Now that the winter is here and no riding i was bored and came up with the idea to add coolingfans to the oilcooler.My bike gets really hot when
slow riding in stop and go traffic on hot summerdays.
so maybe adding fans will cool the oil more.This is in first hand a experiment but i will keep the fans if the oiltemps drops.
They must have some impact on the oiltemps at least when standing in traffic
I bought 2 fans that I'm going to try out.They look like ordinary PC fans but they are not .They are classified IP57 that means they are
waterproof down to 1 meter and dust sealed.Also made to push air static pressure is 0.320 and cfm is 24 working at 5000rpm.I found a video on
youtube of a guy testing fans by blowing up garbagebags
to see how fast they got filled up so then i had to do the same test =) here is a link to the tester on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qE6bZBYR2k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qE6bZBYR2k)
Since its winter and don't have access to my bike i cant test how they will work on the bike until snow goes away, i done some test on the bench with the old oilcooler i
replaced last year because it had many smashed fins more about the smashed fins later..anyway here is how i did the work if anyone is planning to
do the same.
Quote from: Old Rider on December 27, 2021, 04:38:43 AM
Now that the winter is here and no riding i was bored and came up with the idea to add coolingfans to the oilcooler.My bike gets really hot when
slow riding in stop and go traffic on hot summerdays.
so maybe adding fans will cool the oil more.This is in first hand a experiment but i will keep the fans if the oiltemps drops.
They must have some impact on the oiltemps at least when standing in traffic
I bought 2 fans that I'm going to try out.They look like ordinary PC fans but they are not .They are classified IP57 that means they are
waterproof down to 1 meter and dust sealed.Also made to push air static pressure is 0.320 and cfm is 24 working at 5000rpm.I found a video on
youtube of a guy testing fans by blowing up garbagebags
to see how fast they got filled up so then i had to do the same test =) here is a link to the tester on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qE6bZBYR2k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qE6bZBYR2k)
Since its winter and don't have access to my bike i cant test how they will work on the bike until snow goes away, i done some test on the bench with the old oilcooler i
replaced last year because it had many smashed fins more about the smashed fins later..anyway here is how i did the work if anyone is planning to
do the same.
Question - When you were doing this test, were you circulating the warm water or was it stationary?
I hope you realize that if the warm water wasn't moving your results will be different when fluid circulates.
If you want an accurate test result, you will have to use a heated tank of oil pumping into the cooler and back to the tank.
You would then need to run the fans and check the temperature of the oil in the return hose before it re-enters the tank.
Good luck with your efforts.
Quote from: Carson City Paul on December 27, 2021, 11:40:56 AM
Question - When you were doing this test, were you circulating the warm water or was it stationary?
I hope you realize that if the warm water wasn't moving your results will be different when fluid circulates.
If you want an accurate test result, you will have to use a heated tank of oil pumping into the cooler and back to the tank.
You would then need to run the fans and check the temperature of the oil in the return hose before it re-enters the tank.
Good luck with your efforts.
Yes i did i connected the hoses and while the lady dragon was not home =) i worked in the batroom used the hose for the shower in the intakehose and placed the thermometer i the
outlet hose.I did not take pictures of that because i had to hold the shower hose pressed into coolerhose and only had 2 hands =)The water was about 55 degree Celsius before entering the cooler i was at first disappointed to see that the water dropped only about 6 degree Celsius (42.8 degree Fahrenheit) but it depends
how fast the water runs i tried with a lower pressure on the water and got a little better results.After that i googled a little bit and found that oil cools down faster and than water
and that oilcoolers with fans usually don't lower the temps extremely much but they help.I also had the oiltemp meter with sensor installed to se how that worked at the same time
Here is the tempmeter that i installed a little later
If only there wasn't a nice fat engine behind it keeping that hot water toasty warm.
The fans may cool it a bit while stationary at lights but are they going to hinder air flow whilst moving and let the oil get hotter?
