Hello all!
I recently became a FJ owner after finding an '86 FJ1200 tucked away and forgotten in the back of a mattress store - you can find my initial observations once getting in the garage here:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19795.msg202538#msg202538. (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19795.msg202538#msg202538.)
My goal: To get this bike safe and sport touring ready
The good news is I was able to get the bike running STRONGLY after some fresh fuel and oil, a new battery and a wash - so this will be more of a refresh then a full on restoration (
My Honda hawk was a rough one so I am glad to say that :wacko2:)
Here is the current parts list I have ordered for to install on the bike (many thanks RPM):
- Brake lines
- Tires - Pirelli Sport Demons
- EK Chain
- Fork Seals/Wipers
- Fresh Battery
- Spin on oil filter adapter
- Magnetic Drain plug
- Handlebar Grips
- The Blessed Haynes Manual
- Clutch Line
- Throttle line
- Rear Blinkers
These of course were from the first casual inspection - more below:
Deeper inspection:
Its got as fancy Super Trapp exhaust - I've heard these can be hit or miss - it seems to sound a little snotty but not so bad.
There is some electronic ignition attached - I am unfamiliar with these unfamiliar with these units - and the wiring seems to be somewhat of a cob job.
I need to do some more research on this and I need to see exactly why there is so many loose plugs - it looks like someone with a smooth brain got at it.
You can see my own solder work here for the gas level sensor wires - this is temporary until I can get a new 3 pin connector - the old one had just about rusted out
The plastics:
A little rough around the edges - but savable - after a serious cleaning the shine came through.
The belly pan though... lets say its seen better days - I will be looking into potential repairs on this(fiberglass and plastifix come to mind).
That is where the bike stands as of now with one afternoon with work.
I look forward to seeing other people's builds and seeking the sage advice from the brains on this forum!
have a great day and thanks for looking.
If nobody has told you yet, welcome aboard. You will discover, as did I, that having a support network like this makes the task of keeping an old Japanese motorcycle on the road much easier and cheaper then it otherwise would be. The tool rental is a hell of a resource, that I have already used.
There are updates to the wheels, tires, brakes and electrical systems that make the bikes head and shoulders above what they were. My bike was heavily altered, and I wasn't sure about buying a modified bike at first, but, it has been a pleasure. It was a three state road trip to get it, right at the lock down, an adventure my son and I will never forget. I had a bunch of work to do when it got here, but, the guys here made that much easier. Come spring, I have an oil change, clutch master cylinder rebuild, carb sync, 4 new plugs and compression test to do, hopefully followed by many trouble free miles this summer.
Enjoy. Always run an issue past these guys, first, they have likely seen it before.
Ted
My son with the new-to-us 1989 FJ, in the middle of Missouri, just before we loaded up and headed back to Minnesota.
(https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/63037_600x400.jpg) (https://www.jpgbox.com/page/63037_600x400/)
Quote from: Ted Schefelbein on March 20, 2021, 10:18:24 PM
If nobody has told you yet, welcome aboard...
Well said and hugely agree - I am a younger guy so I unfortunately wasn't around when these bikes were in their prime. I come to all bike specific forums for advice of the members. Thankfully - unlike my other bikes this seems relatively tame and parts seem to be readily available - and like all vintage Japanese bike owners we are enthusiastic!
I'm hoping to not have to take the carbs out and the clutch apart - but I am prepared to - but until an issue arises - best not to let the magic out!
Welcome! Love the rescue project. This group has a lot of information. If you have trouble finding the Dyna 2000 ignition manual let me know. I have one.
And not saying our bikes are the same but after my tear down I noticed a handful of unplugged connectors. All of them had a good reason and a modification. But it's hard to know unless it was your mod. Over time you'll figure it out as you tidy it up. The wiring diagrams were very helpful, but overall the harness is pretty tame on this bike.
Happy riding!
Jacob
That type of extensive belly pan damage is often caused by a leaking clutch slave cylinder. One of many things you can parts from RPM for.
Welcome in Jake.......as others have said there's a wealth of knowledge and experience with these bikes here on the forum. I'm sure you'll get the bike in tip top condition and be out enjoying lots of trouble-free miles before too long.
