As I wrote in the Introdution section, I started a FJ1100 project from 2 bikes I got from a friend who gived them to me. One with paper and the other one for parts. Both bikes are in very rough condition. The one with the paper has a striped spark plug and drain plug. Lots of cracked body parts and rust. So I decided to do a resto mod and not only a restoration.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ1.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ1a.jpg)
I did a sketch of what it will look like when rebuild.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ2.jpg)
I started by taking apart the 2 bikes.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ3.jpg)
The first thing I did is shortened the subframe.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ4.jpg)
I removed 8" long
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ5.jpg)
I made some inserts with my lathe, put them in the frame tubes and welded it.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ6.jpg)
I cutted the seat and the sides panels
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ7.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ8.jpg)
I painted the frame black
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ9.jpg)
I really like your color choices. Looks VERY Yamaha
Thanks Paul!
Really cool. Can't wait to see the progress keep posting :good2:
Last weekend I cleaned and powder coated the handlebars and triple clamp.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ12.jpg)
Then I assembled the steering and rear suspension. I'm waiting for new fork seals to rebuild the front fork. I also want to make bypass plates to remove the anti-dive units.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ13.jpg)
Another batch of powder coated parts. I did those in glossy black.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ15.jpg)
I cleaned and sanded the wheels for powder coating. The one on the right is done and I left a 1/4" aluminium ring around the rim. This is to avoid scratching the paint when installing tires.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ14.jpg)
New Avon tires received. I ordered them at Fortnine.ca, very fast and free shipping. I placed the order Wednesday afternoon and I received them Tursday around noon!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ16.jpg)
I started to work on the engine. I took apart the one that look the badest and it is not too bad inside. Piston and cylinder are clean with no scratches.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ17.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ18.jpg)
Once cleaned
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ19.jpg)
I rebuilded the front suspension, installed the rear suspension, mounted the tires and installed the wheels.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ22.jpg)
I also made an experience for the bypass plate to replace the anti-dive. I decided to try to made those in polyethylene (PETG) plastic! It's strong and chemical resistant. I think it will work. If not, I will made some in aluminum. But let's try it!
First, I designed it in Fusion 360, my 3D design software.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ25.jpg)
Then I printed a draft part and tried it. It was perfect, so I printed 2 in PETG. I also cut some gaskets with my Silhouette cutter.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ23.jpg)
Here's the result on the fork!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ24.jpg)
Next spring, we'll see if it works!
Kind of like this? (http://fjowners.com/gallery/10/104_27_08_17_8_50_54.jpeg)
Nice FJmonkey! Did you made this bypass plate? I used a gasket instead of an o'ring. I tough it can be difficult to find oval o'ring at the right size.
I have not made it. But I did base it on an O-ring size that can be found on the shelf. The down side is the need for a CNC mill to make it.
Quote from: stou on November 12, 2019, 06:28:31 AM
I also want to make bypass plates to remove the anti-dive units.
Blank off plates for the 1100 and early 1200's are an
Off The Shelf Item. They can be purchased here in Black or bare Aluminum.
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/dadbpp-rz5b (http://www.fastfromthepast.com/dadbpp-rz5b)
Fred
Quote from: FJmonkey
I have not made it. But I did base it on an O-ring size that can be found on the shelf. The down side is the need for a CNC mill to make it.
A CNC or a milling. I have a milling and a small rotary table, so it can be made with those tools. But it is easier with 3D printing!
Quote from: aviationfredBlank off plates for the 1100 and early 1200's are an Off The Shelf Item. They can be purchased here in Black or bare Aluminum.
Yes I know they are available off the shelf. But it's more fun to make them ourselves! :smile:
I think I will modify my design to work with 2 round o'ring instead of a gasket and 3D print new one!
Many years ago I bought 2 sets of block off plates from the lead guy on the RZRD500 web site. One for my RZ and one for my FJ1100. They are aluminum, cross drilled with o rings. I no longer use the FJ forks so I can sell the blank off plates if you need them...say $50 shipped in the CONUS?
Quote from: stou on November 25, 2019, 08:12:55 AM
I think I will modify my design to work with 2 round o'ring instead of a gasket and 3D print new one!
I don't know what type of pressure is involved with the fork oil, so I suspect it's a good idea going to a O ring design instead of a paper gasket....just a hunch.
Question: If you need to slot the block off plate, how are you going to get a seal with 2 round o rings?
One large O ring like Monkey shows on his plate is the way to go.
Pat, he would need to cross drill to connect the two ports and then plug the cross drill to seal it up. One of the existing after market plates are made the same way using 2 O-rings.
Yes, I remember seeing that, kinda complicated, but your way work wouldn't it?
I wonder if 2 small O rings are stronger in resisting the oil pressure vs the slot and 1 larger O ring.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 25, 2019, 12:07:21 PM
Yes, I remember seeing that, kinda complicated, but your way work wouldn't it?
I wonder if 2 small O rings are stronger in resisting the oil pressure vs the slot and 1 larger O ring.
Yes, it will work, it is only keeping the fork oil from leaking out while it passes through the groove. Not much pressure to hold back. But the smaller O-ring will have less fluid pushing on it. Think pressure per square Inch. A larger piston will push with greater force than a smaller one, it just won't move as far. In the case of a seal, no movement is the goal.
Gotcha, thanks Mark!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 25, 2019, 11:10:49 AM
I don't know what type of pressure is involved with the fork oil, so I suspect it's a good idea going to a O ring design instead of a paper gasket....just a hunch.
Question: If you need to slot the block off plate, how are you going to get a seal with 2 round o rings?
One large O ring like Monkey shows on his plate is the way to go.
That's the beauty of 3D printing. I can design the 2 round holes with the o'ring grooves and a channel in the part to connect the 2 holes. No need to do a cross drill hole, it will be print. I'll do the design later this week and I'll show you.
Cool, I look forward to it!
