Hello, fellow FJ riders.
I have modeled a few parts for my 1988 FJ1200 for 3D print printing.
Follow this link if you would like to view and download any of them from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/iHumanist/designs (https://www.thingiverse.com/iHumanist/designs)
Thanks, those are fantastic! I definitely could use at least two of those items.
And your bike looks great, too.
One of our members here (George) has 3D-printed some 1988-1990 turn signal lenses. He sent me a pair to try out, they look great but I haven't had time to try installing them yet.
- Bill
Thanks, Bill. That's very kind of you to say. :good:
I truly hope you can make use of these items. Please give me your feedback if you get them printed and installed.
Cheers!
Quote from: Bill_Rockoff on April 24, 2020, 02:22:36 PM
Thanks, those are fantastic! I definitely could use at least two of those items.
And your bike looks great, too.
One of our members here (George) has 3D-printed some 1988-1990 turn signal lenses. He sent me a pair to try out, they look great but I haven't had time to try installing them yet.
- Bill
Quote from: FJ1200W on April 24, 2020, 04:42:58 PM
Quote from: iHumanist on April 24, 2020, 02:04:35 PM
Hello, fellow FJ riders.
I have modeled a few parts for my 1988 FJ1200 for 3D print printing.
Follow this link if you would like to view and download any of them from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/iHumanist/designs (https://www.thingiverse.com/iHumanist/designs)
Biden is worse
I'm looking forward to 2024
Think this one ended up in the wrong thread.....
Quote from: iHumanist on April 24, 2020, 02:04:35 PM
Hello, fellow FJ riders.
I have modeled a few parts for my 1988 FJ1200 for 3D print printing.
Follow this link if you would like to view and download any of them from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/iHumanist/designs (https://www.thingiverse.com/iHumanist/designs)
Very cool! I've "shaved and filled" my scoops - but should be a great solution for those that need them.
What filament(s) have you tried so far to make these practical? e.g. ABS, Nylon, or a heavy TPU? That kind of question.
Cheers.
Quote from: Charlie-brm on June 07, 2020, 07:32:41 PM
What filament(s) have you tried so far to make these practical? e.g. ABS, Nylon, or a heavy TPU? That kind of question.
Cheers.
For the bumper, I printed mine in PETG, only because it's all I had at the time.
I tilted the model at 45° before slicing to reduce the support material required; instead of needing support under the entire body, it only required support under the body rim and one sidewall. It turned out quite well, actually.
The only post-print mod was to trim two tab-sides slightly (most likely an issue created by a mismeasurement during modeling). I've thought about filling, sanding, and painting the part but I haven't got around to it yet. You can only tell that it's 3D printed if you get close to it.
I printed the toolbox in ABS and it warped (my print volume is not heated). I need to re-print it in PLA.
Give me some feedback if you decide to try to print any of these, please. I'd appreciate it.
Cheers!
I can't figure out which face or axis you are choosing to tilt it 45 degrees. I'm not seeing what is the best advantage re supports you mentioned. So if you can describe that I'll give it a go.
If I attempt it I'll let you know. I have other projects with hooked insert tabs but they don't come out too well; except they are a lot smaller (AA battery enclosure covers).
Nice one Stan love the quality of finish on the bike it looks amazing!
That's a 3CV right?
Do you know if anyone has modelled the air scoops for that model or the 1TX?
I'm looking for a smaller fairing for my later '91 3XW and all the ones I can find are missing the scoops - reckon I prefer the sharper design of yours to the more blown look of the later model...
Cheers Jan
This looks awesome! Did you model them by measuring and making the model yourself, or do you have some type of 3D scanner or CMM?
I brought the file into CURA slicer where it estimated a 10 hour print time. Since I don't own an FJ that uses this design of bumper, it could be a long while before I get curious to print one. I might "chop" the design in half and print a bit just to test the details of the hooked tabs and the surface finish. It barely fits the print bed of my Ender 2 even after setting it corner to corner instead of along an axis.
Yo! Humanist. :)
I set up a trial print of the back 50% of the right hand bumper to save time - and like I wrote previously - my Ender 2 doesn't have the bed capacity for the full bumper.
The pic attached is the orientation I used in CURA, my slicer program. Please let me know how your print orientation differs based on the orientation I'm showing here.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/581_29_09_20_2_53_26_0.jpeg)
The yellow arrow points to the tip of the tab feature that touches the plate. The main part of the design is oriented "plumb" which angles up the bottom face, so I checked on "Supports" which left a raggedy bottom face. The main sides are pretty good. Based on that finish I would use it as is. The top face (not shown) has some banding pattern and would need post printing smoothing.
The backside clip tabs got supports and they are kind of a mess. I should have a 3CV bike to trial fit this and see how close I am.
You can find photos of the actual print out in my gallery here on FJowners.
My son just got a larger printer. I found this print this morning. I've shared the link to this thread with him for print orientation. Clearly a test print. We are out of black filament.
What was print time? I sliced it in that orientation and at the 45 degrees suggested above both are over 11 hours with super quality.
20% infill, 0.12mm layer height, 6 hr 20 min. We used prusaslicer. I had to sand the tabs to make them more triangular before I could snap them in. You can definitely see the layers so print quality is not perfect.
Interesting. Cura slicer is 20 % 0.12mm layer height and 11 hrs 15 minutes, top and bottom thickness 1.2mm 3 line wall, top and bottom 7 lines @ 0.84mm with skirt adhesion.
If I drop from "super quality" to "dynamic quality" it changes to 6 hours 16 minutes with a 0.16mm layer height all other setting the same.
Might have to try the Prusa slicer, as we printed some test fit stuff for the race car before having sent out to cnc and a few pieces were 20+ hour prints. even on low quality
Quote from: Charlie-brm on September 29, 2020, 04:06:30 PM
The pic attached is the orientation I used in CURA, my slicer program. Please let me know how your print orientation differs based on the orientation I'm showing here.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/581_29_09_20_2_53_26_0.jpeg)
My kid printed another one, this time in black. He orientated the print as shown above. It actually came out really nice, although on the bottom the surface is not as good. He minimized supports there and even having supports it affects the surface.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/12/6694_03_05_21_2_15_27_0.jpeg)
Yooo I need some turn signal lenses
I'd check ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256288195355
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256442410351