The only thing I'd add to what everyone else has said is.......hot staple gun........brilliant for repairing plastics, with a bit of plastifix/plastex/fibreglass thrown in for good measure.
You should see what AviationFred managed to do with a hot stapler when fixing his broken FJ fairing...it was awesome :good2:
Here's me and my 89 FJ in Jan's ("2Big" on here) garage last summer, with his project FJ peeking out from behind my bike. I've had mine from new, but did a refresh and a few extra upgrades 3 years ago.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_20_07_20_8_07_45.jpeg)
Quote from: RevDeal on March 21, 2021, 05:37:30 AM
Welcome! Love the rescue project. This group has a lot of information. If you have trouble finding the Dyna 2000 ignition manual let me know.
Thanks Jacob! I dont know much about electronic ignitions so any info would be much appreciated - right now it starts and runs well! so I'd rather not mess it with haha.
Is this unit to replace one that originally came on the bike? or is it a complete add-on?
Quote from: Motofun on March 21, 2021, 07:02:29 AM
That type of extensive belly pan damage is often caused by a leaking clutch slave cylinder. One of many things you can parts from RPM for.
Indeed - I've made a thin metallic layer I am going to use to support the bodypan and use some fiberglass to lay over to support it. I think I am going to plastifix some of the other issues and use a filler.
I'll take a look at the clutch slave cylinder and see if its leaking.. fingers crossed it isnt!
Quote from: Millietant on March 21, 2021, 05:11:50 PM
Welcome in Jake.......as others have said there's a wealth of knowledge and experience with these bikes here on the forum. I'm sure you'll get the bike in tip top condition and be out enjoying lots of trouble-free miles before too long.
Wow! after some videos looking at them those are pretty neat tools - I wish i knew about it long before!
Love the two tone white on silver with red accents! Keep it rocking!
Some other goodies from RPM on the way:
- 90* valve stems
- New Levers
- Petcock Rebuild Kit
- Choke Assembly Kit
- Fairing bolt kit
- Vintage Connections electric repair Kit
- Wheel Bearing and Seal kit front and rear
While the bike does run - I want it safe and steady and running at its best!
Belly pan repair:
So with the damaged belly pan fairing - my primary issue is the fact it was split apart and had major cracking on the sides.
A thin metal piece was cut, bent and riveted in for support and strength - and fiberglass patching was used on the sides for additional support.
I apologize - its not my prettiest work but I think it its strong enough to hold the damn thing together long enough for me to find (or make?) a replacement?
If anyone knows good replacements for these pieces that dont cost an arm or leg let me know.
Edit: I apologize - for some reason photos coming through get weirdly compressed and blurry any way to fix this?
New ones are available from the FJOC in the U.K. For a reasonable price (£89 I think) in gloss back or white fibreglass.
Not sure how much it would be with postage /shipping to you.
Randy at RPM may still have one or two left. They are fiberglass after market (white). Drill and paint as required.
All,
I might be going insane - but I have a 36mm on a 1/2 inch impact driver turning it lefty loosey to get it off - no dice.
Any tips?
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on March 30, 2021, 05:18:40 PM
All,
I might be going insane - but I have a 36mm on a 1/2 inch impact driver turning it lefty loosey to get it off - no dice.
Any tips?
apply the rear brake by sitting on the bike or with a piece of wood jamming the pedal down also you can put a piece of wood thru the wheel over the svingarm. If there is a lock washer
(I cant see one in the picture) bend the tabs down then use a long arm wrench while sitting on the bike with your heel pressing on the rearbrake . Or just use impact driver .
Sometimes people has used loctite on the frontsprocet nut....bit i would not use a torchflame to free it because of the chain o-rings and the transmission seal
When replacing use a new lock washer place some grease on the splines and torque to 85NM.
It looks like you need a new frontsprocket too
Quote from: Old Rider on March 31, 2021, 05:30:29 AM
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on March 30, 2021, 05:18:40 PM
All,
I might be going insane - but I have a 36mm on a 1/2 inch impact driver turning it lefty loosey to get it off - no dice.
Any tips?
apply the rear brake by sitting on the bike....
Yeah! I tried a bunch of tricks - eventually I used the 2x4 jammed against the rear wheel and that did the trick. No lock washer and not torch!
Yep - sprockets coming out, new sprockets and chain for sure!
Just out of interest, what sprocket teeth numbers did you go with - did you stay stock 17/40, or change them ?
Quote from: Millietant on April 01, 2021, 05:05:33 AM
Just out of interest, what sprocket teeth numbers did you go with - did you stay stock 17/40, or change them ?
I bumped up to 41 teeth in the rear - I doubt it will make much of a difference.
Speaking of rear sprocket... two of the rear sprocket nuts were completely round :dash2: very fun to deal with...
good news: wheels are off the bike to get swapped - forks are off to get rebuilt. Before they go back I'll be placing all the new lines in there.
Hmm.........interesting, unusual choice for a 1200 :good2: a
Quote from: Millietant on April 01, 2021, 09:58:57 AM
Hmm.........interesting, unusual choice for a 1200 :good2: a
Instead of looking for 6th gear, he'll be looking for 7th!
The bike looks great!
Quote from: Millietant on April 01, 2021, 09:58:57 AM
Hmm.........interesting, unusual choice for a 1200 :good2: a
It mighttttt have been possible I ordered the wrong size on accident. Lets just pretend I did it on purpose :yes: not my brightest moment.
I cant see it making that much of a difference - maybe 5 mph more? If it feels really sluggish it will be the first to go.
also on the fun side: when swapping the grips out - the internal keying for the bar end was also rounded out (thanks previous owner) a ratchet strap did the trick and a new set is in the mail.
so it turns out basically all motorcycle shops in the region are about 2 months out to change tires - which leaves me on my own for swapping them out.
Cant be too hard... right?
No worries....You'll be fine with the 17/41 combo....my '84 came stock with a 17/42 set.
Do not go cheap on your chain. Get the best of the best. A bit more $$ at the start but cheaper in the long run.
FJ's eat cheap chains for breakfast.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 01, 2021, 11:15:29 AM
No worries....You'll be fine with the 17/41 combo....my '84 came stock with a 17/42 set.
Do not go cheap on your chain. Get the best of the best. A bit more $$ at the start but cheaper in the long run.
FJ's eat cheap chains for breakfast.
Completely agree - you trust your life to these machines, part failure mid corner can lead to a good case of the nasties.
I ran with a EK SRX2 chain from revzilla - I've had luck with EK chains before and it fits in nice on the sprockets (at least while its off the bike)
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/ek-chain-530-srx2-chain?sku_id=1272108 (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/ek-chain-530-srx2-chain?sku_id=1272108)
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 01, 2021, 10:57:48 AM
so it turns out basically all motorcycle shops in the region are about 2 months out to change tires - which leaves me on my own for swapping them out.
Cant be too hard... right?
I've been doing it for years. I bought a little balancer years ago also. I've taught my kid how to do it.
A quick view of my balancer:
https://youtu.be/_x1eE5tipj4 (https://youtu.be/_x1eE5tipj4)
My teenager changing his own tyres:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6694_01_04_21_10_35_46_0.jpeg)
I suspect your sprocket choice will be fine. It will give you slightly lower gearing so that should improve the acceleration a bit. You may be RPM limited to 146 MPH or so.
Yeah, believe it or not, not EVERYONE on this site is looking for FJR-like touring RPMs!
Quote from: fj1289 on April 01, 2021, 02:50:04 PM
Yeah, believe it or not, not EVERYONE on this site is looking for FJR-like touring RPMs!
^^^ Said the man with the fastest FJ in the world.... :good:
... but I think quite a lot of us are looking for 6th gear.
Quote from: Waiex191 on April 01, 2021, 03:28:20 PM
... but I think quite a lot of us are looking for 6th gear.
From what I hear about these bikes, I'll be happy to make it through 2nd :wacko1:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 01, 2021, 03:14:11 PM
Quote from: fj1289 on April 01, 2021, 02:50:04 PM
Yeah, believe it or not, not EVERYONE on this site is looking for FJR-like touring RPMs!
^^^ Said the man with the fastest FJ in the world.... :good:
Not yet! Still working at it!
Quote from: Waiex191 on April 01, 2021, 03:28:20 PM
... but I think quite a lot of us are looking for 6th gear.
I understand! But, remember the spread between 1st and 5th on our bikes is actually BIGGER than the spread between 1st and 6th on a Hayabusa! Now, there are aftermarket ratios available for the Busa transmissions for 6th and even 5th gears if you have the power for the speed....
Quote from: fj1289 on April 01, 2021, 07:33:36 PM
Quote from: Waiex191 on April 01, 2021, 03:28:20 PM
... but I think quite a lot of us are looking for 6th gear.
I understand! But, remember the spread between 1st and 5th on our bikes is actually BIGGER than the spread between 1st and 6th on a Hayabusa! Now, there are aftermarket ratios available for the Busa transmissions for 6th and even 5th gears if you have the power for the speed....
I was hoping someone other than me would raise this point. I never really believe anyone looks for 6th gear on an FJ, why would you, it's not there! I think it's just a bit of throw away line, and as Chris points out, the Busa and most other 6 speeds are crammed into a shorter range anyway.
In a quarter of million recreational km's on the FJ over the last 11 years I've never looked for another gear, 6th gear only offers 300-400 rpm drop at highway speeds on most bikes anyway. I have four 1200cc road bikes in my garage, 3 of them are 6 speed and one is 5 speed (FJ). I love the gear box on the FJ, there is never any doubt
which gear I'm in, never any doubt which gear I
should be in and never any wish for another gear, either on the way through or at the end,
the 5 speed is matched perfectly to the engine power and torque, I can't say that about the 6 speed bikes I own or the ones I've ridden, sometimes they feel like a manual shift CVT. Even MotoGP bikes only have 6 gears and they win and lose championships by 1000's of a second, there's only so much splitting of ratios you need, and after all, the FJ is a road bike.
I sometimes wonder if manufacturers bowed to market pressure on this score, I seriously find 6 gears too close together and it's easy to find myself half a gear to high or half a gear too low, or even worse, undecided. If you think about the role of a gearbox, more gears is not necessarily better, there is a point of diminishing returns.
FJR's offer an unusual opportunity in that you can ride what is essentially the same bike with 5
or 6 gears, for the astute rider who has compared the two, the 5 speed seems to be the favourite.
Noel
Actually I'm always looking for 6th not because I want lower RPMs. The FJ motor is awesome and it never feels like it's in top gear as I'm running through them. So I often try to shift into the 6th gear that is not there. Probably because I don't ride as much as I used to. I do agree the gearing is great as it is.
You can have 6th if you really want it. Just depends on how much you're willing to pay.
https://www.novaracing.co.uk/ProductYamahaFJ12006SpeedCloseRatioGearbox.html (https://www.novaracing.co.uk/ProductYamahaFJ12006SpeedCloseRatioGearbox.html)
I'm just always looking for it, I don't really want it! That is cool though.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on April 02, 2021, 10:18:20 AM
You can have 6th if you really want it. Just depends on how much you're willing to pay.
https://www.novaracing.co.uk/ProductYamahaFJ12006SpeedCloseRatioGearbox.html (https://www.novaracing.co.uk/ProductYamahaFJ12006SpeedCloseRatioGearbox.html)
Well, with today's exchange rate that would buy about 900 pounds of nitrous - then the problem becomes how much smaller can I go on the rear sprocket!
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 01, 2021, 10:57:48 AM
Quote from: Millietant on April 01, 2021, 09:58:57 AM
Hmm.........interesting, unusual choice for a 1200 :good2: a
It mighttttt have been possible I ordered the wrong size on accident. Lets just pretend I did it on purpose :yes: not my brightest moment.
I cant see it making that much of a difference - maybe 5 mph more? If it feels really sluggish it will be the first to go.
Going for a 41 tooth on the rear (up from 40) won't make any noticeable difference to the performance - it will make it a teeny bit more sprightly in top gear as at 70 mph it will be revving about 100 RPM's higher than with the standard 40 tooth on. In the real world, none of us would be able to detect the difference by the seat of our pants.
I always know which gear I'm in, but having done quite a bit of higher speed cruising, I prefer the 18/38 combo which reduces the RPM's at 85 mph just enough to put the mechanical "feel" of the bike at that speed in sync with my brain..........it's a purely personal thing and everyone is different on this front - but universally it seems, no one has ever said the FJ is short of top gear "grunt" as standard :sarcastic: :good2:
Quote
I suspect your sprocket choice will be fine. It will give you slightly lower gearing so that should improve the acceleration a bit. You may be RPM limited to 146 MPH or so.
Shoot - and there goes my opportunity to pull a ton and a half on my commute!
So the tires off, forks off, chains off, tanks off - waiting on a couple buddies with some beers to come over and help with the forks/tires.
in the meantime - Took the opportunity to repair several chips off the front fender with some fiberglass patches on the underside!
All,
I come to you with two humble requests:
1.) Is there any trick to bleeding completely fresh brake lines - I've heard of reverse bleeding (pumping fluid from bottom up) but has anyone tried it?
2.) Does anyone know the correct color combination of the wires coming from the tank? the connection on mine was so rusty the pins popped out and it doesnt look like the colors directly correspond. I have a replacement 3 pin plug to use but don't want to hook up the wrong wires.
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 07, 2021, 08:41:33 AM
1.) Is there any trick to bleeding completely fresh brake lines - I've heard of reverse bleeding (pumping fluid from bottom up) but has anyone tried it?
Yes - I bought a small Laser brand bottle pump that I put fluid into, then connect the outlet pipe to each bleed nipple in turn and pump fresh fluid up to the master cylinder before I start the normal bleeding process. Works a treat.
It's also the only way I've been able to get my clutch bled quickly when I've change the slave seal or the fluid.
Quote from: Millietant on April 07, 2021, 04:05:29 PM
Yes - I bought a small Laser brand bottle pump that I put fluid into, then connect the outlet pipe to each bleed nipple in turn and pump fresh fluid up to the master cylinder before I start the normal bleeding process. Works a treat.
It's also the only way I've been able to get my clutch bled quickly when I've change the slave seal or the fluid.
Hmm - now that I'm thinking about it - since the wheels/Forks are off the bikes - I could almost raise the caliper vertically and hang it from the ceiling and achieve the same effect no?
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 07, 2021, 08:41:33 AM
All,
I come to you with two humble requests:
1.) Is there any trick to bleeding completely fresh brake lines - I've heard of reverse bleeding (pumping fluid from bottom up) but has anyone tried it?
2.) Does anyone know the correct color combination of the wires coming from the tank? the connection on mine was so rusty the pins popped out and it doesnt look like the colors directly correspond. I have a replacement 3 pin plug to use but don't want to hook up the wrong wires.
You can tie the brake lever into handlebar and fill up reservoir with bleedscrews closed. wait some hours or best over night and the system will selfbleed.
or just work the lever about 3 cm slowly in and out and you can see small airbubbles rising in the air outlet hole in reservoir.
In the picture below I'm testing if the fuel-petcook is holding vacuum with a plastic bottle the reason i posted it is that you can use a similar setup to bleed the brakes .
and it answers the question about the wiring placement for the fuel level sender unit. The middle one is green and brown the one on leftside is black and rightside is green
Safety wire that petcock elbow.... :bomb:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 08, 2021, 11:38:05 AM
Safety wire that petcock elbow.... :bomb:
This is first on the list! Had to take it off to use the RPM rebuild kit because it seemed like it was leaking like a siv from the little sandwhich gasket!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 08, 2021, 11:38:05 AM
Safety wire that petcock elbow.... :bomb:
It is hard to see in the pic but it is safety wired
Oh boy, big weekend - long post.
Took Old Tires off and put the new ones on - This was a major pain! I eventually used my brain and used the vice grip to break the bead. Wrestled with it with some tire irons for a couple hours and finally got both off. Using copious amounts of soap got the new ones on - then balanced accordingly! Also annoying - I thinks someone drilled out where the stems go - so no fancy 90* fittings - trip to the local bike shop had what I needed!
Also irritating - I bought a all balls rear bearing/seal kit from another website Its missing a smaller seal on the sprocket/cush drive hub :dash2: cant place the rear wheel on till I get that!
