Had a buddy bugging me for a couple of years to work on one of his FJ's.
He dropped it off a few weeks ago, and I made a little time to get started.
Nothing really scary other than the smell of the fuel in the tank.
Front brakes are inop, think I'll remove the antidive for him.
Clutch hydraulics want some TLC.
I noticed some silicone used on the valve cover and bolts, that's going to be corrected.
I'm just glad to be starting, due to family crisis after crisis, hoping for some wrench and riding time.
I decided to take my FJ to a local shop to order up a battery for the project.
My bike sat for a long time, weeks, maybe months, but it fired right up.
I made it to the bike shop, ordered the good but inexpensive battery I wanted, went back out to my bike, and it would not start.
WTF!
Clock was on, turn key on, clock would go out.
One of the techs tried a jump pack, no bueno, at least it showed 12.8 volts on the battery.
I went ahead and checked all the fuses, all the connections I could see and even wiggled a few I could not see.
Plenty of suggestions and advise from the guys at the shop - and some suggestions on how I should own a Harley to avoid these issues.
I finally borrowed the owners Fluke meter and diagnosed my battery crapped out.
The Fluke showed 10.8 volts at the battery, hit the key, it immediatley dropped to almost nothing. Simple.
That battery was only a year old, it was an emergency purchase and was a "Chinese" battery. I either have a charging issue or a vibration issue. Or just a shit battery.
Anyway, they had a new Yuasa AGM on hand, bought it, installed it, the rest, is me riding!
Check your charging volts. Check the battery specs.
I smoked a perfectly good AGM with my 15+ volt charging current.
I installed the Transpo voltage regulator and adjusted it down to 14.4 and all is well.
Even my light bulbs are happier.
The Old school oem lead acid batteries are more tolerant to 15+ charging volts than Li or AGM batteries.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 21, 2021, 08:25:45 AM
Check your charging volts. Check the battery specs.
I smoked a perfectly good AGM with my 15+ volt charging current.
I installed the Transpo voltage regulator and adjusted it down to 14.4 and all is well.
Even my light bulbs are happier.
The Old school oem lead acid batteries are more tolerant to 15+ charging volts than Li or AGM batteries.
Excellent advice and suggestions - thank you!
Thanks for the side picture helped with placement of electrics.
Finally made some time to dive into Colin's bike.
These bikes are so easy to work on, they truly are a joy!
Note the one vent hose than was crimped the last time these carbs were rebuilt - It's easy to see which carb that was in upcoming pictures.
These carbs smelled like, well, you know -
QuoteWhiskey bottles, and brand new cars
Oak tree you're in my way
There's too much coke and too much smoke
Look what's going on inside you
Ooooh that smell
Can't you smell that smell
Ooooh that smell
The smell of death surrounds you
Ironic, the cleanest of the carbs ended up being the one with the crimped vent line.
These carbs, well, they would need complete disassembly IMO to work well again, and I'm not really in the mood for that.
So, I waved a bottle of SeaFoam over them, chanted "vroom vroom" three times and like magic, they're clean!
Well, maybe in my dreams.
Luckily I have a rack of late model carbs, ready to go.
When I went to check the airbox, I noticed, it was occupied.....
I'll just remove that old airbox and replace it with the RPM filters.
I'm going through the "new" carbs, they seem to be jetted properly for this application, thank goodness.
One float valve needle spring was stuck, it freed up quickly. I'm going to check/set the float heights, then inspect the diaphrams and needles.
Any suggestions on a fuel pump? Pressure spec's, minimum/maximum flow?
I'm leaning towards a toggle switch to activate it, rather than wiring it in to switched power.
The vacuum petcock, I guess I'll have to "fix" it to be full flow, add a filter and a check valve to the system.
Thoughts?
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 01, 2021, 03:12:45 PM
Any suggestions on a fuel pump? Pressure spec's, minimum/maximum flow?
I'm leaning towards a toggle switch to activate it, rather than wiring it in to switched power.
The vacuum petcock, I guess I'll have to "fix" it to be full flow, add a filter and a check valve to the system.
Thoughts?
Hey Steve, those carbs are a perfect candidate for a ultrasound bubble bath, that way you can be assured all the internal passages are cleaned out. Robert at RPM did a fine job on a set of carbs I sent him.
I am going to convert my gravity fed '84 over to a fuel pump just so I can run a proper fuel filter.
My tank (like me) is not getting any younger and the better filtering on the fuel system, the happier my carbs will be.... Anyhoo...
I plan on on using a key switched 12v power and running it through this controller box:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334059928374 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/334059928374)
This will mimic what the oem fuel pump FJ bikes do. It allows an initial 3 second prime upon key on power and importantly, it shuts off the fuel pump when there is no tach. signal. In the unfortunate event of an accident...you do not want the fuel pump continuing to run with a dead engine. If you break a fuel line between the pump and engine, the engine will stall from lack of fuel, when the engine stalls the tach signal stops and thus, so does the fuel pump, however, if you break a fuel line between the tank and pump you're fucked, look for a fire extinguisher. (unless you wire in an electrical solenoid at the petcock)
Think of the controller like a vacuum petcock, no vacuum = petcock closes, same principal except with a tach signal.
I also plan on running a oem Yamaha fuel pump...no more Chinese shit pumps for me... :dash2:
Don't forget to change your float needles to the smaller diameter needles used for the fuel pump carbs.
The higher line pressure from the fuel pump will overwhelm the larger diameter gravity flow needles resulting in flooding.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
Cheers mate. Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 01, 2021, 05:14:30 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 01, 2021, 03:12:45 PM
Any suggestions on a fuel pump? Pressure spec's, minimum/maximum flow?
I'm leaning towards a toggle switch to activate it, rather than wiring it in to switched power.
The vacuum petcock, I guess I'll have to "fix" it to be full flow, add a filter and a check valve to the system.
Thoughts?
Hey Steve, those carbs are a perfect candidate for a ultrasound bubble bath, that way you can be assured all the internal passages are cleaned out. Robert at RPM did a fine job on a set of carbs I sent him.
I am going to convert my gravity fed '84 over to a fuel pump just so I can run a proper fuel filter.
My tank (like me) is not getting any younger and the better filtering on the fuel system, the happier my carbs will be.... Anyhoo...
I plan on on using a key switched 12v power and running it through this controller box:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334059928374 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/334059928374)
This will mimic what the oem fuel pump FJ bikes do. It allows an initial 3 second prime upon key on power and importantly, it shuts off the fuel pump when there is no tach. signal. In the unfortunate event of an accident...you do not want the fuel pump continuing to run with a dead engine. If you break a fuel line between the pump and engine, the engine will stall from lack of fuel, when the engine stalls the tach signal stops and thus, so does the fuel pump, however, if you break a fuel line between the tank and pump you're fucked, look for a fire extinguisher. (unless you wire in an electrical solenoid at the petcock)
Think of the controller like a vacuum petcock, no vacuum = petcock closes, same principal except with a tach signal.
I also plan on running a oem Yamaha fuel pump...no more Chinese shit pumps for me... :dash2:
Don't forget to change your float needles to the smaller diameter needles used for the fuel pump carbs.
The higher line pressure from the fuel pump will overwhelm the larger diameter gravity flow needles resulting in flooding.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
Cheers mate. Pat
I'm using a set of carbs from a later year model, so the float needles should be good to go.
