Hello all, nice to meet y'all. My name is Robert, 45, I live near Conroe, TX, and I recently picked up an old '90 FJ1200. I have a great deal of riding and mechanical experience. I've taken bikes home in boxes and made them road worthy before. Fortunately, that wasn't the case with this bike. My younger brother bought it first, then felt it was too much for him. I've had bikes in this weight class before, so I know what I'm getting into. I'm permanently disabled, for the past 15 years, so doing anything is a challenge. I didn't know if I'd ever have a bike again, but what's life without 2 wheels?
Welcome!
Welcome aboard! My hat is off to anyone even slightly disabled who wants to keep riding. My little brother, age 59, has been permanently disabled for a decade. No motorcycle, he is a diabetic amputee, but, used to ride.
I want to keep the "used to ride" out of my life a little longer. I'm 60.
Ted
Welcome to the FJ world.
Thanks! I've made long treks from Houston to LA and back on a Ducati ST2, but doubt I can handle doing that sort of riding anymore. My immune system eats my cartilage, which is kinda like removing all the rubber off your bike and trying to go down the road with it. For the most part I'm pretty comfortable on the FJ, but I get a bit of strain on the wrists, and of course that hip muscle that wants to cramp up on occasion. So I'm just taking it easy while I find ways to make my ride more comfortable.
Not sure if would help but some here have installed Buell foot pegs that lowers them. RPM has risers for the clip-ons. That Corbin could be re-foamed to add an inch of height if the foot Buell pegs are not enough. Lots of great ideas from members over the years.
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 01, 2021, 05:26:54 PMFor the most part I'm pretty comfortable on the FJ, but I get a bit of strain on the wrists, and of course that hip muscle that wants to cramp up on occasion. So I'm just taking it easy while I find ways to make my ride more comfortable.
SpiderFJ1200,
For any strain or discomfort in the arms, I would suggest getting an adapter plate and convert those mean stock bars to regular 7/8" (22mm) tubular handlebars. Then you will have a great many choices in height, wingspan, position, angles, and tilt. Google for the FJ handlebar conversions, and click on the [IMAGES] tab at the top of the Search results. Most bike shops will let you take one handlebar at a time out to the bike and make a quick "hovering" check for how they might set for you. You may need to extend control cables and tubing, but that would be true in any comfortable conversion.
We can prolly make more suggestions to further adapt the bike as may be needed; there is a lot of FJ experience here.
Best wishes.
Welcome to the group! FJ's are very adaptable to the rider's needs and many (most, all?) of the modifications are captured on this forum.
I was in Conroe about 10 years ago for Colin Edward's boot camp. A very interesting time!
Welcome to the group Robert, great model of FJ you have there, looks like its got the more modern Yamaha monoblock front brake calipers too - a very sensible upgrade.
Regarding comfort, for longer legged riders, I notice your seat looks to have a cut-down riders perch - maybe a return to an original saddle could help ? Not sure though, what do you other guys think ??
I'd also ask a couple of questions/things for you to check - from the photo (and it could be quality), it looks like there's only one bolt holding the rear caliper in place (the top one) and it also looks like one of the footrest sideplate mounting bolts is missing - that's worth checking too. I've highlighted both points in the photo below. Might be worth giving the bike a very thorough check over before riding it anywhere :good2:
Welcome to the forum :hi:
I was just in Central Texas and the Hill Country last week for Thanksgiving.
Fred
Quote from: Motofun on December 02, 2021, 07:25:27 AM
Welcome to the group! FJ's are very adaptable to the rider's needs and many (most, all?) of the modifications are captured on this forum.
I was in Conroe about 10 years ago for Colin Edward's boot camp. A very interesting time!
Yeah! I know he used to live here. Don't know if he still does.
Quote from: Millietant on December 02, 2021, 09:06:30 AM
Welcome to the group Robert, great model of FJ you have there, looks like its got the more modern Yamaha monoblock front brake calipers too - a very sensible upgrade.
Regarding comfort, for longer legged riders, I notice your seat looks to have a cut-down riders perch - maybe a return to an original saddle could help ? Not sure though, what do you other guys think ??