Cheers
Pat
Just out of curiosity what do the ports do? You couldn't dead head them?
I had some spare time and did the changes to my design. Here's what it look like.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ26.jpg)
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on November 25, 2019, 04:32:18 PM
Just out of curiosity what do the ports do? You couldn't dead head them?
This allows the oil to flow and do is work. If the holes are block, it's like the anti-dive is always on and the fork become very hard.
Don't need no stinking cross drilling.....very cool. I bet RPM could sell some of those...
Cool. The only thing I'd recommend is a proper o ring groove. :good2:
I did the exact same groove like the one on the anti-dive part. It is flat but not deep, so the o'ring is very compressed when the part is bolt on. It should work fine.
[quote/]
This allows the oil to flow and do is work. If the holes are block, it's like the anti-dive is always on and the fork become very hard.
[/quote]
Thanks. I figured it would have been like non anti dive forks if it was dead headed. But makes sense if the ports are there then they'd still be needed... I don't think my anti dives work or atleast not noticeably
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on November 26, 2019, 12:28:47 PM
I don't think my anti dives work or at least not noticeably
It is safe to say, you are not alone....
Here's the printed part. It's a little bit hard to see the chanel on the photo but there is a 6mm hole between the 2 o'ring holes.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ27.jpg)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 26, 2019, 01:05:19 PM
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on November 26, 2019, 12:28:47 PM
I don't think my anti dives work or at least not noticeably
It is safe to say, you are not alone....
I remember my old 86 not working correctly either lol. How effective were they back in the day?
I bought my bike new and I don't recall my anti dives ever working effectively. I tried all the settings and different weight fork oils. The oem fork springs were just flat out too soft for a 550lb bike and a 200lb rider.
Progressive springs were all we had for damper rod fork upgrades in the mid eighties... until Race Tech introduced their Cartridge Emulators used with heavier straight rate springs in the late eighties.
Here's some updates.
I received my caliper rebuild kit, so I rebuild all 3 calipers. They was really stucked and it was very difficult to remove the calipers pistons. But I made it!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ28.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ29.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ30.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ31.jpg)
Next, cleaning and painting the engine!
Then I started to work on the second engine to have an idea of his condition. I putted a few drop of oil in each cylinders to be sure there was a bit of lubricant in the cylinders. I turned the crank many times manualy and took the compression. I was surprised because I tought this engine was in worst shape than the other one but it look in very good shape. Cold I read around 150psi on all cylinder except one at 135. So I will use this engine. It will need a good clean up and paint but I think it will be fine!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ32.jpg)
I ckecked the valves and they was all in the specs except one intake on the #4. It was really tight. It had a 280 shim. I looked in the other engine parts and found a 275 shim, exactly what I needed! So I made a small tool to keep the bucket down and replaced the shim. I tought a good piece of 6061 aluminium was strong enough for the tool but when I turned the cam, the tool started to fold and lift on one side. The valve spring are stronger than I tought. So I just put a piece of steel over it and it worked.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ33.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ34.jpg)
I forgot to post this one. Since I cutted the subframe, I lost the bracket for the rear oil brake reservoir. So I designed one in Fusion 360 and printed it with my 3D printer.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ35.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ36.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ37.jpg)
Was the cylinder that read 135 psi the same cylinder that had the tight intake valve?
Yes it was the same cylinder. Maybe related, the valve didn't open completely. But in the end, the compression must not be affected. It can take longer to get to the max psi since less air enter in the chamber, but if it is lower, the rings must be a little bit more worn... I think, I'm I right?
I bought one a while back that wasn't running .I checked the compression cold then adjusted the valves with several being tight .Then I rechecked the compression cold and the lowest cylinder came up 13 psi.If the valve is tight it will be open longer and deeper than normal.
The moral of the story:
Adjust your valves before you do a compression test.
If compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder, if the numbers come up, it's the rings leaking.
If the numbers stay the same it's the valves leaking.
If you do a leak down you can hear which valves leak.....although it really does not matter at that point, the head's got to come off whether it's a leaky intake valve or (more common) a burned exhaust valve.
Pat Conlon, I just saw the thread about the fuel petcock on your signature. That's a very good thing to know!
Thanks for the link!
Wednesday, I painted the engine and yesterday I installed it in the frame.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ41.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ38.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ39.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ40.jpg)
Coming along nicely :good:
Thanks!
But you need to polish the head/barrel outer fin edges :nyam1:, otherwise it'll just look like the engines has a quick "flash over" with paint :sarcastic:
Sorry but I prefer the "all black" look :good2: :smile:
Don't the kids call that, the Murdered Out look? Something like that....
I never heard that one! :unknown:
I'm curious... how did you prep the engine before you painted it?
Bill
It's a very tedious job. I started by blocking every holes. After, I used degreaser and presure wash. Then I used a small air grinder with many size of wire brushes, 3M red scotch brite and some sanding paper. Before painting, I cleaned it with air and then a final wash cleaner that I always use before painting. For the paint, I used an industrial paint that is used for tractors, agricultural machinery, military, etc... This paint is very glossy. So I used matting agent to get a semi gloss finish. It took a hole day to clean and paint it.
Here's a small update. I cleaned and repair thewiring harness, I modified and installed the rear inner fender and battery box. I also installed tht clutch and brake lever. But I have a problem with the brake master cylinder. It work but there's a small leak where is the small lense where we see the level. I have 2 front master cylinder and both are leaking at the same place.
(http://www.stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ42.jpg)
Any idea if it can be repair? Or a good and not too expensive replacement ?
(http://www.stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ43.jpg)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14893.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14893.0)
The link no longer work :-(
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2006.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2006.0)
Ooops, sorry about that. I see New River Cycle Salvage is still in business, why not give them a call?
Ok, I found them on ebay, Thanks!
Let us know how they fit....I will update our Files
How do you remember this stuff Pat?