Any idea on the fuel pressure needed?
I was considering something along these lines - But thought the pressure might be too high.
QuoteHolley Electric External 32 GPH Low Pressure Fuel Pump All Fuel Universal 12-427
Holley pumps have fueled more performance engines than all others and the Holley line keeps on growing! Holley is proud to introduce the all new Holley Mighty Mite™ electric fuel pumps! They're big on performance, but small in size! They're quiet, easy to install and work with gas, diesel, blended alcohol and E85!
12 volt operation
4-7 psi operating pressure
32 gal/hr flow
Good for up to 400HP naturally aspirated
Reliable solid state design provides longer life
Compatible with all fuels and fuel additives (gas, diesel, blended alcohol, ethanol, e-85)
Simple 2 wire hookup
Self-priming and regulating
12" dry lift capable
Quiet operation – 65db
Great for carbureted trucks, cars, generators and agricultural equipment – also makes a great transfer pump
Engineered and matched performance with Holley®, Demon®, Quick Fuel® and Edelbrock® carburetors(all trademarks are property of their respective owners. Edelbrock is a registered trademark of Edelbrock,LLC)
Comes with fuel filter, fittings and mounting hardware
Made in the USA
or this one from Summit racing
QuoteBrand: Derale Cooling Products
Manufacturer's Part Number: 72001
Part Type: Fuel Pumps
Product Line: Derale Universal Inline Fuel Pumps
Summit Racing Part Number: DER-72001
UPC: 83277720017
Fuel Pump Type: Electric external
Fuel Pump Voltage: 12 V
Flow Rate: 26.4 gph/100 lph
Fuel Pressure (psi): 2-3.5 psi
Fuel Pressure Regulator Included: No
Sending Unit Included: No
Fuel Pump Inlet Size: 1/8 in. NPT
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Attachment: Hose barb
Fuel Pump Outlet Size: 1/8 in. NPT
Outlet Quantity: One
Outlet Attachment: Female threads
Gasket Included: No
Wiring Harness Included: No
Mounting Bracket Included: No
Mounting Hardware Included: No
Pulley Included: No
Quantity: Sold individually.
Derale Universal Inline Fuel Pumps
Derale universal inline fuel pumps are assembled using only the highest quality materials, manufacturing methods and technology in order to ensure maximum performance and reliability. These pumps cover a wide range of low-pressure carbureted fuel system applications. They're also available for a variety of fuel types, including gasoline, diesel, E85, E100, M100, and racing fuel.
Additional product features:
* Compact design
* Constant high-flow rate
* Consistent pressure
* Rotary vane inline pump
* Includes all necessary hardware
My customer wants it wired in, so I'll have to consider a controller, good call, thank you!
Which ever aftermarket pump you choose be sure it completely shuts off the fuel flow when not powered.
Some pumps do not because they were designed with the pump and fuel tank located below the carb level so they just need to pump the fuel up hill, no need for a check valve, gravity holds the fuel back.
With our FJ's the fuel is above the carbs, so the pump has to hold the fuel back when de-powered.
Cheers
Pat
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 02, 2021, 10:34:15 AM
Which ever aftermarket pump you choose be sure it completely shuts off the fuel flow when not powered.
Some pumps do not because they were designed with the pump and fuel tank located below the carb level so they just need to pump the fuel up hill, no need for a check valve, gravity holds the fuel back.
With our FJ's the fuel is above the carbs, so the pump has to hold the fuel back when de-powered.
Cheers
Pat
This fits the bill and is the one I used on my '89.
Facet - FPF-40178N 12V, 2-3.5PSI
Quote from: Dads_FJ on August 02, 2021, 11:05:18 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 02, 2021, 10:34:15 AM
Which ever aftermarket pump you choose be sure it completely shuts off the fuel flow when not powered.
Some pumps do not because they were designed with the pump and fuel tank located below the carb level so they just need to pump the fuel up hill, no need for a check valve, gravity holds the fuel back.
With our FJ's the fuel is above the carbs, so the pump has to hold the fuel back when de-powered.
Cheers
Pat
This fits the bill and is the one I used on my '89.
Facet - FPF-40178N 12V, 2-3.5PSI
Thank you both - Great info!
QuoteSolid State Fuel Pump For 12V 36" / 91.44cm Min Dry Lift 15 GPH; FPF-40178N
Part Number: FPF-40178N
MPN: FPF-40178N
Part Type: Fuel Pump
Warranty: 1 Year
Electrical Aftermarket Parts for Virtually Any Vehicle
DB Electrical is a leading source for rotating electrical products for autos, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs, farm tractors and many other vehicles. We stand behind every product with our total-confidence 1-year warranty. Yes, you have a full year to make sure your order meets your expectations.
SPECIFICATIONS
Description Solid State Fuel Pump
Fitting Type 1/8-27 Internally Threaded
GPH 15
Includes Check Valve? Yes
Includes Positive Shutoff Valve? Yes
Includes Quiet Valve? No
Max Shutoff Pressure 3.5 PSI
Min Dry Lift 36in / 91.44cm
Min Shutoff Pressure 2 PSI
Negative Leads 0.25" Ring Terminal
Packaging Box
Voltage 12
OEM(s) Facet Fuel Pumps
Application All Carburetor-Equipped Cars, Vans & Light Trucks, Stationary Engines, Gen-Sets, Fuel Priming & Transfer Applications
Features Compatible - with Leaded or Unleaded Gasoline, Diesel Fuel, Blended Fuels, Pure Alcohol & Fuel Additives. Reliable - No Electrical Contacts, Bearings, Rubber Diaphragms or Valves to Wear Out or Fatigue. Easy to Install & Service. Eliminates Vapor Lock - for Constant, Smooth Fuel Delivery on Hot Days & High Altitudes. Pressure Relief - Eliminates Flooding & Assures Satisfactory Restarting on the Hottest Days. Corrosion Resistant - the All Steel Case Is Plated to Provide Over 100 Hours of Salt Spray Resistance. Self-Priming - to 12 Inches of Fuel Lift.
INTERCHANGES
Arrowhead FPF-40178N
Facet Fuel Pumps 40178
Federal Mogul P70090, P70091
Freightliner FEP480598
Gehl 77663
Kohler 249862, 278490
Tennant 59945, 61961
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 02, 2021, 10:34:15 AM
Which ever aftermarket pump you choose be sure it completely shuts off the fuel flow when not powered.
Some pumps do not because they were designed with the pump and fuel tank located below the carb level so they just need to pump the fuel up hill, no need for a check valve, gravity holds the fuel back.
With our FJ's the fuel is above the carbs, so the pump has to hold the fuel back when de-powered.
Cheers
Pat
I found this on an FJ site:
Damn shame there's not some way of mechanically shutting off the fuel supply when the ignition is turned off, you would think someone would have come up with a way of doing it by now.
Relying on the pump alone to hold back head pressure is never a good idea, clearly evidenced by the number of FJ's that suffer incontinence at some point in their life and the many for whom it's an ongoing issue because of poor advice.