Took apart the old forks Drained what looked like old sludge? just dark grey and nasty stuff coming out. Installed new seals and wipers. Weirdly enough the spring had a spacer on it that looked like it was somebodies scrap PVC they had lying around... I'm going to pretend I didnt see that. Replaced everything and stuck it back in. Used 5wt fork oil instead of the 10 as called for in Haynes - is this a huge deal?
Brake/Clutch lines So I bought the
Front Brake Line Kit (Alt. No Anti Dive 86-87) from RPM and was confused when I didnt have all lines - then noticed the no anti dive part. Following Randy's instructions over email bypassed the anti dive units. Clutch was even easier - although my stock rubber line holders are not as snug anymore. Brake lines look a bit long - too long really - going to reach out to randy for advice (
maybe I ran them wrong?Leaky petcock So after noticing that my petcock was leaking - I used a rebuild kit from RPM for the petcock - then noticed a bend in the rim of the filter element where it meets the petcock - so it does not stick to the petcock like it should. A thin layer of epoxy did the trick. Safety wired the elbow to the body of the petcock as well.
New Fuel Level sender unit plug In my previous post - I mentioned how my fuel level sender unit had been corroded away - went to sparck moto and got a connections kit and made a new 3 to 3 connection. (
please forgive me replacing green/red with yellow - i dont have multicolor wire!)
New mirrors! Need I say more?
Whats to come:
- Brass pivot bushing in the clutch handle
- New Air filter
- New fairing mounting hardware
- Rear Luggage Mount
- new reservoir rubbers
- new brake pads - EBC FA88V
Thanks for reading and hope you all had as good a weekend as I did! Hopeful to get this puppy back on the road soon!
OK, so after a quick call - I've learned that the lines from Spiegler I received are intended to bypass the junction and bolt directly to the master cylinder.
Has anyone had any issues with this type of setup? do they need to be tied to the triple tree at any point?
There was some discussion on my thread starting on this page:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.45 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.45)
I think the short answer is the two line setup is good.
Quote from: Waiex191 on April 12, 2021, 11:34:34 AM
There was some discussion on my thread starting on this page:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.45 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.45)
I think the short answer is the two line setup is good.
Thanks! - yeah after some quick browsing it looks like a non issue.
Any idea why an all balls bearing kit only comes with 2 seals but 3 bearings? which side is supposed to be missing the seal? is this intentional?
Very confused!
There is no seal between the sprocket carrier and the actual rim where the rubber cush drives are. Seal goes on the outside of sprocket carrier and the brake side.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on April 12, 2021, 05:22:09 PM
There is no seal between the sprocket carrier and the actual rim where the rubber cush drives are. Seal goes on the outside of sprocket carrier and the brake side.
Holy Cow! Thanks - I would always assume that every bearing gets a seal.
But you know what they say about assuming....
Took a quick weekday trip to the shop:
- Moved the brake lines to hook up direct to the master cylinder and bled (much easier without the junction)
- Ordered new brakes (EBC FA88V)
- Cut and mounted the chain (it was the snapping bolt master link - very weird)
Bled the clutch line - just about finished and heard a massive
POP sound - The rubber seal had failed and fluid started spraying everywhere (fun times!)
Thankfully - one from RPM is on the way.
That should just about finish the bike pending any other major problems I see - the only thing I can think of being worn out is the disk's themselves.
That leaves me on the hunt for a new front fender and belly pan fairing. If I cant find one within a reasonable price range I might try to make a mold of the beat ones and try to make them myself from fiberglass - lets hope it doesn't come to that.
I was reading through your posts and I seen you mentioned the forks had a PVC spacer in it. Sometimes if the springs are replaced with aftermarket parts they also include spacers to increase the preload or to take up extra space if the springs are shorter than stock. Might be worthwhile checking you have the original springs installed as they maybe needed if its an aftermarket setup. Could also be a case of the previous owner wanting stiffer front forks so they increased the preload with the PVC spacers.
Quote from: f4fwildcat on April 16, 2021, 01:49:03 PM
I was reading through your posts and I seen you mentioned the forks had a PVC spacer in it. Sometimes if the springs are replaced with aftermarket parts they also include spacers to increase the preload or to take up extra space if the springs are shorter than stock. Might be worthwhile checking you have the original springs installed as they maybe needed if its an aftermarket setup. Could also be a case of the previous owner wanting stiffer front forks so they increased the preload with the PVC spacers.
