Hi folks - greetings from Worcestershire, middle England.
I've just bought a '91 FJ1200 3wx. It's a bit scruffy cosmetically and the brakes are duff - wooden feel and at low speeds you can feel a pulse - like the disks are warped? Could be the ABS. Whatever I do has to be cheap, simple and improve the bike both cosmetically and performance wise.
It's heavy too! So
Ditch the ABS
Swap the wheels and discs ( might have some blue spots somewhere)
Fit a direct swap out aluminium swing arm
What easy fix suggestions have you to turn it round during lockdown?
Thanks Jan
G'day and Welcome Jan
Looking good and it looks like those brakes are doing quite well on that downhill you're on :lol:
Enjoy the lockdown
Cheers
Alan
:Facepalm: Alan...believe me these brakes are wooden & besides - I'm on the other side of the world
Keep smiling
Cheers
Jan
Beware, I bought myself an ABS model in the UK. Thought about removing all that gubbins and upgrading to 17 rear, but regulations dictate otherwise. Either the bike won't get through an MOT or insurance becomes a problem because the braking system has been modified. (Can't remember which, may even be both). Either way; classic law written by people who've never ridden a motorcycle. Replacing that OEM with non ABS blue dot calipers and such upgrades, improves the Fj in every respect, but blinkered policy has no interest in that.
Quote from: 2big on April 11, 2020, 04:54:03 AMHi folks - greetings from Worcestershire, middle England. I've just bought a '91 FJ1200 3wx. It's a bit scruffy cosmetically and the brakes are duff - wooden feel and at low speeds you can feel a pulse - like the disks are warped? Could be the ABS. Whatever I do has to be cheap, simple and improve the bike both cosmetically and performance wise.
Ditch the ABS
Swap the wheels and discs ( might have some blue spots somewhere)
Fit a direct swap out aluminium swing arm
What easy fix suggestions have you to turn it round during lockdown?
Thanks Jan
Jan,
I value the ABS. Bleed the system well, replacing all the brake and clutch fluids. Even a failed ABS is a straight pass-through for the hydraulics, and won't affect the "feel" of normal braking.
You may want new brake pads, or hand-sand (only!) the glaze off of the pads there.
If you have "floating" disks, check that each of the "rivets" can rotate freely, as they should. If you have solid disks, clamp a screwdriver to the frame somewhere with the tip almost touching the disk. Rotate the wheel to check for warping, for each disk.
What is wrong with your swing arm? I'd think about the shock absorber, before changing out the swing arm. If you want better handling, a good shock and good tyres will count far more than a frame component.
Feel bad for y'all that have to fight between "moditius" and satisfying "the man". My FJ's carry antique plates which means no annual inspections and the insurance is cheap.
Thanks guys for the positive suggestions and thoughts. The insurance in the uk is ok as long as you declare tweaks...tho insurance is reasonable the UK 'MOT'(roadworthy certificate) is still needed until the bike is 35 years old
As for the brakes - I couldn't lock em up if I tried so ABS sticker is more use than the actual system - was thinking of changing the sticker to say NBS - no braking system. Tell me guys who have this - does it actually work?
I went for a sunset ride tonight with my son on the back and had to do an emergency stop for a cat running out into the road. Kitty survived - but rather worryingly the left hand handle bar came a bit loose and was wobbly thereafter.
I think re: Bills suggestion - it's time to give this a good going over and just make it run like it should before any mods...I've got some NOS keys coming from Minnesota so will start on refurb of the ignition key and yokes, bars etc. Would really like to repaint the gas tank filler but the bead blaster and powder coaters are all shut because of the damn covid19 thing...
Have seen a nice set of repainted 3xW wheels (in white) with new tyres and disks - that would be a cheap enhancement over what i currently have couples with some new stainless brake lines pads...and a good bleed
Happy Easter!!
Hi. I have a 92 ABS. Pulsing is more likely warped discs. Had the same issue and replaced them. OEM and other aftermarket brands for ABS discs are horrendously expensive. Near double the cost of non ABS discs. At least here in Canada. I bought some chinese ABS wave rotors several years ago at the same price as reg discs, and have never had a problem with them.
