Question for those that have swapped their front ends or dropped their forks. How much have you dropped the front (or jacked up the rear), how's it handle?
To each his own, but in my opinion:
1) The secret sauce is the shock, replace it. The FJ's oem shock was weak the day it left Iwata, Japan.
2) Leave the front ride height alone.
3) Replace the weak oem fork springs and get the proper fork valves.
4) Raise the back.
5) Put the bike on it's center stand. About 3/4" clearance between the ground and back tire is perfect.
The FJ's handling is improved by transferring more weight on to the front tire.
Don't over do it. As stable as the FJ is, you can make it a twitchy critter if you try hard enough.
Experiment for yourself.
Cheers
I remember reading about dropping forks and most sources came in with 5mm max, so that's what mine has.
Certainly a good rear spring unit helps out. Luckily mine came with a Fox double clicker, which does kick the back up slightly.
You can spend a lot of time/money tweaking suspension and it's time/money well spent. The biggest improvement I found was front fork internals, like RPM valves and race tech springs. That addition was night and day difference.
Like Pat suggests, it's a fun and involving project getting your Fj just right for you. You don't often hear an Fj referred to as twitchy, but if you find one that is, get off and park immediately
Yes, a big heavy FJ that is twitchy is not what you want.
So how would you raise the rear on a stock FJ1100?
The only way I know to raise the rear of a totally stock FJ1100 (original shock) is via the dog bones. My Penske shock was adjustable and I raised the rear end to the point where the tire was 1/4" off the ground when on the center stand, however, it also has 17" wheels so that also factors in to the equation.
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on March 25, 2020, 09:55:49 PM
Question for those that have swapped their front ends or dropped their forks. How much have you dropped the front (or jacked up the rear), how's it handle?
My bike tips in more easily than any FJ I've ridden, I also have a stock one myself for reference.
While shockers and forks obviously matter, in this instance we are only talking about lowering the front and the effect that has on the bike.
My bike is probably subjected to as much challenging and extreme conditions as any bike here, and I can't fault it's behaviour in corners. Nothing unsettles it, it's not twitchy holding a line, it stands up nicely, it self-centres well and there is no hint of straight line instability at any speed or load/weight configuration. Even if the need to brake hard through the corner arises, doing so is only limited by grip and it maintains the line and neutral feel at the bars. I also attribute this mod to not needing a fork brace, not having broken tabs on the front guard and having only been through two sets of fork seals (it needs the third set now) in 265k.
Dare I say, it now might even be an easier ride over many hours of non-stop corners than the BMW!
I have said here many times, I can steer my bike with my eyes. It's an absolute delight to ride through corners at any speed or conditions as it's set up. A better shocker, forks and tyres only improves things further.
After much trial and error I dropped the front 17mm, added risers to bring the bars back up (photo) and have the rear raised (but not too much) It really is in a sweet spot.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49700882452_519eff2c88_c.jpg)
I've removed the technical info to make the target smaller, but if you are interested in how raising one or the other or both ends affects a bike, I'm sure there are plenty of write ups on net, it's a fascinating subject if you like that sort of stuff.
If you just want it to turn in better, just do it!
Noel
Opinion disclaimer......
Quote from: Motofun on March 26, 2020, 08:21:23 AM
The only way I know to raise the rear of a totally stock FJ1100 (original shock) is via the dog bones. My Penske shock was adjustable and I raised the rear end to the point where the tire was 1/4" off the ground when on the center stand, however, it also has 17" wheels so that also factors in to the equation.
Jack, no dog bones on the '84-87 FJ's. Unless you convert the shock linkage over to the '89/90, the only way to raise the rear up on the early FJ's is thru an adjustable shock....like the Penske.
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on March 25, 2020, 09:55:49 PM
Question for those that have swapped their front ends or dropped their forks. How much have you dropped the front (or jacked up the rear), how's it handle?