Yeah, I'm familiar with this kinda tomfoolery - I'd like to try riding it and seeing how it feels. If it is too hard/soft I might try to replace it with OEM springs and remove the spacer. I know the tubes/lowers are stock because the seals/wipers fit perfectly inside - also if I do like the setup might go to the local fabricator and get some metal cut to the size of the PVC - a bit overkill but I really dont like the idea of relying on plastic.
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 16, 2021, 01:56:53 PM
..... also if I do like the setup might go to the local fabricator and get some metal cut to the size of the PVC - a bit overkill but I really dont like the idea of relying on plastic.
The compressive strength of that Schedule 40 PVC spacer will surprise you. It is exponentially stronger than any compressive forces the fork springs and front end will deliver. You are perfectly fine.
If worried, go with a heavier wall Schedule 80 thickness of PVC.
Time for something exciting:
Ponied up for a pyramid plastics bellypan and decals from RD decals. If I'm understanding correctly I can just paint the bellypan white and the decals will do the rest - then clearcoat over it.
Can you buy the heat blanket stuff in the bottom of the pan?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 16, 2021, 02:16:41 PM
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 16, 2021, 01:56:53 PM
..... also if I do like the setup might go to the local fabricator and get some metal cut to the size of the PVC - a bit overkill but I really dont like the idea of relying on plastic.
The compressive strength of that Schedule 40 PVC spacer will surprise you. It is exponentially stronger than any compressive forces the fork springs and front end will deliver. You are perfectly fine.
If worried, go with a heavier wall Schedule 80 thickness of PVC.
Yeah - it was a little shocking at first. I guess I was worried what a few years bathing in fork oil would do to the plastic of it - but it seemed structurally sound.
The spacer was maybe 6 or 7 inches long?
Hopefully in the future we can move our fork spacers over to pex (kidding!)
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 17, 2021, 08:17:21 AM
Time for something exciting:
Ponied up for a pyramid plastics bellypan and decals from RD decals. If I'm understanding correctly I can just paint the bellypan white and the decals will do the rest - then clearcoat over it.
This is the White that you want. I have used this paint and it looks great.
https://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ge-silky-white-sw-1752.cfm (https://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-00ge-silky-white-sw-1752.cfm)
Fred
More good news!
- New Brake Pads
- New Clutch Slave
Got the bike filled up with gas and it started up! It was dark when I finished so the maiden voyage will be this weekend! Very excited.
Tried installing the Rentec sports rack/carrier and I cant figure it out. I know one mount needs to go to the blinker mount - and the other goes to the "grab bars"
Are they talking about the bolts mounted vertically underneath the tail/spoiler plastic? I'm unsure if it needs to go above or below?
if someone has the rentec rack - could they please post some pictures?
So I got the bike fueled up and running! took it out for a quick ride around the block and....
Fuel starvation! I guess the lines are old so even when they are routed to their natural positions using the curvy bit it kinks the line significantly...
Though while it was running? phenomenal power for the size of the thing!
I was very surprised how nimble and light the bike felt while on the road. For my small 5'6" 150lb frame it worked rather well! I can nearly flatfoot the thing.
Very excited for this to get sorted and on the road again!
If you think you have the lines properly routed..........make sure your tank is venting OK. Other possibility is the floats are too low so that they shut off flow too early. My 36 YO FJ still has the original hoses and they work.
Quote from: Motofun on April 25, 2021, 11:51:59 AM
If you think you have the lines properly routed..........make sure your tank is venting OK. Other possibility is the floats are too low so that they shut off flow too early. My 36 YO FJ still has the original hoses and they work.
I only can guess that because when I lifted the tank off to take a look I saw it visibly kinked pretty bad.
I tend to do the easiest thing first - so fuel lines - then if the problem persists I might yank off the carbs and do a rebuild - or send them off.
Easiest to check tank venting - as long as the tank isn't completely full - try riding with the cap just resting in place, not latched down and see if it helps. You'll probably want to be down to 2/3 or 1/2 tank before going WOT in lower gears to keep from sloshing fuel everywhere!
Jake, follow this fuel line route exactly:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/192_05_12_18_7_27_03.jpeg)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18286.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18286.0)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 25, 2021, 06:33:35 PM
Jake, follow this fuel line route exactly:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18286.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18286.0)
Thanks! This a huge help - my line from the petcock runs above the loop - not below like yours - the kink is located at the apex of the loop (I think maybe because its not stock and might be cut too short)
Good news is the bike is venting well - I blew on what I thought was the breather tube on the back of the tank (facing towards the rider) and heard air pushing through the gas cap
Quote from: imagelessJAKE on April 27, 2021, 09:11:43 AM
.....Good news is the bike is venting well - I blew on what I thought was the breather tube on the back of the tank (facing towards the rider) and heard air pushing through the gas cap
FYI, that's not a vent line ^^^ that is a drain line. All the FJ's with recessed fuel caps have this drain line.
The purpose of this drain is to capture any spilled fuel in the recessed portion of the fuel cap, then by gravity, drain it out of the recess and out the drain line.
This drain is on the exterior of the fuel cap seal and has nothing to do with the internal venting of the fuel tank.
I think your troubles will go away when you have the fuel line routed correctly.
Report back with your findings.
Cheers. Pat
You can also make a spring out of steel wire (or buy a suitable spring ) that will eliminate kink when line gets hot .
Quote from: Old Rider on April 27, 2021, 02:12:36 PM
You can also make a spring out of steel wire (or buy a suitable spring ) that will eliminate kink when line gets hot .
I had a similar idea! I've used this trick before on some odd bends and curves in the routing.
While I'm waiting on some new braided fuel line to show up - my new bellypan has arrived from the UK!
It looks great! much better then the old one! I've ordered some gold heat wrap to line the interior so hopefully it will limit heat cracking.
Graphics from RDDecals are gonna look phenomenal on this piece.
On some of the side panels - some of the plastic pins/clip pieces that fit to rubber grommets have been snapped off - has anyone found a solution to replacing the pins/clips?
The fuelhose spring is oem on many bikes Suzuki rg500gamma is one of them. I bought same spoiler as you from UK it is very good quality i painted it in Lexus starfire pearl white because all the rest of the white on bike has that color i painted the orange and black to because rest of bike has same orange.Painted straight on the gelcoat just rubbed up the gelcoat first
Used heat protection mats inside haven't had any heat bubbles in the paint where the lower parts almost touches the exhaust.Had it on for 2 years i think
I have used small spacers cut out of fuelhose on the 2 rear screws so it get a little distace from exhaust
Hey all!
So the new fuel line routing seems to work! No fuel starvation and it idles steadily with no choke needed.
It doesn't sound too great though - somewhat choppy and poppy like a lawnmower - to me it could either be running lean/rich - the carbs could be unbalanced - or my old rusty exhaust could have leaks. I'll be doing some investigation into the matter
Right now - I am happy the thing runs and smoothly!
Pictured below: The old fuel line that came off the thing - not in the best of shape.
Folks, it finally happened! :yahoo:
Was able to take the FJ on the road and go through the gears fully in a roughly 4 mile gauntlet with plenty of turns - With a bit of smoke and pop (I think it might be the oil rings setting in after so long)
all I have to say is that I am blown away by the speed - if my speedometer is correct - 45 in 3rd with very little throttle.
The handling is very easy for a bike of this size (I am of smaller frame) I easily fit this bike in both an upright position and a tuck.
Blown away!
Please excuse the dorky mirrors - I ordered them from the UK and... well I dont think they were meant to fit a US bike :sorry:
FYI - The bellypan is off with the painter so he can replicate the graphics position on the new one
Maybe the mirrors need to swap sides?
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 06, 2021, 07:27:23 PM
Maybe the mirrors need to swap sides?
This was my first thought - however after switching them, flipping them etc etc they still look awkward an alot more vertical then they should to me.
I replaced them because the originals were a bit nasty and had some corrosion and chips on the glass. I might look into just getting new mirrored glass popped in.
Ok, they must be for 89+. You need a wedge of sorts to tilt the base. I made proper wedge bases but before that I stuffed a screwdriver bit under the base with working results.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1562.msg34868#msg34868 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1562.msg34868#msg34868)