In Perth Oz I ride to work sometimes in 40+C temperatures (especially now up to 44C), I might be dying but the fj still purrs like a kitten, I can't believe these engines are not suffering and keep on going. My work FJ is totally stock apart from intake socks for the carbies.
On the other hand I have another FJ with cams, wiseco 1219, RPM cooler and some other work, I do have a GPZ250 radiator fan which I switch on in traffic, but to be honest it also takes the heat well considering the fairing encases the motor.
I am a Kawasaki man but to be honest the FJ motor freaks me out at how it handles our summers.
Quote from: Sparky84 on December 27, 2021, 10:20:20 PM
If only there wasn't a nice fat engine behind it keeping that hot water toasty warm.
The fans may cool it a bit while stationary at lights but are they going to hinder air flow whilst moving and let the oil get hotter?
I'm not sure but i don't think the fans will hinder much airflow when riding.When they are OFF they spin very easy so air get past the propeller also if they did not spin i think the air
will get past the propellers .When the bike is at a little speed the total airflow on the engine will cool everything anyway.When i get things mounted on the bike i can do a test by
cover the fans with tape and see if the temp while riding will be hotter.
When testing the fan airflow i found something interesting i could feel air flowing out almost all the way on the backside of the cooler.
Much of the air from the fans does not go straight thru but are spread out inside the cooler.When i took a closer look at the coolingfins
i could see that they have small gills that catches the air and direct it sideways.That means that the best would be to place the fans
a little more in to the middle of the cooler ,but that is not possible i think because of the fender brakehoses and speedocable that may smash
into them
So the fan on oilcooler experiment goes on
The normal way to install the sensor for the tempmeter is to replace the M20 blindplug on the front of engine and use an adaptor for the
1/8 npt27 treads on the sensor.I could not find any adaptor here in Norway and if i had to order one it was expensive with shipping.
So i then bought a cheep 7usd brass oil sender sensor here in Norway with the same treads as the drainplug on the FJ to see if i could use that.
After some testing it could not be used because the thermistor inside did not have the same ohm value as the tempmeter i got.
I tried to find a thermistor that has same ohm resistance as the tempmeter so i could install that but with no luck.
Then i was thinking i could just open the sender for the tempmeter and install the thermistor from that into the brass drainplug sensor,but
did not go that route.I then decided to install the tempmeter sensor straight into the oilcooler by drilling an tapping.
You need to install a sensor on each side so you can see the difference the cooler makes in cooling the oil with and without the fans.
Quote from: Old Rider on December 29, 2021, 07:56:28 AMSo the fan on oilcooler experiment goes on The normal way to install the sensor for the tempmeter is to replace the M20 blindplug on the front of engine and use an adaptor for the 1/8 npt27 treads on the sensor.
Old Rider,
I realize that you have already done the deed, but I would suggest that you could have found the correct nut to fit whatever sensor you have there. Drill a hole in the right location in the cooler, then have that nut brazed or silver-soldered to the cooler, over the hole. One advantage would be the option to repair or replace your "fitting" if the threads become damaged at some later time. If you do have that problem later, you could use the nut trick to make a repair better than it was. Silver soldering is very strong, and brazing is even better. I have seen some excellent pin-point gas torches, lately. You can hold the nut with a wrench while you install the sensor, so there is no stress applied to the cooler framework.
Your ideas for fans and monitoring are intriguing. It will be good to hear about the results.
Quote from: red on December 29, 2021, 11:37:10 AM
Quote from: Old Rider on December 29, 2021, 07:56:28 AMSo the fan on oilcooler experiment goes on The normal way to install the sensor for the tempmeter is to replace the M20 blindplug on the front of engine and use an adaptor for the 1/8 npt27 treads on the sensor.
Old Rider,
I realize that you have already done the deed, but I would suggest that you could have found the correct nut to fit whatever sensor you have there. Drill a hole in the right location in the cooler, then have that nut brazed or silver-soldered to the cooler, over the hole. One advantage would be the option to repair or replace your "fitting" if the threads become damaged at some later time. If you do have that problem later, you could use the nut trick to make a repair better than it was. Silver soldering is very strong, and brazing is even better. I have seen some excellent pin-point gas torches, lately. You can hold the nut with a wrench while you install the sensor, so there is no stress applied to the cooler framework.
