Bought these. They'll be going on my 1100 as I want to keep my 1220 stock.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-R1-R6-CALIPERS-WITH-MOUNTING-BOLTS-AND-PAIR-OF-BRAKE-LINES-VGC/153962128165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-R1-R6-CALIPERS-WITH-MOUNTING-BOLTS-AND-PAIR-OF-BRAKE-LINES-VGC/153962128165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
They won't fit on your 1100.
I should have mentioned that I already have '88 1200 forks fitted to the 1100.
It has stock wheels with early V-Max rotors. I'm guessing that with the stock 16" wheel, larger diam rotors, plus these calipers, should provide very much improved stopping power.
The R1/R6 calipers will work on your 1100 ONLY if you have 88 or later forks, 17 inch front wheel and 298mm or 300mm rotors.
Using the brackets in the following link will allow you to use the R1/R6 calipers with the 1100 anti-dive forks and the 282mm rotors and the 16 inch front wheel
http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/Front-Hanger-Brackets--pair--12B.html#SID=22 (http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/Front-Hanger-Brackets--pair--12B.html#SID=22)
Fred
Holy crap Kriusty.......$150 Aus.......that seems mega expensive....glad I live where eBay prices are reasonable !!
I got a $20 discount so it was really only $130. Most I found were about $160-$170. Equivalent USD was about $90.
There were cheaper ones on US Ebay but shipping costs were horrendous.
Mine is a 1986. 89 forks,gold caliper stainless braided lines, v-max rotors ,r1 master cylinder, on 16 inch wheel.
Quote from: krusty on June 14, 2020, 06:24:20 PM
I got a $20 discount so it was really only $130. Most I found were about $160-$170. Equivalent USD was about $90.
There were cheaper ones on US Ebay but shipping costs were horrendous.
Ouch. :shok: I paid $25 for a pair of R6 blue dots with all the lines (which I didn't need) from the wreckers for my '92. I guess when they have you over a barrell there's not much you can do.
Quote from: PaulG on June 15, 2020, 09:35:00 PM
Quote from: krusty on June 14, 2020, 06:24:20 PM
I got a $20 discount so it was really only $130. Most I found were about $160-$170. Equivalent USD was about $90.
There were cheaper ones on US Ebay but shipping costs were horrendous.
Ouch. :shok: I paid $25 for a pair of R6 blue dots with all the lines (which I didn't need) from the wreckers for my '92. I guess when they have you over a barrell there's not much you can do.
Occasionally you'll score a bargain here, I got an FJR front brake master complete with silver spot calipers for I think $120.00, but normally that price or higher would be for each. Nothing is cheap to buy here compared to other countries.
Quote from: Starquest on June 15, 2020, 12:18:55 PM
Mine is a 1986. 89 forks,gold caliper stainless braided lines, v-max rotors ,r1 master cylinder, on 16 inch wheel.
As it is at the moment.
Blue spots arrived on Friday. They look good except the dust seals on one are toast. Pistons look ok but will know better when I have them out. Odd thing was they calipers had mixed pads. I'll see if I can get a pic of them.
Removed inner pistons today, all in good condition with no sign of corrosion. I'll remove the inner pistons when the special tool arrives from UK. August 2017 Classic Motorcycle Mechanics has a How To feature on R6 brake overhaul.
Go ahead and replace the seals on the inner pistons, reinstall the 2 pistons, then use a c clamp to hold the 2 inner pistons in place, now use your air compressor to blow out the outer pistons.
I do not recommend messing around with those blue spot buttons.
Over the years we have changed thousands of piston seals on the Yamaha monoblock calipers and have never needed a special tool or needed to remove those buttons.
Still waiting for the seals to arrive and also a dental pick off Ebay which will make it easier to get the old items out of the bores.
In the meantime I've been kept busy. Ever had one of those experiences where one simple job leads to another - and another?
I noticed the clutch was also weeping on the 1100 so I fitted new seals (which arrived a couple of days ago) to one of the M/cs I'd already cleaned up. Fitted that to the bike and bled the clutch, again no trouble there. However, when I had finished and cleaned up I wheeled the bike to the back of the garage and noticed it was hard to push. I put the bike up on the centre stand and tried to turn the rear wheel (in neutral) - I could hardly move it. I instantly suspected that the tiny pressure relief hole in the rear m/c must be blocked with crud. I've come across this problem before on other old(er) bikes.
As it happened, a friend of mine had recently sold his 1200 and had a box of parts left over from when he rebuilt it a few years back. He offered them to me, gratis. Among the stuff was a complete, clean rear, brake system. I checked it over and checked the little hole in the m/c and all looked very good. The pads that came with it were almost worn out but the pads on my 1100 were excellent as I had replaced them when I got the bike about 3 years ago and they haven't done a lot of Ks.
It was a straightforward swap. Out with old and in with the new. Bled the system and all was good again. This afternoon I took it for a test ride and all went well, only thing I had to adjust was the brake pedal.
The old brake system is now stored along with my other brake bits ready to be overhauled for another 1100 I am working on.
Something I just thought of. It wouldn't start while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. I checked the lever switch and it tested ok. Is there something else that could be at fault?
The kickstand has to be up also when it is in gear to start.
Quote from: T Legg on June 26, 2020, 02:01:13 AM
The kickstand has to be up also when it is in gear to start.
I have 3 1100s and none have a kickstand switch.
Quote from: krusty on June 26, 2020, 04:33:03 AM
Quote from: T Legg on June 26, 2020, 02:01:13 AM
The kickstand has to be up also when it is in gear to start.
I have 3 1100s and none have a kickstand switch.
I have two fj1100's and they both have kickstand switch's along with kickstand switch relay's. Maybe it is an American model verses Australian model thing.
Quote from: krusty on June 26, 2020, 04:33:03 AM
Quote from: T Legg on June 26, 2020, 02:01:13 AM
The kickstand has to be up also when it is in gear to start.
I have 3 1100s and none have a kickstand switch.
I've checked my Haynes shop manual wiring diagrams and found that the UK version 36Y has no side stand switch. My bikes are 50K. I am guessing the clutch switch is somehow tied to the neutral light being on or off. Any ideas?
I looked at the UK diagram in my clymer manual . If the Haynes manual is like the clymer it doesn't have the schematic of the relays. I made a crude drawing of the starter circuit. The starter cut off relay magnetic coil is connected to positive through the key switch and then through the kill switch. the other side of the starter cut off relay magnetic coil is connected to the clutch switch by the black /yellow wire to the clutch switch .when the clutch is pulled the coil is connected to ground and energized closing the relay contacts.now if the starter switch is pushed it will turn over. The black/yellow wire is also connected through the diode block to the neutral switch which when closed will also connect the starter cutoff relay to ground and energized the magnetic coil. If it is starting in neutral then the starter cutoff relay is working so the problem must be in the black /yellow wire connection between the clutch switch and the starter cutoff relay ,the clutch switch or the black wire connection between the clutch switch and ground. Good Luck I hope this helps
Thank you for for that. I'll try and digest it all over the next few days.
Now waiting for blue spot seals to arrive but now have noticed a fork seal is leaking a little so its the old 'one thing leads to another', again. The bike has 88 forks and I have a spare set of Icon progressive springs that I'll try out in it. These came out of my 91 1200 and were replaced by RPM springs and valves. Anyone see any potential compatibility problem with that? The most obvious to me, without looking, would be spring length.
Quote from: krusty on June 28, 2020, 09:30:26 PM
Quote from: krusty on June 26, 2020, 04:33:03 AM
Quote from: T Legg on June 26, 2020, 02:01:13 AM
The kickstand has to be up also when it is in gear to start.
I have 3 1100s and none have a kickstand switch.
I've checked my Haynes shop manual wiring diagrams and found that the UK version 36Y has no side stand switch. My bikes are 50K. I am guessing the clutch switch is somehow tied to the neutral light being on or off. Any ideas?
That's strange Krusty, our UK FJ's do have side stand cut off switches. Never noticed that they aren't shown in my Haynes manual !
Quote from: T Legg on June 29, 2020, 02:24:46 AM
I looked at the UK diagram in my clymer manual . If the Haynes manual is like the clymer it doesn't have the schematic of the relays. I made a crude drawing of the starter circuit. The starter cut off relay magnetic coil is connected to positive through the key switch and then through the kill switch. the other side of the starter cut off relay magnetic coil is connected to the clutch switch by the black /yellow wire to the clutch switch .when the clutch is pulled the coil is connected to ground and energized closing the relay contacts.now if the starter switch is pushed it will turn over. The black/yellow wire is also connected through the diode block to the neutral switch which when closed will also connect the starter cutoff relay to ground and energized the magnetic coil. If it is starting in neutral then the starter cutoff relay is working so the problem must be in the black /yellow wire connection between the clutch switch and the starter cutoff relay ,the clutch switch or the black wire connection between the clutch switch and ground. Good Luck I hope this helps
Sorry about rotation.
http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4753_02_07_20_2_07_53.jpeg (http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4753_02_07_20_2_07_53.jpeg)
That looks official. I'm glad my drawing matches it. I had to extrapolate the wiring by matching the clymer UK diagram with no relay diagrams to the factory manual for my US fj1100 with relay diagrams but with the extra kickstand switch and relay.
An update on the brake caliper swap. All fitted and working good. No problems fitting new seals etc. I bled the brakes the normal way but still ended up with a "soft" lever. It was late in the day so I decided to do the old lever in overnight trick if you know what I mean. What I did was pull the lever in about 3/4 and held it there by wrapping some masking tape around the lever and the grip to hold the lever in that position. Next morning I removed the tape to release the lever and all was good. Took it for a test ride and everything is working as it should.
At the moment I have the rear suspension removed from a parts donor 1100. I'll rebuild it then fit it to my rider 1100. In the process of cleaning the swing arm. Question; what kind of finish does the ally swingarm have?
Clear anodize. Like Mil-8625 type II
Quote from: FJmonkey on July 21, 2020, 12:52:03 AM
Clear anodize. Like Mil-8625 type II
Thanks. That confirms what I thought. What's the common (cheap?) method to have it looking looking good again?