So I've been trying to get the engine back in the frame on my 89 FJ, and though I did it years ago, I can't remember how I managed to do it. I remember that I had to tilt the engine in a certain way to lift it up into the frame from below. Just for fun, I also tried dropping it in from above, but I didn't tilt the engine much. The forward "downtubes" that attach to the lower engine rails are the biggest headache.
So, does anyone have the secret to wiggling the motor back into the bike?
Thanks,
Ron
Probably not the approved solution, but I tend to put the bottom end into the frame, then install the cylinder and head from above.
If doing it with cylinder and head on, I usually fight a lot, try tilting it different directions, get frustrated, and then suddenly it pops into place. And, of course, I have no idea what I did to get it to go - so the next time is a repeat :ireful:
I just did this, with JUST the frame and the engine on my workbench, nothing else attached and I was surprised at how difficult it was.
I got the top REAR bolt thru first, then pivoted the frame down to line up the bottom rear bolt - BUT I had to push and pry with a large flathead, while tapping the bolt thru with a rubber mallet. To do it with the frame & wheels attached, you're going to have to do some creative jack-work... and I didn't have to deal with the swingarm being in the way either.
But once those two bolts were in, the rest literally fell into place.
The arrow is pointing to the first bolt that I lined up to start putting the engine back in the frame.
When I installed mine I put the bottom rear bolt in first then tilted the motor to install the top rear bolt all after lot of finagling and cussing and oh shit don't break the head fin moments.
Quote from: T Legg on January 02, 2021, 06:46:03 PM
When I installed mine I put the bottom rear bolt in first then tilted the motor to install the top rear bolt all after lot of finagling and cussing and oh shit don't break the head fin moments.
I see something a lot different than what I try to do. Looks like you slipped the narrow part of the front frame around the the base of the cylinders from the back of the engine. I've usually gone from the front of the engine and above.
That picture was when we first slid the engine under. We found out we could not lift the engine straight up and had to tilt it back to raise it up . I also now remember we tried to put the bottom back bolt in first and that was when we had the problem with the fins touching the frame so we did end up tilting it further back and putting the top rear bolt in first and swinging it down to put the bottom bolt in . We weren't able to get the top rear bolt in fully so after getting the bottom in we tilted it back and got it in all the way. The rest was easy.
From what I'm reading, it looks like it's going to be a fight no matter what. It has occurred to me to tilt the engine back, and align the upper rear bolt first, then swing the engine down. OK, thanks everyone!
Ron
T Legg, what is the history on the yellow FJ? I worked with a guy that restored an 89? and painted it in the vein of the Kenny Roberts RZ350. It was the first FJ I rode and it sold me on the bike. Bought my 93 2 months later.
Quote from: captaudi on January 03, 2021, 07:43:10 PM
T Legg, what is the history on the yellow FJ? I worked with a guy that restored an 89? and painted it in the vein of the Kenny Roberts RZ350. It was the first FJ I rode and it sold me on the bike. Bought my 93 2 months later.
I first saw the bike for sale in Fernly Nevada near Reno in 2017 . In the summer of 2018 it showed up for sale in Dayton Nevada. I bought it from the person in Dayton in December of 2018. It appears the bike hadn't been running since 2006. The rear tire had little wear but a date code of 0500. I'm guessing the paint job was done sometime in the late eighty's or early ninety's . It is an 84 1100 manufactured in May. By the time I got it the original carbs were shot someone had tried to use slides from a later model set to fix it .The speedometer had 42,000 miles on it but didn't work. I've replaced the carbs speedometer rear brake caliper and a bunch of other broken stuff and got it back on the road in March of 2018. It is stock except the exhaust, pod filters,and a fork brace. It still uses the antidive units on the front forks. It runs and rides great now. I don't know who did the Kenny Roberts theme paint job but it certainly sticks out in a crowd. I'm glad my fast FJ1100 is black and incognito. The vin # of the two 1100's are only twelve numbers apart but the paint jobs make them look so different.
Travis, you know those aluminum Kerker cans fatigue and break off...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/49_22_02_19_8_36_45.jpeg)
Happened to several of us.
Yes Pat I have taken note of the danger when reading others posts. I do check it regularly. I would like to replace the headers and pipe at some point just to make the oil changes easier. Even my stainless steel super trapp pipe began to wiggle a while back so I had a welder run a bead around it.
That's a beautiful weld....artwork!