One of my calipers was leaking so I picked up rebuild kits for them.
Took it apart and it isn't leaking around the piston but appears to be leaking around the o-ring that seals the 2 halves together.
Yamaha doesn't even list them separately. Randy has them http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ACaliperORing&cat=23 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ACaliperORing&cat=23)
but states they won't work on dual piston calipers which I have.
That is what was in the caliper when I took it apart.
I'm assuming a PO attempted to "fix" the leak by tightening the 2 bolts that hold the caliper together way past what they should be because I had to use my 1/2" impact gun to loosen them.
My question..are the square cut ones correct for an 86 or should it have the typical style o-ring there?
McMaster has square cut O-rings. Use Viton with brake fluid...
https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/cross-section-shape~square/square-profile-chemical-resistant-viton-fluoroelastomer-o-rings/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings/cross-section-shape~square/square-profile-chemical-resistant-viton-fluoroelastomer-o-rings/)
Bill
Do yourself a favour - upgrade.
Quote from: Millietant on June 09, 2020, 02:23:41 PM
Here you go Bryan,
Monoblocks are the Yamaha "Blue Spot" caliper s from the FZ1, R1, YZF 1000 R Thunderace, R6 - from the late 1990's up to about 2005.
Here's an eBay search based on. 2001-2005 FZ1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=fz1+brake+caliper+01+05&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=+fz1+brake+caliper (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=fz1+brake+caliper+01+05&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=+fz1+brake+caliper)
They work with a FJ master cylinder, but work better with a matching FZ1/Thunderace master cylinder.
Quote from: 5speed on July 26, 2021, 12:15:35 PM
One of my calipers was leaking so I picked up rebuild kits for them.
Took it apart and it isn't leaking around the piston but appears to be leaking around the o-ring that seals the 2 halves together.
Yamaha doesn't even list them separately. Randy has them http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ACaliperORing&cat=23 (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ACaliperORing&cat=23)
but states they won't work on dual piston calipers which I have.
That is what was in the caliper when I took it apart.
I'm assuming a PO attempted to "fix" the leak by tightening the 2 bolts that hold the caliper together way past what they should be because I had to use my 1/2" impact gun to loosen them.
My question..are the square cut ones correct for an 86 or should it have the typical style o-ring there?
If you have stock 86 calipers those are the correct ones. They will not work on the later 89 and up "four" pistons calipers. They will work on all 84-87 stock single piston per side calipers.
tks folks
Quote from: Waiex191 on July 26, 2021, 07:01:20 PM
Do yourself a favour - upgrade.
Quote from: Millietant on June 09, 2020, 02:23:41 PM
Here you go Bryan,
Monoblocks are the Yamaha "Blue Spot" caliper s from the FZ1, R1, YZF 1000 R Thunderace, R6 - from the late 1990's up to about 2005.
Here's an eBay search based on. 2001-2005 FZ1
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=fz1+brake+caliper+01+05&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=+fz1+brake+caliper (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=fz1+brake+caliper+01+05&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=+fz1+brake+caliper)
They work with a FJ master cylinder, but work better with a matching FZ1/Thunderace master cylinder.
I think 5speed has an 86 FJ 1200 1 TX - unfortunatley the blue spot calipers don't fit - they only fit the 3CV onwards models.
Quote from: Millietant on July 27, 2021, 05:00:40 PM
I think 5speed has an 86 FJ 1200 1 TX - unfortunatley the blue spot calipers don't fit - they only fit the 3CV onwards models.
that I do. :)
o rings are on their way from RPM.
Not only did a previous owner or hack they took the bike to attempt to "fix" the leaking caliper by tightening the 2 bolts much much tighter than they needed to be (I had to use my 1/2" impact to loosen them), they also had 2 different types of brake pads on the front. :dash1:
o rings installed, brakes bled..hopefully a shake down ride tonite.
:good:
If you have not already tried to perform a full pressure test, please do so. Before your kickstand is up, grab and hold the front brakes. Like a prolonged panic stop. Do this a few times then check for any leaks. The o-rings are captive and cannot extrude out of the block. But if they do fail for some reason, better in the garage than on the street. This safety check is free and easy. Then keep watch of the fluid level and leaks till you feel confident all is well. It should be, you got the correct parts.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 09, 2021, 06:58:05 PMIf you have not already tried to perform a full pressure test, please do so. Before your kickstand is up, grab and hold the front brakes. Like a prolonged panic stop. Do this a few times then check for any leaks. The o-rings are captive and cannot extrude out of the block. But if they do fail for some reason, better in the garage than on the street. This safety check is free and easy. Then keep watch of the fluid level and leaks till you feel confident all is well. It should be, you got the correct parts.