The wooden feel - are the brake lines original? If so ditch them and get a set of steel braided lines. You'll see an immediate improvement even with the original calipers and standard master cylinder. The blue dots will make it even better. Many riders change the m/c as well but could be done later.
If the ABS works IMO I would leave it in. Just make sure the battery holds a charge. If the voltage is too low the ABS kicks out and you'll get a flashing light on the dash. Brakes will still work fine, just no ABS function. There is a specific way to bleed the system which will be in the manuals.
Have you ever ridden a bike with ABS before? Braking technique is a bit different than usual. Should be plenty of tips on web re this.
BTW if the ABS is working properly your brakes shouldn't lock up. Under hard braking you may feel a rapid pulse coming through the lever. It's different than a warped disc feel. That's just the system adjusting the pressure to prevent lock up.
Quote from: PaulG on April 11, 2020, 08:52:49 PMThe wooden feel - are the brake lines original? If so ditch them and get a set of steel braided lines. You'll see an immediate improvement even with the original calipers and standard master cylinder. The blue dots will make it even better.
Jan,
I agree. Braided Stainless Steel brake lines are the way to go. Chances are, your ancient rubber brake hoses just "balloon" a bit, when you get on the brakes. Any decent hydraulics shop can make the the new SS braided hoses to order, by copying your old lines. They can also add protective color sheathing over the SS braiding, for style. Locally-made SS brake hoses may be much less expensive than the prices from the aftermarket bike parts places.
Now you can get "rotatable" banjo fittings on the brake hose ends, so there will be no twisted lines. If you have one front brake line at the handlebar Master Cylinder, you can avoid the splitter at the forks and use a longer banjo bolt to attach two brake lines to the front master cylinder. That brake line splitter on the forks can be a problem if you you want to add a fork brace later, and I think the double lines look better. You then will run a separate brake line to each front caliper, without using a splitter. You can also get banjo bolts with bleeder nipples in them (what a concept! :biggrin: . ) The Bleeder-Banjo Bolts cost about US$15~$20 each, but you can pay three times that price, from the wrong seller. That trick allows you to bleed the vertical hoses much better. Use all new copper washers on brake line banjo bolts, every time.
Speaking of bleeding, I'd like to put in a small push for SpeedBleeders. They make brake bleeding an easy, one-guy job. There are machines that can do the job, but with SpeedBleeders, you can do the work anywhere that you have brake fluid and the correct spanner. Those guys sell a "brake fluid catch bag" which also helps you very nicely.
Inside the front brake lever, there is a brass bushing that pushes the front Master Cylinder push-rod. If this bushing is worn, you will not get enough travel at the rod to apply full front braking. At a minimum, clean and lubricate that bushing. You can get a new bushing from RPM; the store banner is at the top of this page. They host this forum.
It helps when bleeding brakes if you "side-step" the brake lever after each brake application, letting the lever snap back as fast as the return spring will move it.
With SS braided hoses, new fluid, and good bleeding,
expect to use real caution at first, when you jump on the brakes.
.
Take a lot of pictures of those white wheels now.
About 5 miles down the road, they will be covered in brake dust, never to be white again.
Oh and also, chain goo on the rear
Be careful with insurers here Jan, telling them you've disconnected the ABS system will likely get you a huge increase in premium (on the basis that you are making the bike more dangerous), but if not, you might want to make sure thee aren't exclusions in any policy that severely reduce your cover/benefits.
My MOT tester knows which FJ's should have ABS (he used to race FJ's and is close to the UK FJOC) and has said he wouldn't pass a one which has had them disconnected/removed - if DVLA found out he could be in big trouble, both personally and his business, and if there was an accident involving such a bike that he'd passed, he could face a serious criminal prosecution as well.
What you're thinking of doing could open a real nest of vipers if you ever had an accident....even if that risk is extremely small, you should be aware of it. Personally, in the UK, I think the best option for you is new discs, brake lines, calipers etc and make sure you system is working as well as it can be. :good2:
What if it has ABS but it doesn't work? The ABS on my '93 never worked and it only had 6500 miles when I bought it.
And AFAIK, you can no longer get the ABS pump. Does the MOT check if the ABS actually works?
If it has ABS but it doesn't work, it'll fail the MOT (my old Nissan pick-up failed for a non-functional ABS system a few years ago). They test the braking by putting the wheel on driven rotors and applying the brakes until they get the maximum braking force, bringing the wheel to a halt. When they do that, if the ABS doesn't activate, then I'd guess they'd notice.
I'd also guess your Govt safety checks o vehicles aren't as strict as ours - sometimes I think ours are overly strict, but then again, when I hear of things that cars/bikes get failed for, I thus maybe its better to be safe than sorry !
Thanks for the positive insights - very helpful
So
I checked with my insurers today here in the UK (Carole Nash) - they were fine with modifications to the bike and alterations to the braking system - to improve it or even remove the abs that was heavy and of unqualified benefit. Ok to fit current sized wheels to improve the tyre choice and handling, only that they couldn't be made of carbon or magnesium not be oversized like you see on some choppers. As for the MOT always look for the friend in the garage...I used to go to one in central Birmingham called Vale Onslow. Park up, log into MOT computer, have a cup of tea and chat about bikes - wait 10 minutes - issue certificate - get an advisory for nit doing enough miles on the bike....
Think the brake lines, discs and pads are definitely a good place to start. Also will think on the wheels & blue spot options, perhaps not in white. Saw this XJR 1300 wheel 17 x 3.5...looks like a good place to start
Might have to sleeve the spindle from 17-15mm
Have any of you had any successful experience of fitting these?
Cheers
Jan
Just check that the XJR wheel will work with your speedo drive and that the discs will match up with your fork and caliper alignment/spacing before you buy a XJR wheel.
My insurers were perfectly happy with the mods to my FJ - everything has been done to "modernise" the bike so that it can use modern tyres and improve its braking and handling to make it safer :good2:. But they specifically said that either elongating the forks or disabling OE ABS systems on any bike would not be acceptable within the parameters of my premium.
Your "friendly" MOT man might be in for a shock soon, as all test centres are going to have to have their testing equipment linked to the DVLA so that every result of each part of the test is instantly recorded on their systems (and they can monitor progress through the test process). As I understand it, it is specifically to prevent the "sit and have a cuppa while we do the paperwork" MOT's that some less than scrupulous testers offer.
My friend who does my MOT's has said he never expects to find anything wrong with our bikes (I sometimes use his garage and equipment to do my own maintenance), but he reckons he owes it to me to thoroughly check my bike.
Different strokes for different folks though and it was only through Steve telling me of some of the horror stories he'd found on "customer maintained" bikes that he'd had in for MOT tests, that I thought it best that he did proper tests on our bikes (just in case I'd missed something).
But I must admit, I'd be mortified/embarrassed if he failed one of our bikes :biggrin: :biggrin:
Quote from: 2big on April 14, 2020, 12:35:44 PM
- to improve it or even remove the abs that was heavy and of unqualified benefit.
Heavy? I suppose. Unqualified benefit? Not true. False. Fake News. Never.
Removing it to save weight is fine. But where would you get the idea that it's of unqualified benefit? Just don't toss it in the bin. Keep everything associated with it and shelve it. You never know you might want it reinstalled one day. Or you can sell it off on EBay easily enough. Might even pay for the wheels.
Quote from: PaulG on April 14, 2020, 04:05:12 PM
Quote from: 2big on April 14, 2020, 12:35:44 PM
- to improve it or even remove the abs that was heavy and of unqualified benefit.
Rode the FJ into work today. Great weather empty roads - like motorcycling should be. Really need to get the brakes working properly. Period!
Also sort the annoying vibration from the fairing pocket....
So with a tight budget it's all about making it work with budget upgrades
Agreed Paul hang onto the abs unit it may work! I keep all the stuff from all my bikes. Found a blue spot rear calliper under my desk this morning and a CNC machined calliper hanger from the last bike project a 350LC with a drag tuned Duncan racing banshee engine....
Update - new 'motobatt' lithium battery fitted - saved 3.5kg weight and works a treat.
