I lost the fuse cover on one of my 1100's a while back. I tried to make a new cover out of plastifix but having to deposit the plastic clump by clump into the mold made it wavy and bumpy looking. I bought a product called aluminite resin and tried it in the mold I made and it came out pretty nice. The resin makes a strong plastic and the part looks as good as the original from the top. I could have used black pigment but I will just paint this one. I am going to try to recreate some pieces of my fairing that are missing next.
That looks awesome. :good2: :drinks:
I know the fuse covers are impossible to find.
Fred
That looks great. With plastex you just pour it full of powder and add the liquid to it.
They are hard to find I kept looking along side the road for weeks after I lost it. I'm going to make a couple extras just in case. I'm lucky that between my two 1100's I have a complete bike to make molds from.
Quote from: giantkiller on December 27, 2020, 12:32:35 PM
That looks great. With plastex you just pour it full of powder and add the liquid to it.
I've tried that with plastifix but I ended up with weak spots and portions of powder the liquid didn't reach. This one is stronger than the original.
Great job Travis, I recall a couple folks here are looking for this cover....you may be able to sell a few.
T Legg,
Looks great!
What material did you use for the female mold?
Care to write up a process?
I don't need that specific part here, but maybe some other things . . .
:biggrin:
.
Red I'm a novice at this in fact I got the name wrong it's alumilite . I'm out in the sticks so the only internet I have is a phone with two gigs of data a month which I have already burned through. I can't post pictures until a couple days from now when I get my next two gigs. I will post some pictures then of the molds I made and the product. As of now I have only created one sided molds but this stuff has the potential to make perfect replicas with two sided molds. They also have several grades of mold making materials of which I used the most basic and several grades of resins . Some of the resins have a metallic appearance and some have a high degree of U V resistance. It would require a lot of material and more skill than I possess at this stage but it would be possible to cast an entire fender.
That part has 3D printer written all over it. Nice job on the mold!
Does my '89 FJ1200 have the same cover?
Quote from: T Legg on December 27, 2020, 04:32:01 PM
Red I'm a novice at this in fact I got the name wrong it's alumilite . I'm out in the sticks so the only internet I have is a phone with two gigs of data a month which I have already burned through. I can't post pictures until a couple days from now when I get my next two gigs.
T Legg,
If data limits are a problem, you should look into GIMP, the free image processor. It is distributed in all flavors. You can Crop images to only what is needed, and Scale the images to smaller sizes. You can Export the finished product as .JPEG, or other image-compression formats. I seldom see any need for me to send pix larger than maybe 75k. They look fine. There are other image processors out there as well; some cost money, some do not. PM me if you need some help to get started on GIMP. The cover pix you sent here was 4.7Mb. Attached here is the same image, cropped, re-sized, and in JPG format, as 36K.
:biggrin:
.
Only the 1100's have them. I don't know what the 89 is like . My 86 1200 has the choke handle and reserve switch there. Printers are cool but it only takes fifteen minutes to make and cure the mold and about one minute to mix the resin and pour it into the mold then ten minutes for the resin to cure. Since I made a one sided mold I had to do a little bit of whittling on the back to make a perfect fit. I spent $ 40.00 on mold material and resin components. I probably have enough resin to make at least fifty covers and five or six molds but the molds can be used many times. The challenge is to have a good part to make the molds from.
Red I couldn't imagine doing all that on my phone. I'm looking into sattelite internet services. I think my computer is still running on windows whatever came before windows seven.
Travis... if you need something I might have on my '84, just let me know and I'll send it along pronto... Thanks for you service!
Frank
Quote from: T Legg on December 27, 2020, 07:43:19 PMRed I couldn't imagine doing all that on my phone. I'm looking into sattelite internet services. I think my computer is still running on windows whatever came before windows seven.
T Legg,
You can take pix on the phone, then use a USB cable to put the pix on your computer. Do the tinkering there. Put the "reduced" pix back on the phone via USB cable, and send that. Sounds complicated, but it's easy stuff, if done one step at a time. GIMP has legacy program downloads for any flavor of Windoze, for your computer. The newest versions of GIMP are not that much better; you won't be missing anything really. The difference between your image and mine is, you can send
one of your pix, or send 130 of mine.
:biggrin:
Now that process does
not help when people here upload multi-Mb pix for your viewing, but you may be able to stop attachments from downloading unless you actually want to see them. Your phone tech support may be able to help with that option. They may have other ideas as well. Can't hurt to ask. If your local library has computers on the Internet, you can do your 'Net browsing there, and only use the phone for responses. Just a thought . . .
.
Quote from: Flynt on December 27, 2020, 09:20:51 PM
Travis... if you need something I might have on my '84, just let me know and I'll send it along pronto... Thanks for you service!
Frank
I appreciate your offer Frank. I need to develop my mold making skills. The mold material I used this time is easy to use but a little delicate. They have a silicone mold making material that is incredibly tuff you can pull and twist as hard as you like and it won't tear. For these molds you construct a plexiglass box and place the item to be molded into it then pour the silicone around it to make a two sided mold that will last for many many uses. When I get the process down I would like to make a library of molds for the future while pristine parts still exist. The fuse cover I used looks ok but has some damage from brake fluid and that damage is reflected in the mold. I would like to work my way up to complete fenders before the day comes when they don't exist .
I've had success making small items by using Play Doh for a mold then using epoxy casting resin for the item.
The Play Doh can be re-used over and over.
For larger items and two piece molds I have used a silicone that dentists use to make molds of teeth. I have made a few tank badges that way.
Sounds like you are way ahead of me Krusty . When you speak of tank badges and small parts I think of your Honda bikes. I have two cb750 k1's two k3's one cb750f and one cb 900f. There are a lot of small pieces on those to reproduce. Do you let the playdough dry and if so does it shrink?
Quote from: krusty on December 28, 2020, 04:51:52 AM
I've had success making small items by using Play Doh for a mold then using epoxy casting resin for the item.
The Play Doh can be re-used over and over.
For larger items and two piece molds I have used a silicone that dentists use to make molds of teeth. I have made a few tank badges that way.
Krusty, you can buy a 20kg bag of Gyprock Dental Plaster for less than $40, you could make a cast of the whole bike with that. As the name implies, it is very fine plaster for dental applications, available at all plater stores.
Noel
Quote from: T Legg on December 28, 2020, 05:56:35 AM
Sounds like you are way ahead of me Krusty . When you speak of tank badges and small parts I think of your Honda bikes. I have two cb750 k1's two k3's one cb750f and one cb 900f. There are a lot of small pieces on those to reproduce. Do you let the playdough dry and if so does it shrink?
The Play doh stays soft and malleable (been a while since I last used that word) so it can be re-used multiple times. I found it handy for making switch knobs for 58/59 Honda Dreams which have a very unusual shape and impossible to find. The tank badges were the small, round Honda and Suzuki items and the long Yamaha ones for DT/RT1s. This was in the early days before ebay and then all the aftermarket producers got in on the act. Much easier to buy repros these days. I joined ebay in 2000 and bought up a lot of early Honda parts from the US from sellers who were clearing out closed shops before David Silver et al.
Quote from: ribbert on December 28, 2020, 06:26:19 AM
Quote from: krusty on December 28, 2020, 04:51:52 AM
I've had success making small items by using Play Doh for a mold then using epoxy casting resin for the item.
The Play Doh can be re-used over and over.
For larger items and two piece molds I have used a silicone that dentists use to make molds of teeth. I have made a few tank badges that way.
Krusty, you can buy a 20kg bag of Gyprock Dental Plaster for less than $40, you could make a cast of the whole bike with that. As the name implies, it is very fine plaster for dental applications, available at all plater stores.
Noel
I liked the silicone because it required no release agent and, when set, it was just pliable enough to easily remove the part once it had cured. On the other hand, it wasn't cheap. I used to buy it from a friend who was a dental technician.
When I had the same problem, I just used plastic from a car, for instance the side kick panels where your feet rest while driving, usually the plastic is flat and thick. A jig saw and a file and 5 minutes, I had a new fuse cover.
I like real simple solutions....
Ignore the duct tape, unrelated solution...
Cheers, Gareth
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/1121_08_01_21_5_21_50.jpeg)
I contemplated using wood at one point. Here is a picture of the products I used. I made a second mold and tried to make two more covers but the new mold didn't come out level so I couldn't pour the resin deep enough. The other one came out good so now I have a spare. The mold material I used is mediocre my fingerprints remain from mixing the two parts together and show up on the work as slight ridges.ill try liquid silicone molding material next time. The crappy looking black fuse cover was my first failed attempt using plastifix.
Just had mine fly off yesterday :Facepalm:
Just a note on 3D printing:
My local public library has 3D printers, and they will print anything smaller that a shoebox for cheap, in a variety of plastic/Nylon materials. Europe has a large FJ following, and they are building entire libraries of 3D files for printing, FJ and otherwise. If I can give the library a .STL file, they will do all the rest, for the cost of the material. Never mess with a librarian, they DEAL in knowledge.
:yes:
There are websites where you can learn about 3D printing, and editing .STL files on-line, usually by a free log-in. Most 3D scanners will produce .STL files as outputs, ready to print. With a few mouse clicks, you can produce .STL files for mirror-image parts, Left and Right.
Got no idea where to start looking for 3D libraries for STL files.
But that sounds great that the libraries can print if you have the file, love to find a file for the fuse cover if anyone knows.
I'm still unsure how 1 can just fly off as it fixed with a screw to hold fairing in position.
I know in my case I had just put the fairing back on and forgot to tighten the screw.
My daughter just bought a 3D printer. If any one comes up with program for the fuse cover I would ask her to make several. In the mean time I'll keep using my molded copy. I'd like to be able to make the air scoop inner pieces for the 1100's also.
Quote from: T Legg on February 25, 2025, 12:30:18 PM... I'd like to be able to make the air scoop inner pieces for the 1100's also.
If you are talking about the "snorkel" piece - I'm pretty sure they are the same between 1100 and 1200's
Quote from: fj1289 on February 25, 2025, 02:08:35 PMQuote from: T Legg on February 25, 2025, 12:30:18 PM... I'd like to be able to make the air scoop inner pieces for the 1100's also.
If you are talking about the "snorkel" piece - I'm pretty sure they are the same between 1100 and 1200's
No. There is a piece that snaps into the scoop portion to guide the air flow better. It's only on the 1100's. There is left and right version.
Quote from: Sparky84 on February 25, 2025, 02:21:37 AMGot no idea where to start looking for 3D libraries for STL files.
But that sounds great that the libraries can print if you have the file, love to find a file for the fuse cover if anyone knows.
Sparky,
I would suggest that you get into contact with some European FJ clubs/ forums to find the parts libraries they are collecting. There is a good following for the FJ there. I was not the guy, but I remember somebody here found those good resources, for printed parts files.
Quote from: T Legg on February 25, 2025, 05:34:26 PMQuote from: fj1289 on February 25, 2025, 02:08:35 PMQuote from: T Legg on February 25, 2025, 12:30:18 PM... I'd like to be able to make the air scoop inner pieces for the 1100's also.
If you are talking about the "snorkel" piece - I'm pretty sure they are the same between 1100 and 1200's
No. There is a piece that snaps into the scoop portion to guide the air flow better. It's only on the 1100's. There is left and right version.
Ahhhhh - I remember what you are talking about!
Another reason to pick up one of these puppies up.
https://store.creality.com/products/cr-scan-ferret-3d-scanner?spm=..page_11427365.albums_2.1&spm_prev=..page_11427365.header_1.1
I borrowed one of these from my bike shop a couple of years ago, followed T lEGG instructions and got a reasonable presentable copy. Thanks
well done!
Quote from: red on February 25, 2025, 10:10:25 PMQuote from: Sparky84 on February 25, 2025, 02:21:37 AMGot no idea where to start looking for 3D libraries for STL files.
But that sounds great that the libraries can print if you have the file, love to find a file for the fuse cover if anyone knows.
Sparky,
I would suggest that you get into contact with some European FJ clubs/ forums to find the parts libraries they are collecting. There is a good following for the FJ there. I was not the guy, but I remember somebody here found those good resources, for printed parts files.
Thanks Red, I'll try.
Quote from: T Legg on February 25, 2025, 05:34:26 PMQuote from: fj1289 on February 25, 2025, 02:08:35 PMQuote from: T Legg on February 25, 2025, 12:30:18 PM... I'd like to be able to make the air scoop inner pieces for the 1100's also.
If you are talking about the "snorkel" piece - I'm pretty sure they are the same between 1100 and 1200's
No. There is a piece that snaps into the scoop portion to guide the air flow better. It's only on the 1100's. There is left and right version.
Just had one delivered, the bit that snaps in that is.