On the subject of possible fluid leaks, you can use aerosol spray body powder on all metal surfaces, to catch leaks fast and early. You do not need to wait for fluid levels to drop. The dry powder will be white on the metal, until oil finds it, then it goes dark. If there is no leakage after some use, simply dust away (or wash away) the dry powder, and you're golden.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 09, 2021, 06:58:05 PM
If you have not already tried to perform a full pressure test, please do so. Before your kickstand is up, grab and hold the front brakes. Like a prolonged panic stop. Do this a few times then check for any leaks. The o-rings are captive and cannot extrude out of the block. But if they do fail for some reason, better in the garage than on the street. This safety check is free and easy. Then keep watch of the fluid level and leaks till you feel confident all is well. It should be, you got the correct parts.
these things are a bear to bleed..I have fluid coming out of the anti-dive valve and the caliper and still no brakes..going to go at it again today then do the "hold the brake lever back over night" trick.
I always check the brakes on anything I repair to make sure they are functioning properly. I've lost the brakes before when driving. It isn't a pleasant experience.
Quote from: 5speed on August 10, 2021, 08:42:59 AMthese things are a bear to bleed..I have fluid coming out of the anti-dive valve and the caliper and still no brakes..going to go at it again today then do the "hold the brake lever back over night" trick. I always check the brakes on anything I repair to make sure they are functioning properly. I've lost the brakes before when driving. It isn't a pleasant experience.
5speed,
You can get good help from Speedbleeders-dot-com to make it an easy, one-guy job. Get their nifty fluid-catch bag, too; you'll be glad you did. Any fluid-catch hose you use should go straight up for maybe a hand-span, before bending over into the catcher.
You can also get bleeder-screw banjo bolts, to install at the master cylinders. They cost US$15~$20 each at the right shops, and maybe three times as much at the wrong places. Any good hydraulics shop should have them.
Always use new hydraulic washers, when changing banjo bolts.
Quote from: red on August 10, 2021, 10:48:04 AM
Quote from: 5speed on August 10, 2021, 08:42:59 AMthese things are a bear to bleed..I have fluid coming out of the anti-dive valve and the caliper and still no brakes..going to go at it again today then do the "hold the brake lever back over night" trick. I always check the brakes on anything I repair to make sure they are functioning properly. I've lost the brakes before when driving. It isn't a pleasant experience.
5speed,
You can get good help from Speedbleeders-dot-com to make it an easy, one-guy job. Get their nifty fluid-catch bag, too; you'll be glad you did. Any fluid-catch hose you use should go straight up for maybe a hand-span, before bending over into the catcher.
You can also get bleeder-screw banjo bolts, to install at the master cylinders. They cost US$15~$20 each at the right shops, and maybe three times as much at the wrong places. Any good hydraulics shop should have them.
Always use new hydraulic washers, when changing banjo bolts.
thanks for the tip. I didn't know banjo bolts with bleeder screws were a thing.
I have brakes now. Pulled up a stool, had a cup of coffee and slowly worked the brake lever back and forth until the air bubbles stopped. Hit the caliper and anti-dive bleeder screws for good measure.
Going for a short ride around town then do the bleeder screws again.
We have them in stock. A few bucks more than some and cheaper than others.
Bleeder Banjo Bolt (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BanjoBoltBleeder)
Quote from: RPM - Robert on August 10, 2021, 12:15:32 PM
We have them in stock. A few bucks more than some and cheaper than others.
Bleeder Banjo Bolt (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BanjoBoltBleeder)
:good2:
well, the brakes work but they aren't quite there yet. Waiting for her to cool down and give it another go.
I'm still getting the smell of burning oil too although not as bad.
Any known issues with the fittings on the oil cooler starting to leak?
Gratuitous pic too.
Just tie the brake lever to the throttlegrip with rubberband tape or velcroband or a ziptie or anything :yes: don't need to be all way in just 2-3 cm inward .let sit overnight and the brakes will self-bleed and tomorrow the brake lever will be non spongy.
If it leaks around any fitting on the oil cooler you must replace the O-rings there are 2 smaller where the hoses enter the case and 2 bigger at the top where the hoses connect the cooler if i remember right.
RPM have them
Quote from: Old Rider on August 10, 2021, 01:37:11 PM
Just tie the brake lever to the throttlegrip with rubberband tape or velcroband or a ziptie or anything :yes: don't need to be all way in just 2-3 cm inward .let sit overnight and the brakes will self-bleed and tomorrow the brake lever will be non spongy.
If it leaks around any fitting on the oil cooler you must replace the O-rings there are 2 smaller where the hoses enter the case and 2 bigger at the top where the hoses connect the cooler if i remember right.
RPM have them
that was the plan...after I do the bleeder screws 1 more time.
tks...I'm going to take a good look and see if it was residual oil from the leaking valve cover. the grommets around the bolts were squished out of shape and had silicone or something all over them. gotta love it when people half ass a repair. :dash1: