When I purchased my 89 there were some fuel issues. Long story short, a previous owner removed the fuel pump and kept the fuel filter. My temporary solution (for the last year) of removing the fuel filter got the bike running and I put off a permanent fix. In talking with giantkiller last week, he heavily suggested putting one back in. Made it to the short list of things to do. Then today I went to the garage for something and smelled gas around my bike; that put it right at the top of my short list. A few questions before I dive in and start buying parts:
1) I drained the oil right away but there doesn't seem to be any gas, it doesn't look like much leaked period but there was some gas pooled above the clutch cover. I just changed the oil last week so I don't want to toss it if I don't have to; can I reuse the oil or should I change it regardless? I'm cheap but I'm not "ruin my stuff" cheap
2) As far as the pump goes, I was considering looking for an R6 pump as mentioned in the files section. Does anyone have an off the shelf solution for the pump bracket?
3) Last, my carbs. I've got rs36's set up essentially as shipped; 130 mains, 17.5 pilot jet, middle position needle clip, 17mm float height, pilots 1.5 turns out, 2.8mm needle seats. Do I still need to replace the needle seats like for the stock carbs?
I'd appreciate any suggestions/recommendations anyone might have.
Read my thread a few posts down on this page:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.135
And also read this thread:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=20096.0
I didn't change my oil.
Thanks for the reply. I'll use the oil; it looks clean, smells like oil rather than gas and my level didn't go up. It was really a small amount of gas that was resting by the clutch cover from number 4. One correction on my pump plans: I ordered the YZF600 pump; not the R6. Per this thread https://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1147.0 (https://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1147.0)
Also, any way someone could move this thread to the Project Write-ups section? I'm realizing I should just keep a thread going with everything I'm doing and maybe I'll be more inclined to post my updates more often. The easier I can make it for myself the more likely I am to follow through. Otherwise I can start a new thread too.
My original plan today was to check out my clutch as it slipped the other day. Tonight I'll be taking it apart and measuring friction thicknesses.
Quote from: melloncollie on June 20, 2022, 09:05:23 PM
Also, any way someone could move this thread to the Project Write-ups section? I'm realizing I should just keep a thread going with everything I'm doing and maybe I'll be more inclined to post my updates more often.
Done
Cool, thanks Pat.
Pulled the clutch discs last night, friction and steels were all right around .117 and .077 respectively.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_21_06_22_12_45_04_0.jpeg)
Tried using a granite cutting board to measure warpage but I doubted its flatness. Later tried the glass stove top which seemed more accurate. I don't think I have anything verify flatness of the granite or stove but the steels passed on both surfaces. The spring looks to be out of spec; do I need to be concerned with warpage if I'm doubling the spring? Free height was within spec.
Nothing that looked like glazing or heat to me, steels and friction will be going back in.
I thought I had, but couldn't find, a 32mm socket for the nut so I stopped there for the night. Planning on getting a second oe spring, the RPM detent kit, and another full size friction in place of one of the narrows.
Good thing I got the axle socket rental tool from my local auto parts store, its a 30mm not a 32mm like I thought. The kit includes both. Went to order a few parts from RPM and much to my chagrin the shift detent kit that was in stock just yesterday was no longer in stock. After a quick phone call, RPM somehow manged to conjure one up; many thanks again for making that happen. Also got the answer to a question I asked earlier in the thread: warpage is not an issue when doubling the oe spring.
Now the waiting game. On order is the shift detent kit, wide friction disc, oe spring, and some odds & ends. Also the YZF600 fuel pump from ebay. Still wondering if I need to change the needle seats when adding a fuel pump to the Mikuni RS flatslides. My guess is no because there's no mention of it in the install booklet and no mention of any year difference in any of the RS literature. Can anyone confirm that line of thought is correct?
That is a good question.
I've seen the RS flat slides on fuel pumpers and gravity flow FJ's, wonder if there's a difference?