I'd also ask a couple of questions/things for you to check - from the photo (and it could be quality), it looks like there's only one bolt holding the rear caliper in place (the top one) and it also looks like one of the footrest sideplate mounting bolts is missing - that's worth checking too. I've highlighted both points in the photo below. Might be worth giving the bike a very thorough check over before riding it anywhere :good2:
I've already put some miles on it, driving it from Austin to Conroe. But haven't done much more riding since then. Here are some photos of the AOC.
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 03, 2021, 03:54:26 PM
Quote from: Millietant on December 02, 2021, 09:06:30 AM
Welcome to the group Robert, great model of FJ you have there, looks like its got the more modern Yamaha monoblock front brake calipers too - a very sensible upgrade.
Regarding comfort, for longer legged riders, I notice your seat looks to have a cut-down riders perch - maybe a return to an original saddle could help ? Not sure though, what do you other guys think ??
I'd also ask a couple of questions/things for you to check - from the photo (and it could be quality), it looks like there's only one bolt holding the rear caliper in place (the top one) and it also looks like one of the footrest sideplate mounting bolts is missing - that's worth checking too. I've highlighted both points in the photo below. Might be worth giving the bike a very thorough check over before riding it anywhere :good2:
I've already put some miles on it, driving it from Austin to Conroe. But haven't done much more riding since then. Here are some photos of the AOC.
Just for peace of mind, I'd definitely address the sheared off bolt on the brake caliper. Not sure how that has happened, but it's definitely a red flag issue for me.
I would also be replacing the missing footrest plate bolt as soon as I could - it wouldn't stop me riding the bike, but I wouldn't want it missing for too long. I'd be surprised if someone on here didn't have a spare - or maybe even RPM might have a spare lying about that they could send you. I've got a spare you could have, but unfortunately I'm in the UK.
Quote from: Millietant on December 03, 2021, 07:01:10 PM
Just for peace of mind, I'd definitely address the sheared off bolt on the brake caliper. Not sure how that has happened, but it's definitely a red flag issue for me.
I would also be replacing the missing footrest plate bolt as soon as I could - it wouldn't stop me riding the bike, but I wouldn't want it missing for too long. I'd be surprised if someone on here didn't have a spare - or maybe even RPM might have a spare lying about that they could send you. I've got a spare you could have, but unfortunately I'm in the UK.
Is this the part you're talking about? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274040938372 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/274040938372)
I am making a list of parts I "need" for my FJ. I am currently looking through MSP (Motorcycle Spare Parts). They have everything extremely well laid out for finding the exact little parts I'm looking for, but the nuts and bolts I'm missing isn't worth $40+ they're charging in shipping. And their part #'s aren't pulling up anything on RPM. Any suggestions?
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 05, 2021, 01:50:23 PMI am making a list of parts I "need" for my FJ. I am currently looking through MSP (Motorcycle Spare Parts). They have everything extremely well laid out for finding the exact little parts I'm looking for, but the nuts and bolts I'm missing isn't worth $40+ they're charging in shipping. And their part #'s aren't pulling up anything on RPM. Any suggestions?
Spider,
Give a man a fish, and he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish, and he sits in the boat drinking beer all day . . . (or something like that).
WWW.ANYWHO.COM (http://www.anywho.com)
. . . which is the fer-real Internet
Yellow Pages (all the other Internet YPs are wannabees). "Nuts and Bolts" is a
separate heading in the Yellow Pages, better than Hardware or Home Improvements..
Click on the "Yellow Pages" (Find a Business) tab, then put in
Nuts and Bolts
and if you give a local ZIP code, ANYWHO will SORT the results by distance from you. ANYWHO will even print out maps for you. Call ahead to verify stock, of course.
Metric hardware has
quality ranges, so ask for the best.
Now if you need to DECODE the Yamaha Part Numbers for hardware into actual bolt sizes, here's how:
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/technical-library/decode-yamaha-part-numbers/ (https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/technical-library/decode-yamaha-part-numbers/)
There you go.