Joe
Years ago, I built the File....
Last week I worked on the carburetors and the heat shield. The carbs was really dirty and the heat shield was really bad. I managed to rebuild the carbs using parts from both sets and rebuild the heat shield with heat protector sheet and heavy duty aluminium foil.
There was waps nest in the top of the carbs
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ47.jpg)
Lot of dirt
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ48.jpg)
The pilot jets was all blocked. One of them jet was stripped and I had to used screw extractor to remove it.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ49.jpg)
Heat shield rebuild
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ50.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ46.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ45.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ44.jpg)
nice , very nice
https://rocket-garage.blogspot.com/2015/04/fj-1200-itx.html?m=1
Very impressive job of straightening out that heat shield.
Joe
Thanks guys!
mtc, is that FJ on the link you posted is your's? It is very nice!
Quote from: stou on January 13, 2020, 06:14:06 AM
Thanks guys!
mtc, is that FJ on the link you posted is your's? It is very nice!
no not at all, i ought to start customizing mine a little ( 1985 bone stock with some upgrades), i am too worried about the resale value that does not exists
and besides, my skills fabrication, mechanical, and shop is just too basic, a man's got to know his limitations, and that would be me.
looks great with no side covers huh?
i saw it online, never seen anything like it, it is very unique, and you are making it happen all over again, even better because it's the velocity channel
Today I started the FJ. It run but need some tuning. The carburetors are leaking, I will probably need new carburetors rebuild kit or at least the float neddle kit. They was really bad.
I have a question about vaccum connections. When I look at the part diagram, there's plugs on intake of #1, 3 and 4 and the #2 is connected to the ignition box.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/Vaccum.JPG)
But on the intake #1 of the bike, there was a tube from intake to the fuel tank petcock. Is it ok for a test with an auxiliary tank to put a plug on this intake vaccum connector?
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/wIMG_0404.JPG)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/wIMG_1425.JPG)
Quote from: stou on January 15, 2020, 11:17:16 AM
But on the intake #1 of the bike, there was a tube from intake to the fuel tank petcock. Is it ok for a test with an auxiliary tank to put a plug on this intake vaccum connector?
Yes, plug the #1 vacuum port when using an auxiliary tank. Never leave a vacuum port open....never.
With the #1 vacuum line disconnected at the manifold and still connected to the petcock, do a suck test on this vacuum line to be sure that the petcock diaphragm does not leak. If you draw air thru this vacuum line when it's connected to the petcock, replace or rebuild the petcock.
Do the same suck test on the #2 vacuum line to your ignition box, disconnect the line from the manifold port and then suck on the line. You should NOT be able to draw air thru this line. If you do, that means that the vacuum diaphragm in the ignition box is knackered and leaking air. This vacuum leak condition is bad for your fuel/air mixture in your #2 cylinder.
Plug this vacuum line off at the manifold permanently.
Don't worry about any performance changes by plugging this ignition box vacuum line. The ignition vacuum advance is for emission requirements not performance.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0)
Cheers
Pat
Thanks for the explanation Pat! I checked the #2 line to the ignition box and it look good. I can't suck air from the box. For the one to the petcock, I'll check later. I need to clean it before. :bad:
Before ordering carb kits, I'll check all the float needles to see if the are leaking and also the float level. Those carb kit are not cheap and I want to be sure I really need it before buying them. It's a pain in the ass to work on the carburetors on this bike. With the airbox, you need to remove the subframe in order to remove the box and then the carburetors :wacko1:
I need some parts from RPM and before ordering them, I try to look at everything I need to make the bike running good. Question of saving on shipping fee!
Hands down the best $24 you will ever spend on your FJ.... :good:
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit)
This kit has the float needle seat O rings that are very commonly the source of leaks.
Also consider getting some new #40 pilot jets, 117.5 mains and (4) shims for your needles, then (2) UniPods, filter spray, and a filter for your crankcase breather hose.
Never again will you have to dick around with that oem air box.
You can thank me later....(and you will)
Cheers
That is really interesting! That air box is so anoying!
I'll wrote that on my parts list!
I forgot to give a feedback about the sight glass. Finally I bought those on amazon, they was really cheap and was looking better than the one of New River Cycle Salvage
https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/gp/product/B01GR5HWPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/gp/product/B01GR5HWPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
It doesn't work like the original sight glass. The one on the FJ have a groove for the o'ring and are only installed press fit. It doesn't work with the on I bought. But I used the procedure from this video bellow and used oil resistant black gasket maker silicone. I poured oil in the master and still looking good after 3 days. There's no trace of oil around the glass.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1428.JPG)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1427.JPG)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_yo3FnH6DM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_yo3FnH6DM)
Thanks for the update on the sight glass replacement.....when you said you filled your master up with oil, I assume you meant DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
Yes, Dot 3 brake fluid!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 15, 2020, 12:39:58 PM
Also consider getting some new #40 pilot jets, 117.5 mains and (4) shims for your needles, then (2) UniPods, filter spray, and a filter for your crankcase breather hose.
Pat, I looked in both carburetors set I have and both have #40 pilot jets. For the main jets, one set have #110 main jets and the other one #124. Is it worth trying the #124 with pods or for sure it will be way too rich?
Mikuni jets are numbered in increments of 2.5 (110, 112.5, 115, etc) so perhaps your 124. mains are not Mikuni....or you mean you have #125 main jets, not 124.
IMHO Mikuni #125 main jets are too rich for your application.
If you have Dynojet main jets, those sizes are propriety and not comparable to Mikuni size numbers, and they are sized to match the special Dynojet needle and should be used together (Dynojet mains and needles) unless you wanted to convert both the needles and mains over to Mikuni.
IOW don't mix Dynojet goodies with Mikuni goodies.
I don't know what they are but they really are #124, so probably not Mikuni jets. I will take no chance and order some #117.5 like you suggested. Thanks!