Your ideas for fans and monitoring are intriguing. It will be good to hear about the results.
Hi Red you have read my mind that is exactly how i was going to mount the thermal switch on top of the cooler,but ended up with a little different solution because the nut that i got
for the job ( a driveshaft nut )was very heavy and clumsy.I will get back to that a little later. :bye2:
Quote from: RPM - Robert on December 29, 2021, 09:51:32 AM
You need to install a sensor on each side so you can see the difference the cooler makes in cooling the oil with and without the fans.
I think you are right ,but isn't that is only for a fast measurement.with 1 sensor it will show if the oil is getting cooler but it will take a little time for all the oil in engine to pass the cooler
not sure how long that takes
Next up was mounting the thermoswitch.The switch opens at 85 degree Celsius and shuts off again at 80 degree it is intended to be used in radiators in the coolant.Not sure how this will work but hoping the way i mounted it will
make it open later so the oil gets up to around 100 degree Celsius so the condense water in the oil can evaporate.If i find it opens too soon when on bike i will use a manual switch to override the auto function.
Quote from: Old Rider on December 30, 2021, 05:02:02 AM
Quote from: RPM - Robert on December 29, 2021, 09:51:32 AM
You need to install a sensor on each side so you can see the difference the cooler makes in cooling the oil with and without the fans.
I think you are right ,but isn't that is only for a fast measurement.with 1 sensor it will show if the oil is getting cooler but it will take a little time for all the oil in engine to pass the cooler
not sure how long that takes
That will show the effectiveness of the fans by measuring the hot in and cooled out.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on December 29, 2021, 09:51:32 AMYou need to install a sensor on each side so you can see the difference the cooler makes in cooling the oil with and without the fans.
Old Rider,
Well, maybe in an ideal world . . .
That complication may be a little too much instrumentation, for me. Now, I can see monitoring the oil pressure at the main oil gallery (there is a threaded plug for that, just add sensor & display). I can see monitoring the oil temperature at the oil cooler.
As for occasionally checking the inlet and outlet oil temperatures at the cooler, with and without the fans running, there is a good tool for that job. Get a hand-held remote thermometer. Typically they cost less than US$25 and include a laser pointer to show you where you are aiming the gadget. "Range" to target seems to be up to 10 meters or more, but the farther away, the more objects are "seen" in the scan window. So, distant readings can include unwanted objects. This gadget probably works best at a meter or two in distance to the target. Uses 9Vdc radio battery. The link includes a video. Here is just one example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZ1849H (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZ1849H)
Quote from: red on December 30, 2021, 11:47:58 AM
Quote from: RPM - Robert on December 29, 2021, 09:51:32 AMYou need to install a sensor on each side so you can see the difference the cooler makes in cooling the oil with and without the fans.
Old Rider,
Well, maybe in an ideal world . . .
That complication may be a little too much instrumentation, for me. Now, I can see monitoring the oil pressure at the main oil gallery (there is a threaded plug for that, just add sensor & display). I can see monitoring the oil temperature at the oil cooler.
As for occasionally checking the inlet and outlet oil temperatures at the cooler, with and without the fans running, there is a good tool for that job. Get a hand-held remote thermometer. Typically they cost less than US$25 and include a laser pointer to show you where you are aiming the gadget. "Range" to target seems to be up to 10 meters or more, but the farther away, the more objects are "seen" in the scan window. So, distant readings can include unwanted objects. This gadget probably works best at a meter or two in distance to the target. Uses 9Vdc radio battery. The link includes a video. Here is just one example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZ1849H (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QZ1849H)
Thanks for that tip Red i already got an IR termometer i will use that when the snow is gone and cooler is back on the bike
I connected all wiring's and stuff and checked that it works.
Here is a link to the oil temp meter i bought
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333952275561 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/333952275561)
I'm going to add a little insight into your Project here.
I did this exact same thing on my '90 some years back.
The slight difference is that I have Randy's Oil-Cooler Kit on mine.
I was going to post a response in your thread a few days ago, but I searched and searched and just could not find the pictures I had of the install. They were not on my computer where I thought they would be...........................I ended up finding them in an obscure folder of pictures that I had purged from my old iPhone-6 before I discontinued using it.
Anyway, here we are.
The reason that I considered trying this in the first place is that where I live (at 5000+ feet altitude) the air is much thinner. It does not cool as well as denser air at lower altitudes.
I already had an oil-temperature gauge installed on the bike, and when sitting in traffic on a hot day here in the Denver area I can watch the engine oil temps climb very quickly.
It does get hot here, and on a 95-100 degree day the hot-thin air does not cool things particularly well.
I took a few measurements and bought two four-inch diameter "SPAL" puller-fans.
I moved the mounting brackets for the oil-cooler around and spaced the oil-cooler slightly more forward in the frame, and mounted the fans directly to the back of the oil-cooler.
I wired them to a relay that is fused directly to the battery and used a lighted switch to manually activate the relay.
Each fan is rated at 148-cfm and draws 2.2-amps according to their own specs.
These two fans cover most of the surface area of the oil-cooler core.
Here are the results that I observed:
On a normal day, while riding the bike as I typically would with the fans OFF, I did not see any difference in the oil temperature readings.
Having the fans mounted to the back of the oil-cooler did not seem to have any affect of restricting airflow through the cooler when they were switched OFF. (OR, more importantly the oil-cooler doesn't play as big a role in cooling the engine oil as originally thought)
On a hot day while riding through town, with lots of stopping in traffic, if I switch the fans ON they do not "Cool" the engine down. What I do notice is that having the fans ON will slow the rate of which the oil temps climb, but does not reduce it while sitting in traffic.
I've tested this over a bunch of years, on many days of riding in the summer heat while in traffic.
The only thing that reduces the temperature of the oil is getting the bike moving steadily again.
I've come to the conclusion that the oil-cooler itself only plays a role of "In addition to" when it comes to cooling the oil.
The Fins on the engine cylinders and head play a much bigger role of cooling the engine (and by association, the engine oil) Stopping the bike in traffic and ceasing the airflow over it, and the engine temp will climb regardless of what you do to the oil-cooler.
The best thing you can do in a situation where you are stuck in traffic is shut the engine off.
These are only MY findings on the subject. Take this info however you want.
They are loud enough that I can hear them while running in traffic, so I know they are on. The switch is also wired to a separate system that is switched on with the ignition, so they could never be left on accidentally.
https://youtu.be/yThf204qGnQ (https://youtu.be/yThf204qGnQ)
Thanks for that information I'm impressed that you managed to find space to mount them .Does not seem that my 2 small fart fans will help anything then :biggrin: but i will mount the cooler and check how much they will cool when on vs off when standing still measuring on the cooler in and out flow points .I tested with hot water running constant thru the cooler with the hoses on and fans switched on and then the water coming out the outlet hose was about 5-6 degree Celsius cooler.I had also planned to mount 2 much more powerful fans at the
center of the cooler on the backside ,but they are not in stock before march.
I have now ordered 2 more very powerful fans same size but a little higher they have a cfm 86 measured under a static pressure of 2.950 in/H2O will be fun to test them going to place them on backside of cooler in the middle
Firehawk068 do you know under how much static pressure the 146 cfm fans you have was measured ? or do you have a partnumber
The ones I used are rated at zero static pressure.
https://www.northernradiator.com/Product/BM346962 (https://www.northernradiator.com/Product/BM346962)
New and more powerful fans arrived and i did some tests .They are noisy and sound like jet engines. I think maybe these
are something similar to the coolingfans used in some Harley aftermarket cooling equipment blowing air on the cylinderfins.
Are these setup as pushers on the back? I assume they will never be on while moving then?
After this testing, I'd kihe to see the fans setup to cool the head similar to the legends car setups. I'm thinking that is the best use of fans to cool an FJ stuck in traffic... Don't know how much room there is under the tank - and would probably lose the ducts from the scoops - or modify them to feed the fans?
Quote from: fj1289 on January 07, 2022, 11:29:44 AM
Are these setup as pushers on the back? I assume they will never be on while moving then?
After this testing, I'd kihe to see the fans setup to cool the head similar to the legends car setups. I'm thinking that is the best use of fans to cool an FJ stuck in traffic... Don't know how much room there is under the tank - and would probably lose the ducts from the scoops - or modify them to feed the fans?
Yes the plan is to use them pushing air from the back and not use them in speed,but it is maybe better like you said use them so they blow the other way .The airstream will then
aim over the cylhead and under the gastank . I have a old pick from my bike there you can see that it should work okay. I have also been thinking to place them in the airscoops
making a hole in the side of scoop on the side to make them blow into the airscoope ducts
Quote from: fj1289 on January 07, 2022, 11:29:44 AM
Are these setup as pushers on the back? I assume they will never be on while moving then ?
You get the best airflow from a fan through a set of cooling fins by pulling air through the oil cooler. If you blow air into the fins the turbulence when the air hits the fins (non laminar air flow ) impedes the flow.
All fans used with air conditioning evaporator and condensor coils use fans that pull the air through.
Quote from: T Legg on January 07, 2022, 12:18:01 PM
Quote from: fj1289 on January 07, 2022, 11:29:44 AM
Are these setup as pushers on the back? I assume they will never be on while moving then ?
You get the best airflow from a fan through a set of cooling fins by pulling air through the oil cooler. If you blow air into the fins the turbulence when the air hits the fins (non laminar air flow ) impedes the flow.
All fans used with air conditioning evaporator and condensor coils use fans that pull the air through.
Yes i think you are right ,but earlier when doing the tests with fans placed in both push and pull positions with warm water inside i found that the push config cooled about 5 degree faster than pull.Like after 5 minutes the push config cooled 5 degree more
The fan on oilcooler experiment continues .I decided that it was best to place the rear fans so they suck air like TLegg and fj1289 suggested.
So this is the wirediagram how i wired the fans,but with this diagram the fans dont work as i want.I want the 3 way switch to work in override
mode in one position and in automatic mode with thermoswitch in the other position.It works almost the problem is that when in automode
the fans starts at about 85 degree but shuts off after only a few seconds,Then they continue to that.It is supposed to work so the fans start
at 85 degree and then shut off when temp is 80 degree.the 3 way switch is also not working right as only one LED lights up.If someone know what is wrong tell me
since i was not able to find the problem i thinked alot and twisted my brain until it started hurting =) and came up with this diagram.
I was thinking that mayby the problem was that the thermoswitch was not grounded in the first diagram.So then i routed all brown ground wires
to the 3 way switch and thru the thermoswitch with no powerwire to the 3 way switch and made the powerwire so it goes directly to the fans. This worked ,but still the fans did the same
start and shut off fast when in automode. Also now on the 3 way switch non of the LED worked =) Im not so good at electrical stuff so
some more experienced might get a good laugh of this diagram =)
Your control schematic looks fine but the LED lights of the switch have to be hooked up with the correct polarity. If the + and - symbols of the switch on your drawing are correct then you have the positive wire connected to the negative terminal of the led .
Quote from: Old Rider on April 25, 2022, 01:14:10 PMSo this is the wirediagram how i wired the fasIt works almost the problem is that when in automode the fans starts at about 85 degree but shuts off after only a few seconds,Then they continue to that.It is supposed to work so the fans start at 85 degree and then shut off when temp is 80 degree.the 3 way switch is also not working right as only one LED lights up.If someone know what is wrong tell me
Old Rider,
I can't see a problem, from your wiring diagram. I suspect the thermal switch is not working correctly, to be having the fans cycle on and off that fast. I would email the maker, and see what they can say.
In terms of physical fixes, things may get better if you block the airflow from the fan on the inlet side, across the radiator tube that runs closest to the thermal switch. Right now, the fan on the inlet side is cooling
that tube too rapidly. Only
one radiator tube, on the inlet side, needs to have the fan airflow blocked.
I don't know how much room you have there, but if you make a heavy brass "adapter" to fit the radiator hole and the thermal switch, then the adapter will need longer to heat up, and will cool down more slowly than the "no adapter" setup that you have. The adapter will need thermal conductive cream at each end, apparently. This heavy adapter will be acting as a heat reservoir, keeping the fans ON longer. I would still block the fan airflow on the inlet side, for only the one tube closest to the thermal switch. Then the fan will put more air through the other unblocked tubes. HTH.
Quote from: T Legg on April 25, 2022, 02:57:09 PM
Your control schematic looks fine but the LED lights of the switch have to be hooked up with the correct polarity. If the + and - symbols of the switch on your drawing are correct then you have the positive wire connected to the negative terminal of the led .
Aha :good: i remember now that LED atleast some of them only works when power runs in the right direction i experienced that last year when testing
to install LED bulbs in instrumentcluster last year.I will do some checks
Quote from: red on April 25, 2022, 04:10:48 PM
Quote from: Old Rider on April 25, 2022, 01:14:10 PMSo this is the wirediagram how i wired the fasIt works almost the problem is that when in automode the fans starts at about 85 degree but shuts off after only a few seconds,Then they continue to that.It is supposed to work so the fans start at 85 degree and then shut off when temp is 80 degree.the 3 way switch is also not working right as only one LED lights up.If someone know what is wrong tell me
Old Rider,
I can't see a problem, from your wiring diagram. I suspect the thermal switch is not working correctly, to be having the fans cycle on and off that fast. I would email the maker, and see what they can say.
In terms of physical fixes, things may get better if you block the airflow from the fan on the inlet side, across the radiator tube that runs closest to the thermal switch. Right now, the fan on the inlet side is cooling that tube too rapidly. Only one radiator tube, on the inlet side, needs to have the fan airflow blocked.
I don't know how much room you have there, but if you make a heavy brass "adapter" to fit the radiator hole and the thermal switch, then the adapter will need longer to heat up, and will cool down more slowly than the "no adapter" setup that you have. The adapter will need thermal conductive cream at each end, apparently. This heavy adapter will be acting as a heat reservoir, keeping the fans ON longer. I would still block the fan airflow on the inlet side, for only the one tube closest to the thermal switch. Then the fan will put more air through the other unblocked tubes. HTH.
hi red when you mention it i think you are absolute right that the top channel where the thermal switch is mounted gets
cooled to fast so the switch react by shutting fans off good call !.I will try your idea to fit a adapter under the switch ,but there is very little
space up to frame so im not sure if possible.Also the treads for the switch is short.I will try to just use a copper coin in there first.
On first testride there was no thermal paste under the switch and when standing still idling i let the temp rise to 98 degree celsius on the
tempmeter and the switch did not turn on the fans. The engine was very hot so i turned it off.After that i added thermal paste under the switch
and then it started the fans at 82 degree but shuts off again to fast
Blocking the airflow on the top channel at the oil inletside is also a good idea, but mayby a little too much work since i will then maybe have
to remove the fans again i will see
Quote from: Old Rider on April 26, 2022, 02:12:58 AMBlocking the airflow on the top channel at the oil inletside is also a good idea, but mayby a little too much work since i will then maybe have to remove the fans again i will see
Old Rider,
I believe you can simply loosen the fan bolts, and sneak in a strip of aluminum sheet, cut from an aluminum drink can. Heavy scissors can cut that thin aluminum. The strip should have an L-shaped cross section, with the short leg of the L going between the radiator tube closest to the thermal switch, and the next radiator tube. The long side of the L should completely cover the radiator tube, out to the edge of the fan shroud.
This new L-channel would only need to be as long as the fan is wide. It may be easier to insert the L-channel under the fan, starting from the center of the oil cooler and sliding the L-channel outward to cover the width of the fan. Normal tightening of the fan hardware should secure the new L-channel in place. HTH.
Quote from: red on April 26, 2022, 10:51:37 AM
Quote from: Old Rider on April 26, 2022, 02:12:58 AMBlocking the airflow on the top channel at the oil inletside is also a good idea, but mayby a little too much work since i will then maybe have to remove the fans again i will see
Old Rider,
I believe you can simply loosen the fan bolts, and sneak in a strip of aluminum sheet, cut from an aluminum drink can. Heavy scissors can cut that thin aluminum. The strip should have an L-shaped cross section, with the short leg of the L going between the radiator tube closest to the thermal switch, and the next radiator tube. The long side of the L should completely cover the radiator tube, out to the edge of the fan shroud.
This new L-channel would only need to be as long as the fan is wide. It may be easier to insert the L-channel under the fan, starting from the center of the oil cooler and sliding the L-channel outward to cover the width of the fan. Normal tightening of the fan hardware should secure the new L-channel in place. HTH.
Thanks for the tip ,The fans are mounted with ziptie going thru the cooler by the way. I will se what i find out
here is just a little funny update picture of what i found when doing a quick check of the cooler
here is a link to how the fans sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPh-cCFK9B4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPh-cCFK9B4)
Sorry about the youtube vid i messed it up i will make a better video later .Anyway Here is more of the fans on oilcooler experiment.I still cant get the LED lights in the 3way switch to work in this setup.
I tried to connect the wires at the switch about a million different combinations jumping wires ets, but the LED will not work.
I tested to run the front and rear fans separate on the 3way switch like in one position the front fans run and in second pos the rear fans run
then both the LED lights in the switch work see pic 4a I found some cool switches on ebay so going to replace this switch.
I have not had time to test the fans cooling capability, but so far they dont cool very much around 3-5 degree celsius ,but
that is normal for a oilcooler with fans on i think.Like Firehawk068 posted eariler they make the temperature rise much slower when standing still at
red lights
.I notised that when riding in steady speed and oiltemp is stable and turn the fans on the temperature sinks about 5-10 degree celsius it also
depends how long they are switched on. So far i have just run them a few minutes at the time.It is a little strange since engine is already
cooled from the natural airflow.
I have not had time yet,but will run a test by first get the engine up to operating temp ( that takes a looong time now in the cold weater here about 20min )
Then drive a route i know that is about 3km ending up at the start point first with fans off and then with fans turned on
One idea with the one switch and two relays - one position on the switch runs the front fans (or rear if you prefer) and other position runs both sets of fans.
Quote from: fj1289 on May 02, 2022, 04:28:19 PM
One idea with the one switch and two relays - one position on the switch runs the front fans (or rear if you prefer) and other position runs both sets of fans.
Yes i discovered if i use 2 relays i can make it work ,but that will be alot of cables and i already have 2 relays for the headlight so im skipping relays.
After a lot of fiddeling with the thermoswitch to make it work without luck i have just decided to skip it and run the fans manualy .
Last night i did a test to see how much the fans will cool.First tok a 25 minute ride to bring the enginetemp up until it stopped rising.
Outside temperature was 11 degree celcius when doing the test. I drove a route that is 4km starting and ending at the same spot.
made 2 rounds one with fans off and after that one round with the fans switched on
The fans dropped the temp about 10 degree celsius on that trip.
When standing still i have not measured how the fans cools .I have noticed that when standing at redlight the temp rises,but slower than with
fans off i may do a test on that later
I found out that there is space enough in front of the cooler so i will buy 2 more of the powerful fans similar to the ones on back of cooler and replace them with the smaller fans that sits in the front of cooler .
I made an new video that should work now of how the fans sounds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDlQWHucDpM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDlQWHucDpM)
I guess you are starting to get tired of hearing about the fans on oilcooler :smile: ,but here is another test i did on a hot day temperature was 27.5 degree celsius .Im planning to buy 2 more fans similar to the powerfull ones that sits on back of cooler and replace them with the fans in front,but have not yet done that.The performance is not jawdropping ,but can be
helpful with some cooling in heavy traffic =).