This is something that Yamaha, or at least their supplier, didn't get quite right. The original pump is no doubt an off the shelf item, in all likelihood chosen without taking into account the unusual application (head pressure)
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 04, 2021, 08:54:00 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 02, 2021, 10:34:15 AM
Which ever aftermarket pump you choose be sure it completely shuts off the fuel flow when not powered. Cheers
Pat
I found this on an FJ site:
Damn shame there's not some way of mechanically shutting off the fuel supply when the ignition is turned off, you would think someone would have come up with a way of doing it by now.
Relying on the pump alone to hold back head pressure is never a good idea, clearly evidenced by the number of FJ's that suffer incontinence at some point in their life and the many for whom it's an ongoing issue because of poor advice.
Noel
Noel,
Amazon is one easy source for a
variety of "normally closed" 12Vdc solenoid valves for fuel. I'm sure there are many out there. They have various pipe diameters, so you can insure good fuel flow. A solenoid will usually draw more electrical power than a relay, but still not a lot. If you power the solenoid from a relay-controlled fuse block, you should be golden.
Quote from: Dads_FJ on August 02, 2021, 11:05:18 AM
This fits the bill and is the one I used on my '89.
Facet - FPF-40178N 12V, 2-3.5PSI
Ordered that pump and the controller Pat recommended.
Thoughts on how to modify the '86 fuel petcock? I don't see any need for the vacuum shutoff, I was leaning toward making it open all the time and installed an inline manual shutoff valve.
Quoteand the search feature -
Hello Tom, a couple of things to do if you want to retrofit a fuel pump on to your early '84-87 FJ.
1) the '84-85 vacuum petcock must be set on (P) Prime (open all the time) For '86-87 petcocks that don't have this prime feature, you have to convert to a manual petcock or use a '84/85 petcock.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJPetcock (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJPetcock)
The closing of the petcock is no longer needed, the fuel pump now controls the fuel flow.
2) The '84-87 gravity feed carbs use larger float needle seats, the '88-95 fuel pump carbs use smaller float needle seats, so you will need to change them: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9836.0)
If you use the large needle seats with a fuel pump, the higher fuel pressure will push the float needle off the seat and not allow it to fully close and flooding will occur.
3) Add a safety shut off for the fuel pump. On the '88-95 Fuel pump FJ's the fuel pump power circuit runs thru the ignition box so when the ignition box stops sensing a tach signal (engine stopped) the power to the fuel pump stops after a few seconds.
You need to add this Safety feature to your early FJ: http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html (http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html)
Everything else is straight forward, pump, wiring, fuel filter, fuel line, etc...
Cheers. Pat
Thanks Pat!
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 04, 2021, 10:52:03 PM
1) the '84-85 vacuum petcock must be set on (P) Prime (open all the time) For '86-87 petcocks that don't have this prime feature, you have to convert to a manual petcock or use a '84/85 petcock.
Be careful! 84/85 petcocks don't fit on 86/87 fuel tanks, the screw distance is different. I have to check if 88-93 petcocks fit on 86/87 tanks.
Cheers
Quote from: Alf on August 06, 2021, 01:17:31 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 04, 2021, 10:52:03 PM
1) the '84-85 vacuum petcock must be set on (P) Prime (open all the time) For '86-87 petcocks that don't have this prime feature, you have to convert to a manual petcock or use a '84/85 petcock.
Be careful! 84/85 petcocks don't fit on 86/87 fuel tanks, the screw distance is different. I have to check if 88-93 petcocks fit on 86/87 tanks.
Cheers
Alf you have it backwards. 84-87 all have the same bolt hole spacing and oval o-ring. The 89-95 fuel pump bikes will not fit in the earlier models, the spacing is closer together and the base is smaller.
Thanks Robert. :good:
It has been common to replace the wonky 86/87 (elect.reserve) petcock with the simpler (less expensive) '84/85 petcock.
What Pat said.
I've made that exact swap for my 86.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 06, 2021, 03:08:00 PM
Thanks Robert. :good:
It has been common to replace the wonky 86/87 (elect.reserve) petcock with the simpler (less expensive) '84/85 petcock.
I bought an 86 new petcock last month from an FJ owner that claimed it didnt fit on a 1100, hence my error. Thanks, guys
Bled the front hydraulics today. Used almost a quart of fluid.
I used an old battery acid bottle and a clear hose, positioned at shown.
Squeeze the bottle before connecting to the bleeder, it wants to suck the fluid out, assisting with the bleeding.
The fuel pump controller arrived, pump should be here soon.
Progress
Another sign this bike sat a while. So glad noone tried to add gas and go.
I kinda dig the electronic reserve. But, not the vacuum shutoff As the new fuel pump has a check valve in in, I'll probably make this one a "full flow" and add a small inline shut off to ease tank removal.
I'm thinking about making 10 or 20 of these.
Does anyone think there is any demand for them?
Anti-dive block off plates.
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 08, 2021, 11:23:40 AMI'm thinking about making 10 or 20 of these. Does anyone think there is any demand for them? Anti-dive block off plates.
FJ1200W,
Are all years of anti-dive units the same? I have a 1985 FJ1100. I could use two. What would they cost?
Quote from: red on August 08, 2021, 01:01:59 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 08, 2021, 11:23:40 AMI'm thinking about making 10 or 20 of these. Does anyone think there is any demand for them? Anti-dive block off plates.
FJ1200W,
Are all years of anti-dive units the same? I have a 1985 FJ1100. I could use two. What would they cost?
I'm waiting for my machinist to get back with me, I'll let you know!
84-86 should be the same
I bet these could be 3D printed - hummmmmm
Oh the joys.......
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 07, 2021, 06:41:15 PM
Bled the front hydraulics today. Used almost a quart of fluid.
I used an old battery acid bottle and a clear hose, positioned at shown.
Squeeze the bottle before connecting to the bleeder, it wants to suck the fluid out, assisting with the bleeding.
The fuel pump controller arrived, pump should be here soon.
Progress
Steve - if you will make sure that bleeder line travels up from the bleeder valve, the column of fluid will act like a one-man bleeder: air bubbles will travel up and out, and bubble free fluid will flow back in
1st rough draft....
2nd attempt -
Quote from: fj1289 on August 08, 2021, 09:48:13 PM
Steve - if you will make sure that bleeder line travels up from the bleeder valve, the column of fluid will act like a one-man bleeder: air bubbles will travel up and out, and bubble free fluid will flow back in
Chris, I asked my mechanic about this, he said this works better in theory than in practice. Certainly the big bubbles shoot straight up but the viscosity of the fluid makes the smaller ones very slow to rise, in fact they are taught in trade school that if you drop a bottle of brake fluid, let it stand 24 hrs before using it.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 09, 2021, 05:55:33 AM
Quote from: fj1289 on August 08, 2021, 09:48:13 PM
Steve - if you will make sure that bleeder line travels up from the bleeder valve, the column of fluid will act like a one-man bleeder: air bubbles will travel up and out, and bubble free fluid will flow back in
Chris, I asked my mechanic about this, he said this works better in theory than in practice. Certainly the big bubbles shoot straight up but the viscosity of the fluid makes the smaller ones very slow to rise, in fact they are taught in trade school that if you drop a bottle of brake fluid, let it stand 24 hrs before using it.
Noel
Noel - very true - but you really need to let the system rest to get fully rid of those don't you? Is this a circle back to the whole tie off the lever and let is stand over night technique?! Lol :lol:
Quote from: fj1289 on August 09, 2021, 09:22:56 AM
Noel - very true - but you really need to let the system rest to get fully rid of those don't you? Is this a circle back to the whole tie off the lever and let is stand over night technique?! Lol :lol:
....nooooooo :lol:
Quote from: ribbert on August 09, 2021, 09:40:18 AM
Quote from: fj1289 on August 09, 2021, 09:22:56 AM
Noel ..... Is this a circle back to the whole tie off the lever and let is stand over night technique?! Lol :lol:
....nooooooo :lol:
As it turns out, I was doing this very job last night after fitting a stainless steel sleeve to the slave cylinder. I used a variation on the technique, I skipped the tying the lever to the bar bit and just applied the over night component. Whaddayer know, a few pumps this morning and the clutch was perfect. :biggrin:
It's interesting to note that at 270k that was the original slave having had only one seal replacement in it's life and it wasn't currently leaking. I also removed the calipers to empty them and fill with fresh fluid, a long overdue maintenance item and replace the pads F & R (after bleeding). While I was there I scraped the crystallized brake fluid and corrosion from the top edge of the reservoir to clean up the sealing surface and washed and re-greased the speedo drive.
I have already done the fork seals and have chain, sprockets and wheel bearings to fit also. None of these items are un serviceable but they do have enormous mileages on them and I have some trips coming up.
I have been waiting for years and years for my HID headlight to die, just like everyone else's seem to do quickly, so I can go back to the more reliable LED and it just won't die. They are illegal here and I now require a Roadworthiness Certificate to convert the rego to historic vehicle registration so it has forced my hand, unfortunately, removing the fairing is no longer a simple task on my bike (which is why I haven't done it before now)
For all this work, the bike won't feel any different but will improve it's reliability.
If you leave out dot 5, an oil discussion I don't believe we've ever had is what's your fluid of choice dot 3, dot 4 or dot 5.1? ( I use dot 3 )
Noel
Oh boy - I'm sure my brake fluid choice differs from yours - but my focus is different.
For street riding - probably DOT 3 for lower moisture absorption and better suited for "normal" maintenance intervals.
BUT, my focus has been rather obsessive for the last few years on the paved land speed events. For that I'll take the higher performing DOT 4 and change it out from a fresh bottle when prepping for a big event. Better in this case for the crazy sustained heavy braking (when you manage to put a good high speed run together...)
As with everything "better" there are always compromises!
Quote from: fj1289 on August 11, 2021, 10:16:55 AM
Oh boy - I'm sure my brake fluid choice differs from yours - but my focus is different.
For street riding - probably DOT 3 for lower moisture absorption and better suited for "normal" maintenance intervals.
BUT, my focus has been rather obsessive for the last few years on the paved land speed events. For that I'll take the higher performing DOT 4 and change it out from a fresh bottle when prepping for a big event. Better in this case for the crazy sustained heavy braking (when you manage to put a good high speed run together...)
As with everything "better" there are always compromises!
Good points.
I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used.
The owners has a couple of Harley's and is building an old school straight axle big block Ford Falcon.
Anyway, I'm hoping to have time Saturday to install the carbs, fuel pump, etc. I also want to check the valves and replace the plugs, all the normal stuff.
Always enjoy your posts, thanks!
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 11, 2021, 06:54:38 PM
I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used.
Steve, is that bike running any of the original rubber hoses?
Noel
Quote from: fj1289 on August 11, 2021, 10:16:55 AM
For street riding - probably DOT 3 for lower moisture absorption and better suited for "normal" maintenance intervals.
BUT, my focus has been rather obsessive for the last few years on the paved land speed events. For that I'll take the higher performing DOT 4 and change it out from a fresh bottle when prepping for a big event. Better in this case for the crazy sustained heavy braking (when you manage to put a good high speed run together...)
As with everything "better" there are always compromises!
:good2:
Quote from: ribbert on August 13, 2021, 06:55:48 AM
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 11, 2021, 06:54:38 PM
I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used.
Steve, is that bike running any of the original rubber hoses?
Noel
Yes, they are all original.
We're not worried about it in the least.
I think I've decided on the fuel pump and controller placement.
The pump instructions suggest a 45 degree placement, and the location shown in the picture should be fine. I'll fab up a mount and call it good.
I believe the petcock is 10.5mm, hopefully 1/2" hose will fit and a on/off valve added. Next a fuel filter and another bit of hose to a 90 degree fitting on the inlet of the pump. I'm going to have to use some adapters for the variations in hose ID. Fun fun.
From the pump, another 90 degree fitting and 1/4" hose to the late model carbs.
The controller, I'm leaning toward attaching it to the battery box with Velcro Extreme.
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 14, 2021, 06:20:02 PM
Quote from: ribbert on August 13, 2021, 06:55:48 AM
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 11, 2021, 06:54:38 PM
I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used.
Steve, is that bike running any of the original rubber hoses?
Noel
Yes, they are all original.
We're not worried about it in the least.
I agree, from a safety perspective I'm not that fussed about them either (although the brakes do work much better with braided lines)
I was going to post about using dot 4 with older hoses but thought better of it.
Carry on.
Noel
Floats set, yes I torque the screws...
Diaphragms as new, all looks good.
Carbs red eye
:)
Replaced those pesky leaky valve cover bolt grommets -
Adjusted the valves, exhausts needed attention.
Oiled up everything before buttoning it up. I had forgotten what a treat it is installing that valve cover gasket.
I'm a little concerned over the air filter running on the frame on one side, will probably put a "guard" of sorts in place.
Pulser cover gasket was toast, ordered one up from RPM. At least this one was not coated with silicone gasket maker.....
Now to install the fuel pump and controller -
Question: The ignition "boost" is disconnected, any reason to connect it?
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 16, 2021, 08:20:20 AM
Question: The ignition "boost" is disconnected, any reason to connect it?
If the diaphragm passes the suck test, go ahead and hook it up...it sure will keep your plugs clean.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 16, 2021, 03:05:43 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 16, 2021, 08:20:20 AM
Question: The ignition "boost" is disconnected, any reason to connect it?
If the diaphragm passes the suck test, go ahead and hook it up...it sure will keep your plugs clean.
Thank you - I'll give it a test.
Much appreciated!
Nice work ,but you didn't forget the float needle valve on carb 1 ? i cant see it in the pictures :scratch_one-s_head:
Quote from: Old Rider on August 17, 2021, 02:44:40 AM
Nice work ,but you didn't forget the float needle valve on carb 1 ? i cant see it in the pictures :scratch_one-s_head:
Good catch - The retaining spring was missing from the float valve. I pulled one off the old carbs, cleaned it up and installed it.
I'm impressed!
Here's the old and "new" and clip
Quote from: Dads_FJ on August 02, 2021, 11:05:18 AM
This fits the bill and is the one I used on my '89.
Facet - FPF-40178N 12V, 2-3.5PSI
Many thanks!
Did you go with the stock location?
Final version, I'm not going to do it, I'd have to order 10 sets and resale would be close to $100.00 a set with shipping.
If I'm going with a simple block, I'll do it myself......
Quote from: FJ1200W on August 17, 2021, 04:31:44 PM
Quote from: Old Rider on August 17, 2021, 02:44:40 AM
Nice work ,but you didn't forget the float needle valve on carb 1 ? i cant see it in the pictures :scratch_one-s_head:
Good catch - The retaining spring was missing from the float valve. I pulled one off the old carbs, cleaned it up and installed it.