Post a picture of your needle....let's be sure you have the Mikuni needles before you order Mikuni main jets.
The Dynojet needles are skinny and the Mikuni needles are thicker with a stepped taper.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 17, 2020, 08:53:08 PM
Post a picture of your needle....let's be sure you have the Mikuni needles before you order Mikuni main jets.
The Dynojet needles are skinny and the Mikuni needles are thicker with a stepped taper.
This is IMPORTANT! Any main jet recommendation has to go with the corresponding needle! At WOT the needle does make a difference to the main jet flow - no matter anything else you may see in carb jetting tutorials.
The needle look good, here's a picture
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1430.JPG)
Snap a photo of the emulsion tube. If it is non shrouded you need the shrouded 1200 version as those slides are late late 85 1100s or 1200 slides. The main jet needle needs to be measured from tip to tip as well as the 1100 needles were shorter and the slide had a flat bottom.
Here's a photo of both carb parts. The one I use is the one on the right, it has #110 main jet. The one on the left has the #124 main jet.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1433.JPG)
The parts on the left are early FJ1100. The parts on the right are late 1100 & FJ1200.
That looks like a curve bottom slide needle on the flat bottom slide as well. You will need to slide the plastic piece off the needles and see if there is a number stamped at the top.
Either way, you are most likely going to have to update to the later parts to make them the same since the flat bottom slide are obsolete and harder to find than rocking horse dung.
Time to break them all down and see what you have. Take photos of the springs and measure the big hole in the bottom of the slide to see if they have been drilled out too.
Maybe my explanation was not clear. I have 2 sets of carburetors (2x4). The set on the right are the one that I installed on the bike. The other set came from another bike I have for parts. I don't plan to use the carburetors with the flat bottom. I was just looking for the jets to see if I need to buy 4 new 117.5 to go with the pods filters, like Pat suggested.
Oh. Since the curved bottom slide carbs have aftermarket jets, you still need to check the needle for number to see if Mikuni of aftermarket.
The number on the needle is: 5FZ74. On the needle of the flat bottom slide, there's nothing, no number.
Why did you wrote that the curve bottom slide carb have aftermarket jet? Because they have #110 jets or because of the size? The flat bottom one that has #124 jets.
Left: #124 from flat bottom slide. Right: #110 from curve bottom slide.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1431.JPG)
sorry, this two different sets is throwing me off. :flag_of_truce:
The needle with no marking in the flat bottom with the 124 appears to be a 1200 aftermarket kit someone stuck in a set of 1100 carbs.
The other needle marked 5FZ74 is a Yamaha/Mikuni needle and the main jet at 110 is stock.
Good, so I used the good carburetors. I'll make a list of parts I need and I'll probably made my RPM order this week. Thanks Robert!
Quote from: RPM - Robert on January 18, 2020, 06:45:29 PM
The parts on the left are early FJ1100. The parts on the right are late 1100 & FJ1200.
That looks like a curve bottom slide needle on the flat bottom slide as well. You will need to slide the plastic piece off the needles and see if there is a number stamped at the top.
Either way, you are most likely going to have to update to the later parts to make them the same since the flat bottom slide are obsolete and harder to find than rocking horse dung.
Time to break them all down and see what you have. Take photos of the springs and measure the big hole in the bottom of the slide to see if they have been drilled out too.
Robert what is the Point of drilling the hole in the slide? Thanks
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on January 20, 2020, 06:04:26 AM
Quote from: RPM - Robert on January 18, 2020, 06:45:29 PM
The parts on the left are early FJ1100. The parts on the right are late 1100 & FJ1200.
That looks like a curve bottom slide needle on the flat bottom slide as well. You will need to slide the plastic piece off the needles and see if there is a number stamped at the top.
Either way, you are most likely going to have to update to the later parts to make them the same since the flat bottom slide are obsolete and harder to find than rocking horse dung.
Time to break them all down and see what you have. Take photos of the springs and measure the big hole in the bottom of the slide to see if they have been drilled out too.
Robert what is the Point of drilling the hole in the slide? Thanks
Some jet kits will have you drill out the hole to change the rate at which the slides react to the vacuum signal above the diaphragm. Similar to the different slide springs some jet kits will come with.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 15, 2020, 12:39:58 PM
Also consider getting some new #40 pilot jets, 117.5 mains and (4) shims for your needles, .....
I think Senile Padre meant to recommend the #42.5 pilot/idle jet size.
Also, unless you have a performance exhaust or other engine mods, I wouldn't go bigger than #115 main jet
And I would second the recommendation on the RPM carb bolt kit. Whoever thought that up was a Freakin Genius
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 20, 2020, 06:39:09 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 15, 2020, 12:39:58 PM
Also consider getting some new #40 pilot jets, 117.5 mains and (4) shims for your needles, .....
I think Senile Padre meant to recommend the #42.5 pilot/idle jet size.
Also, unless you have a performance exhaust or other engine mods, I wouldn't go bigger than #115 main jet
And I would second the recommendation on the RPM carb bolt kit. Whoever thought that up was a Freakin Genius
Yes he was! Thanks :drinks:
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 20, 2020, 06:39:09 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 15, 2020, 12:39:58 PM
Also consider getting some new #40 pilot jets, 117.5 mains and (4) shims for your needles, .....
I think Senile Padre meant to recommend the #42.5 pilot/idle jet size.
Also, unless you have a performance exhaust or other engine mods, I wouldn't go bigger than #115 main jet
And I would second the recommendation on the RPM carb bolt kit. Whoever thought that up was a Freakin Genius
Ok, so with Uni pod filters with stock exhaust and engine, it is #42.5 pilot jet, not #40 and #115 main, not #117.5. Thanks!