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 05, 2021, 12:38:21 PM
Quote from: Millietant on December 03, 2021, 07:01:10 PM
Just for peace of mind, I'd definitely address the sheared off bolt on the brake caliper. Not sure how that has happened, but it's definitely a red flag issue for me.
I would also be replacing the missing footrest plate bolt as soon as I could - it wouldn't stop me riding the bike, but I wouldn't want it missing for too long. I'd be surprised if someone on here didn't have a spare - or maybe even RPM might have a spare lying about that they could send you. I've got a spare you could have, but unfortunately I'm in the UK.
Is this the part you're talking about? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274040938372 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/274040938372)
That's the part, but all you need is the missing bolt - no need to buy the whole unit. :good2:
PM me the part numbers and I will see if we have them. Some of the smaller screws and bolts that aren't on the fairing showing we do not carry. As there really isn't a need to have $9 screw when you can pick up the same screw in stainless at your local hardware store for pennies on the dollar usually.
My younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?
"It's the right size, but has a single contact point."
The single contact in the center sounds like an 1156.
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 07, 2021, 04:28:43 PMMy younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?
SpiderFJ1200,
Sounds like the Previous Owner installed the wrong socket. Do all of the other turn signals also stay on as running lights, when not flashing?
You need the same type of socket on each side. If the other signal has a filament always turned on when the bike is running, as running lights, then you will need a two contact socket where you find only one contact. Search for the unused wire that should go to the correct socket, when doing the install.
Quote from: red on December 07, 2021, 04:42:40 PM
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 07, 2021, 04:28:43 PMMy younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?
SpiderFJ1200,
Sounds like the Previous Owner installed the wrong socket. Do all of the other turn signals also stay on as running lights, when not flashing?
You need the same type of socket on each side. If the other signal has a filament always turned on when the bike is running, as running lights, then you will need a two contact socket where you find only one contact. Search for the unused wire that should go to the correct socket, when doing the install.
Were running lights a US market requirement? I have only ever seen single filament indicators here.
Other than Volvos, were running lights even a thing back then?
Quote from: red on December 07, 2021, 04:42:40 PM
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 07, 2021, 04:28:43 PMMy younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?
SpiderFJ1200,
Sounds like the Previous Owner installed the wrong socket. Do all of the other turn signals also stay on as running lights, when not flashing?
You need the same type of socket on each side. If the other signal has a filament always turned on when the bike is running, as running lights, then you will need a two contact socket where you find only one contact. Search for the unused wire that should go to the correct socket, when doing the install.
Oh, wow... yeah, that's exactly what it looks like. One stays on and the other doesn't. Guess I need to find that part now.
I also realized I should have gotten 2x 1157 W instead of the 1157 R while doing the tail lights. Still, way better than it was.
Quote from: ribbert on December 07, 2021, 05:23:03 PM
Quote from: red on December 07, 2021, 04:42:40 PM
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 07, 2021, 04:28:43 PMMy younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?
SpiderFJ1200,
Were running lights a US market requirement? I have only ever seen single filament indicators here.
Other than Volvos, were running lights even a thing back then?
It's a 1990. Camaros didn't get running lights until 1997. So, no, it wasn't a thing in the US back then.
Were running lights a US market requirement? I have only ever seen single filament indicators here.
Other than Volvos, were running lights even a thing back then?
[/quote]
Noel,
Yes, running lights were a US Department of Transportation requirement on motorcycles in 1990.
The front turn signals on a US spec FJ have a 3 wire socket and use 1157 bulbs.
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on December 09, 2021, 08:32:25 PM
Yes, running lights were a US Department of Transportation requirement on motorcycles in 1990.
The front turn signals on a US spec FJ have a 3 wire socket and use 1157 bulbs.
Fred
So should these work? https://www.amazon.com/BAY15D-Light-Socket-Holder-Connector/dp/B07WSP7FXC/ref=pd_lpo_1 (https://www.amazon.com/BAY15D-Light-Socket-Holder-Connector/dp/B07WSP7FXC/ref=pd_lpo_1)
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 10, 2021, 11:45:51 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on December 09, 2021, 08:32:25 PM
Yes, running lights were a US Department of Transportation requirement on motorcycles in 1990.