Removed the 'stabilisers' or engine bars as they need a repaint and that saved another 3.5kg...tempted not to put them back on. It's not like I'm planning to fall off!
Next stop the brakes - remove (and keep) the abs and fit the blue spots, how much does the abs system weigh?
Also working on a new GSXR rear wheel - saw somewhere that saves a few kg more
Hey Jan,
Just reading through this and I thought of a couple of things.
1) To dampen vibration in/from the fairing, I covered every mounting bolt junction between the plastic and metal with self adhesive foam washers/pads. (and also covered the bracket that the reserve switch sits on). I bought a couple of A4 sheets of self adhesive foam from Hobbycraft (£1 each I think, or maybe 50p each), used a paper hole punch to make bolt holes and then just cut the appropriate shape to match the mount with a pair of scissors - and all the buzzing and vibration has gone. But also, maybe you have a little piece of stone/gravel sitting in the bottom of the pocket (you don't need to ask how I know that makes an annoying buzz :sarcastic:). I've been using that foam for a while now and it also sorted out buzzing from the Fazer 1000 (FZ1) fairing too.
And
2) I saw a picture of a pink stripe FJ the other day with gold wheels and I thought it really set off the paint job and made it look just a bit "different" - maybe something to think about before you fit the new wheels finally.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_12_05_20_5_20_29.jpeg)
Quote from: Millietant on May 12, 2020, 06:15:30 AM
Hey Jan,
Just reading through this and I thought of a couple of things.
1) To dampen vibration in/from the fairing, I covered every mounting bolt junction between the plastic and metal with self adhesive foam washers/pads. (and also covered the bracket that the reserve switch sits on). I bought a couple of A4 sheets of self adhesive foam from Hobbycraft (£1 each I think, or maybe 50p each), used a paper hole punch to make bolt holes and then just cut the appropriate shape to match the mount with a pair of scissors - and all the buzzing and vibration has gone. But also, maybe you have a little piece of stone/gravel sitting in the bottom of the pocket (you don't need to ask how I know that makes an annoying buzz :sarcastic:). I've been using that foam for a while now and it also sorted out buzzing from the Fazer 1000 (FZ1) fairing too.
Jan has a rubber mounted motor model, I must have taken my fairing off twenty times in the early days chasing vibrations and buzzing, just about had a controlling interest in the foam tape company.
The key to it all, which remains so to this day and hundreds of thousands of km's later, was to simply fix the source, the engine mounts!
Get rid of the vibes and there's nothing to cause the buzzing. These model bikes with the engine mount lubed are literally turbine smooth, smoother than most modern in-line 4's.
Some owners have found the difference so night and day words fail them, particularly if they've put up with the vibes for years. Highway speeds in top gear it's difficult to tell if the motor running (well, almost :biggrin:)
Noel
I suppose I'm lucky, having the "old" solid mounted model :sarcastic:. Never actually experienced the smoothness of a 3XW, but I do know what you mean about even my old FJ being so smooth and quiet (on standard exhaust) at highway speeds, especially on the. 18/38 sprockets.
The Aprilia RSV still made the FJ feel like a buzz box though. On standard gearing that thing felt like it was just ticking over at 80mph in top gear !
Quote from: Millietant on May 12, 2020, 08:24:54 AM
The Aprilia RSV still made the FJ feel like a buzz box though. On standard gearing that thing felt like it was just ticking over at 80mph in top gear !
Funny you say that Dean, I rode a BMW S1000XR a couple of years ago. When I first became aware of them I thought the bike Gods had been peaking into my dreams, a 1000RR motor (well, most of one) in a GS frame, yeeeees!
Yes it was quick and yes it did this and that but the one thing I remember most was the vibration (and induction noise that required ear plugs) that I guess I wasn't expecting, having just stepped off the FJ.
Those FJ's well set up really are smooth.
Noel
The vibes the vibes - they drive you crazy! goes away when you switch it off and starting pulling it to bits....
Great advice to lube the mounts - copper grease? Turbine smoothness here we come.
To try and isolate the source I had stuffed a scouring sponge into the cigarette pocket and catch which helped, then noticed the left mirror glass was 'loose' in its frame so to add to the slightly scruffy (& hopefully temporary) patina went round the edge of the mirror glass with some black insulation tape. That helped too. So will add some cbr mirrors to the list unless there's a yamaha alternative that allows a decent view of the road behind.
I'm tempted to change the colour too...go all out for an FZ750/ FJ1100 red black silver or a 1TX red and white.
I know it's sacrilege to lose the factory paint but these colours look slimmer right?
Silver red and black pint, black frame and wheels look so trick in an 80's way
So does the fairing - I know the FJ's barn door is super efficient but the bike would look lighter again if you cut the original one down, used an FJ100 fairing (I know it's not a straight swap) or perhaps make one of those FZ's fit my 3XW..z
I changed the pads for softer ones, more by luck than design. Made a difference, although mine is a 3CV.
I love both of those FJ colour schemes Jan :good2: and I think the FZ 750 scheme is really classy, especially with the gold wheels.
Not sure about going back to the 1100 fairing though - is the 3XW fairing much bigger than the 3CV? With the smaller screen it doesn't "feel" like a big tourer :sarcastic:
Howdo, from England. There's a decent U.K. FJ group on Facebook. The earlier 3CV swingarm is ally, might save you a few grams and doesn't rust.
Quote from: ribbert on May 12, 2020, 08:49:48 AM
Quote from: Millietant on May 12, 2020, 08:24:54 AM
The Aprilia RSV still made the FJ feel like a buzz box though. On standard gearing that thing felt like it was just ticking over at 80mph in top gear !
Funny you say that Dean, I rode a BMW S1000XR a couple of years ago. When I first became aware of them I thought the bike Gods had been peaking into my dreams, a 1000RR motor (well, most of one) in a GS frame, yeeeees!
Yes it was quick and yes it did this and that but the one thing I remember most was the vibration (and induction noise that required ear plugs) that I guess I wasn't expecting, having just stepped off the FJ.
Those FJ's well set up really are smooth.
Noel
LOL - the RSV wasn't smooth Noel, but the V-Twin engine vibes at motorway speeds seemed to make the bike feel like it was ticking over, rather than revving. A strange feeling at first, but very relaxing (not at all like a Harley "rumble" though). :sarcastic:
Quote from: 2big on April 29, 2020, 05:54:27 PM
Update - new 'motobatt' lithium battery fitted - saved 3.5kg weight and works a treat.
Removed the 'stabilisers' or engine bars as they need a repaint and that saved another 3.5kg...tempted not to put them back on. It's not like I'm planning to fall off!
Next stop the brakes - remove (and keep) the abs and fit the blue spots, how much does the abs system weigh?
Also working on a new GSXR rear wheel - saw somewhere that saves a few kg more
3CV ally swing Arm?
Good shout on the battery, save the trouble of looking. I believe you need a Li-ion specific charger. Ctek do one https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/lithium-xs (https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/lithium-xs)
Quote from: Millietant on May 14, 2020, 03:59:02 PM
I love both of those FJ colour schemes Jan :good2: and I think the FZ 750 scheme is really classy, especially with the gold wheels.
Not sure about going back to the 1100 fairing though - is the 3XW fairing much bigger than the 3CV? With the smaller screen it doesn't "feel" like a big tourer :sarcastic:
Agreed the best....I tried to buy that red and white 1TX from a bike shop in Switzerland but Covid put a stop to European travel. In sunnier times perhaps. I really liked the idea of taking a flight? Buying it and it riding home across Europe like an FJ should....
I know - it is a tourer the small fairings don't fit but I want to make mine a bit slimmer. What does the 1100 fairing feel like at speed if you're over 6' tall?
Those FJ's well set up really are smooth.
Noel
[/quote]
LOL - the RSV wasn't smooth Noel, but the V-Twin engine vibes at motorway speeds seemed to make the bike feel like it was ticking over, rather than revving. A strange feeling at first, but very relaxing (not at all like a Harley "rumble" though). :sarcastic:
[/quote]
I ride a KTM 1290 adventure and with its over square pistons knocks Like an old Brit bike at low revs, give it the beans and it's so quick and smooth. Fairing is tiny tho which helps keep my motorway speeds down.
The FJ by comparison is turbine like all the way through and there's nothing like the sound of the engine on a 4 into 1 pipe. The fairings so big I could sit there all day. All really comfy apart from the low seat and pegs which are a bit cramped and after the Ktm when I pull up feels like I'm riding the heaviest fastest pit bike ever.
Has anyone fitted a tall seat or low pegs?
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 17, 2020, 01:23:36 AM
Quote from: 2big on April 29, 2020, 05:54:27 PM
Update - new 'motobatt' lithium battery fitted - saved 3.5kg weight and works a treat.
Removed the 'stabilisers' or engine bars as they need a repaint and that saved another 3.5kg...tempted not to put them back on. It's not like I'm planning to fall off!
Next stop the brakes - remove (and keep) the abs and fit the blue spots, how much does the abs system weigh?
Also working on a new GSXR rear wheel - saw somewhere that saves a few kg more
3CV ally swing Arm?
Good shout on the battery, save the trouble of looking. I believe you need a Li-ion specific charger. Ctek do one https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/lithium-xs (https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/lithium-xs)
Hi Steve, yep really chuffed with the Motobatt, bought from Tayna just over the border into Wales it arrived the next day. Never thought I'd enjoy buying a new battery! Spending big but getting big gains in weight and performance. Tho the FJ was one of the easiest bikes I've ever owned to bump start it's made a massive improvement with cranking amps
https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/motobatt/mplx12u-hp/ (https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/motobatt/mplx12u-hp/)
Bought a smart charger at the same time Inc delivery it was £130
https://www.tayna.co.uk/battery-chargers/noco/g1100/ (https://www.tayna.co.uk/battery-chargers/noco/g1100/)
As for a 3CV alloy swing arm sounds great but that's a world of pain as my 3XW has the offset shock link to clear the abs pump (which I shall be removing) needs the frame welding?
If I was going to change I'd ideally go for a braced swing arm like a YZF 750 or an early R1....
Need to get these wheels and brakes fitted first...
If you're ditching your ABS pump the swap the linkage from the 3CV too.
I've used Tayna many times
Good advice Steve
Sure that will fit. May wait to do an R1 swing arm tho it would look better (more endurance racer) braced and alloy...
I've been working on the GSXR rear wheel, bought a calliper today from a furloughed Landrover design engineer nice chap in Solihull Birmingham local to me .... Americans might not appreciate how special it is in the UK "brilliant sunshine" it's been incredible weather here ever since lock down started!
I digress, back to the nuts and bolts - underslung Gixer rear calliper, long Gixer torque arm, fitted to 3XW stock steel swing arm.....I've read a few horror stories on here with the use of that very tempting footrest bolt going badly wrong. I was thinking up all sorts of custom CNC parts to transfer the arm fixing from the top mount to the bottom (envelope sketches attached). Surely the easy answer is to weld a steel boss on the underside of the swing arm and repaint it?
With a good weld, I don't think you need anything so elaborate.
A simple tab made out of 1/2" aluminum stock with (2) 1/4" fillet welds ~1" long (one each side of the tab) will get the job done.
That is what is on my Thunder Ace swinger.
I presume you mean mild steel stock Pat, as Jan's 3XW has a steel swinging arm, not aluminium - to have got this all mixed up ?
I simply cut the tab off the top. And bolted it to the torque arm. Swinger out of the frame with wheel and caliper all bolted together. and welded it to the swinger where it landed. Easy peàsy.(87 FZR torque arm) the gsxr 600 caliper That was before I got
Yep that sounds like a plan (as Dean says it's a stock 3XW steel swing arm) - just cut, drill and profile a tab out of eg 6 or 10mm steel for a decent weld to the swing arm section. Will this change in material thickness be ok or should I laser cut and bend up a bracket out of similar gauge?
Have to say 'giantkiller' very tidy - liking the cut down foot rest hanger it all looks particularly neat and trim down there. You ditched the pillion pegs - have you shorted the seat also?
The 1350 still has the stock tail frame. I have a Corbin gun fighter seat. The turbo bike has a short tail.
Custom seat
Where did the exhaust hanger come from on the 1350 bike Dan - that looks like the one on the 3XW, but your bike looks like it started life as a 1TX ?
I made it out of a piece of plate steal. With a couple of hole aaws, a hand held jigsaw, and a belt sander. You can make anything with a harbor freight belt sander.
Quote from: giantkiller on June 02, 2020, 02:21:45 AM
I made it out of a piece of plate steal. With a couple of hole aaws, a hand held jigsaw, and a belt sander. You can make anything with a harbor freight belt sander.
Better than the "strap" hangers people use these days. Nice one Dan.
Tidy rear calliper mount too!
So did you just cut off the rear rails? I note you've not fitted the pillion grips nor the seat & helmet lock (work in progress?) also that you've cut back the side panels....are these changes as a consequence of the seat subframe chop? there's loads of brackets and tabs on it...
I was thinking about making a new rear subframe that comes off the same mountings but angles up in a line following the foot rear casting to the Bottom of the tank and then follows that line back to add an extra couple of inches to the seat height and fit an R7 fibreglass seat?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264610858659 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264610858659)
Which if I was patient enough could end up looking like this....
https://pin.it/4bmABAo (https://pin.it/4bmABAo)
Sounds like a lot of hassle (no harbour freight sanders here either
I cut the tail frame down and put a small section of smaller diameter pipe inside. And welded a hand made bracket to it way overkill for something no one is going to set on anyway. I have a tendency to do that. I'm going to fill in the indents. For the grab hadles with plastic. Make it all pretty.part of the side panel that's taped off is going to be screen for the turbo intake. Will follow the original contours. Bike will be midnight blue with red stock graphics. Cutting everything off that I can. The side plates are already cut down the same as the 1350. The turbo kit came with jetted carb. And said was good for 200hp. On pump gas. But that was without today's boost controllers. Hoping to tweek it to more than that. I do have 2 big block kits that I purchased. In case I get bored with the power it makes.
Does the wastegate just dump to the atmosphere? I would have expected to be located after the turbo...
Quote from: fj1289 on June 03, 2020, 05:32:55 AM
Does the wastegate just dump to the atmosphere? I would have expected to be located after the turbo...
The turbo kit was built in 89. The guy. I got it from had RB racing (they build streetadble 300hp HD baggers now) build it back in 89. Never got around to installing it. Said he got involved in building a Lamborghini drag car. And sold the bike and forgot about the kit. I bought it from him off fleabay for $1500.
Yes it dumps out. There is no room under the seat with the turbo. Going to put r1 braced swingarm (slightly longer) and Gixxer inverted front on it. The 1350 weighs just over 500lbs. This is going to be lighter. But then add the weight of the turbo.
Cool! Can't wait to see it running in anger!
Me either. All projects got put on hold. When I started this house. Just can't seem to get there. I have another kool project that's been on hold too smart car powered by Yamaha RX1 sled motor. Easy 300hp with turbo. And only about 1500lbs. Sled variable clutch easy 10 seconds. Woo hoo
Quote from: fj1289 on June 03, 2020, 12:13:50 PM
Cool! Can't wait to see it running in anger!
So cool! I'd like to hear it - have you had it running yet?
The post man woke me up this morning with these bad boys...decided to get some Arashi rotors as you were all raving about them, Skywave similar looking and more readily available here in the UK. Arashi were slightly thicker. Lighter too at under 3kg a pair. Time to repaint and renew bearings on the FZ genesis front wheel and fit the blue spots....That should be a few kg saved by ditching the ABS!
Those rotors look big, what size (dia.) are they?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 20, 2020, 11:08:49 AM
Those rotors look big, what size (dia.) are they?
I was thinking the same thing.
No worries - 298mm, same as existing abs disc/rotors
Perhaps an illusion as there's no tyre on the rim
Or they're a bit shiny - the only 'new' thing on the bike
Blue spots fit well
I need to turn up a spacer to take up the front abs plate - size 15mm internal diameter, 32mm external diameter x 17.5mm thickness otherwise the 1000 genesis wheel drops straight in
Many fixing bolts, screws and clamps to refinish or replace....
The road is long
Time for beer!