On another thread http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18936.msg192062#msg192062 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18936.msg192062#msg192062), I found the "Carburetor jet size calculator" https://raggedmoto.com/carburetor-jet-size-calculator/ (https://raggedmoto.com/carburetor-jet-size-calculator/)
With stock #110 main and #40 pilot, it give me #112.5 main and #41 pilot with pod filters and stock exhaust. On RPM website, there's only #40 and #42.5 pilot jets available. I think I will order the #112.5 and #42.5 but I will start to run the bike with #112.5 and #40 first and see what it look. If it's too lean I'll install the #42.5.
The calculator give #115 and #42 for pod filters and aftermarket silencers
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 20, 2020, 06:39:09 PM
...And I would second the recommendation on the RPM carb bolt kit. Whoever thought that up was a Freakin Genius
I bow to the original FJ Forum Carb Guru..... :hi:
David Raforth has forgotten more about FJ carbs than I currently know....(check out the Carb Files)
(Although #40 pilots worked fine for me)
Stou, our CV carbs are very tolerant (by design) to air density changes (affecting air velocity) from temperature, humidity and/or elevation differences....as compared to non CV style carbs. That's why CV carbs are a better choice for street bikes which see these different conditions.
The link you provided, the Ragged Moto carb jet calculation is fine for non CV style carbs (e.g. flat slides) where elevation and temperature is a concern, and each race track requires different jets depending on time of year.... but, again our CV carbs are more tolerant. The Ragged Moto calc confirmed #40 and 117.5 mains for me using the default settings (sea level, 70*F)
My point....get your jetting close and the vacuum from air velocity thru your CV carbs will raise or lower the slide and needle where it should be... with normal street riding your needle height is 80% of your tuning.
Quote from: fj1289 on January 20, 2020, 01:05:57 PM
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on January 20, 2020, 06:04:26 AM
Robert what is the Point of drilling the hole in the slide? Thanks
Some jet kits will have you drill out the hole to change the rate at which the slides react to the vacuum signal above the diaphragm. Similar to the different slide springs some jet kits will come with.
^^^ Yeppers :good2:
Here's how I remember it....(longer version)
Back in the '80's the beef with Mikuni CV carbs is that they are slow to react to throttle input. You twist open the throttle, the throttle plate opens and it takes a fraction of a second for the air velocity to increase the vacuum and get the slide and needle raised. If you ever have a chance to ride a bike with flat slide or roller slide carburetors you *will* notice more immediate snap at the throttle.
The tuners said to themselves, "Hmmm, how can we make these CV street carbs snap open faster like the flat slide racing carbs?"
Enter DynoJet...they said, "We know how to get those CV carb slides to open quicker. We will use softer slide springs."
And they did.....
However, with the new soft DynoJet slide springs, now the slides were opening fast...so fast that the momentum of the slides were now causing them to raise up too far in the barrel, causing a mid range bog from the excess fuel.
So.....drilling out the vacuum port on the slides became needed to slow down the slides and get rid of the bog
Unfortunately, once you drill out the slides you can't un drill them, although I have heard of folks epoxying close the holes and re drilling the correct diameter vacuum holes. Looking at today's installation instructions for the FJ1200 stage 3 DynoJet kit, I notice that there is no longer any mention about drilling out the carb slides.
https://www.dynojet.com/amfile/file/download/file/8797674a71107a5810137671621d3b32/product/3724/ (https://www.dynojet.com/amfile/file/download/file/8797674a71107a5810137671621d3b32/product/3724/)
I guess they learned their lesson.
Cheers
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 21, 2020, 10:34:29 AM
The Ragged Moto calc confirmed #40 and 117.5 mains for me using the default settings (sea level, 70*F)
My point....get your jetting close and the vacuum from air velocity thru your CV carbs will raise or lower the slide and needle where it should be... with normal street riding your needle height is 80% of your tuning.
My '84 FJ (canadian) was completely stock and has #110 and #40 jets. On the Ragged calculator with pods, stock exhaust and default sea level and temp, it give me #112.5 and #41.
If I enter default '84 US FJ jetting from the Haynes book, #112.5 and #37.5 in the calculator, with pods, stock exhaust and default sea level and temp, it give me #115 and #38 or #117.5 and #39 with aftermarket silencer.
It look like there's a difference between US and canadian model, probably because of colder weather. Pat did you had #112.5 and #37.5 when stock?
What does the calculator recommend for the needle position setting?
For intake mods (like removing the airbox or low restriction filter), the needle position is far more important than the jets. The idle jet has influence until about 1/8 - 1/4 throttle and the main jet only controls fuel delivery at WOT. The needle position is the dominant fuel delivery circuit for throttle positions between ~1/4 and WOT.
IOW, where we spend about 99.99% of our time riding.
There's nothing about the needle position in the calculator. And you are right, the needle position is also very important.
Quote from: stou on January 21, 2020, 12:28:01 PM
. Pat did you had #112.5 and #37.5 when stock?
It's been a long time....I remember my pilots being 37.5 for sure....my mains I thought were 110....but looking at the 1984 LC stock jetting combo, I see they must have been a 112.5.
Imputing that combo (37.5/112.5) as the stock jetting on the Ragged Moto calc, I get a 120 main jets and #40 pilots.(Default: below 2k', 70*F)
117.5 and #40 pilots worked fine for me when my engine was stock. (w/shimmed needles)
Listen to David....the needle position is most important....at the very least, shim your stock needles or if you have the funds ($$$ ouch) invest in some fully adjustable (multi step) Mikuni needles.
Does anyone know the high incriminates of the adjustable needles? That way shimming non adjustables gives us a measurement for shims. Thanks
Last I checked the RPM needle shims are equal to 1/2 step increment. Great for fine tuning.
Stand by, Robert will chime in shortly....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 22, 2020, 09:11:31 AM
Last I checked the RPM needle shims are equal to 1/2 step increment. Great for fine tuning.
Stand by, Robert will chime in shortly....
Correct, one shim that we sell equals half a notch of adjustment on the Mikuni adjustable needles. I can not answer for other shims that I have seem people use or where they even came from but some are about 3 notches on the needle, others are a complete notch so kind of a guessing game with those.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on January 22, 2020, 10:03:53 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 22, 2020, 09:11:31 AM
Last I checked the RPM needle shims are equal to 1/2 step increment. Great for fine tuning.
Stand by, Robert will chime in shortly....
Correct, one shim that we sell equals half a notch of adjustment on the Mikuni adjustable needles. I can not answer for other shims that I have seem people use or where they even came from but some are about 3 notches on the needle, others are a complete notch so kind of a guessing game with those.
Thank you. I will be ordering a bunch of carb stuff before the snow melts so I can be already for the sunny warm days.
I received my RPM parts yesterday. I rebuilded the front brake master cylinder, everything was good. Today I took apart the clutch master and I had a very bad surprise. The parts are differents. :negative:
New kit on the left and bike parts on the right.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/IMG_1475.JPG)
I looked a few place on the net and it's obvious that the clutch master that was on the bike was not from '84 FJ1100. So now I must find another clutch master because the other bike I have, don't have a clutch master :nea:
So now I have a brand new FJ1100 clutch rebuild kit for sale ($40)
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A1100CLTCHMCKIT (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A1100CLTCHMCKIT)
:Facepalm:
If you uploaded a picture of the clutch master housing someone might be able to identify it. Maybe its an FJR master or an FJ1200, there should also be some type of part number on the master so that might help you identify it and see what you have.
From what I saw on RPM website, it's not an FJ1100 or FJ1200 master. It doesn't have any brand name on it. Anyway, I ordered this kit from Amazon. The buyers comments are good and they look a lot like the one on the bike. And they are only $45 for the pair.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/ClutchMaster.JPG)
What are the m/c piston sizes?
FYI...The oem FJ is 5/8"dia. (16mm)
If you ever decide to double up on your clutch spring, you will appreciate a 15mm piston on your clutch m/c.
If you ever decide to upgrade to the Yamaha blue/silver/gold dot monoblock brake calipers, you will appreciate a front brake m/c with a 14mm dia. piston.
I don't know the piston size, it is not indicated in the product info. My goal for now is to have a good running FJ and then I'll see if I keep the bike or not. I don't want to put to much money on it for now. If I really like the bike, then I'll probably update some parts. In the last years, I putted to much money on my '77 CB750. Complete engine rebuild with 836cc kit, USD GSX fork, new Progressive shocks and more. With the FJ, I try to get a nice running bike whitout putting to much money on it. I also have a 2016 Honda CRF1000 Africa Twin, which is my daily bike.
A small update! Like many of you saw it in the "Float" thread http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17021.45 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17021.45) I had some problem with carbs leaking. But now that is fixed, I can go back to other work.
Carbs, 112.5 main jets and new Uni air filter are installed. I lubricate the throttle cable and installed a new choke cable. I installed the new clutch master and lever. It seem to work fine.
I started the bike and it run not too bad considering carbs are not synchronised and it's cold outside. The gauges are working correctly.
Next step after my 2 weeks vacation, body repair and paint.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ54.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ55.jpg)
Sometime you find really weird things when restoring an old motorcycle. I replaced the clutch master cylinder for a no name model. It look similar to the Nissin on my Honda CRF1000. Probably a chinesse copy of the Nissin that is sold $135 US for the front brake only! But the weird thing is when I bleeded the clutch, the oil was leaking all around the bleed screw and not by the hole in it. I tought the hole was blocked. But look what I found!!!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ56.jpg)
An moron welded the hole in the bleed screw!!! Fortunately, I had another bleed screw in a lot better condition!
:Facepalm:
Back from vacation, now it's time to attack body repair and paint!
I did some plastic welding
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ58.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ57.jpg)
Sanding and finishing
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ59.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ60.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ61.jpg)
Primer done!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ62.jpg)
After thinking again about colors, I think I will go for a metalic red and not yellow :shok:
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/WSketch1ai.jpg)
Quote from: stou on February 25, 2020, 01:57:23 PM(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/WSketch1ai.jpg)
Awesome! That will look fantastic.
Bill
Thanks Bill!
I'll try to find a metallic red that look in this style:
(https://ucarecdn.com/2d9e0581-fe9c-48de-a72e-bab85be6a8e3/-/format/auto/-/preview/3000x3000/-/quality/lighter/)
This one is from House of Kolor, but can be hard and expensive to get here. So I will go to my paint store and see what my
paint guy can mix to get something in that style.
Looks good! Think about going black on the belly pan (or even no belly pan with the short tail). If you really want a decal down there maybe go with a Yamaha tuning fork.
Can't wait to see it all done. Looks great
enthusiasm, in the fj hobby
Quote from: fj1289 on February 25, 2020, 07:14:00 PM
Looks good! Think about going black on the belly pan (or even no belly pan with the short tail). If you really want a decal down there maybe go with a Yamaha tuning fork.
There's a big chance that I will go with no belly pan. I have 2 but they are in very bad shape. One is broken all over and on the other one, there's some big parts missing.
Friday I went to buy the paint at my Cmax store. I choose a nice metallic red. Like every time I bought paint, I'm always surprise with the price. One quart of red metallic with pearl ... $239 :shout: I painted a part Saturday and I was really disappointed of the color. It look more orange than red. So I need to go to the store this morning. I dont know if the guy at the store made a mistake or if the paint formula is wrong, but there's no way I'll paint the bike with that color.
Just one thought on the paint scheme - on the tail section, wouldn't the black/white not look better starting from the front lower corner and heading up as it goes to the rear - that's more in keeping with both the original style and the lines of the rest of your design.
Just remember to add some stripes on the front fender
Quote from: Millietant on March 02, 2020, 07:09:05 AM
Just one thought on the paint scheme - on the tail section, wouldn't the black/white not look better starting from the front lower corner and heading up as it goes to the rear - that's more in keeping with both the original style and the lines of the rest of your design.
It's not easy to do because of the shape of the bike but I want the tail stripe to look like it is the end of an imaginary stripe that flow through the seat. (sorry for my english writing, I hope it make sense)
See the black line over the seat:
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/Sketch1acxs.jpg)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 02, 2020, 05:28:49 PM
Just remember to add some stripes on the front fender
I don't think I will do stripes on the front fender, but I'll think about that.
wish my frame was black
I could see a single white stripe on the front fender dividing the red and black. The line will be similar to the white above. I could also see the fender all red to support teh arc of the colors.
the original was kinda orange it is loud... too loud
I finally got the color I wanted. I sprayed a bright solid red and then a small coat of the metallic one. The effect under the sun is really nice!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/wIMG_1759.JPG)
Under the sun, it give a nice gold/orange pearl effect
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/wIMG_1757.JPG)
Very nice. Must be great to be able to paint. I really like that 70s black Yamaha strips. That to me screams Yamaha.
In my opinion, it is hard to tell one Japanese bike from another now days. They are mostly pointy and plastic.
Thanks Paul. This is not the final finish. I need to sand it with water 1000 grit paper and spray some final coats of clear. This will remove the edge between the red and the black and white stripes.
Wow, that red really explodes in the sun!
Joe
Quote from: stou on March 04, 2020, 06:02:53 AM
I finally got the color I wanted. I sprayed a bright solid red and then a small coat of the metallic one. The effect under the sun is really nice!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/wIMG_1759.JPG)
Under the sun, it give a nice gold/orange pearl effect
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/wIMG_1757.JPG)
is the stripe hand painted or decal?
mtc, it is painted. I'll probably put a mat black Yamaha tuning forks logo on the tank. I have a sticker cutter ;-)
Quote from: stou on March 05, 2020, 02:02:47 PM
mtc, it is painted. I'll probably put a mat black Yamaha tuning forks logo on the tank. I have a sticker cutter ;-)
Now that I like. ^^^^^^^
<<<<<<<<<
Joe
Thought of your project when I saw this picture -
I still work on the paint. Here's the tail light I made. I designed it in 3D in Fusion 360, printed it on my 3D printer and painted it. I installed a LED tail and blinker light.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ65.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ64.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ63.jpg)
Quote from: stou on March 10, 2020, 10:08:41 AM
I still work on the paint. Here's the tail light I made. I designed it in 3D in Fusion 360, printed it on my 3D printer and painted it. I installed a LED tail and blinker light.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ65.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ64.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ63.jpg)
Since there's no emoji for drooling this will have to do. :yes:
"nice work" is an understatement!
Thanks guys for your comments!
Yes that is awesome. I wish I could paint. It's going to be one of the best. You could sell those tail lights.
Wow.
That triangular tail graphic looks way better than the original design images. I like the whole look.
The race FJ also looks totally awesome.......great paint scheme too.
Thanks!
Quote from: giantkiller on March 11, 2020, 06:23:22 AM
Yes that is awesome. I wish I could paint. It's going to be one of the best. You could sell those tail lights.
Wow.
Giantkiller, I tought about selling the tail light but it took something like 8 or 10 hours to print it with a high res fill pattern. Maybe for only few unit it can be ok but 3D printing is not really good for serial production. Anyway, I don't think it can really have demand for it.
Quote from: Millietant on March 11, 2020, 01:50:43 PM
That triangular tail graphic looks way better than the original design images. I like the whole look.
The race FJ also looks totally awesome.......great paint scheme too.
The original design was only to get an idea of the rendering. When it comme to the real parts, it's always a bit different with all shapes of the bodywork.
Absolutely beautiful. I'm jealous lol
Work is progressing well. Here's a small to do list:
Carb sync
Turn signal
Light for licence plate
Seat
Chain guard
Gas tank final install
Secure correctly some wires
Windscreen
Mirrors
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ66.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ67.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ68.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ69.jpg)
I'm not sure about the tuning forks logo on the tail section.
Now that is saucy
One of the nicest color schemes I've ever seen on any bike.
Gosh, I'm going to have a lay down and rest after such excitement
Quote from: andyoutandabout on March 19, 2020, 02:06:42 PM
Now that is saucy
One of the nicest color schemes I've ever seen on any bike.
Gosh, I'm going to have a lay down and rest after such excitement
lol :lol:, thanks!
I know I'm demanding. Or at least that's what my girlfriend tell's my wife.
But give us a shot of the whole bike. Looks fn awesome. :good:
Quote from: stou on March 19, 2020, 06:00:47 AM
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ68.jpg)
I'm not sure about the tuning forks logo on the tail section.
It's at odds with the simplicity and boldness of that beautiful " stripe". I love the way the stripe unmistakably says "Yamaha" without having to write the word.
That really is an inspired paint scheme, nice colour too and great detailing around the cockpit, yoke, bars, switch gear etc.
Before the wrath of the fourum descends on me, you did invite opinions and I did say is was entirely personal.
Noel
Quote from: giantkiller on March 19, 2020, 07:06:02 PM
I know I'm demanding. Or at least that's what my girlfriend tell's my wife.
But give us a shot of the whole bike. Looks fn awesome. :good:
I will as soon as I can get it out of the garage. I have 6 motorcycles in my garage and it's too tight to take a picture of the whole bike!
Quote from: ribbert on March 19, 2020, 08:45:27 PM
It's at odds with the simplicity and boldness of that beautiful " stripe". I love the way the stripe unmistakably says "Yamaha" without having to write the word.
That really is an inspired paint scheme, nice colour too and great detailing around the cockpit, yoke, bars, switch gear etc.