I know for sure you need the small needle seats on the FJ's CV carbs with fuel pumps.....you will flood your fuel bowls if you use the larger gravity flow needle seats with a fuel pump.
(https://i.postimg.cc/G28kq1YS/carb-seat-001.jpg)
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0
You definitely need the smaller float valves to run the flat slides with a pump. I had to change mine from gravity fed to the pump fed valves.
I'm fairly sure that the CV carb float valves will fit the flat slides but I will check mine and get back to you ASAP.
Regards, Pete.
The literature that came with my RS flatslides says nothing about using them with a fuel pump and there is only one needle valve assembly shown for 34,36,38,&40 mm carbs. I have only seen them on gravity fed bikes but there must be a solution if people are running them with pumps .
Here are pictures of an RS needle valve and an FJ gravity fed needle valve side by side . They are similar but have different length dimensions. Maybe they could work I've never tried . The new needle valve is OEM FJ .
Maybe that's why the previous owner took off the fuel pump. :pardon:
Just checked my RS 38's and I used 1.5mm float needle and seats from the CV's.
I did a bunch of research today including reading through everyone's replies, thanks everyone. Ended up calling Sudco, I guess I should have started there. The call lasted all of a minute and I had my answer. For fuel pump models Sudco recommends a 2.0 mm needle seat. P/N N149/040-2.0 which I should have by the weekend hopefully.
Quote from: giantkiller on June 22, 2022, 02:36:00 AM
Maybe that's why the previous owner took off the fuel pump. :pardon:
Thats a good point. Maybe they were flooding with the larger seat and the p.o. thought the pump wasn't shutting off when it was supposed to.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 21, 2022, 09:50:50 PM
I know for sure you need the small needle seats on the FJ's CV carbs with fuel pumps.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0
That thread is what tipped me off to needing something other than what I've got. Glad it was there to get me pointed in the right direction.
Quote from: oldktmdude on June 22, 2022, 05:52:52 AM
Just checked my RS 38's and I used 1.5mm float needle and seats from the CV's.
Thanks for checking that out for me, its much appreciated. For now I'll go with the 2.0 Mikuni lists for the flatslides and if there's any issue I know that'll be an option in the future. If I had any from an old set I'd use those but since the bike came with flatslides all I've got laying around is for flatslides.
Quote from: T Legg on June 22, 2022, 12:08:49 AM
The literature that came with my RS flatslides says nothing about using them with a fuel pump and there is only one needle valve assembly shown for 34,36,38,&40 mm carbs. I have only seen them on gravity fed bikes but there must be a solution if people are running them with pumps .
Here are pictures of an RS needle valve and an FJ gravity fed needle valve side by side . They are similar but have different length dimensions. Maybe they could work I've never tried . The new needle valve is OEM FJ .
Yeah, the booklet it ships with is pretty bare bones. It does list FJ1200 ALL as the application and just the one number in the exploded view for the needle and seat without much else. I found the Sudco catalog earlier today and it was way more helpful, it lists the 2.8 as standard but gives other options. I love a good catalog.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_22_06_22_10_54_41.png)
Once I've got the fuel pump on and running I'll pool all of my research and tuning guides into one place on the forum for anyone else that may need it.
Sounds like a good add to the files section once you get it sorted. Function first, Dyno to fine tune it.
Don't know what fuel pump they have in mind for you but be sure the fuel pump completely shuts off the flow fuel when the pump is powered off*** ..if it doesn't and you get some dirt or debris under any float needle seat, you will awake one morning and your crankcase will be full of fuel. :bomb:
***....or if the pump does not stop the fuel flow you can always put a 12v inline fuel shutoff solenoid keyed to your ignition switch.
Pretty sure I ran RS36's and RS38's on my 89 with no issues at all with the seats they came with. Same with the FCR's.
I'd try it first and see if there even is a problem before trying to solve a problem that's probably not going to be there!