The front turn signals on a US spec FJ have a 3 wire socket and use 1157 bulbs.
Fred
So should these work? https://www.amazon.com/BAY15D-Light-Socket-Holder-Connector/dp/B07WSP7FXC/ref=pd_lpo_1 (https://www.amazon.com/BAY15D-Light-Socket-Holder-Connector/dp/B07WSP7FXC/ref=pd_lpo_1)
It looks like this will work. The ground on what I have is attached to the housing. There are 3 wires on the other end of the connector, but only 2 wires are coming in from the signal side. A heat gun and some MEK should do the trick.
Update:
I rode the FJ to HWY 105 get it inspected. $7 and it was done. Went to ACE hardware from there to get some of the little nuts and bolts I needed. All the while, the bike is riding a bit squirelly. I bought a cheap air pressure gauge to check the air in the tires, but nothing showed up on either tire. I rode it down the road to the nearest Shell Station, and attempted to pay for air. $6 later, I managed to put about 20 lbs in the front tire, but for some reason couldn't get anything to change with the rear tire. Then it started to rain. Rode it back home, and hooked up the air compressor to find the rear tire was flat, and the front needed a bit more. I've had to ride on a flat before, front or rear. But both tires is a first. Found my good air gauge after the fact. I'm probably going to be down today and maybe tomorrow too. That ride took quite a bit out of me, and my everything is sore this morning.
Wow
Robert,
If you do not have metal valve stems, I would recommend them strongly. Old rubber valve stems can crack, and maybe let the air out only when riding.
Even if you have metal valve stems, now that I have a TPMS, I consider that item as required safety equipment. Whether internal or external (valve cap sensors), they can report tire temperatures and pressures. You can set the alarm limits as you see fit. I have the valve cap sensors; I also have T-valve stems, so I can add air without removing the sensor-cap. You want an indicator at the handlebars which you can read in sunlight, with an audio alarm that you can hear when riding. Make sure the sensors have batteries that you can replace; don't buy the throw-away sensors. It's great to inflate tires while watching the air pressure increase at the TPMS display.
I mean, who routinely checks their tire pressures when riding on the freeway, and before leaving any driveway? TPMS riders.
Quote from: red on December 14, 2021, 08:58:42 AM
Robert,
If you do not have metal valve stems, I would recommend them strongly. Old rubber valve stems can crack, and maybe let the air out only when riding.
Even if you have metal valve stems, now that I have a TPMS, I consider that item as required safety equipment. Whether internal or external (valve cap sensors), they can report tire temperatures and pressures. You can set the alarm limits as you see fit. I have the valve cap sensors; I also have T-valve stems, so I can add air without removing the sensor-cap. You want an indicator at the handlebars which you can read in sunlight, with an audio alarm that you can hear when riding. Make sure the sensors have batteries that you can replace; don't buy the throw-away sensors. It's great to inflate tires while watching the air pressure increase at the TPMS display.
I mean, who routinely checks their tire pressures when riding on the freeway, and before leaving any driveway? TPMS riders.
I didn't even know those things existed for motorcycles. I'll have to invest in one. Thanks for all the tips. I normally do check tire pressure periodically, like every other stop or so. The compressor does have a gauge on it, but it was in the trunk of my roommate's car, and she got home from work while I was out, so I lacked that option when I left. I'm really sore today, but its a good kind of pain. Torn muscles repair back stronger.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 14, 2021, 08:57:36 AM
Wow
++
If those things are so hard you can ride on them with no air pressure, I'd take them off before riding on them again... I had some Bridgestones that almost kept shape when flat, but you sure couldn't ride on them. Your tires must be made of marble... meaning they won't stay under you reliably. I'd get new or newer tires on there asap... just putting air in those rocks is probably only making them worse.
Frank
Something else interesting about this bike. It's VIN number isn't recognized by Yamaha. That scared me at first, thinking maybe the bike was stolen and then reworked. But numbers seem to match across the board. The title, VIN tag on the front under the triple tree, the stamp on the front right frame brace, and motor # all match. None of it looks newly stamped or placed. Nor have I run into any issues with the inspection and registration. Starts JYA3SKE07LA...