I've messed with the suspension quite a bit - lowered the front about 3/4" when I swapped early R1 forks. Also raised the rear enough that the center stand was useless. No "twitchy-ness" and no mis-behaving as far as I can tell. (also an FZ1 swing arm and FZR1000 shock with an FJ1100 spring if I remember correctly). So your results may vary - but I wouldn't be too concerned about it!
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/171_25_04_10_12_43_03_0.jpeg)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 26, 2020, 10:22:11 AM
Jack, no dog bones on the '84-87 FJ's. Unless you convert the shock linkage over to the '89/90, the only way to raise the rear up on the early FJ's is thru an adjustable shock....like the Penske.
Penske Sport Shock was my solution. Forks (with RPM springs and valves) and rear tire on the ground on the centerstand.
Thanks for the replies guys.
I should have given more details. My front end swap drops it 30mm inch and a quarter to my colonial cousins and intend knocking up some shorter adjustable dog bones.
I could raise the front with a new offset billet yoke or by removing or shortening the anti rebound springs.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 26, 2020, 04:52:43 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 26, 2020, 10:22:11 AM
Jack, no dog bones on the '84-87 FJ's. Unless you convert the shock linkage over to the '89/90, the only way to raise the rear up on the early FJ's is thru an adjustable shock....like the Penske.
Penske Sport Shock was my solution. Forks (with RPM springs and valves) and rear tire on the ground on the centerstand.
This is my exact setup on my 86 except my rear wheel is just off the ground when on the center stand. No shakes or shimmies, and handles like a dream.
Friends who have modern sport bikes cannot believe how stable and easy steering it is. My buddies stock FJ11 handles like a heavy truck compared.. :pardon:
Jake....
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on March 27, 2020, 02:06:07 PM
Thanks for the replies guys.
I should have given more details. My front end swap drops it 30mm inch and a quarter to my colonial cousins and intend knocking up some shorter adjustable dog bones.
I could raise the front with a new offset billet yoke or by removing or shortening the anti rebound springs.
How does it handle/ride that low?
No idea mate, ongoing project
I really can't remember how much the gsxr front ends lowered the front. I have them set the same. But the 86 has the Honda shock on the back. the tire is lightly on the ground on centerstand. Not twitchy at all. I had my neighbor who was a very good super bike racer. Since moved on to factory sponsored snow cross racer. Take it for a ride to see what he thought of what I had done. I could tell he really didn't want to but he did. He was gone so long I was getting quite worried. And when he came back up the driveway. I could see a shit eating grin. Through the visor of the helmet. He took off his helmet. And said " I don't know what you did with the geometry but you got it just right." He said he was expecting a big wallowing heavy bike. He said it actually turns in better than his race bike a gsxr1000. Said he took it through the corners he uses to test suspension settings on the race bike. One corner has some stutter bumps. And couldn't get it unsettled.
I have Thunder Ace fork on my FJ they are about 25mm shorter than original FJ forks. Fitted with custom springs and a Wilber shock on the back I have a quick and light steering bike with plenty of ground clearance to go with my spirited riding.
This thread got me thinking it was about time for me to manufacture some new dog bones.
Having to work last night, I seized the opportunity.
These dog bones are 115mm centre to centre.
Square ends.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6034_04_04_20_11_29_00.jpeg)
End rounding
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6034_04_04_20_11_30_26.jpeg)
View from the left.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6034_04_04_20_11_35_27.jpeg)
View from the right.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6034_04_04_20_11_36_49.jpeg)
Have not had a chance to test ride yet and with the lock down, it may be a while.
I do ride the FJ to work every day but, 1km, turn left, 17km, turn left. that's it.
Still, better than nothing.
Looking forward to a decent test ride.
Gavin
Forgive me for sounding stupid but are those lowering or lifting the rear end?
Quote from: fj-f3a on April 05, 2020, 12:52:12 AM
This thread got me thinking it was about time for me to manufacture some new dog bones.
Having to work last night, I seized the opportunity.
These dog bones are 115mm centre to centre.
Square ends.
Gavin
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on April 05, 2020, 06:08:46 AM
Forgive me for sounding stupid but are those lowering or lifting the rear end?
Not a stupid question.
It can be confusing.
Shortening the dog bones from 125mm to 115mm reduces the clearance between the rear tyre and the road when the bike is on the centre stand.
Therefore, when the rear tyre is on the ground, the rear end of the bike is higher. I know. I was able to place the entire sole of my foot on the road and now I have to stretch.
The dog bones are under tension.
Gavin
Quote from: fj-f3a on April 05, 2020, 06:39:30 AM
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on April 05, 2020, 06:08:46 AM
Forgive me for sounding stupid but are those lowering or lifting the rear end?
Not a stupid question.
It can be confusing.
Shortening the dog bones from 125mm to 115mm reduces the clearance between the rear tyre and the road when the bike is on the centre stand.
Therefore, when the rear tyre is on the ground, the rear end of the bike is higher. I know. I was able to place the entire sole of my foot on the road and now I have to stretch.
The dog bones are under tension.
Gavin
Okay thanks. I didn't know what stock length was. Makes plenty of sense now. Is your rear suspension stock? I've been looking at doing the f4i shock. Not sure what it does to ride height but from what I read it'll ride and handle better with out spending the money of changing the whole rear end out
The Honda shock dropped the tire raising the back of the bike on the 1350. If you do it. Unless you are really light. You can get a eibach spring 900lbs.. If I remember right. It's the highest rated spring you can put on the Honda shock that still works with the stock valving (according to the Honda forums). Been running one on the 1350. Since I resurrected it. I think I have $170 into it shock,spring, bigger bracket (washer thing) and spring compressor. It's been a long time. So don't remember. It's all in the write up for the shock.
Dan
Quote from: giantkiller on April 05, 2020, 08:59:38 AM
The Honda shock dropped the tire raising the back of the bike on the 1350. If you do it. Unless you are really light. You can get a eibach spring 900lbs.. If I remember right. It's the highest rated spring you can put on the Honda shock that still works with the stock valving (according to the Honda forums). Been running one on the 1350. Since I resurrected it. I think I have $170 into it shock,spring, bigger bracket (washer thing) and spring compressor. It's been a long time. So don't remember. It's all in the write up for the shock.
Dan
Thanks I remember seeing post about the bigger spring Pretty easy mod?
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on April 05, 2020, 08:02:18 AM
Is your rear suspension stock?
The shock I am using is a YSS, MZ456-300TR-29-X.
Gavin
Spring is probably the easiest part of the mod. Get a good spring compressor. And be careful. Compressed springs can be dangerous.
Quote from: giantkiller on April 06, 2020, 12:44:07 AM
Spring is probably the easiest part of the mod. Get a good spring compressor. And be careful. Compressed springs can be dangerous.
Haha, anyone who's had one let go knows!
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/51/ff/59/51ff59fbea3753ae420a927585e3ae20.jpg)
Noel
Yea I have done coil overs on cars before. Can be very dangerous
I'll just share this and slowly back out of the room......
Quote from: FJ1200W on April 06, 2020, 08:59:43 AM
I'll just share this and slowly back out of the room......
That's awesome. But you went the wrong way. Your supposed to go lower in the front and raise the rear :sarcastic:
Kinda opposite of a hard tail.....
An interesting design exercise, might look great on paper, but in building it, the proportions are all jacked.
Hmmmmm, an almost, but not quite. Cover the front end and the back single sided, three spoke set up looks tasty, but that Paris/Dakar sized tank and the scaffold pole forks need slimming. Pretty radical though. The sons of anarchy crowd will love it.
Interesting for sure
Quote from: andyoutandabout on April 06, 2020, 11:16:58 AM
Hmmmmm, an almost, but not quite. Cover the front end and the back single sided, three spoke set up looks tasty, but that Paris/Dakar sized tank and the scaffold pole forks need slimming. Pretty radical though. The sons of anarchy crowd will love it.
Not sure it would be good to ride, to say it would steer like a truck might be an insult to trucks - and I'd worry about the (jarring/fatigue with scaffold pole forks that long with no damping of the impact forces) loading the front end puts on the headstock....hoping the welds and tubing are suitable.
BUT, as motorcycle art.... I love it !!
Quote from: fj-f3a on April 05, 2020, 12:52:12 AM
This thread got me thinking it was about time for me to manufacture some new dog bones.
Having to work last night, I seized the opportunity.
These dog bones are 115mm centre to centre.
Square ends.
Wow great result Gavin, excuse me for jumping in....could be just what I'm looking for...so replacing the existing 125mm dog bone with 115mm one raises the seat height by how much? 30mm on a 3XW
May I ask - what stock material did you use?
was that in conjunction with the stock shock?
Cheers Jan
Hey Jan,
I think I read that Gavin has a YSS shock on his bike, but even with your standard shock this should maybe give nearly inch extra height at the rear and might give you a little bit of needed extra legroom (add that to some Buell footpegs, if they fit and you could have a fair bit of extra legroom :good:)
I know some people have made dog bones out of 1" x 1/4" flat mild steel - but not sure if that would be good enough though. I'm sure Gavin will advise.
Quote from: FJ1200W on April 06, 2020, 08:59:43 AM
I'll just share this and slowly back out of the room......
1st - NEVER seen a build make an FJ motor look small!
2nd - I've seen motocrossers with a lower rear rise height!
3rd - the silver clutch cover almost makes it look like a separate gear box just like a hardley
4th - so close to something really cool - instead landed on really goofy - so much missed potential
Quote from: 2big on May 22, 2020, 02:49:59 AM
Quote from: fj-f3a on April 05, 2020, 12:52:12 AM
This thread got me thinking it was about time for me to manufacture some new dog bones.
Having to work last night, I seized the opportunity.
These dog bones are 115mm centre to centre.
Square ends.
Wow great result Gavin, excuse me for jumping in....could be just what I'm looking for...so replacing the existing 125mm dog bone with 115mm one raises the seat height by how much? 30mm on a 3XW
May I ask - what stock material did you use?
was that in conjunction with the stock shock?
Cheers Jan
Jan
My "Stock Shock was Shot." (She sells sea shells, The sixth sick sheik, etc)
The YSS shock was recommended, affordable and easily getable.
The material is 316 stainless steel cut from a 150 X 150 angle iron and is nearly 7mm thick.
My intention is to manufacture as set from 4340 Steel Bar.
4340 is not available in flat bar, so I will have to machine a 40mm round bar.
I would then like to have them properly heat treated and ground to final thickness.
I feel Mild Steel flat bar would be OK in the short term.
Make sure it is at least 1/4" (6.35mm) thick and 32mm wide. DO NOT SKIMP on the Width.
Placing one over the other and tack welding each end is a tried and tested method for maintaining alignment.
Use a vertical milling machine or a pedestal drill in good condition for drilling the holes, NOT a HAND DRILL.
Try to be as accurate as possible in keeping the holes centered on the flat bar.
Use a 12mm drill bit. If pilot drilling remember, not too big. The pilot should only be as large or slightly smaller than the WEB of the 12mm drill bit. Remember to debur.
When rounding the ends, use as Hack Saw and File so as not to generate excessive heat.
Again, be accurate with the end rounding to keep as much "meat" as possible around the holes, a full 9mm (3/8")
You do not need to round both ends, but .......
If using Mils Steel or Stainless, please, do your Pre-Flight Checks before riding.
Remember to lift the rear wheel occasionally to check for Stretching around the holes.
We really should not use stainless for Structural Parts (well, maybe 17 4 PH is OK) as, from what I have been taught, it fatigues and cracks.
This is a fantastic mod. It reduced the "Bike on centre stand" rear wheel ground clearance from about 55mm to around 18mm.
The bike looks sexier, turns in better, is a darn side easier to lift onto the centre stand and it's possible to remove the rear axle without removing the muffler.
That's a Win, Win, Win, Win situation.
Gavin
PS
I forgot to add, after doing this mod, be careful when placing the bike on the side stand the first few times.
It is different!
Quote from: fj-f3a on May 22, 2020, 10:28:05 PM
Quote from: 2big on May 22, 2020, 02:49:59 AM
Quote from: fj-f3a on April 05, 2020, 12:52:12 AM
This thread got me thinking it was about time for me to manufacture some new dog bones.
Having to work last night, I seized the opportunity.
These dog bones are 115mm centre to centre.
Square ends.
Hayabusa bones might be your answer
Wow great result Gavin, excuse me for jumping in....could be just what I'm looking for...so replacing the existing 125mm dog bone with 115mm one raises the seat height by how much? 30mm on a 3XW
May I ask - what stock material did you use?
was that in conjunction with the stock shock?
Cheers Jan
Jan
My "Stock Shock was Shot." (She sells sea shells, The sixth sick sheik, etc)
The YSS shock was recommended, affordable and easily getable.
The material is 316 stainless steel cut from a 150 X 150 angle iron and is nearly 7mm thick.
My intention is to manufacture as set from 4340 Steel Bar.
4340 is not available in flat bar, so I will have to machine a 40mm round bar.
I would then like to have them properly heat treated and ground to final thickness.
I feel Mild Steel flat bar would be OK in the short term.
Make sure it is at least 1/4" (6.35mm) thick and 32mm wide. DO NOT SKIMP on the Width.
Placing one over the other and tack welding each end is a tried and tested method for maintaining alignment.
Use a vertical milling machine or a pedestal drill in good condition for drilling the holes, NOT a HAND DRILL.
Try to be as accurate as possible in keeping the holes centered on the flat bar.
Use a 12mm drill bit. If pilot drilling remember, not too big. The pilot should only be as large or slightly smaller than the WEB of the 12mm drill bit. Remember to debur.
When rounding the ends, use as Hack Saw and File so as not to generate excessive heat.
Again, be accurate with the end rounding to keep as much "meat" as possible around the holes, a full 9mm (3/8")
You do not need to round both ends, but .......
If using Mils Steel or Stainless, please, do your Pre-Flight Checks before riding.
Remember to lift the rear wheel occasionally to check for Stretching around the holes.
We really should not use stainless for Structural Parts (well, maybe 17 4 PH is OK) as, from what I have been taught, it fatigues and cracks.
This is a fantastic mod. It reduced the "Bike on centre stand" rear wheel ground clearance from about 55mm to around 18mm.
The bike looks sexier, turns in better, is a darn side easier to lift onto the centre stand and it's possible to remove the rear axle without removing the muffler.
That's a Win, Win, Win, Win situation.
Gavin
PS
I forgot to add, after doing this mod, be careful when placing the bike on the side stand the first few times.
It is different!
Thanks Gavin; great advice in fact a massive thanks to all you guys - honestly dont know how I'd sort this without your help.....
So inspection today suggests I've only got 28.5mm clearance under the new GSXR wheel when it's on the centre stand I'm looking to raise the ride height by 30mm, will that work on the stand?
I'm also concerned that when I take out the pivot pins and bushes the shock's gonna give me a whack. Is it under tension when at rest. What's the process for taking it all out? Should probably fit some grease nipples whilst I'm 'down there'.
Good shout on the hayabusa ones - 115mm length between centres
Existing is 125mm between centres, 155mm overall, 12mm clearance hole and, 6mm + material thickness, 18mm wide in the bone, 30mm wide at the knuckle ends
As always grateful for your help and advice
Cheers Jan
If the rear wheel is suspended and hanging free there is no compressive load on the shock. When you pull it the swingarm will drop to the ground. Measure the delta and use a shim, slightly thinner, and when you're done the rear will be higher and the rear tire will be ever so slightly off the ground when on the center stand. The bike will lean more when on the side stand so you may want to address that. I fabbed up some hockey pucks for that purpose. I ground the bottom of the side stand foot flat, drilled and tapped the foot in three places, then cut the puck to shape and counter sunk the mating holes.
Really simple method Jan, put a piece of wood in front of the back tyre and a piece behind the tyre. Push them both against the tyre to support it in it's position and when you take the bolts out, the wheel/swinging arm won't drop.
Or, if your wheel is out, just wedge something under the rear-most bit of the swinging arm, the end of forks (garden kneeler stool, toolbox, bits of wood etc) to stop it dropping when you remove the bolts.
Quote from: Motofun on May 25, 2020, 01:27:33 PM
If the rear wheel is suspended and hanging free there is no compressive load on the shock. When you pull it the swingarm will drop to the ground. Measure the delta and use a shim, slightly thinner, and when you're done the rear will be higher and the rear tire will be ever so slightly off the ground when on the center stand. The bike will lean more when on th side stand so you may want to address that. I fabbed up some hockey pucks for that purpose. I ground the bottom of the side stand foot flat, drilled and tapped the foot in three places, then cut the puck to shape and counter sunk the mating holes.
So the rear wheel has to be clear of the ground for the centre stand to work properly and that defines the max height of the raise? You're suggesting I use the washer spacer to ensure clearance and undo the old dog bones and use that drop height as a measurement to custom make some new ones? Good idea for the puck - have something similar on my ktm....
Quote from: Millietant on May 25, 2020, 03:55:26 PM
Really simple method Jan, put a piece of wood in front of the back tyre and a piece behind the tyre. Push them both against the tyre to support it in it's position and when you take the bolts out, the wheel/swinging arm won't drop.
Or, if your wheel is out, just wedge something under the rear-most bit of the swinging arm, the end of forks (garden kneeler stool, toolbox, bits of wood etc) to stop it dropping when you remove the bolts.
I just use a strap over the top and through the wheel to hold it up, same as I do to hold weight of wheel when I need to reinstall wheel or take it off.
They are knot just a tie Down strap, they can tie things Up too :good:
(Much better than rope in the bedroom or wherever) (popcorn)
Quote from: 2big on May 25, 2020, 05:17:00 PM
....You're suggesting I use the washer spacer to ensure clearance and undo the old dog bones and use that drop height as a measurement to custom make some new ones?
A washer is cutting it too close. You might get a new back tire that is slightly larger, then you're stuck. You can't roll your back tire for chain lubing or adjustments.
I suggest a 1/2" piece of plywood under the back tire.
Excellent advice - simple plan, worked a treat...
Hayabusa dog bones, 115mm between centres only £9 on eBay!
Probably worth fitting some grease nipples whilst I'm down there...
Many thanks guys; I'm off to the shops
Cheers Jan
Ignore my earlier comment; this thread has morphed into something wonderful. Think I see some Hayabusa dog bones in my future. Especially if they are like $9. If I don't use them I can always throw them at the wall for that price.
Glad to have helped :good: I believe it's the GEN 1 Busa bones that are 115mm. Please check before purchasing
Still didn't get my original question answered :sarcastic:
Looks like I'll be finding out what it's like dropping my front end 30mm when I do my R1 fork swap.
You won't have an issue with stability. You may have an issue with ground clearance - watch for bottoming your exhaust (especially with a 4-1) over speed bumps, etc.
Although my R1 forks were quite a bit shorter than FJ forks - I mounted them flush with the top of the triple clamp - made up a good amount of the difference. I'm using a tube handle bar mounted to the top clamp.
Quote from: fj1289 on May 28, 2020, 11:00:10 AM
You won't have an issue with stability. You may have an issue with ground clearance - watch for bottoming your exhaust (especially with a 4-1) over speed bumps, etc.
Although my R1 forks were quite a bit shorter than FJ forks - I mounted them flush with the top of the triple clamp - made up a good amount of the difference. I'm using a tube handle bar mounted to the top clamp.
The difference on mine will be, I believe 30mm. I pressed the stem into to lower yoke today and will offer everything up on my spare frame to work out how much to machine off the l/h fork so I can retain a mechanical speedo drive.
If it wasn't such a pita to post pictures on here I'd share.
:sorry:
Little Pink Steve-
That is looking awfully familiar to me... FZ 8 or 9 top Triple??? You will love the finished look.
Curious about the press in on the stem. Did you add an extension or build up material and then have it turned for proper clearance?
We added some length to the steering stem when I did my conversion to accommodate the thicker lower triple from the R1. I added fork extensions to my set up and then lowered the total front ride height by the 5mm Andy referred to as a reference "max". The rest of my adjustments came by raising the rear end. My back wheel sits about a half inch off the ground on the center stand.
The custom Penske shock I used connected up with an R1 billet aluminum dog bone has a spring with 1300lb weight. Regardless of the shock or spring weight you end up with in the back - get a torrington bearing kit in there to make adjustment SO much easier.
R1 4xv lower & FZ1 upper.
I'm using Thunderace wheels and Fazer swingarm.
What springs did you use in your R1 forks?
Fork Springs are Progressives for my weight. My parts were all 2007.
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM
Glad to have helped :good: I believe it's the GEN 1 Busa bones that are 115mm. Please check before purchasing
Still didn't get my original question answered :sarcastic:
Looks like I'll be finding out what it's like dropping my front end 30mm when I do my R1 fork swap.
Up 30 at the back and down 30 at the front...that's an aggressive stance! R1 forks and custom triple clamps - wow! awesome mods Steve.
Quote from: 2big on May 29, 2020, 05:31:24 PM
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM
Glad to have helped :good: I believe it's the GEN 1 Busa bones that are 115mm. Please check before purchasing
Still didn't get my original question answered :sarcastic:
Looks like I'll be finding out what it's like dropping my front end 30mm when I do my R1 fork swap.
Up 30 at the back and down 30 at the front...that's an aggressive stance! R1 forks and custom triple clamps - wow! awesome mods Steve.
Only thinking about a custom offset top yoke so it's only 10mm drop. I'm planning on touring on my ambulance and whilst chopping things about I still need comfort and stability.
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM
Only thinking about a custom offset top yoke so it's only 10mm drop. I'm planning on touring on my ambulance and whilst chopping things about I still need comfort and stability.
How long is the Fazer swingarm?? The 2007 R1 swingarm and ThunderAce swingarm both add abut 2" of length to stock wheelbase. I was worried about turn-in but the extra length is not noticeable to me and adds stability...
Score going through the effort and cost of a lowered top clamp - try it first and see if you even want it. Either way I highly doubt a "need" for it
:flag_of_truce:
Quote from: axiom-r on May 30, 2020, 04:42:41 PM
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on May 27, 2020, 11:28:20 PM
Only thinking about a custom offset top yoke so it's only 10mm drop. I'm planning on touring on my ambulance and whilst chopping things about I still need comfort and stability.
How long is the Fazer swingarm?? The 2007 R1 swingarm and ThunderAce swingarm both add abut 2" of length to stock wheelbase. I was worried about turn-in but the extra length is not noticeable to me and adds stability...
My understanding is the Thunderace swingarm is about the same as the FJ. The Fazer is around 50mm longer.
When I was doing my conversion I had a Thunderace and an R1 swingarm because I wasn't at all sure the R1 unit would go on. The Thunderace had been used by several others and was a confirmed positive upgrade. As I recall, the two swingarms were the same length - I might be forgetful on that....
Either way, the added 50mm of the Fazer unit will be a welcome feeling within the geometry and will allow more front end drop if you desire it without the dreaded twitch. Once the bike is together, fit new tires and confirm proper air pressures. Get up to a decent speed and roll off the throttle with your palms against the bar ends. You can feel if the bike wants to fall in as it slows down. Gently pushing on one side or the other will turn you in that direction and if it oscillates you have the kind of twitch that could be a tank slapper... raise the front up slightly and try again until you have the desired feeling. For whatever reason the oscillations "tank slappers" occur more frequently under a decelerating condition - which is why you can typically power out of them. I have no idea if the method I use (as described) is efficient or effective for everybody but I have found settings I really like doing it this way.