Steve i knew a good mechanic like you had full control ! :drinks:
Still working on the fuel pump placement.
It's close, but just not right.......
Facet calls for a 72 micron filter, I'll probably going with more filtration. I have a 12 micron inline, but sure don't want to restrict flow to the pump.
Made some progress today.
Petcock was nasty. Was able to carefully disassemble it, clean it and reassemble. Seems to be working. The filter, I pulled it out. I may replace the petcock all together as there is an inline filter before the pump, and an inline shut off.
Took a test ride, eff'ing valve cover gasket popped and sprayed oil all over my bare leg.
Test ride, shorts, sandals, tee shirt, no helmet, no sunglasses, it was sort of one of those moments I questioned my judgement.
I got over it.
Very good Steve, how is the fuel pump controller working out?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 03, 2021, 10:08:59 AM
Very good Steve, how is the fuel pump controller working out?
Thanks - it seems to work as it should.
I was pleased to find the tach/coil connection could be done near the ignition control box. I soldered the wire in place, will probably do the same to another I used a connector on. All of the connections were pretty straight forward.
I'm surprised how quiet the fuel pump is. I just hope it flows enough at speed.
I did connect the vaccum line to the ignition box - I've not looked to see what it does to the ignition curve - If it's just for emissions, I'll disconnect it.
Any preference?
"If" the diaphragm passes the suck test....no preference.
That extra 10* of advance when the throttle plates close, sure cleans off the plugs.
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 02, 2021, 06:45:22 PM
Took a test ride, eff'ing valve cover gasket popped and sprayed oil all over my bare leg.
Test ride, shorts, sandals, tee shirt, no helmet, no sunglasses, it was sort of one of those moments I questioned my judgement.
I got over it.
Good humor Steve what really made me LOL was the picture of the petcock filter i guess you can say that is well used .
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 02, 2021, 06:45:22 PMMade some progress today.
Took a test ride, eff'ing valve cover gasket popped and sprayed oil all over my bare leg.
Steve,
Just gotta ask, why would that happen? All pistons leak combustion gasses to some extent.
Is there no crankcase ventilation that works, with that engine? Never heard of this malfunction before.
Seems to me, if the valve cover gasket did
not blow out, then some other seals or gaskets would soon blow out instead.
Quote from: red on September 03, 2021, 08:40:17 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 02, 2021, 06:45:22 PMMade some progress today.
Took a test ride, eff'ing valve cover gasket popped and sprayed oil all over my bare leg.
Steve,
Just gotta ask, why would that happen? All pistons leak combustion gasses to some extent.
Is there no crankcase ventilation that works, with that engine? Never heard of this malfunction before.
Seems to me, if the valve cover gasket did not blow out, then some other seals or gaskets would soon blow out instead.
I've had them blow out on cars and bikes.
I'm not sure why on this instance, as it's got a very free flowing filter on the vent.
I chalk it up to "shit happens" and that I probably didn't install the gasket properly (which really pisses me off because I spent a lot of time making sure the damn thing was perfect).
In the past it usually was due to either an obstruction in the crankcase ventilation system (as you mentioned) or a really big ka-pow from the deep dark depths.....
Quote from: Old Rider on September 03, 2021, 03:48:24 PM
Good humor Steve what really made me LOL was the picture of the petcock filter i guess you can say that is well used .
"free flow race version custom modification"
Thank you!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 03, 2021, 03:23:31 PM
"If" the diaphragm passes the suck test....no preference.
That extra 10* of advance when the throttle plates close sure cleans off the plugs.
I'll test with and without.
I like the idea of clean plugs.
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 04, 2021, 08:10:08 PMI've had them blow out on cars and bikes. I'm not sure why on this instance, as it's got a very free flowing filter on the vent. I chalk it up to "shit happens" and that I probably didn't install the gasket properly (which really pisses me off because I spent a lot of time making sure the damn thing was perfect). In the past it usually was due to either an obstruction in the crankcase ventilation system (as you mentioned) or a really big ka-pow from the deep dark depths.....
Steve,
Does the crankcase oil smell like gasoline? A leaky carb (as one example) can put gasoline into the crankcase oil when parked. The oil level can increase as that happens.
Quote from: red on September 03, 2021, 08:40:17 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 02, 2021, 06:45:22 PMMade some progress today.
Took a test ride, eff'ing valve cover gasket popped and sprayed oil all over my bare leg.
Steve,
Just gotta ask, why would that happen? All pistons leak combustion gasses to some extent.
Is there no crankcase ventilation that works, with that engine? Never heard of this malfunction before.
Seems to me, if the valve cover gasket did not blow out, then some other seals or gaskets would soon blow out instead.
Red, that gasket would be the last thing to let go from crankcase pressure. If you consider it's section, how much of it sits in the groove and the finished gap between the cover and the head when tightened, no way. What ever caused it to let go, it wasn't that.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on September 04, 2021, 11:39:33 PM
Quote from: red on September 03, 2021, 08:40:17 PM
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 02, 2021, 06:45:22 PMTook a test ride, eff'ing valve cover gasket popped and sprayed oil all over my bare leg.
Red, that gasket would be the last thing to let go from crankcase pressure. If you consider it's section, how much of it sits in the groove and the finished gap between the cover and the head when tightened, no way. What ever caused it to let go, it wasn't that.
Noel
Noel,
I see . . . What was it that caused oil to "spray" all over the rider's leg?
.
I pulled the valve cover on a hunch.
Obviously my inspection did not catch it all, as now there is a weep from the front right.
Not as bad as the left rear was, but I'm going in again when time allows.
I think I'll vacuum it clean for a close inspection.
Where this came from is also on my list of things to do.....
Asking the obvious - Where did the cardboard come from under the valve cover? :pardon:
Quote from: red on September 05, 2021, 02:16:58 PM
Noel,
I see . . . What was it that caused oil to "spray" all over the rider's leg?
.
Red, not saying it wasn't leaking, just that it wouldn't be from crankcase pressure. It had a leak at the left rear corner of the valve cover gasket, right next to his leg, you don't have to go very fast or very far for the wind to "spray" that around.
Steve himself has already alluded to the most likely cause.
Noel
Quote from: fj1289 on September 05, 2021, 11:23:20 PM
Asking the obvious - Where did the cardboard come from under the valve cover? :pardon:
Hmmm.... spark plug box lid flap?
Quote from: ribbert on September 05, 2021, 11:33:30 PM
Hmmm.... spark plug box lid flap?
Yes, exactly, good call! Well done!
I went out and found the piece, compared with a box.
And then I remember, the plugs I pulled from it were the "Racing" plugs, and the box color matches, as do the markings.
My preference, the standard plugs in the yellow box.
I remove the cover again, checked and cleaned it up but found no more "garbage".
It will be fired up again and tested as soon as time allows.
Quote from: fj1289 on September 05, 2021, 11:23:20 PM
Asking the obvious - Where did the cardboard come from under the valve cover? :pardon:
Looks like Noel-it-all nailed it, as mentioned above. Very cool, I give him credit when credit is due!
I feel better knowing I didn't leave it there, it was from the last time someone removed the cover -
Which makes me think that it may not have been the cause of the leak.....
Quote from: red on September 05, 2021, 02:16:58 PM
I see . . . What was it that caused oil to "spray" all over the rider's leg?
.
That's the million dollar question.
I removed the oil cap and ran the motor, seemed to not make any difference, so crankcase pressure is out.
Could the little piece of cardboard have blocked an oil return and caused the leak, I'm not convinced.
I'm leaning towards a possibly warped valve cover, and that's why the last person to work on it used RTV on it.
So I've added a super thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black RTV to the metal surface of the valve cover and then placed the gasket into place.
Sure made it a lot easy to install.
I don't like using RTV except when called for. But I do make exceptions - and as mentioned, very very thin.
Latest, greatest, so close to the finish -
The vacuum petcock diaphram or seal went bad, leading to the #3 cylinder sucking a lot of fuel.
I'm looking at options -
Man, that bike was spitting out raw fuel like no bike I've ever seen.
Smelled great, I need to freshen up that fuel.......
I believe the tiny flat o-ring type seal on the vacuum side was missing and that caused the fuel to feed direct into ole number three.
I attempted to make one from an old carb gasket, but don't trust it.
I'm confused...why are you dicking around the vacuum petcock? That's a major point of converting to a fuel pump, no more worries with the vacuum petcock. Leave it open all the time, just like the '88-95 FJ's.
Your fuel pump stops the flow of fuel when shut off, correct?
We did mention that was an important feature for fuel pumps.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 10, 2021, 12:17:08 AM
I'm confused...why are you dicking around the vacuum petcock? That's a major point of converting to a fuel pump, no more worries with the vacuum petcock. Leave it open all the time, just like the '88-95 FJ's.
Your fuel pump stops the flow of fuel when shut off, correct?
We did mention that was an important feature for fuel pumps.
Yeah, yeah, I know, I wanted to try it and didn't think it would cause me the headaches it did.
On multiple levels, I have a low tolerance for solvents, they give me a headache quickly.
It made it simpler to remove the fuel line from the tank.
I installed a go-kart fuel tank on the tail to do some test rides.
The legroom sucked and the seat was way too hard. I felt old, my right leg started cramping up, getting old sure isn't for kids -
Anyway, the bike runs better than it has any right too - can't wait to put the tank and seat on and take it for a real ride!
I didn't open it up too much, no helmet, no gloves, no gear, I did wear sunglasses.
The clutch and/or hydraulics seemed to react to the heat, making nuetral hard to find, I need to check that, ideas?
And the brakes are marginal. Forks leak. It needs more work, but running, I got it running!
Lol. Were you atleast wearing shorts and flip flops.
Quote from: giantkiller on September 10, 2021, 04:30:31 PM
Lol. Were you atleast wearing shorts and flip flops.
Valid point!
I'm gearing up with the tank and saddle are back on - The tires are old and hard, so nothing too radical.
Oh, Dan knows all about riding with old hard tires....lol
Yah. First time I actually drifted a bike. Was actually kinda fun..
Wasn't trying to. No effort. Very little throttle.
I've ridden on old tires before..those suckers were rock hard!
Enjoyed a 20+ mile ride on the bike, it's a beast.
Minor toothing issues - the clutch started tightening up to the point it slipped under full throttle.
Gutted the petcock, the old diaphrams were bad, I should have checked them closer.
The surfaced were touched up to make them as flat as possible, hopefully to avoid a leak. All screws were locktited on the petcock, it should be good.
Initially had a big of garbage in the fuel, luckily the filter is easily cleaned.
Overall a great day.
Good on ya Steve....yea, the (real) fuel filter is the way to go....if you need a fuel pump to pull the fuel through the filter media, so be it.......Alas, our fuel tanks aren't getting any younger....
Can you imagine any of that crap getting into your carbs?
Always nice to find fun parts.
Noticed the wire still in place. Removed it, the thin place and the spacers. Replaced with a full oem plate.
Cleaned the clutch master, there was a little gunk in two corners. Bled the clutch system again. I do think a bubble came out, as it's working very well now.
The bikes a beast, feel quicker than my '89
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 11, 2021, 04:17:48 PM
Can you imagine any of that crap getting into your carbs?
No, that would be bad, in the biblical sense.
Close -
The owner showed up on his Harley.
I asked him to ride the FJ
The owner stopped by for a test ride.
He seemed quite pleased !
Clutch slave had just been rebuilt - but I decided to check it anyway and I have kits laying around.
Tomorrow I will try and bleed it.
My cries may be heard around the world ...
Great stuff Steve ! i Now see what you meant about timing :smile: I have just installed and bled the master and slave in the writeup.Im no expert ,but found that the bleeding will go faster when priming both master and slave before installing to get most air out..
Phuck phuck phuuucking hydraulic clutch.....
I'm starting to think the ball bearing fell out when I replace the pushrod seal
But if so, the phuck phuck phuuucking hydraulic clutch would phuck phuck phuuucking work when bench tested -
I'm starting to thing the slave is bad, I have another, somewhere.
Now it's almost time to attended a celebration of life for the wife of a man I used to ride with, way back in the last century.
She was really cool, laid back, I can't remember her ever bitching much about anything I did.
Well, other than that time I drove (car) through their small front yard, drunk, spun around the tree once, followed by a Caddy........
Anyway -
Her and her husband crashed once on his old KZ1000 Mk II - That was a nice bike. He has since moved on to Harleys, and I'm good with that. She would still ride with him.
That KZ1000, with individual air cleaners, had enough space under the tank for 6+ beers with ice.
We had to fill it often.
Kenny and I would ride like total and complete @ssholes, passing on the shoulder, splitting traffic, passing people at speeds well in excess of the ton, while riding with oncoming traffic, us on the middle line, stupid stuff for the day, mild by todays standards.
Boy those old bikes sounded good with open megaphones on the V&H and race baffles in his Kerker.
Loud pipes must truly save lives because I'm still here.
Kim is not, she survived a high speed wreck as a passenger on that KZ, raised twin daughters, put up with Kenny, she was an angel.
She's in a better place, I have no doubt.
Cancer finally got her.
I'm not letting this clutch get me.......
1) Remove the bleeder port.
2) Fill slave with fluid. Pour fluid into slave.
3) Reinstall bleeder port, leave port open.
4) Put hose on bleeder nipple to catch fluid that squirts out.
5) Reinstall slave on bike. (Port open)
6) Close bleeder port.
7) Finish bleeding and residual air.
Fun story remind me of my youth driving with outside of helmet instead of whats inside .
Those kwakas was and are still great.I once was thinking of building a replica of this but it never happened
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2O9kvpQRp4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2O9kvpQRp4) guess you never seen this clip before :biggrin:
Condolance for Kim cancer sucks i lost 3 family members from it.
About the ball try using a long magnet stick maybe. Do what Father Pat says and be patient
If just bleeding is the problem try holding in the clutch lever while the bike is running for about five minutes . It works every time for me.
Made time to wrap up the clutch bleed and take the beast on a 87.1 mile ride.
Glitch free!
The shifting is a little tight - I used some surplus Amsoil 10W-50 and oil makes a difference on these bikes, I've learned.
Tach quit working, I need to figure that out.
We made several stops, it was a great time.
We even ran into my father in the middle of nowhere - what are the odds?
The Harley never had a chance in any performance comparison.
Making it even "funner"
Took the bike apart a bit to check the wiring, and I think the tach itself is bad.
Speedometer cable broke, but a little marine shrink tubing seems to have fixed it.
Fabricated a little panel to cover some damage.
These bikes are fun to work on.
Other than the little nick shown above, the wiring all looks AOK.
Let me know if you see anything otherwise
Put a new power port in, and found the pic of the broken speedometer retaining nut thing ...
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 23, 2021, 09:57:49 PMTook the bike apart a bit to check the wiring, and I think the tach itself is bad.
Speedometer cable broke, but a little marine shrink tubing seems to have fixed it.
Fabricated a little panel to cover some damage.
FJ1200W,
Damaged wiring insulation can be repaired with brush-on liquid insulation "cream" AKA Liquid Electrical Tape in a bottle, with a brush in the lid. Auto parts stores or electrical supply houses will have it. Let it dry overnight before any further tinkering.
You can replace damaged or missing electrical cable sheathing with Spiral-Wrap, which comes as a number of materials (very hard or somewhat soft), and in many different sizes.
You can also use Spiral-Wrap to provide new abrasion protection at places where the stock wiring harness is in harm's way.
Metal-bearing Spiral-Wrap can protect wiring from heat sources, as needed.
You can use Split-Sleeve cable sheathing over harness wiring, and cover it with Spiral-Wrap, for extra protection.
Electronics supply shops and the better computer-hardware suppliers will have varieties of Spiral-Wrap.
Amazon has all of this stuff, if you do not have a local retail source.
New FJ speedometer cables are still available and inexpensive.
Most instrument failures on the FJ are the results of poor electrical connections, not the instrument. Check all wiring terminal connections to the panel and instruments, and do not hesitate to run a dedicated new ground wire to the tach, right over the old one, connected to a solid grounding point.
.
Quote from: red on September 23, 2021, 10:49:10 PM
New FJ speedometer cables are still available and inexpensive.
Most instrument failures on the FJ are the results of poor electrical connections, not the instrument. Check all wiring terminal connections to the panel and instruments, and do not hesitate to run a dedicated new ground wire to the tach, right over the old one, connected to a solid grounding point.
.
Good food for thought - thank you!
Speedo cable repair worked great - layers of marine grade shrink tube, better than new.
I used electrical tape on that nick, quick and easy. I have been wanting to buy some of the liquid tape, thanks again for the reminder.
The bike is back together and rode well today. It feels so much quicker than mine, it's a rocketdship.
The tach is needed - I'll try and tear it down this weekend.
Start work to fairing off, what do you think, 15 minutes?
Quote from: FJ1200W on September 24, 2021, 08:57:47 PMStart work to fairing off, what do you think, 15 minutes?
FJ1200W,
Sounds about right. On my 1985, there are four bolts that attach the cowling to the STAY2 (P/N 3SK-28359-00-00 on the 1989), and two small screws near the rear. Disconnect some electrical connectors as needed, and the cowling can flip off, going forward. Not sure, on the instrument panel assembly.
Stripped it down again this morning.
Didn't find anything odd, still thinking it's the gauge.
I'll double check pictures for solder failures/cc
racks.
I thought the speedo cable broke, but it was the front wheel off the ground - this one runs strong!
Clutch is still a little wonky. I think the metal plates are warped.
Rest time.....
The solder joint of the black wire on the back of the PC board looks like a cold solder joint and also looks dull and corroded. The screw connections on the back also have a good amount of rust and should be cleaned up . I have had a bad tach that I replaced three times before I found one that worked . The bad ones would not work at all most of the time but occasionally they would start working for short periods of time but would read inaccurately when they did. I started by cleaning wire connections but only the third tach I tried solved the problem. You should also grease where the speedometer cable attaches while you are in there.
For anybody not handy with a soldering iron, two tips:
Cut down a common kitchen sponge to fit into a very shallow glass jar. Cut a small hole in the center of the sponge. Wet the sponge with water, before soldering starts. Wipe the hot soldering iron tip to be clean and shiny, inside the hole in the sponge. Then add fresh solder to the hot tip, and start in on the job. Any time one minute has passed on the work, clean the tip in the sponge and use fresh solder again. Close the jar with the lid, when not in use.
Rosin flux is lame. Acid fluxes will destroy electronic boards. Use La-Co flux. It is a (safe, NON-acid) paste, and it washes away with water, not chemicals or solvents. Do not leave any fluxes on your finished work. The smallest container (US$5) of this flux will last you for years. Amazon and many plumbing places will have it.
https://www.amazon.com/22101-Regular-Soldering-Flux-Paste/dp/B005EO2HS0/ (https://www.amazon.com/22101-Regular-Soldering-Flux-Paste/dp/B005EO2HS0/)
.
Hello Whats up with the handlebar rubbers :smile: maybe they are too thick so the lever not get full travel ? is it the rpm gauge or speedometer gauge that is not working? i have a american
speedometer in miles here i can send you
Quote from: Old Rider on September 26, 2021, 03:53:29 PM
Hello Whats up with the handlebar rubbers :smile: maybe they are too thick so the lever not get full travel ? is it the rpm gauge or speedometer gauge that is not working? i have a american
speedometer in miles here i can send you
Those are some grips, aren't they! I was thinking about replacing them but where would you ever find another set like them! Period correct for the last century!
Tachometer is inoperative.
Colin sent me a picture of a parts bike moments ago -
Thanks for the commentary!
Busted my FJ out for a bit.
I don't want what I am about to say to sound "wrong" but here I go - re: Colins bike.
Pulled the slave -
I looked up in the pushrod hole for a ball.
There is not one in there, I'm thinking it's only removable from the other side.
Grips: Replaced
When you have the clutch pack out pull the little pushrod on the clutch cover side of the input shaft. Take a magnet and stick it down the hole. If the ball is there it should come out with the magnet.
Since you have two bikes at your disposal - you have two clutch pushrods. That should be plenty long to push the ball out from one side to the other....or at least prove to yourself it is or is not there.
Quote from: fj1289 on September 27, 2021, 09:34:14 PM
Since you have two bikes at your disposal - you have two clutch pushrods. That should be plenty long to push the ball out from one side to the other....or at least prove to yourself it is or is not there.
Good idea.
Busted my FJ out for a pretty good ride, a little under a couple hundred miles.
No helmet law in Missouri anymore, and this was my first "good" ride without one.
My bike seemed so smooth, stealthier than Colin's. Both run like FJ's, but I'm thinking his is quicker.
'ucking awesome day to be riding. So grateful to be able too.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on September 27, 2021, 04:50:26 PM
When you have the clutch pack out pull the little pushrod on the clutch cover side of the input shaft. Take a magnet and stick it down the hole. If the ball is there it should come out with the magnet.
Will do, plates are due here Friday.
Thanks - and I wore the RPM shirt on todays ride!
No pictures of said shirt though......
Ah ha!
Holy burnt up clutch steel Batman! Are those bad boys warped?
Pull that down. That appears to some brand of aftermarket, "Kevlar" friction on the front. Followed by a smooth steel floater plate. If they are all kevlar and smooth, then throw all that stuff away.
Make sure you get to that last friction under the snap ring too.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 01, 2021, 06:06:32 PM
Pull that down. That appears to some brand of aftermarket, "Kevlar" friction on the front. Followed by a smooth steel floater plate. If they are all kevlar and smooth, then throw all that stuff away.
Make sure you get to that last friction under the snap ring too.
Randy - RPM
Thanks for the tips!
Yes, the old one was roached
I went through my stock Yamaha fiber plate stash and found a set that are all 2.97mm or better. Min is 2.8mm I believe.
The Kevlar plates were all in the mid to upper 2.8's.
You have to love these clutches. So quick and easy to work on!
Report: Missing handlebar riser cap or plug, I am not sure what the term for it is at the moment.
One was still in place, but loose. A small dab of rtv will fix that.
RPM's superior product comes machined for and with an o-ring to eliminate this problem.
A high performance cover was acquired, installed and it should dramatically reduce track times.
Busted out the bikes today, they're both running so well.
I'm ready for Colin to pick his up so I can start on mine.
I was able to squeeze 44 mpg out of my '89, which is better than normal.
Colin's '86, about 34 mpg, but I've been admittedly heavier on the throttle!
I like the high performance cover ! also good choice with the foamgrips i had a few of them ,but not on the fj dont last too long .They soak water and get wet but give i nice feeling .Soapy water and stubborn force gets them in place :good:
Quote from: Old Rider on October 19, 2021, 09:22:31 AM
I like the high performance cover ! also good choice with the foamgrips i had a few of them ,but not on the fj dont last too long .They soak water and get wet but give i nice feeling .Soapy water and stubborn force gets them in place :good:
Thanks - and those grips, they are "NOS" which makes me think they'll not last long, due to sheer age. I've used them for decades, you're right, they have their up's and downs.
One of the best tricks ever learned was using compressed air to remove old grips, works so well.
Colin said he bought a gauge set (his tach has quit working) from someone in the UK. Not sure why he went that far, but some questions I don't ask, I'm just the wrench. As soon as it arrives, I'll throw it in and try to get his bike out so I can start on mine - and then another buddy has a GL650 that needs a quadruple bipass.
I'm hoping to run the bikes side by side next week. If so, I'll post the real world results.
Good times
Even the house repairs..... My father has had multiple floods over the years. He finally bit the bullet and had a demo crew come in and remove the molded drywall, carpet. They cleaned and disinfected. Now we've applied a coat of sealer over it all, Kilz. The water issue should be resolved, and now, well, I'll be a drywaller for a while......
FJ's at The Big Bur Oak Tree
Colin dropped off the replacement tachometer moments ago.
Disassembling the cluster, I had to think about it.
Threaded, not pressed.
Decided to install the new used gauge cluster.
Took about a half an hour to strip the bike down.
The old gauge set (bottom in pic) had a bad tachometer.
Installed the replacements, noticed a few differences.
Different top speed.
White needles vs red.
Put the bike back together, fired it up, tachometer works great.
Wish the same could be said for the neutral light.
Bet it's the bulb....
Happy Thanksgiving!
So the bike just could not go back with the neutral light.
I tore it down last night and if you can replace the meter bulbs without removing the meter, you're a better tech than I.
The 1st bulb to be replaced was the neutral light, and much to my surprise, there was no bulb there.
Whatever. Now we know why it didn't work.
Four other bulbs were bad, so all of them were replaced.
12v 3.4w Stanley #158 mini wedge miniature bulb, for those wondering "I wonder what kind of a bulb it was".
Suzuki part number 09471-12028
The 09471-12082 are the same bulb, but "HD" or "Long Life" and those I'll put in my FJ.
The 9471-12077 is a half dimmer, 1.7w vs 3.4w
As luck would have it, I found these buried in a tote full of parts.
I have too many parts, but at times like this, I'm grateful.
Shifting gears -
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We lost a young man far too early.
Skylar and I worked together at a powersports dealer, and he found the ultimate position in a smaller, local shop.
He just returned, with the entire crew of the shop, from a "business" trip to Daytona Beach. Sure looks like everyone had more than a fun time.
Then this -
Godspeed Skylar
https://www.komu.com/news/midmissourinews/columbia-woman-charged-in-fatal-hit-and-run-on-providence-road/article_3d87cb1a-52c9-11ec-8586-a7b68e6b4d4f.html (https://www.komu.com/news/midmissourinews/columbia-woman-charged-in-fatal-hit-and-run-on-providence-road/article_3d87cb1a-52c9-11ec-8586-a7b68e6b4d4f.html)
Hopefully finished.
Still more to do, but I've done all I want.
I did wire the fuel pump into the fuel reserve switch by the chock knob.
Should be able to flip it off and run the carbs dry.
Oh, JIS bit worked flawlessly on the nearly stripped choke retaining screw.
Great stuff mate! :good2:
Thank you, the owner has been super patient
He rides a Harley but does down this FJ and three more as well
Quote from: FJ1200W on December 19, 2021, 11:18:42 PM
Thank you, the owner has been super patient
He rides a Harley but does down this FJ and three more as well
Hey Steve, how come no fuel line clips?
Noel
Good question Noel.
There is one clip at the fuel pump, that's where I want the line removed there, so the other connections are difficult.
I did use the removable clamps on the filter though, making it removable.
Sure is fast and easy to remove and install.
One does have to make sure the shut off valve stays off -
Oh, I connect the fuel valve with zip strips to the frame where I've added a silicone bumper.
I do that just to keep it from working around.
Even with the wires protected at wear points, I like the added security of a secured fuel line.
Time to replace the factory petcock.
Phucker leaked.
Luckily not while being ridden.
Amazing how those filters swell when soaked by gas.
So here is my $40 solution.
New petcock is installed, I went out today and replaced the fuel line, removing the 2nd valve and tidy things up.
I noticed one of the pod air filters had distorted from earlier fuel contact, to the point I'm wanting to replace it.
Advise?
I'm not sure why they would not be fuel resistant, no matter.
His forks and triple clamps might be my next project, I dunno, one other bike to fix for another and then I'm "free"!
Here is the filter we had the problem with.
Fuel dripped on the "rubber" portion of the filter, causing it to swelled up.
The problem was the swollen filter would not stay on the carburetor.
We tried using hose clamps over a period of days to re-shrink it, and it helped, just not enough.
Local unleaded alcohol free premium on this one.
Try spraying some hairspray into the cap from the can. Then spread some around the inside of the filter and maybe some around the outside of the carb throat. Gently attach it - just e nouns to let the hair spray "tack up" with the filter in place. The next day snug the filter clamp down - don't over tighten or it generally wants to squeeze the filter off. This is sort of like the old trick of using hairspray to install new handlebar grips. With luck and heat and time, maybe the rubber will shrink back down a bit!
Quote from: fj1289 on May 19, 2022, 06:04:16 PM
Try spraying some hairspray into the cap from the can. Then spread some around the inside of the filter and maybe some around the outside of the carb throat. Gently attach it - just e nouns to let the hair spray "tack up" with the filter in place. The next day snug the filter clamp down - don't over tighten or it generally wants to squeeze the filter off. This is sort of like the old trick of using hairspray to install new handlebar grips. With luck and heat and time, maybe the rubber will shrink back down a bit!
Worth a try, thanks!
I know boiling in hot water will reshape rubber that has swollen in gasoline.i have done it on carbfloat gaskets and some other things i cant remember now .Not sure if i can recomend it on your podfilters do it at own risk...