Quote from: Flynt on December 14, 2021, 07:37:26 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 14, 2021, 08:57:36 AM
Wow
++
If those things are so hard you can ride on them with no air pressure, I'd take them off before riding on them again... I had some Bridgestones that almost kept shape when flat, but you sure couldn't ride on them. Your tires must be made of marble... meaning they won't stay under you reliably. I'd get new or newer tires on there asap... just putting air in those rocks is probably only making them worse.
Frank
Yeah, I was scratching my head about that one too. Pirelli Demon on the front, Dunlop D401 (Harley Davidson) on the rear. I detest Dunlop tires because of H-D. Had a mechanic call a bike with 23k miles on it "high mileage". My Ducati had over 100k and you could still see cross threading on the cylinder walls. The fellow in Austin my brother bought it from put that on it. I bought it from my brother a year later. Was a bit much bike for him being a new rider.
Quote from: Flynt on December 14, 2021, 07:37:26 PMIf those things are so hard you can ride on them with no air pressure, I'd take them off before riding on them again... I had some Bridgestones that almost kept shape when flat, but you sure couldn't ride on them. Your tires must be made of marble... meaning they won't stay under you reliably. I'd get new or newer tires on there asap... just putting air in those rocks is probably only making them worse.
Frank
SpiderFJ1200,
As tires get old, they get hard. They can crack and split. I believe that for a strong heavy bike like the FJ, tires are
DONE after five to seven years, no matter about any remaining tread.
If your tires are old, replace them before they damage you.Tire age decoder (click the link and scroll down)
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?te (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?te)
Quote from: red on December 14, 2021, 08:03:58 PM
Quote from: Flynt on December 14, 2021, 07:37:26 PMIf those things are so hard you can ride on them with no air pressure, I'd take them off before riding on them again... I had some Bridgestones that almost kept shape when flat, but you sure couldn't ride on them. Your tires must be made of marble... meaning they won't stay under you reliably. I'd get new or newer tires on there asap... just putting air in those rocks is probably only making them worse.
Frank
SpiderFJ1200,
As tires get old, they get hard. They can crack and split. I believe that for a strong heavy bike like the FJ, tires are DONE after five to seven years, no matter about any remaining tread. If your tires are old, replace them before they damage you.
Tire age decoder (click the link and scroll down)
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?te (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?te)
This potentially saved my life. I have put stupid amounts of mileage on many a tire, usually no less than 36k a year, so it never crossed my mind that the tires could be past their "best by" date. I don't intend to get back on the FJ until I have new tires. They were front/rear 3214 and 3614 respectively.
Quote from: red on December 14, 2021, 08:58:42 AM
Robert,
If you do not have metal valve stems, I would recommend them strongly. Old rubber valve stems can crack, and maybe let the air out only when riding.
Even if you have metal valve stems, now that I have a TPMS, I consider that item as required safety equipment. Whether internal or external (valve cap sensors), they can report tire temperatures and pressures. You can set the alarm limits as you see fit. I have the valve cap sensors; I also have T-valve stems, so I can add air without removing the sensor-cap. You want an indicator at the handlebars which you can read in sunlight, with an audio alarm that you can hear when riding.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/2941/33529323371_cf68d671f8_k.jpg)
At the time this photo was taken I was going through 2 sets of tyres a year and replacing the valve stem each time. I only used the valve for adding air, not checking pressures, and always supported it from the back when doing so. Even if the tyre guy forgot last tyre change, this would still make it only 9 mths old. He imports them from Italy himself and pays twice as much as the Chinese ones. I suspect the tyre fitter has picked up a discarded valve in error. Anyway, my TPMS alert started flashing as I was about to enter a sweeper at 140 kph, by the time I pulled up it was dead flat, there is no way I could have made that bend at the rate the tyre deflated.
I have been spruiking the benefits of TPMS here for years, it has saved me time after time. It has on many occasions alerted me to a rapidly deflating tyre thus giving me the option to pull over somewhere more suited to safely and comfortably carry out a repair, rather than right where you happen to pull up after it's gone flat. It has let me continue riding (slowly) to a township with proper facilities on a tyre too damaged to repair roadside by monitoring pressure and re inflating at appropriate intervals, such as 7 plugs and still leaking, a stick through my tyre too big to plug ( I left the stick in, cut the end off, poured glue around it and rode slowly) and the valve stem pictured above. On one occasion it gave me the chance to return to the town I'd just left and fix my tyre at a service station, under cover on a concrete apron rather than in the mud on the side of the road in the pouring rain, a totally different experience. As Red said, you can check your tyre pressures before each ride, and, hundreds of times throughout the ride. It's also confidence inspiring knowing your tyre pressures are right.
You can lose a lot of air while travelling straight before it becomes obvious but try throwing it into a corner with a half flat tyre!
As for type, many of the choices have cool looking displays with all sorts of info, stylised bikes and other graphics, small or fine readout and all have the same problem, difficult to read at a glance on the road, at speed or in full sun. A few even have to be toggled between front and rear and I believe the Garmin GPS system isn't a constant display, you have to change pages to see tyre pressures but the alarm will override the display.
Simple, bold, uncluttered and permanent display is what you want.
TPMS has saved my arse so many times I have it on both bikes and would never own another bike with it.
Highly recommended by me, and y'all know how much weight that carries around here. :lol:
Noel
PS: Don't forget the compressor. I have just upgraded and down sized mine, these are widely used and recommended by the adventure bike groups, heaps of first hand reviews. Beware though, most small compressors are rubbish.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51747441677_f208b0565f_c.jpg)
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on December 14, 2021, 08:29:06 PM
Quote from: red on December 14, 2021, 08:03:58 PMAs tires get old, they get hard. They can crack and split. I believe that for a strong heavy bike like the FJ, tires are DONE after five to seven years, no matter about any remaining tread. If your tires are old, replace them before they damage you.
Tire age decoder (click the link and scroll down)
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?te (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?te)
This potentially saved my life. I have put stupid amounts of mileage on many a tire, usually no less than 36k a year, so it never crossed my mind that the tires could be past their "best by" date. I don't intend to get back on the FJ until I have new tires. They were front/rear 3214 and 3614 respectively.
Robert,
Happy to hear that, and happy to help. It was the experienced riders who have kept me in one piece, so far. :biggrin: Just paying it forward, here.
As for valve stems, rubber/metal valve stems are no improvement. The rubber still gets old; then they crack and leak. See pix.
You can get all-metal valve stems: straight, angled, and T-shaped, with no rubber involved (except the sealing ring gasket). Pick the metal valve stems which use
common O-rings as sealing gaskets, not the special shaped gaskets that you can not replace at the auto parts store.
So, I've replaced the tires and done some other little things to my FJ1200 3CV. Right now I'm looking for new brake pads. My question though, is I know the calipers are not stock, and I don't know what they came off of, so I don't know what kind of pads I need. Anyone able to identify those gold/blue calipers and have a recommendation for brake pads? Thanks all.
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on April 14, 2022, 03:20:45 AM
So, I've replaced the tires and done some other little things to my FJ1200 3CV. Right now I'm looking for new brake pads. My question though, is I know the calipers are not stock, and I don't know what they came off of, so I don't know what kind of pads I need. Anyone able to identify those gold/blue calipers and have a recommendation for brake pads? Thanks all.
These pads should work very well for you.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39)
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on April 14, 2022, 11:15:45 PM
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on April 14, 2022, 03:20:45 AM
So, I've replaced the tires and done some other little things to my FJ1200 3CV. Right now I'm looking for new brake pads. My question though, is I know the calipers are not stock, and I don't know what they came off of, so I don't know what kind of pads I need. Anyone able to identify those gold/blue calipers and have a recommendation for brake pads? Thanks all.
These pads should work very well for you.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39)
Fred
:good2: :good2: :good2:
Quote from: aviationfred on April 14, 2022, 11:15:45 PM
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on April 14, 2022, 03:20:45 AM
So, I've replaced the tires and done some other little things to my FJ1200 3CV. Right now I'm looking for new brake pads. My question though, is I know the calipers are not stock, and I don't know what they came off of, so I don't know what kind of pads I need. Anyone able to identify those gold/blue calipers and have a recommendation for brake pads? Thanks all.
