Clutch disengages and engages ok as far as I can tell. Slave and M/C already rebuilt and bled.
Bike is just a bitch to shift when riding. Especially upshifting.
Not had the bike too long so not experienced it shifting well. Not sure if clutch is stock or not.
Currently running shell rotella 15w40 oil.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Maybe check the shift-shaft.
It runs through the side cover for the front sprocket, and through the space where the chain runs through.
Sometimes it gets covered in chain-lube and grime and gunk, causing it to not pivot freely.
Maybe take the cover off and clean/grease where it passes through the cover.
Also the shifter bolt itself may have grit (the one the foot-lever pivots on.
Make sure that is cleaned and greased periodically also.
Hello, my 86 run on Rotella had a problem getting out of neutral into first at junctions. Over the course of time I replaced the clutch pack, doubled up on the springs, made sure not to lose the ball bearing, got rid of the funny spring thing, replaced all the clutch slave seals, spent ages trying to bleed the system, upgraded bar levers, replaced entire hose run with braided goodies. By far the biggest difference was eventually biting the bullet and getting an RPM replacement slave and have Randy bled it with his professional hands. Since then no problems. I kinda wish they'd gone with a cable set up. Good luck, it's a known thing on this forum.
Quote from: the_kirkwood on March 31, 2020, 10:25:45 AMClutch disengages and engages ok as far as I can tell. Slave and M/C already rebuilt and bled.
Bike is just a bitch to shift when riding. Especially upshifting. Any advice would be appreciated.
QuoteAlso the shifter bolt itself may have grit (the one the foot-lever pivots on.
Make sure that is cleaned and greased periodically also.
Kirkwood,
I think Firehawk is on the right track. The footshifter pivot can get almost locked by crud. Remove, clean, and lube the pivot, and the other external shift linkage pivots. Also, there is a bronze bushing in the clutch lever, that pushes the master cylinder rod. This is
not for the lever pivot bolt. Clean and lube the bushing also. If the bushing is very worn, you won't get enough clutch throw to fully disengage the clutch. That problem can cause hard shifting. I think the bushing can be had new separately, or maybe it is in the clutch rebuild kit. You can "fix" a worn bushing temporarily by inserting a tiny washer into the hole in the bushing; if that trick helps, you need to get a new bushing.
Keep us posted. :yes:
.
The bushing that RED is referring to looks like this
Worn-out one on top.
New replacement on the bottom.
Randy sells them separately.......and I can confirm, this bushing fits the original FJ1100-1200 levers as well as the FJR1300 levers.
Oiling the shift linkages under the dust boots does the trick for me and the difference is always huge. I just spray silicone oil inside the boots and work it a bit by hand.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15382.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15382.0)
You mention Rotella oil. The ONE time I tried diesel oil in my FZ1, I couldn't get around the block fast enough to immediately drain that shit out of it.
The transmission action was absolutely horrible. Try some decent oil.
This was using the conventional Rotella. Synthetic may be better.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 03, 2020, 04:06:48 PM
You mention Rotella oil. The ONE time I tried diesel oil in my FZ1, I couldn't get around the block fast enough to immediately drain that shit out of it.
The transmission action was absolutely horrible. Try some decent oil.
This was using the conventional Rotella. Synthetic may be better.
I also felt my transmission did not work as well with Rotella.
I've used it in other bikes without a problem.
Low powered bikes....
thanks for all the responses.
Already replaced the little brass thingy when I rebuilt the master cylinder. Installed new lever also.
New braided line to slave installed also.
When I check the linkage by hand with the bike off everything moves freely so I don't think it is the linkage being full of crud.
I never did ask the previous owner what he was using for oil? I read the 15w40 diesel oil isnt a bad choice.
Would this be true if the clutch is not stock?
Any other oils you would recommend I try and see if it makes a difference?
thanks
I had issues with hard shifting and when cold sticking clutch plates. Turned out it was an after market clutch. I installed an OEM clutch and the roller bearing shift kit from RPM. No hard shifting and no sticking clutch plates.