FJowners.com

Hi, my name is joffrey I'm 36 and I'm French,

I just bought a FJ1200A 1991, and I have a lot of small vibrations like a a hair clipper or an electric razor in My hands and feet....

I think I have to make the synchronisation of carbs and maybe to change the old engine rubber mount. But my question is where can we buy these parts ( front upper and lower silentblocs and rear upper and lower engine silenblocs)

Thank you for your answers !

Quote from: Joedelorean on August 14, 2021, 05:28:32 AM
Hi, my name is joffrey I'm 36 and I'm French,

I just bought a FJ1200A 1991, and I have a lot of small vibrations like a a hair clipper or an electric razor in My hands and feet....

I think I have to make the synchronisation of carbs and maybe to change the old engine rubber mount. But my question is where can we buy these parts ( front upper and lower silentblocs and rear upper and lower engine silenblocs)

Thank you for your answers !

On a '91 model, there is a 100% certainty that the high frequency vibrations you describe are coming from the front engine mounts. The good news is these (the pins) only need to be removed, cleaned, greased and refitted and it literally transforms the bike. The bad news is, they can be difficult to remove. There is lots of information here about how to do it that someone will point you towards. This is a common job that nearly every owner has done, you won't believe the improvement, they are one of the smoothest in-line 4 cylinder engines out there.

Carby synchronisation, valves, chains etc. can all cause vibration but of a much lower frequency, more of a "roughness"

Noel

Quote from: Joedelorean on August 14, 2021, 05:28:32 AMHi, my name is joffrey I'm 36 and I'm French,  I just bought a FJ1200A 1991, and I have a lot of small vibrations like a a hair clipper or an electric razor in My hands and feet....
I think I have to make the synchronisation of carbs and maybe to change the old engine rubber mount. But my question is where can we buy these parts ( front upper and lower silentblocs and rear upper and lower engine silenblocs)  Thank you for your answers !

joffrey,

Servicing the engine mounts will help.  You probably will not need any new parts ( and I'm no help there anyway).

* Beyond that, carb synchronization will help.  
* You can also try new bar end weights (heavier weights makes the vibrations happen at a lower frequency; lighter weights makes the vibrations happen at a higher frequency).  So, you can move the vibrations to an RPM range which is NOT your normal cruising RPM.  Vibranators (as bar end weights) are a good answer, sold by RPM (the top banner ad here).  I use them.
* Padded handgrips will help.
* The correct padded gloves (for you) will help.
* The final answer, IMHO, is to replace the too-rigid stock handlebars with conventional one inch (22m) diameter tubular handlebars.  You will get a wide selection of hand positions then (which may help the problem, too).  There are several adapter plates available to make the handlebar conversion easy (but somewhat expensive).  You may need to change the routing of handlebar control lines, or add extensions for larger handlebars.

Best wishes.

1) service your front engine mounts, as mentioned. Here's a tool that will help you take the front engine mount bushings out of the collars: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=594.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=594.0)
2) Sync. your carbs, also as mentioned.
3) Check the date code on your tires. Rubber gets hard as it ages.

Cheers

Thank you very guys for your answers ! I will check that !

PS : I have a slight oil leak at the right-side breech seal, there are air bubbles. The engine was completely redone and the owner told me that his mechanic told him it was okay, that the screws had to be tightened. It only leaks on one side, on the 2 studs on the right. I wanted to know if it was true, and if it was just a tightening, should we unscrew the 10 bolts and then start the cross tightening again at 35nm as specified in the workshop manual, or do I serve only the 2 screws that seem to leak the breech joint?

Quote from: Joedelorean on August 15, 2021, 04:20:51 AM
Thank you very guys for your answers ! I will check that !

PS : I have a slight oil leak at the right-side breech seal, there are air bubbles. The engine was completely redone and the owner told me that his mechanic told him it was okay, that the screws had to be tightened. It only leaks on one side, on the 2 studs on the right. I wanted to know if it was true, and if it was just a tightening, should we unscrew the 10 bolts and then start the cross tightening again at 35nm as specified in the workshop manual, or do I serve only the 2 screws that seem to leak the breech joint?

Not sure that i know what you are talking about but i guess it is leaking at the cyl studs on top of cylinderhead at right side of the engine.Is there coppewasher on those 2 studs? there should be.
If it is leaking on right side of engine where the cyl head gasket is maybe the green orings that is in there is missing or damaged.
When you torque the cyl head nuts oil the threads and make sure to do it in one long sweep until you reach 35 NM  You do that by first torque to 15 or 20 NM then  to 35 without stopping. If you are stopping you can get wrong torque because the wrench clicks before it reaches 35 NM

About the vibrations before my bike vibrated like crazy and made my hands numb, but after a carbsync   it has almost no vibrations and runs real smooth

Thanks for your reply, it leaks at the gasket, right side, I filmed and it makes small bubbles. There are washers on each blind nut, but I'm not sure the washers are copper, though.

I unscrewed everything in reverse order, I put comm oil recommended in the workshop manual, I tightened in 3 times as indicated also and I put at 35NM at once without stopping.

I'm gonna try and put the video of the leak in.

there is the leak in picture :

Quote from: Joedelorean on August 18, 2021, 04:53:12 AM
there is the leak in picture :

If you tried to re torque the head bolts and it did not help, I'm sorry to say that the only way to repair that leak is to replace the cylinder head gasket and the 2 green O-rings .RPM have what you need.   https://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3A1TX-11181-10
          https://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=90430-14240
Good luck !