.
* Suspension : front plunge and "clonk" into hard breaking, feeling of asymetry or induced steering while breaking, right preload locked up.
- Oil fork change ;
- Anti-dive rebuild (I want to try to make it work for the moment) ;
- Forks caps rebuild ;
- Lose some weight. Bike and driver. Mostly driver... (not far from 350kg combined in running order)
* Chassis : feel some sort of play just after entering a bend.
- Checking the tighting of all the nuts and bolts ;
- Rear wheel alignment ;
- Front wheel and fork bearings (rear ones changed).
* Engine & Drive : Add ~1l of oil every at refuel (no leaks, no blue smoke), microcuts during hard pulls, upshifts misses, holes in power delivery.
- Change oil plugs and O-rings ;
- Change pistons rings ;
- Check killer switch ;
- Shifter kit (axe and spring) from RPM brought ;
- Air box deleted, carbs tuning (jets & needles to upgrade), check valves clearance.
* Electrical : turn signals "delete", hard to start in cold, "ticking" noise upfront.
- Home made rear light with build-in turning lights ;
- Li-Ion battery (power, weight & size savings are mind-blowing !!!)
- Checking ignition relays
* Bodywork : some rust patches, cracks and paint scratches, seat is slippy.
- Derusted and repainted the seat scaffolding (battery acid spill) ;
- Side fairings, under skirt and front cover cracks stitched ;
- Not sure if I'll repainted it... I like patina.
- New alcantara confort seat ordered !
That's all for now ^^
Volto,
Speedbleeders.com can make brake bleeding into an easy one-person job.
RPM (our host here) https://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39 (https://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=39)
can supply banjo bolts with bleed screws, for the handlebar master cylinders.
Always use new hydraulic washers there.
Any decent hydraulic shop can make new stainless-steel braided brake hoses for you, or you can buy tailored sets. RPM sells the Spiegler brake line and clutch line kits.
Specify hydraulic hoses with pivoting ends. Normal hose ends will not twist to fit.
Not sure what turn signal "delete" may mean. The FJ1100 has self-cancelling turn signals, which cancel by time or distance limits.
Check the rear swing arm for bad pivots. Bushings and bearings are available.
RPM has suspension parts (fork cartridges, rear shock). Forget the anti-dive junk.
As you continue, we may have better advice to help. Keep us posted.
Front end clunk = sacked out fork springs.
Best: RPM fork valves and new .85kg/mm springs.
Minimum: New progressive fork springs.
If the bushings in your 84/85 swing arm linkage are toast, they are no longer available to buy, you will have to 1) make new bushings or 2) drill out your 84/85 linkage to fit the needle bearings used in the later 86/87 swingarm linkage (new needle bearings still available) or 3) install some used 86/87 linkage which already has needle bearings installed.
Hi red, Pat,
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
Speedbleeders.com can make brake bleeding into an easy one-person job.
Personnaly I just open the filler cap, fit a clear, hose to the bleeder and let it drip, adding fluid at the top.
The hose diameter must be small enough to keep the surface tension of the fuild from breaking, which prevent air bubbles to go up.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
RPM (our host here) can supply banjo bolts with bleed screws, for the handlebar master cylinders.
RPM sells the Spiegler brake line and clutch line kits.
Specify hydraulic hoses with pivoting ends. Normal hose ends will not twist to fit.
I took the Spiegler ones at RPM so must not have issues with that.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
Not sure what turn signal "delete" may mean.
It's more get rid of thoses 4 fly swatters with something that doesn't look too modern.
For the rear I have put LED brake/signals light inside an original housing and used the same connectors to be able to switch back to the genuine ones.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
Check the rear swing arm for bad pivots. Bushings and bearings are available.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 19, 2023, 09:27:41 AM
If the bushings in your 84/85 swing arm linkage are toast, they are no longer available to buy.
Didn't thought of that... It can explain the bend I feel in the frame. I'll check, thanks !
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
RPM has suspension parts (fork cartridges, rear shock).
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 19, 2023, 09:27:41 AM
Best: RPM fork valves and new .85kg/mm springs.
I hesitated to get them in my order but it was already a good budget...
Plus the 200$ shipping cost & customs fees ! =S
Is it always so expensive ?
Quote from: Volto on June 21, 2023, 06:35:41 AM
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
RPM (our host here) can supply banjo bolts with bleed screws, for the handlebar master cylinders.
RPM sells the Spiegler brake line and clutch line kits.
Specify hydraulic hoses with pivoting ends. Normal hose ends will not twist to fit.
I took the Spiegler ones at RPM so must not have issues with that.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
RPM has suspension parts (fork cartridges, rear shock).
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 19, 2023, 09:27:41 AM
Best: RPM fork valves and new .85kg/mm springs.
I hesitated to get them in my order but it was already a good budget...
Plus the 200$ shipping cost & customs fees ! =S
Is it always so expensive ?
All of the Spiegler kits we sell have adjustable ends to clock.
Unfortunately, international shipping is getting pretty bad. Time wise they are doing great your last order left June 5th and was delivered in France to you on June 9th.
Cost wise not so much, we just got two engine guard sets from the UK and it was $250 USD in shipping.
Also, as should be noted, we adjust the "total" below $30 USD to help with customs fees. Unless you showed them your original invoice duties should have been negligible.
And with the vintage black hoses, they really look like the genuine ones. Nice !
Really fast shipping indeed ! But holy golden bollocks, the cost ! Is it Amazon/Alibaba completely flooding the shipping industry that they have to pump up the prices of all the other senders ?!
And French customs guys opened the package (got a nice ribbon on it) and must have set the value up because it was 55€ fees. Meh ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Anyway. I have what I need for the carbs, the brakes and the shifter for now. It's gonna take me some time to up all of these on !
(And beside that I have to create my bathroom before next winter. 2 seasons of showers in an unheated room are enough !)
The vintage black does look very good. We just finished up a bike here and used thoe.
Amazon, along with the cost of fuel, minimum wage increases, which in turn increases all other pay scales and CoGs, etc, etc.
Odd. We only include a packing slip with no prices for parts on the inside of the package. On the outside on the customs form we keep it under $30 USD, in an effort to squeeze every cent from you maybe they went to the website and searched the packing slip or just took a random stab at what they thought it would cost.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on June 21, 2023, 01:33:33 PM
maybe they went to the website and searched the packing slip or just took a random stab at what they thought it would cost.
Haha, French officials knows how to find money, but only where there isn't much. We call it "le flair" !
Bref...
Quote from: RPM - Robert on June 21, 2023, 01:33:33 PM
The vintage black does look very good. We just finished up a bike here and used thoe.
I have put them on mine but, the anti-dive ones are a bit short. Well no really, because the allover length is the same than the genuine ones and the banjos have roughly the same bend, but the clamping length is longer on the new ones. This make the hoses that a longer route (see the pictures).
In other news, I have switched the forks and the strange feeling while riding is gone ! I now have to find what is it.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 19, 2023, 09:27:41 AM
Front end clunk = sacked out fork springs.
I will check them, and the fork internal seals... Maybe I'll find a got reason to take the RPM fork valves ;)
Oh ! and look at that space gained with li-ion battery and the dual-pods ! (⊙_☉)
The ends on all the spiegler kits are clickable with those little blue tools that came with it. You should be able to position it and make it work.
Also, when upgrading to the RPM fork valves you will be disabling the anti dove so you won't need those lines anyways.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on July 03, 2023, 09:20:56 PM
The ends on all the spiegler kits are clickable with those little blue tools that came with it. You should be able to position it and make it work.
Yes, these are for twisting the banjos on the hose axis, but the problem here is the bend of the banjo itself.
I'll try to reach Spiegler to see if they have a solution for me and maybe modify the kit.
Yea maybe a bit more angle from the actually fitting would be better.
Disabling the anti dive, even without changing springs or anything else, will improve the squishiness in the front. It is well documented here. Take the single banjo from the anti dive unit and remove the lines from the caliper. Reinstall the single banjo where the double banjo was with just the brake line.
There is actually a company that sells bypass anti dive blocks. Blast from the past or something like that, I think they are out of Canada.
Volto,
Here is a version of the anti-dive block-off plates. There are others, or you can make them yourself from thick metal. There must be a tube or channel to allow fork oil from the top hole to the bottom hole of the anti-dive system; otherwise, the forks would lock (no suspension), which is how the anti-dive system is supposed to work, when brakes are applied. It was a good plan, but not practical.
https://www.fastfromthepast.com/dadbpp-rz5c (https://www.fastfromthepast.com/dadbpp-rz5c)
I did less, on my FJ. I dis-assembled each anti-dive gadget, and inverted the bottom part (discarding the top part). I capped the empty hole in each gadget end with black plastic caps, but that is not necessary. Maybe not quite as sleek as it could be, but it does the job at no cost. I ran the long brake hose (that once went to the anti-dive gadget) straight to the brake caliper instead.
Thanks Red. That was the company I was thinking of.
Quote from: Volto on June 21, 2023, 06:35:41 AM
Hi red, Pat,
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
Speedbleeders.com can make brake bleeding into an easy one-person job.
Personnaly I just open the filler cap, fit a clear, hose to the bleeder and let it drip, adding fluid at the top.
The hose diameter must be small enough to keep the surface tension of the fuild from breaking, which prevent air bubbles to go up.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
RPM (our host here) can supply banjo bolts with bleed screws, for the handlebar master cylinders.
RPM sells the Spiegler brake line and clutch line kits.
Specify hydraulic hoses with pivoting ends. Normal hose ends will not twist to fit.
I took the Spiegler ones at RPM so must not have issues with that.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
Not sure what turn signal "delete" may mean.
It's more get rid of thoses 4 fly swatters with something that doesn't look too modern.
For the rear I have put LED brake/signals light inside an original housing and used the same connectors to be able to switch back to the genuine ones.
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
Check the rear swing arm for bad pivots. Bushings and bearings are available.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 19, 2023, 09:27:41 AM
If the bushings in your 84/85 swing arm linkage are toast, they are no longer available to buy.
Didn't thought of that... It can explain the bend I feel in the frame. I'll check, thanks !
Quote from: red on June 19, 2023, 08:43:17 AM
RPM has suspension parts (fork cartridges, rear shock).
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 19, 2023, 09:27:41 AM
Best: RPM fork valves and new .85kg/mm springs.
I hesitated to get them in my order but it was already a good budget...
Plus the 200$ shipping cost & customs fees ! =S
Is it always so expensive ?
I've just picked on this Volto but ...PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, get rid of those turn signal indicators INSIDE your brake/tail light, they are SO DANGEROUS - they make it basically impossible for drivers to see if you are indicating when you are braking (which you do most of the time you are indicating, unless it is to overtake) and they also make it almost impossible for a driver behind you to know which way you are wanting to (going to) turn...because they are on the centre line of your bike.
They are scarily dangerous and are banned from use in the UK because of accidents involving them.
I also have a personal hatred of them since one of my friends was paralysed and his wife was killed, when they were braking and indicating to make a turn and a car behind didn't see the indicator and tried to overtake them just as they turned. They were hit from behind and his wife was sent onto the opposite carriageway and got hit by a truck. Steve was paralysed in the accident from the waist down.
They are called turn signal "indicators" for a reason....to let other drivers/riders know which way you are going to turn. Putting them inside the tail-light is (pardon my language) just stupid and it stops them from indicating anything meaningful to anyone behind.
Ride safe buddy and live long :good2: