G'day fellas,
I thought I'd do this project a little differently.
All prep, repair, refurb, cleaning, painting and replacing were done in the 15 months leading up to this assembly video.
There are plenty of mistakes, and videoing the assembly helped me review and find them, but I'm sure there are more you all can find.
Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WM6FBA7Q-8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WM6FBA7Q-8)
Troyskie
Hello Troyskie..!! Congratulations, what a great video and what a fantastic total restorejob !! in my eyes You are now the king of FJ riders and
wrenchers.That bike must be the best looking Newest best restored Fj1100 in the word !. If it was mine i would keep it in the livingroom .Super video i saw somthing
happened at 28 minutes ,but that is perfectly normal when rebuilding the beast :good2: :good2: :good:
Thanks Rolf :good2:.
Yes, the main mistake was I put the base gasket in wrong, and the pistons were wrong way around so I had to pull the head and barrels off to correct with new gasket and new pistons. Valves were ok. The pistons were fine just a slight witness mark on the intake side with no metal removed, but I had a spare set, so I put them in.
Troyskie
Copyright on the music means some of you will only see a muted video.
Mammoth effort there Troy, could pick any mistakes......you were working Tooooo fast.
Got some music and then none
Quote from: Troyskie on January 27, 2021, 06:10:39 PM
Copyright on the music means some of you will only see a muted video.
SUCH a pain sometimes, the YouTube, isn't it? I have edited and uploaded the same video 2-3 times and each time they can bang you for a different copyright infringement. They do offer their royalty-free music library, but it's SO hard to sift through that music to find something you like.
Excellent video and excellent pacing! :)
Thank you!!!
And it's as simple as that.
What a moving 34 minutes and 11 seconds of poetry.
Can't believe that swing arm went in first tap.
Epic skills from the first bolt to the last.
Inspiring.
Emotional.
I'm off for a lay down.
Well done Troyskie
Thanks fellas :good2:.
I'd only run her up and down the street to test the clutch, gears, brakes, and then let her sit over night to see if there were any leaks.
Since then its been raining (Yeah! Pretty good bush fire during the week it's been so dry, so I can't complain), and I've been really keen to go again since finishing. On Monday she's going to the local dyno/tuning guy (Simon of Jobson Motorsport Nowra). He will run her in on the dyno, do an oil change/shims, then a final tune and dyno run, plus another if he's not happy, and then she'll be ready to take me to the 2021 rally at Bingara in May.
Before I take her for the run- in, I wanted another run for 10 min or so and run a little harder so see if there is anything that needs attention before the run-in.
Finally, just now, the rain stopped, sun came out, roads dried off, and I've a 10-15 min window before the next thunderstorm.
As before she starts with just the first click of choke and no hesitation to a smooth idle. After a quick warm up for a couple of minutes outside in the breeze I took off.
Now I know how it feels, just like in 1984, to ride a brand new FJ1100. She'll be even better run in and given a proper pro tune.
If anyone is wondering why I'm bothering with the dyno run-in and pro tune, that is a good question.
All of my FJs have had a number of PO's, never less than around 60,000k's young, and I've always envied those who've owned since new.
I'm fine to run her in like normal. I'm also fine to give her the final tune. I have the tools, and now some experience and confidence from other FJs.
However, this project has always been about finding out what it actually is like to ride a brand new FJ1100.
Having this final step is an unnecessary extra cost, yes, but one I choose to have, to complete my project fully in the way I intended.
I really love the feeling of riding this bike. The 10 or so minutes I've just had was wonderful, and very satisfying. Time for a beer, and good stare at the bike I think. :i_am_so_happy: :drinks:
Wow, wow, wow. That is hands down the best rebuild video I've seen, great music to boot, well done.
The chooks wandering in and out to check on progress and the high five and kiss with Nicole are lovely inclusions.
Ambo Central has just knocked one out of the park and I look forward to seeing it in the flesh in May at the rally, and if not then, manshed weekend. I've already seen the paint first hand, it's perfect.
For those of you that may not have been around at the time or perhaps just missed it, this was Troy's last creative effort
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50889545678_a5d0e83cd0_h.jpg)
Excellent work indeed.
Noel
Well done Troy!
When you now enjoy your new motorcycle, you can honestly say that you know her inside and out.
There is a certain satisfaction in knowing that few understand.
Kudos!
Excellent work and video!
But that poor oscillating-fan in the background though.................... :wacko3:
That's fantastic!
"Look, honey, the whole video was barely more than half an hour. I can knock this out in no time!"
Quote from: Troyskie on January 29, 2021, 10:14:24 PM
If anyone is wondering why I'm bothering with the dyno run-in and pro tune, that is a good question.
I, for one, am anxiously awaiting your results!
I'm a fan of the K.I.S.S. Principle (Keep It Simple because i'm Stupid) so I would love to see what the stock numbers on a fresh rebuild are!
:good2:
I'm a complete newbie to the FJ scene, but the more I dive into the bike, the more impressed I am with it!
Quote from: ribbert on January 30, 2021, 05:18:49 AM
Wow, wow, wow. That is hands down the best rebuild video I've seen, great music to boot, well done.
The chooks wandering in and out to check on progress and the high five and kiss with Nicole are lovely inclusions.
Ambo Central has just knocked one out of the park and I look forward to seeing it in the flesh in May at the rally, and if not then, manshed weekend. I've already seen the paint first hand, it's perfect.
For those of you that may not have been around at the time or perhaps just missed it, this was Troy's last creative effort
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50889545678_a5d0e83cd0_h.jpg)
Excellent work indeed.
Noel
Is this a seek and find game?
I can't find the con rods!
He he he. Thanks Noel, I should have put a couple of photos like that at the beginning.
The conrods are still attached to the crank.
There were three parts I didn't completely disassemble and refurbish.
The carbies, bought new from RPM and jetted to suit (thanks Robert)
The instruments, found a set in very good condition oversea, even the fuel gauge works properly, and a perfect clear cover.
The conrods and crank. Every measurement i I could take showed 'new' spec, so I left them alone.
The hardest to find parts were the oem black chrome double wall headers. They are sequential and won't allow the bottom cowl to fit correctly if they are miss matched. As far as I can tell there aren't many/any nos headers like these left. I snapped up every set of 1100 headers I could find until these came up.
Amazingly I also found an oem fuel hose!
I was also able to replace or repair most of the wiring, switch blocks etc. starter and alternator are original.
Even though everything has new paint, polish etc. I've left some evidence of her previous life. There are a few marks visible under the paint in the frame, and some other imperfections I chose to leave, even though they would have been very easy to erase.
Although my Effie is new again, we all know she's had previous owners, and I've built her to a bit better than new, good for another 36 years, and this time, I'll be the knucklehead to put every scratch, dent, ding etc on her once I get past the pansy brand new novelty stage.
Troyskie
Great job mate! Looks and sounds fantastic. You'll get a few miles on her if you want to ride up to the Rally with us. We'll probably take
3 or 4 days to get there via the usual back roads.
Regards, Pete. :good2:
PS. Don't forget to ask Simon about my A/F ratio readout with a rpm readout and about the slotted cam sprockets. Thanks mate. :drinks:
Thanks mate.
Sign me on for the run to Bingara. I'll be leaving on the Sunday and just doing one overnighter on the way home, probably via East Gresford if we don't go that way on the way up.
I've put your dyno run note on the back of the jetting info for Simon so I don't forget :good:.
Troyskie
Dyno run-in and final tune complete.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdpF0-zaFUA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdpF0-zaFUA)
There were a few shenanigans due to my incompetence, but easy to overcome.
Final dyno HP is 108.5, torque 79.
Engine stock, but wiseco pistons at 1st oversize so slightly higher compression. RPM valves and springs (performance thingies).
Exhaust system near new stock.
Jetting as follows (airbox jobbie):
Main 112.5, main needle shim removed
Pilot 40
floats 22mm
Hard to see on the vid but a/f from 4-6k was rich, so on the next service I'll drop the needle to 110. I'll see how that goes. The shims might go back in.
Around town and kookaloo power, a/f is near perfect.
The last things to sort out are:
A little drip from the bottom bolt on the clutch cover. Could be gasket crud?
Fork seals leaking, but getting less. I'd never disassembled/reassembled forks before so I've clearly screwed something up. Forks have been renewed to new, but have emulators and stiffer springs. AD still connected, SS lines all round.
The starter motor shit itself. I assume the brushes are rooted.
Although this has been the longest FJ project I've done, its the shortest project thread.
Aside from the little niggles, project complete. Rego tomorrow, and daily ride once I can fix the starter motor.
Troyskie
Quote from: Troyskie on February 16, 2021, 11:39:42 PM
Dyno run-in and final tune complete.
Troyskie
That's excellent Troy, sounds great but you'll need another project now, what's next? ( There's always the Cessna......) :biggrin:
Noel
Troy,
If it is rich @4-6k I would leave the mains at 112. If the needles are grooved, I would move the needle up one more towards the blunt end, and put the shim in and try it there. That should lean it down a bit in the 4-6k range. Then again if it is real hot now there as it cools it may be just right where it is. If you have the stock single groove needles, other than machining a higher groove in them, I am not aware of a way to make those any more lean.
That richness could also be a sign of wear of the emulsions tubes.
Now, that's something to think about... :scratch_one-s_head:
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on February 17, 2021, 03:45:48 PM
That richness could also be a sign of wear of the emulsions tubes.
Now, that's something to think about... :scratch_one-s_head:
Randy - RPM
:rofl:
He he he, Randy, I seriously doubt Robert put old emulsion tubes in the new carbies that came with my other bits.
They looked shiny and new as the rest of the carbie bank.
Robert, They do have the plain needles, so removing the shims leaned it out a bit and gave me a few more horses and torque. As you suggest I'll leave the mains alone for now.
Overall, the richness is at the beginning of WOT, and ends before kookaloo, so around town, cruise speed on the highway, and at 'I can't keep up to Pete and Alf' speeds I'm right on the money. The 4-6k richness is not so far out it is an issue.
It doesn't seem to bog down when I hit it hard at 4k so I'm just burning some extra fuel.
For this bike I'm not chasing horsepower, just a nice reliable daily ride that is good for the next 30 years :) .
I'll fool with this 4-6k richness on first service.
My simple options are to fiddle with the airbox. I can try removing the schnorkle thingies from either side of the airbox to try an lean it out with more air.
I can also try leaving them as is and adding a hole or two (that can be plugged) in the before-filter side of the airbox.
After I get sick of the airbox I can re-jet for pods :sarcastic:
Noel, next project is ...... track bike! My other project is perfecting 180 autos at 40'. I had some excellent dry creek training at Camarillo with a Robo legend and have been doing some more locally. Interestingly doing the 180 at 40' or so makes it really easy to touch down zero zero. At 40' spin 180 and complete descent backwards. The 180 maneuver loses about 20' and I still have 20kts of speed through the disk to keep the main rpm in the green for the last 15-20'. The main reason for this is if I have to put down in tiger country with no clear LZ (it would be an unavoidable crash after critical failure). The idea is if you have to go into trees, do it in reverse so the tailboom and engine hit before the cockpit.
Yeah, I found out this evening that you purchased a new set of carbies.
Unfortunately, my current work schedule is keeping me away from the shop a lot, so while I think I know what's going on...I really don't.
Back to your regularly scheduled programming...
Randy - RPM