Quote from: fj1289 on June 23, 2022, 08:34:37 PM
Pretty sure I ran RS36's and RS38's on my 89 with no issues at all with the seats they came with. Same with the FCR's.
I'd try it first and see if there even is a problem before trying to solve a problem that's probably not going to be there!
I have RS38's and they can not hold the pump pressure with the float valves that come standard with them.
Quote from: oldktmdude on June 24, 2022, 06:52:10 AM
Quote from: fj1289 on June 23, 2022, 08:34:37 PM
Pretty sure I ran RS36's and RS38's on my 89 with no issues at all with the seats they came with. Same with the FCR's.
I'd try it first and see if there even is a problem before trying to solve a problem that's probably not going to be there!
I have RS38's and they can not hold the pump pressure with the float valves that come standard with them.
Thanks for clarifying - it's been several years and my memory must be a bit faulty!
I was going to try as is at one point but got talked out of it from everyone's suggestions. The new 2.0 mm seats are in and ready to go.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 22, 2022, 09:15:29 PM
Don't know what fuel pump they have in mind for you but be sure the fuel pump completely shuts off the flow fuel when the pump is powered off*** ..if it doesn't and you get some dirt or debris under any float needle seat, you will awake one morning and your crankcase will be full of fuel. :bomb:
***....or if the pump does not stop the fuel flow you can always put a 12v inline fuel shutoff solenoid keyed to your ignition switch.
I didn't talk specifics with Sudco. The pump I ordered is off a YZF600, used. Buying a used electrical part goes against a lot of what I used to tell my customers; we'll see if it bites me. My understanding (from an old bit of info) was that the YZF600 will be a drop in replacement. I really wanted it to be a brainless solution: buy the pump and plug it in. If it doesn't work out so be it.
Okay, got a few things done in the past few days. I was a little bummed I didn't get everything shipped by the weekend but I forgot our local music festival was going on. So it worked out. I got to see Steve Miller, Modest Mouse, Jason Isbell, Dillon Francis, Steve Aoki, and Violent Femmes; among others.
Some pictures of the needles/seats installed the other day. The RS sets come bare; no o-rings or screens. Mikuni P/N KV/10 for the o-ring and VM18/233 for the screen. I swapped the screens over, no issue there. Figured I'd get new o-rings because I'd be pissed if I broke one and had to wait.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_28_06_22_7_58_27.jpeg)
2.0 Seat
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_28_06_22_7_53_21_2.jpeg)
Pump went in next, off a YZF600. Smelled like not-fresh gas, maybe seafoam? Wasn't sure if that was good or bad. Info for it said 21k miles but it is 20 years old at this point. I was able to use the YZF bracket, bolted right up. It even came with the hardware which was awesome.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_28_06_22_7_53_22_3.jpeg)
The moment of truth: turned the key to prime it and... nothing. Got some alligator clips and put power directly to the pump and it pumped! That's good. Put some gas through it for good measure. Plugged it back in and started going through some troubleshooting in my head until I realized I left my kill switch on. Good thing I didn't get too far. Turned the key again and this time it worked! Filled the carbs and checked for leaks; everything seemed fine. Seems like Dan was on to something; so far everything's working like its supposed to with the smaller seats in. On to the clutch.
Side question: what's the plug shown under the fuel pump? It sits right behind the pump normally, I pulled it out to get it in the picture. Nothing's plugged into it right now.
Clutch and detent kit were straight forward. I had the one new wide disc soaking in oil while I did the pump and detent kit. I ended up taking the shift shaft out to make the detent install easier since I already drained the oil earlier. Everything went as expected except for installing the old spring the first time. Whoops. Pulled it back off and got the new one on.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_28_06_22_8_01_22.jpeg)
My wire clip came out in one piece earlier but I tossed it to the side. Put the friction and steels back in (also removing the narrow inner plate, inner spring, spring seat, and adding the wide disc), doubled the spring, torqued everything down, filled the oil and fired it up. I also installed new exhaust gaskets over the weekend. I think they were leaking because I hastily reused them with my new exhaust this spring. Its better now but I think its still leaking somewhere. My next guess is a slip joint below the bike but we'll see.
First impression: the clutch lever is a lot stiffer with the double spring. And it engages closer to the bars which I'm sure I'll get used to. I figure I'll eventually do something about the heavy lever, but for now it seems okay. That'll be a good excuse for a future project anyway. For now everything works and the weather's beautiful so I'm going for a ride.
Well after 500 miles yesterday and sitting overnight everything still works and nothing's leaking. Clutch lever softened up just a little bit. It shifts better (quicker, smoother) with the detent kit, happy with that purchase. One thing I forgot to mention; I kept my fuel line T when I installed the pump, so two lines going into the carbs. When researching the pump I saw a post (I think from Randy) saying it doesn't matter if the carbs have a single or dual fuel feed. I can't find it for the life of me now. So far it works for me.
Cool. Good to hear.
Dang, seems like I jinxed myself. Briefly left it idling today at the end of my driveway and came back to a wet spot on the ground, gas leak while it was running. Upon further investigation all four carbs pour gas out the overflow on the side stand. When the bike's propped up (no center stand) they remain leak free. Going to take the carbs off tonight to make sure floats aren't hung up and that the seats are free of debris.
Anyone else have thoughts or suggestions on this? When I park in the garage I keep a block of wood under the side stand, so I think that explains why it didn't leak last night.
Yep, check your float needles for junk, look at your filter......did you mention that you have a Kreem coated tank?
If so, you may want to investigate that...
Set your float height to the minimum.
No dice. Carbs looked spotless inside, cleaned them out anyway. There's not really a range for the float height for these, its 17mm +/- 1mm. So I set them to 18mm. Same as before: leaks when on the side stand and not when propped up/level. I'm thinking I'll keep going in the same direction with the float height to see if it eventually stops.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 29, 2022, 08:22:31 PM
Yep, check your float needles for junk, look at your filter......did you mention that you have a Kreem coated tank?
If so, you may want to investigate that...
Set your float height to the minimum.
When you say set to minimum you mean fuel level minimum, float height maximum? More float height, since they're upside down, means less fuel right? Or am I missing something. And no kreem in my tank.
Yes, the minimum float level is the maximum distance measured from the gasket base on the carb body.
Try 1-2 mm lower than spec.....see if that helps.
You have a fuel pump quickly refilling the bowls so I wouldn't be as worried with the lower float level like I would with a slower gravity flow fill.
I'll let the RS experts Travis, Chris and KTM Peter chime in....
I'm having similar issues - spotless carbs but they leak. All new orings and needles. I'm going to try a set of K&L needles.
Have you guys seen this? https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7056.0
(This is applicable to the oem FJ BS36CV's not for the RS flatslides)
As we raise up our rear ends to get more weight on the front tire, the fuel level slightly changes in the bowls. The front edge of the fuel bowl the fuel level is slightly higher and can cover the vent opening in the pick up tube.
This blockage of the vent can contribute to a siphon action happening thru the choke vents.
Drilling this extra vent hole well above the fuel level prevents the vent blockage by fuel and thus breaks the siphon.
That's the idea as I understand it.....
My FJ is mostly stock - but maybe my float level is too high. Could be over the stock vent hole as Randy pointed out.
I have no experience with pressurized fuel but I would bypass the fuel pump and see if they still leak . If they don't I would try the 1.5 mm needle valves that oldktmdude is using .
Quote from: T Legg on July 01, 2022, 04:28:59 PM
I have no experience with pressurized fuel but I would bypass the fuel pump and see if they still leak . If they don't I would try the 1.5 mm needle valves that oldktmdude is using .
Mine leaks overnight with the pump off.
Quote from: Waiex191 on July 01, 2022, 08:43:28 PM
Quote from: T Legg on July 01, 2022, 04:28:59 PM
I have no experience with pressurized fuel but I would bypass the fuel pump and see if they still leak . If they don't I would try the 1.5 mm needle valves that oldktmdude is using .
Mine leaks overnight with the pump off.
If I understand correctly your problem is only when it sits not running overnight and Melloncollie' s RS carbs leak when it is idling on the side stand .
If your fuel pump doesn't stop the flow of gas when it's off then over time even the most minute seepage will accumulate and overflow. The fj models I own all have vacuum actuated fuel petcocks my older bikes have manual petcocks and I always shut them off when I shut the engine off .
Quote from: T Legg on July 01, 2022, 10:59:06 PM
If I understand correctly your problem is only when it sits not running overnight and Melloncollie' s RS carbs leak when it is idling on the side stand .
If your fuel pump doesn't stop the flow of gas when it's off then over time even the most minute seepage will accumulate and overflow. The fj models I own all have vacuum actuated fuel petcocks my older bikes have manual petcocks and I always shut them off when I shut the engine off .
I added a solenoid fuel shutoff, but my bike still runs poorly off idle and has dropped fuel economy. It was good for a year after I got it running again, but something has changed.
One of your new float valves may be bad. It's happened to me before . One of the many nice things about rs carburetors is they have individual overflow tubes making it easy to spot which one is leaking .
Quote from: Waiex191 on July 01, 2022, 08:43:28 PM
Quote from: T Legg on July 01, 2022, 04:28:59 PM
I have no experience with pressurized fuel but I would bypass the fuel pump and see if they still leak . If they don't I would try the 1.5 mm needle valves that oldktmdude is using .
Mine leaks overnight with the pump off.
When your pump is off it should be able to hold back fuel, if not, get another pump or install a 12v shut off solenoid.
So I did a lot of testing and spent way (way) too much time on this. I went in knowing it may not be my solution but could give me some insight. It was fun in a masochistic sort of way. I went through millimeter by millimeter changing the float height, checking for leaks/overflow, and checking actual fuel level with a clear tube until it didn't leak anymore. Ended at 21mm float height and it didn't leak when on the side stand but when flat the fluid level was ~5mm or so lower. I'd feel better about doing all that if I didn't invalidate the results. On one of many reassembles I noticed the seats looked a little off like they weren't seated fully.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_02_07_22_1_56_46.jpeg)
I took them all out, made sure they were wet with gas and re-seated the seats. Set my float height back within spec hoping it was that silly mistake the whole time but they still drip on the side stand when pressurized. Not nearly as much as before, but all four still drip. I won't be able to look at it again until maybe Tuesday so I'll stew on it until then. Thinking I should have just went with the 1.5's like Pete said at the very beginning.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 02, 2022, 12:00:14 AM
When your pump is off it should be able to hold back fuel, if not, get another pump or install a 12v shut off solenoid.
He's got a solenoid in already.
Quote from: Waiex191 on July 01, 2022, 11:24:15 PM
I added a solenoid fuel shutoff, but my bike still runs poorly off idle and has dropped fuel economy. It was good for a year after I got it running again, but something has changed.
Quote from: Waiex191 on July 01, 2022, 01:04:33 PM
My FJ is mostly stock - but maybe my float level is too high. Could be over the stock vent hole as Randy pointed out.
Maybe try what almost worked for me? Verify seats are seated and check o-rings. I re-read through your thread quickly and see you replaced the needles but I didn't see anything about replacing the seat o-rings specifically. Maybe give that a shot if you haven't.
I have my float heights set at the recommended 17mm. I'm also using the R6 fuel pump. Float valve orifice is 1.5mm. My RS38's have never leaked since
I have been using this combination.
I suspect that your leak is due to the residual fuel pressure left in the system after the engine has been turned off. My theory is (purely speculation and have no evidence to back up what I think) but when your bike is on the side-stand, fuel moves to the low side of the float bowls and the higher half of the float loses some of its ability to help shut the float valves off, allowing fuel to slowly bypass and overflow.
Regards, Pete.
Maybe you're on to something. I've got until after the holiday to overthink it too. I'm split between trying to lower the floats again or just biting the bullet with the 1.5's. What's a float set too low/lean show as?
I should point out I haven't tried running it yet with the seats re-seated. I'm guessing that's why it was leaking while running earlier and its fixed now (hopefully). It leaks much less than before. But I'll find out maybe tomorrow if I can get to it before I need to leave for the weekend.
A low float (fuel) level will definitely affect your top end performance. You may not notice it so much down lower in the rev range but it will
run poorly at WOT. I suggest you set your levels back to the recommended 17mm and buy some 1.5mm float valves. It will save you at lot of time and frustration.
Hope you get it sorted soon. You will absolutely love the quicker throttle response and some power increase from your flatslides.
Regards, Pete. :good2:
Quote from: melloncollie on July 02, 2022, 03:27:39 AM
Maybe try what almost worked for me? Verify seats are seated and check o-rings. I re-read through your thread quickly and see you replaced the needles but I didn't see anything about replacing the seat o-rings specifically. Maybe give that a shot if you haven't.
I bought the RPM O-ring kit and new needles. So I definitely replaced those O-rings. I will check to make sure the seats are bottomed though - that is a great thing to check.
I am going to try the new needles I bought and check/reset the float height to the minimum spec. It seems our issues are similar, but not the same. One thing that my bike is doing is running really poorly off of idle. It had been turning on like a 2-stroke at 2000 RPM, however that has crept up to about 2500. Between that, the poor fuel economy, and the overnight leaks before I added the solenoid fuel shutoff, I really suspect the float valves.
Do the floats themselves ever go bad? I've got two sets I think. woodcreekpete sold me a set of parts carbs which were only missing diaphragms.
Hey we are practically neighbors melloncollie. I'm 10 miles south of the Wisconsin border.
Quote from: Waiex191 on July 02, 2022, 10:06:20 AM
I bought the RPM O-ring kit and new needles. So I definitely replaced those O-rings. I will check to make sure the seats are bottomed though - that is a great thing to check.
It seems our issues are similar, but not the same.
Do the floats themselves ever go bad?
Hey we are practically neighbors melloncollie. I'm 10 miles south of the Wisconsin border.
I didn't have any running issues, bike ran great just poured gas all over the ground. Sounds like a solid next step for you. I wouldn't expect floats to go bad but I'm not sure. If I had to guess a failure point it might be they take on gas so you could test by submerging them and check for air bubbles?
Just checked a map, yeah you're pretty close. I ride through Whitewater area pretty often when I'm not leaking gas everywhere. I think its an hour and change freeway ride from my city to yours. If you want to go for a ride sometime shoot me a message.
Quote from: oldktmdude on July 02, 2022, 04:22:36 AM
A low float (fuel) level will definitely affect your top end performance. You may not notice it so much down lower in the rev range but it will
run poorly at WOT. I suggest you set your levels back to the recommended 17mm and buy some 1.5mm float valves. It will save you at lot of time and frustration.
Hope you get it sorted soon. You will absolutely love the quicker throttle response and some power increase from your flatslides.
Regards, Pete. :good2:
Thanks Pete. The bike came with flatslides so its all I've ever known. But I do love it. At risk of overthinking it or even over-complicating things I'll play a bit of devil's advocate here: any concern for starving the carbs at WOT with the smaller float valves? It sounds like you've been happily using them for a while now, so I'd assume no issues. Some quick math and a little guessing: 1.3mm (130 main) + .175mm (17.5 Pilot?) =1.475 < 1.5 float valve. But bumping up to a 135 main, if needed, puts you over. Or does the fuel pump push more fuel through 1.5mm needle valve than the carbs can take through the same size orifice?