These pads should work very well for you.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39)
Fred
Cool. Thank you. I've read that I shouldn't use sintered pads with the stock rotors. Have any information in that regard?
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/10t68s1iufcakww/20220502_113455.jpg)
https://ibb.co/PrXHD2v (https://ibb.co/PrXHD2v)
Image isn't loading for me, but...
I'm looking for a replacement part. Looks like a cover for the timing / distributor.
Here you go
Timing cover (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=5EA-15416-20-00)
Timing cover gasket (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3A33M-15449-00)
Quote from: aviationfred on April 14, 2022, 11:15:45 PM
Quote from: SpiderFJ1200 on April 14, 2022, 03:20:45 AM
So, I've replaced the tires and done some other little things to my FJ1200 3CV. Right now I'm looking for new brake pads. My question though, is I know the calipers are not stock, and I don't know what they came off of, so I don't know what kind of pads I need. Anyone able to identify those gold/blue calipers and have a recommendation for brake pads? Thanks all.
These pads should work very well for you.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA252HH&cat=39)
I need some details, please. These pads are for the front? The rear pistons are gold, the front are blue. I need pads for both front and rear, but I don't know what brake calipers are on my bike. I'll be doing pads this month of July.
Fred
After doing a bit of digging, I think my front brakes are off a 2003-2005 FJR1300 while the rear calipers are stock. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
HH sintered pads do not play nice with cast iron rotors, but you don't have those. Sintered pads are fine with your stock stainless steel rotors
On the front you have the R-1 style monoblock blue spot calipers (also used on other models)
On the back you have the stock FJ 16" wheel and caliper.
Rpm has both pads in stock, you want;
R-1 front
FJ rear
Just finished the rear brakes, and the front a few days ago. Working at night while it is reasonably comfortable outside. I really like the EBC pads. Thank you guys, and RPM for all of the support thus far. I was surprised at how easy they made changing the pads on these bikes. I'm not accustomed to the process being so well engineered. The way the pads go in and come out of the caliper without having to unbolt anything is very cool. My front pads were still within limits spec, but my rear had just started grating metal on metal. I started with this bike being in desperate need of maintenance, so I've prioritized the things that are frequent maintenance items and safety concerns. I will eventually get around to the various oil leaks, but at least for now she's roadworthy. I'll try to avoid any hard braking for the next hundred miles or so to break in the new pads.
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/7099_28_07_22_4_41_44.jpeg)
Good deal Robert....was the back rotor ok? Usually when it gets to the metal on metal stage the rotor is FUBAR
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 28, 2022, 08:11:19 AM
Good deal Robert....was the back rotor ok? Usually when it gets to the metal on metal stage the rotor is FUBAR
It had started getting some grooves into the rotor, but not very deep. Just from the riding I did Thursday, the rotor looks a bit more leveled out. I got to it pretty quickly after I felt the metal on metal while braking. I think it will be alright after properly bedding the brake pads.
I get on the bike this morning, and first thing I notice is that the clutch lever is super weak. I look at the reservoir window, but it's really cloudy. Can barely make out the metal behind the window, and don't see any fluid at all. I crack open the reservoir and its nearly empty. So first order of business today is to get some DOT4, and probably a bleed kit.
But my question is: Is there a way to clean up the visibility of these windows?
All of mine on my bike or almost useless as they are. Also discovered "Wandering FJ Rider" 's YouTube channel. Saw he had an FJOwners.com tshirt on.
I hadn't anticipated the struggle of finding DOT#4. None of the gas stations in the area or the dollar stores had it. My roommate picked some up on the way home from work. I added it to the reservoir, but there is air in the lines. I tried coaxing it out with the clutch lever, with some success, but not enough to fully disengage the clutch. So it lurches and dies as soon as it's shifted into gear. I have a bleed kit arriving tomorrow. I'm sure an auto parts store would have it, but the bike is my only source of transportation without bumming a ride from someone else. :shout: