My last x-rays shoved that i have started to develop a huchback :good:. probably from riding =) so why not make a hunchback on my seat.I have a spare seat that
im going to modify.I want to make a extra room inside the hunch to put some tools like guns and stuff inside. Always good to be prepared .Not sure im capable to do this job and i have no experience with sewing or broidery, but does not hurt to giwe it a try
i can always send it to a professional if it goes bad :flag_of_truce:
Old Rider,
3M brand aerosol spray (artist's) glue works well in foam seats. You do not need much of the glue. Make any fillers needed, cut to fit, from scrap seat foam and glue into place, A strong powered stapler, using short heavy staplers, is a good tool for attaching the seat covering. Borrow one if possible. If staple ends protrude, bend and/or hammer the points flat to the seat pan before covering.
In the USA, the police have a very poor reaction to unexpected or concealed storage places on any vehicle. Just a thought.
Quote from: red on May 09, 2022, 09:32:03 AM
Old Rider,
3M brand aerosol spray (artist's) glue works well in foam seats. You do not need much of the glue. Make any fillers needed, cut to fit, from scrap seat foam and glue into place, A strong powered stapler, using short heavy staplers, is a good tool for attaching the seat covering. Borrow one if possible. If staple ends protrude, bend and/or hammer the points flat to the seat pan before covering.
In the USA, the police have a very poor reaction to unexpected or concealed storage places on any vehicle. Just a thought.
Thanks for your advice Red i will se if i can get some 3M sprayglue.I already have a stapler i inherited from dad i tested it when putting the cover temporary back on and it worked fine.
Done some more work on the seat.Not sure how this will end :mocking: but ill keep on trying
Old Rider,
Most hard plastics can be dyed using the normal process of fabric dye, with boiling water. Dunk the clear lens only briefly at first, and verify that the lens will not soften in boiling water. If the lens can take the heat and remain firm, dunk the lens repeatedly, and maybe for longer durations, until the lens absorbs enough color. Otherwise, dunk the lens only for brief times (a second or two) to add color. Set the lens into its' fixture after each dunk into hot water, to maintain the shape of the lens.
If the added tail lights are white-light LEDs, you should know that there is very little red light in their output. Seen through a red lens, white-light LEDs would appear to be very dim. Red-light LEDs would be much brighter. If you use red-light LEDs, there will be no need for coloring the cover-lenses; they will look sharp and modern under a clear-lens covering.
Quote from: red on May 11, 2022, 12:11:01 PM
Old Rider,
Most hard plastics can be dyed using the normal process of fabric dye, with boiling water. Dunk the clear lens only briefly at first, and verify that the lens will not soften in boiling water. If the lens can take the heat and remain firm, dunk the lens repeatedly, and maybe for longer durations, until the lens absorbs enough color. Otherwise, dunk the lens only for brief times (a second or two) to add color. Set the lens into its' fixture after each dunk into hot water, to maintain the shape of the lens.
If the added tail lights are white-light LEDs, you should know that there is very little red light in their output. Seen through a red lens, white-light LEDs would appear to be very dim. Red-light LEDs would be much brighter. If you use red-light LEDs, there will be no need for coloring the cover-lenses; they will look sharp and modern under a clear-lens covering.
Thank you for the informative instructions on dying lens,But desided to just paint the inside of the lens with a clear red laquer based paint i usually use on motorcycle scale models .
It can tolerate heat well to.
You was absolutely right about the problem with white LED and a red lens. I found that out after testing =)
Done some more work on the lights first i looked promising but did not turn out well :dash2: :dash2:
Done some more on the seat.I was planning to sew the cover with a sewingmachine that i had in the shed ,but it was broken.
So then after watching youtubevideos on how to sew i did a try by hand.It dont look to good so i will have to buy a machine.I have never used a sewingmachine so it is going to be interesting =) Have bought some vinyl that is strong waterproof and used for seats.
Quote from: Old Rider on May 18, 2022, 04:20:30 PMDone some more on the seat.I was planning to sew the cover with a sewingmachine that i had in the shed ,but it was broken. So then after watching youtubevideos on how to sew i did a try by hand.It dont look to good so i will have to buy a machine.I have never used a sewingmachine so it is going to be interesting =) Have bought some vinyl that is strong waterproof and used for seats.
Old Rider,
Before you spend big money on a heavy-duty sewing machine, you may be able to rent or lease a machine to do the job. I would take the seat cover material to a few sewing machine shops (or stores) and ask which machines could (and could not) do the job for you. In the USA, I have an ancient Sears Kenmore that sews everything from canvas to leather, only needing the correct needle for heavy work. It is a commercial-grade sewing machine, not one of the plastic toys of today. I got it for very little money at a sewing machine repair shop. It went like this:
I told the repairman, "I need a
strong sewing machine. You may have it in the back shop. The owner brought it in for repairs long ago, you did the repairs, and the owner never paid for the work or re-claimed the machine. Now you have tried to contact the owner, and he can't be found. You want to sell the machine to me now, for the cost of your repairs, parts and labor." This operation is entirely legal in the USA, under a Mechanic's Lein for Abandoned Property. The repairman said "I know which machine that is; I have it in the back." I bought the machine for a small fraction of what it was worth.
:biggrin:
The sewing thread you want on the job is called upholstery thread, which looks exactly like ordinary sewing thread, but it is unbelievably strong. You can not break this thread bare-handed; it would cut your skin first. Use the outdoor grade (ultraviolet proof). It costs only slightly more than weak sewing thread. If you want decorative stitching, ask at the sewing shops or fabric stores to see what they have, but heavy stitching will need stronger machines. Any sewing machine can sew with regular upholstery thread. To sew straight lines, mark the lines on the material, and sew on the lines. Nobody can sew straight, without guidelines. Experiment with test pieces, to get your skills together, before starting on the seat.
Great story on how you got your machine you where lucky.Actually a few days ago i bought a old used machine named victory .When i called the
seller he told me that it can sew vinyl and thick stuff.When i arrived at his home i found out he was a 16yr old boy selling his grannys machine.
I payd him 100 dollar and vent home to test it.After a lot of testing i found out the machine was useless and not capable to sew what im going to
sew -so i called him back and said that it did not work and that i want to return it and that i want 60 dollar back and he get the machine
back.He was okay with that.Then today i found another machine named singer 341G the seller told me it should be no problem sewing the seatcover.
I payd 120 dollar for it and vent home to sew.I treaded the machine with the thick upholstery tread and after a little fiddeling with the
upper and lower tread tension it worked perfect no problem at all sewing the vinyl pleats.I found out later that even if this machine is very old
it is advanced heavy duty and can sew many different patterns it also came with loads of asessories.I found a full usermanual for it on youtube.
Thanks for your sewing tips i have the upholsterytread and bought a chalk marking wheel so i can see where im sewing.Now it is time for more
practice on small pieces before trying to sew the cover.
Old Rider,
Your machine may or may not have a " walking foot" available for it, to help with sewing heavy materials.
Contact Sing directly, to check on that. If they have none available, maybe they can give you a Part Number for it, to aid your Searches.
They may also have a printable (.PDF) manual for you.
Quote from: red on May 19, 2022, 03:04:45 PM
Old Rider,
Your machine may or may not have a " walking foot" available for it, to help with sewing heavy materials.
Contact Sing directly, to check on that. If they have none available, maybe they can give you a Part Number for it, to aid your Searches.
They may also have a printable (.PDF) manual for you.
Red im not sure if it has a walking foot but it came with lots of feets i think maybe the curiosity in the middle on the first pick is a walking foot?.Things going slow with the seat project now
because have a lot of other things going on.Have not had time to try sewing but done some more gluing.
Quote from: Old Rider on May 24, 2022, 01:57:10 PM
Quote from: red on May 19, 2022, 03:04:45 PMOld Rider,
Your machine may or may not have a " walking foot" available for it, to help with sewing heavy materials.
Contact Singer directly, to check on that. If they have none available, maybe they can give you a Part Number for it, to aid your Searches.
They may also have a printable (.PDF) manual for you.
Red im not sure if it has a walking foot but it came with lots of feets i think maybe the curiosity in the middle on the first pick is a walking foot?.Things going slow with the seat project nowbecause have a lot of other things going on.Have not had time to try sewing but done some more gluing.
Old Rider,
A walking foot can be made in many ways. The walking foot is in two parts, and "steps" over itself to help feed the material. Singer.com may be able to help you there. This is one type of walking foot machine, showing the basic operation. In the video SETTINGS, you can set it to watch the action at 1/2 normal speed.
https://youtu.be/lQW6NUfWbFc (https://youtu.be/lQW6NUfWbFc)
Old Rider, are you a pistol shooter?
Quote from: Domino on May 25, 2022, 01:28:43 AM
Old Rider, are you a pistol shooter?
No the only gun i used is a peashooter :sarcastic:
Quote from: red on May 19, 2022, 03:04:45 PMOld Rider,
Your machine may or may not have a " walking foot" available for it, to help with sewing heavy materials.
Contact Singer directly, to check on that. If they have none available, maybe they can give you a Part Number for it, to aid your Searches.
They may also have a printable (.PDF) manual for you.
Red im not sure if it has a walking foot but it came with lots of feets i think maybe the curiosity in the middle on the first pick is a walking foot?.Things going slow with the seat project nowbecause have a lot of other things going on.Have not had time to try sewing but done some more gluing.[/quote]Old Rider,
A walking foot can be made in many ways. The walking foot is in two parts, and "steps" over itself to help feed the material. Singer.com may be able to help you there. This is one type of walking foot machine, showing the basic operation. In the video SETTINGS, you can set it to watch the action at 1/2 normal speed.
https://youtu.be/lQW6NUfWbFc (https://youtu.be/lQW6NUfWbFc)
[/quote]
I thaught the machine had a walking foot but it did not :dash2:
Some more work done on the seat.Many mistakes has been made ,but this is my first try on making a seat and first time
sewing.It was difficult to sew straight on the thick material and it is so wide.I thaught the machine had a walking foot but i did not.If it had one it had been easier.Almost impossible to make the
stitch lenght even without a walking foot .I did find a walking foot for singer machines in a internet store ,but then i have to wait for it in mail.I might order one and sew the plated pice again later.
Work is going a little slow on the seat project .I have been riding ambulance to hospital twice in the last week :good2: so not in the best shape =) but im almost finished with the seat and that is the important thing !!
Old Rider, some jet skis and snowmobiles have seat storage. It may give you some ideas for how to make the lid and how to access the storage by looking at their design examples. Are you planning on making it waterproof?
Quote from: melloncollie on June 06, 2022, 03:04:58 PM
Old Rider, some jet skis and snowmobiles have seat storage. It may give you some ideas for how to make the lid and how to access the storage by looking at their design examples. Are you planning on making it waterproof?
Hi yes i know when i was 16 i had a suzuki zr50sl soft chopper=) it had a nice hard plastic seatstorage.I also remeber that a woman about 80yrs old made a turn on a red arrow so i hit her car
head on both car and bike was sent to the car junkyard. No im not going to make it waterproof it is a little waterproof now :smile:
The hunchback seat saga continues
Quote from: Old Rider on June 06, 2022, 12:31:08 PMWork is going a little slow on the seat project .I have been riding ambulance to hospital twice in the last week :good2: so not in the best shape =) but im almost finished with the seat and that is the important thing !!
Old Rider,
What was the medical problem? Hope all goes well there.
Thanks Red The health issue is a combo og backpain and lungs.Infact after i wrote my last post i had to take another trip with
the abulance =) and i got sendt home again!!! I done some more on the seat when not at hospital =)
Old Rider,
The seat looks really good. :good:
If you want logo embroidery, then a hat store, sports-fan shop, or fabric shop may know where you can have that done by a computer.
Take a good image to them on a flash drive. A .PDF file might be the right image format, for most places.
Quote from: red on June 08, 2022, 02:45:08 PM
Old Rider,
The seat looks really good. :good:
If you want logo embroidery, then a hat store, sports-fan shop, or fabric shop may know where you can have that done by a computer.
Take a good image to them on a flash drive. A .PDF file might be the right image format, for most places.
Thanks again Red ! :smile: and thanks for the tip going to some store that can do some embroidery i have not thinked about that possibiliy.The pillow in the seat can easy be remowed so i can do that later.
This time i have not been riding ambulace ,but i should not joke about it because im not well at all those .... at hospital told me to go home without being fully examined
anyway Now the seat is finished only need to order some new brakelights that dont melt haha.Today i did a testride and the seat feels nice
to sit on.The plan when starting this project was to lower the seat a little,but when using the thick foam i did
i should maybe have cut off more of the original seat foam first.I feel im sitting a little lower maybe because the foam i added in the pleats it wery soft.I was surpriced that the bike got faster with this seat it must have added about 30bhp =).
Here is a link to a video of me talking about the seat in bad english =)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6a-Wr5kz3rM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6a-Wr5kz3rM)
Looks great, Old Rider, I have been considering giving my seat a little more of a bump as well, a little too flat for me after I redid the foam.
Is that the original paint job or did you respray it? Looks almost brand new either way.
Quote from: ajacstern on June 10, 2022, 01:27:41 PM
Looks great, Old Rider, I have been considering giving my seat a little more of a bump as well, a little too flat for me after I redid the foam.
Is that the original paint job or did you respray it? Looks almost brand new either way.
Hi ajacstern If you mean the bodywork i have resprayed everything a few years ago using spraycans .The color i used is called camaro inferno orange and the white is starfire white pearl both mixed at at a automotive paintshop Then used spraymax 2k clearcoat and then wetsanded and polished.I recomend the spraymax 2K clear it is very tough and resist most chemicals gasoline included.One drawback with the 2k spraymax is
that it is very dangerous to work with you must have good filters in mask eye and skin protection.You dont want this stuff hardening inside lungs =)I used it outside on days with no winds =) after painting parts i put them under a cardboard box to keep flies away.If a fly lands in the clear it is not a problem as it can be sanded and buffed
Ah well that is a very impressive job for spray cans, think I will give that way a whirl since I do not fancy buying a new air compressor right now. Did you get the stickers online or are they custom as well?
Quote from: ajacstern on June 12, 2022, 09:31:15 PM
Ah well that is a very impressive job for spray cans, think I will give that way a whirl since I do not fancy buying a new air compressor right now. Did you get the stickers online or are they custom as well?
You should have some experience painting with spraycans and the best is working inside.(exept if you using the spraymax 2k clearcote then you will have to use very good ventilation and use
proper respiratory filters and stuff). I have been using spraycans since i was 12 and paited my moped and bicycles The basecoats are easy to spray and the spraymax clearcote is also easy to spray.
One tip i have is to spray the thing you are working on in a horisontal angle i mean to hang it up or do it so you dont spray on it from a upper angle because then it can drip and sputter from the can .Another tip is to make sure to follow the flash off time for the paint before putting on new layers and dont sand the basecoat using metallik paint.On some parts i got bad orangepeel in the clear ,but that was very easy to wetsand
down with a flat rubber piece wrapped in wetsandpaper.Then use a rotary buffer and polish up with meguiars 105 and 205 or lay a new layer of clear.About the decals : The stripe on the upper front cowling is the only thing
i did not paint rest of the stripes is painted on not decals.The other decals i bought from here :https://www.honda-decals.com/default.tpl?cart=165509553253028716&id1=145&id2=200&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=200&--SECTIONSword=ww1. (https://www.honda-decals.com/default.tpl?cart=165509553253028716&id1=145&id2=200&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=200&--SECTIONSword=ww1.)
They can be clearcoated if you want that.I did that on the red/black FJ1200 decal on the sidepanels but later i bought some light blue decals that i just have put on top of the red/black decals.
The decals i put on top that is not clearcoted (they are from the same webstore) is very good quality and have no signs of chipping or bad glue .One thing about the pearl white color is that it is a
3 stage paint that means it is 3 different layers first one white ground then a whte layer and then pearl layer that is transparent and then the clear i think its the same with the yamaha silky white if i remeber it right
I have now bought some new better quality lights. And now working on installing them ,but i need help on the wiring.The problem is do i need to install fuses ? the running lights and brake lights have separate wires and that means i will have to use 4 fuses ?? need quick ansver ! :smile:
Oh yes i forgot to mention that im planning to splice directly into the wires to the brake and running lights
Using LED's? No new fuses...stock fuse on this circuit if fine
No LED's? Regular bulbs? No new fuses, however, you may need to increase the fuse size in your existing circuit.
How to tell? Add up the wattage on all the bulbs on this circuit. Divide by 12, that's your amps.
Use a fuse on this circuit that is 50% higher than the load amps.
e.g. If you have 10 amps in load, use a 15 amp fuse.
Quote from: Old Rider on July 13, 2022, 05:55:29 AMI have now bought some new better quality lights. And now working on installing them ,but i need help on the wiring.The problem is do i need to install fuses ? the running lights and brake lights have separate wires and that means i will have to use 4 fuses ?? need quick ansver ! Oh yes i forgot to mention that im planning to splice directly into the wires to the brake and running lights
Old Rider,
The stock bike wiring is not made to handle very much current. Add to that reality, those wires are what, 30+ years old now? The best way to add accessories to any bike is with a relay-controlled fuse-block. A relay is just an Off/On switch, controlled by a low-drain trigger wire instead of a human finger. The relay is switched by 12 Vdc, using very little current. Power through the relay (the heavy switch contacts) will come straight from the battery, on a line fused very close to the battery. This way, all extra drain comes through
new wires. If you want the extra lights to come on with the existing lights, the low-drain trigger wire to the relay can tap into one of the existing wires. You ran also use a FUSE TAP to switch the relay, at any heavy-rated fuse in the panel, so the lights come on with the ignition key. I realize my choices are not the quick and dirty choices, but if the existing wire harness in the bike melts and burns up, the bike will probably be toast (no cheap fix).
Auto parts stores will have Fuse Taps, relays, relay sockets (wired), and respectable new wires. Any common relay and Fuse-Block will do, but you can get motorcycle fuse-blocks from EasternBeaver, and others. Not recommending sellers or specific items here, but for illustration only:
Fuse blocks:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only)
Fuse Taps (buy to match the fuses now used in the bike):
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/fsa-tp/blade-fuse-tap/1.html (https://www.allelectronics.com/item/fsa-tp/blade-fuse-tap/1.html)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 13, 2022, 09:33:39 AM
Using LED's? No new fuses...stock fuse on this circuit if fine
No LED's? Regular bulbs? No new fuses, however, you may need to increase the fuse size in your existing circuit.
How to tell? Add up the wattage on all the bulbs on this circuit. Divide by 12, that's your amps.
Use a fuse on this circuit that is 50% higher than the load amps.
e.g. If you have 10 amps in load, use a 15 amp fuse.
Thanks for your advice Pat :good: but as i was in a hurry i just added fuses only needed 2.The lights are LED by the way. More on that in my next post
Quote from: red on July 13, 2022, 09:53:09 AM
Quote from: Old Rider on July 13, 2022, 05:55:29 AMI have now bought some new better quality lights. And now working on installing them ,but i need help on the wiring.The problem is do i need to install fuses ? the running lights and brake lights have separate wires and that means i will have to use 4 fuses ?? need quick ansver ! Oh yes i forgot to mention that im planning to splice directly into the wires to the brake and running lights
Old Rider,
The stock bike wiring is not made to handle very much current. Add to that reality, those wires are what, 30+ years old now? The best way to add accessories to any bike is with a relay-controlled fuse-block. A relay is just an Off/On switch, controlled by a low-drain trigger wire instead of a human finger. The relay is switched by 12 Vdc, using very little current. Power through the relay (the heavy switch contacts) will come straight from the battery, on a line fused very close to the battery. This way, all extra drain comes through new wires. If you want the extra lights to come on with the existing lights, the low-drain trigger wire to the relay can tap into one of the existing wires. You ran also use a FUSE TAP to switch the relay, at any heavy-rated fuse in the panel, so the lights come on with the ignition key. I realize my choices are not the quick and dirty choices, but if the existing wire harness in the bike melts and burns up, the bike will probably be toast (no cheap fix).
Auto parts stores will have Fuse Taps, relays, relay sockets (wired), and respectable new wires. Any common relay and Fuse-Block will do, but you can get motorcycle fuse-blocks from EasternBeaver, and others. Not recommending sellers or specific items here, but for illustration only:
Fuse blocks:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only)
Fuse Taps (buy to match the fuses now used in the bike):
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/fsa-tp/blade-fuse-tap/1.html (https://www.allelectronics.com/item/fsa-tp/blade-fuse-tap/1.html)
Thanks Red lots of god information in your post :good: .I ended up doing it just with fuses
Well since i was in a hurry and found out i needed only 2 fuses not 4 i had some laying around and used them.
Quote from: Old Rider on July 13, 2022, 03:00:02 PMWell since i was in a hurry and found out i needed only 2 fuses not 4 i had some laying around and used them.
Old Rider,
Was the bike running when you checked the brake lights? If not, you may have a weak battery or dirty battery terminals. Just a thought.
Quote from: red on July 13, 2022, 07:33:31 PM
Quote from: Old Rider on July 13, 2022, 03:00:02 PMWell since i was in a hurry and found out i needed only 2 fuses not 4 i had some laying around and used them.
Old Rider,
Was the bike running when you checked the brake lights? If not, you may have a weak battery or dirty battery terminals. Just a thought.
I checked the lights both with engine off and running.The battery is 12,9volt so it is in good condition.A strange thing is when testing the lights at home before installing them they
was very bright and blinded me ,but on the bike they are much weaker.I think maybe the 3 connections into the wire harness on the bike has a bad coonection or that i have used too
small fuses not letting enough current reaching the lights.I will have to investigate more.I have not testet how much amp the lights draw i will do that today and also test with bigger fuses ,but since thet are LED i did not think they needed fuses bigger than 0,5A that i used.I will test some bigger fuses today
Maybe boring stuff but may also be interesting if someone is installing extra brake/running lights. Next morning i found the engine not turning over and tha voltmeeter reads 10V.
Never had any problems with the battery before so had to be something with my new installed brake run lights. I had to use my legs and run the bike to start it.Then took a quick
ride and found the voltmeeter was reading a charging power at only 13-13.5 volt.Then turned home an installed my spare battery that is fully charged.Then ride again but still charge vas low so had to investigate some more.I first suspected that the drain overnight was because i always wrap the safety wire from my diskbrakelock around the handlebar and brakelever
so it is pressing a little on the lever.I do that because then the brakelever is always firm and all air is out of system for next ride. But i wanted to check the electrical connections so
i took a closer look...
Old Rider,
Most fuses do not block voltage or current, so I'd be surprised if new fuses did anything good. Those wire taps are bad news - they cut into the copper wiring, and they have very tiny contact areas. Remember, they are lame even when new. Add some age and/or corrosion, and I'd expect problems from them. I would still recommend Fuse Taps, and if you need a FuseBlock, with or without relay switching, those items it would still be good ideas IMHO.
Check if the brake light comes ON with the key OFF, when the hand brake lever is pulled. If so, that plus your disk lock cable probably caused your battery to be discharged. Also check that your battery terminals and wire ends are bright shiny clean. Replace the battery bolts if corroded - auto parts shops (as well as bike shops) will have new battery bolts.
HTH.
Wire taps don't get called "vampires" for nothing!
Done some improvemente on the lousy vampire connections .I imagine the lights got brighter ,but the old wiring on bike is a little blackish on the copper inside plus they are thin.
Also made the seat a little shorter and shaved off some foam on the back to make it more level
In my opinion, the tire is full of cuts (grooves and sipes) , as long as the new cut is not as deep. A bulge or bubble suggests the layers are delaminating. They are not likely to heal, only get worse.
Cut, bulging, or delaminating, it doesn't matter. Is a few hundred bucks worth an accident, injury, or maybe your life? 100% new tire.
Hard to say from the photo but maybe the tire split at a mold line.
I'm among the cheapest man out there and I'd replace that tyre.