I think my concepts are correct, if not feel free to correct me anyone. And if I should just shut up and stop thinking too much you can say that too.
Thanks again for the help Pete, I'll order the 1.5's when I get back from my weekend away.
My previous motor had a Wiseco 1219cc kit installed, it had a 4 into 1 exhaust, foam pod air filters and aftermarket cams. Tuned with the use of a dyno, it
produced close to 140 rwhp and 90ftlbs of torque. The RS 38's had 130 mains, 17 pilots, 1.5mm float needle valves and float height set at 17mm.
It pulled really well out to almost 11,000 rpm, absolutely no sign of fuel starvation.
Regards, Pete.
Finally got a chance to install the 1.5's this week. No leaks! I waited a few days to update just so I don't jinx myself, but everything seems do be working a-ok. I had to adjust the float height just a little after installing the factory style seats since they were a hair shorter (.030"). I noticed one of my throttle cables was very frayed so I replaced both of those also. The throttle is so smooth with the new cables that I lessened the spring tension on the carbs one setting and I may even drop it one more. The bike seems to like higher revs more, hopefully this doesn't get me in too much trouble.
I read something interesting in the Sudco literature: they recommend bench/mechanical syncing the RS (and all smoothbore) carbs as the only method of syncing the carbs, no vacuum gauges. Then with the carbs mechanically synced use a vacuum gauge to dial in the fuel screws with the highest vacuum reading generally leading to the correct fuel screw setting. Anyone have any thoughts on this? All I've done so far is a bench sync while telling myself I'll use some gauges later. But its been smooth after the bench sync so far that I haven't bothered to sync with the gauges.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_14_07_22_10_31_35.png)
Interesting, thanks for info.
Re: Throttle cable return tension: We have heard stories of the RS flatslides sticking open at high vacuum levels and thus a heavier return spring is needed to overcome the slide stiction.
This condition is applicable to the RS family of flatslides and not the roller flatslides of the TMR or FCR families.
So, a quick summary for anyone wondering or anyone searching/reading this thread in the future. I had fuel pouring out of my carbs while the bike was running on the side stand. That issue was because my new needle seats were not seated properly in the carbs, as pictured earlier. Once seated properly with the RS specific 2.0 mm seats the carbs still dribbled out of the overflow at pressure, not nearly as bad as before. I finally took Pete's suggestion and used the factory (fuel pump model) 1.5 mm seats at 17mm float height and have not had any issues since. I also returned the throttle spring to its heaviest setting. At the lighter setting the return to idle was a little too erratic for me, it would often hang and/or hold anywhere from 2-3k rpm. No issues back at the heaviest setting.
Now for the new: I put about 3k miles on the used ebay fuel pump before it wasn't pumping anymore. Luckily I found out in the garage rather than on the road. Long story short, it just pushed fuel back and forth rather than into the carbs. I have a feeling it was starting to go ever since I got it. So I ended up with a $35 pigtail and a free reminder why I shouldn't have purchased a used fuel pump. Or maybe a free pigtail and a $35 reminder..
I found a local racing shop that stocks facet fuel pumps on the shelf, this was the one I ended up with https://aftermark.net/40178-facet-cube-solid-state-fuel-pump-12-volt-2-0-3-5-psi-15-gph/ Made sure to get one with a positive shut off valve. As far as I can tell the stock pump is 2-4 psi and this one is 2-3.5. Went for a short ride today and everything seems good. The bracket is part of a pipe hanger from the hardware store and I used rubber washers at the mounting points.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6955_08_08_22_8_18_16.jpeg)
A few weeks ago my bike hit 60k miles so I checked valves and compression because it felt like the right thing to do. All exhaust valves were 7 or 8 thousandths and all intake valves were 5 or 6 thousandths. Then started the bike and let it warm up. Compression readings were 145 152 142 150. Everything seemed good so I buttoned it all back up and went out for a ride.