Old Rider,
Here is a Fuse Blade Tap. The folded end is crimped smoothly onto the blade of the fuse you want to tap. The top end joins to a standard (female) wire terminal end. The top end can be bent flat across the top of the fuse, if space is limited inside the fuse box. The Blade Fuse Tap (on the fuse blade) is inserted into the fuse socket contact that has NO power when the ignition key is ON or the whenever the original fuse would be conducting current, if the fuse were in place. Otherwise, the wire from the Fuse Blade Tap would have NO fuse protection.
(https://user.xmission.com/~red/fuse-blade-tap.jpg)
If any tire is cut and bulging, please replace that tire; no debate.
========================================
.
Waiex Monkey and Robert you are all right i think .So I ordered a new tire 5 minutes ago .It may have been a delamination maby after the cut or something also notised some vibration like front tire out of balance the last days that increased with speed.
Red: about the fusetaps i have not seen the one you posted before.I found the one i post i this picture and with that i dont think it is possible to get the fuseboxlid back on because of the hight
Quote from: Old Rider on July 27, 2022, 03:53:09 PM
Red: about the fusetaps i have not seen the one you posted before.I found the one i post i this picture and with that i dont think it is possible to get the fuseboxlid back on because of the hight
I have that style fuse tap and I just left the lid off. Someday I'll design and 3D print one.
I believe that slice is a factory defect. I call it the Pirelli smile. I have had two front sport demons that have had the same slice and Sparky in Australia has also posted a picture of that same slice in one of his front sport demons.
I posted these pictures of it on : https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18976.msg192187#msg192187
The second picture is the tire after I cut the flaps of the slice back to see how deep it went . I never really reached the depth of the slice .
Quote from: T Legg on July 28, 2022, 12:57:24 AM
The second picture is the tire after I cut the flaps of the slice back to see how deep it went . I never really reached the depth of the slice .
Thanks Travis for reminding me of that tread .my teflon coated brain had forgot it.The slice in your tire looks similar to mine.I have not checked how deep it is but it seems to go down to the cord. This is the last P-deamon tire for me.I have ordered the good old metzeler lasetec that i have used many times both on my 1100 and 1200 with no problems.It is a bias ply
im not sure if the P-deamonds are bias ply. in my opinion the lasertec also make the bike more stable both in fast and slow speeds .Now il inspect the rear tire to and next will buy a avon 3D for rear tire
Problem solved
I hope there are some staples under those patches to keep it together!
Just give it a heavy coat of Shoe Goo, plenty of miles left on that tire.
I forgot to use staples ;but both galvanized staples and black shoe goo is now ordered :mail1:
The tire i ordered long ago that they promised will arrive under 7 days has still not arrived :mad: The Pirelli demon fix i did not last long ,but i have now found a better solution
until i get a new front tire to ride safer.
I did not use the hunchbackseat today because im going to modifie it some more
Quote from: Old Rider on August 14, 2022, 09:03:25 AMThe tire i ordered long ago that they promised will arrive under 7 days has still not arrived :mad: The Pirelli demon fix i did not last long
Old Rider,
If I had that tire, I would send pix to Pirelli Central Command, not a rep or a dealer, and see what they have to say for themselves. I think they owe you a new tire.
Quote from: red on August 14, 2022, 03:30:09 PM
Quote from: Old Rider on August 14, 2022, 09:03:25 AMThe tire i ordered long ago that they promised will arrive under 7 days has still not arrived :mad: The Pirelli demon fix i did not last long
Old Rider,
If I had that tire, I would send pix to Pirelli Central Command, not a rep or a dealer, and see what they have to say for themselves. I think they owe you a new tire.
Hi Red ! i have been thinking about that ,but not sure where to start and if i even bother .Not sure why this damage happens ,but maybe it is when they lay new asphalt on roads
and there is a sharp edge in the road but a tire should withstand that .Never had seen this damage om the rear tire.
and just to say the wheelie i do here is on a deserted road with no traffic
Finally got the tire, but here is an update on the seat.The lid on top did not work as planned and did not like the white piping and the shape was a little bulky in the backpart so did another try