Before the wrath of the fourum descends on me, you did invite opinions and I did say is was entirely personal.
Thanks for your comment Noel!
Nice work mate.
Troyskie
I know how that is here's a couple of pictures of my garage. Before I started on building the shop/house.
That's 22'x44'
Hey Stou,
The small change you made to the tail section graphic between sketch and actual (from 4 sided to 3 sided) has made a disproportionate difference in its look - and I love it.......it actually takes away all of my earlier concerns. Great move :good2:
Thanks guys!
Today is a mild day here, around 10°C. So I took the bike out to sync the carb. They was a little bit off. So I sync them. But there's a problem. As you can see in this video below, the idle is very nice and if I turn the throttle slowly, everything is good. But if I give some fast throttle or close and open fast, there's some missing.
The setup is:
Pod filters
42.5 pilot jet
112.5 main
Spark plugs are NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9
Auxiliary gas tank
I looked at the spark plugs after the carb sync, they where very dark (rich). But I'm not sure it can be a good indication since the bike was only running on idle with some throttle for short time.
Any idea?
Video:
https://vimeo.com/399241415 (https://vimeo.com/399241415)
Was the motor fully up to temperature when doing this?
Hummm maybe not. You raise a good point! By the time I'll finish the work on the bike, the weather will probably be ok to ride. So I'll really see it when I'll be able to do some tests rides.
I took some photos when I synchronised the carb!
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ72.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ71.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ70.jpg)
That is beautiful!!! I LIKE IT!!!! You've got talent.
Did you retain the stock seat mounts and pan. I found you can cut a section of the seat pan out. And the two sections that look like a band going across. Will lay over each other. Quite well. I plastic welded them together.(rather ugly but strong) on top and bottom. For the turbo bike.
Quote from: giantkiller on March 20, 2020, 07:58:11 PM
Did you retain the stock seat mounts and pan. I found you can cut a section of the seat pan out. And the two sections that look like a band going across. Will lay over each other. Quite well. I plastic welded them together.(rather ugly but strong) on top and bottom. For the turbo bike.
Yes, this is exactly what I done. Just need to do the seat cover.
Thanks giantkiller!
VFN!
:biggrin: Thanks!
Here's what I did for the seat.
Cut 8" from the middle of the seat and plastic welded the 2 parts.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ74.jpg)
Re-cover with 1/4 foam
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ73.jpg)
Re-cover with vinyl
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ75.jpg)
Cost: around $20
You are good at everything. Looks great.
I wanted to get as low as possible. And be held in place on the turbo bike. It's not going to be for corners much. I would hate to grab a handful of throttle coming out of a corner. And have the boost come up.
Yours looks perfect for moving around on.
You have it all figured out :good:
Thanks for sharing with us
Quote from: stou on March 21, 2020, 01:32:04 PM
Here's what I did for the seat.
Cut 8" from the middle of the seat and plastic welded the 2 parts.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ74.jpg)
Re-cover with 1/4 foam
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ73.jpg)
Re-cover with vinyl
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ75.jpg)
Cost: around $20
wow lots of work and beautiful!
This build has really gone places.
Thanks for all your comments guys.
There's many small things to do and then, wait for the snow to melt. But with the actual situation with the Covid-19, I don't think I will be able to go to the inspection to get the licence plate before a while. Lots of business are closed right now. :negative: :unknown:
I found nice flashers in my old stock. It come from a Suzuki DRZ400. I 3D printed some smalls adaptors because the flashers bolts are very small for the holes in the flashers supports. I think it work fine with the look of the bike.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ77.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ78.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ79.jpg)
Today I did the first small test ride just in our street (small). Since I don't have licence plate, I don't want to take chance to get caught.
The bike is idling very well. When I accelarate very slowly, it run fine. But when I accelerate a little faster, the engine have some missing. Tomorrow I will look at the spark plugs to see the color. But I didn't rode it a lot because of that missing on acceleration. Maybe the main jets are not the right size, 112.5 with pod filters and stock exhaust.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ80.jpg)
Quote from: stou on March 25, 2020, 06:56:13 PM
Today I did the first small test ride just in our street (small). Since I don't have licence plate, I don't want to take chance to get caught.
The bike is idling very well. When I accelarate very slowly, it run fine. But when I accelerate a little faster, the engine have some missing. Tomorrow I will look at the spark plugs to see the color. But I didn't rode it a lot because of that missing on acceleration. Maybe the main jets are not the right size, 112.5 with pod filters and stock exhaust.
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ80.jpg)
beautiful, i read the honda rear shock installed would raise the rear
so what is left of the donor bike? got a picture of the carcass?
Quote from: mtc on March 26, 2020, 11:40:29 AM
beautiful, i read the honda rear shock installed would raise the rear
so what is left of the donor bike? got a picture of the carcass?
I have lots of parts, but everything is in plastic cases. For example, I took the worst subframe, side covers and seat to cut and I keeped the best one in case I want to go back to stock backend. The engine is completely apart, so I have many spare parts.
cool i understand
As mentionned in another specific thread, I replaced the emulsion tubes with the old ones and the bike is running very nicely now. Now I have to wait for the Covid-19 to pass (hoping to live trough it :sorry:) so that I can have the bike inspected so I can register it and be able to ride on the road.
I finally passed the inspection and whent to the Transport office to officialy put the FJ on the road. With that Covid-19, it was not easy. At first it was closed and after that I had to take appointment at both places. For the inspection it was easy but for the Transport office, in my city, there was nothing avalaible before the end of the month. I finally found a place for the day after the inspection but in another city.
The bike is running very good, I really like it. There's only one small thing to repair. I need to replace the neutral switch o'ring and the front gear shaft oil seal, they are leaking a little bit. I already ordered the
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ81.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ82.jpg)
(http://stoudesign.com/MotoWork/FJ83.jpg)
That's a beautiful creation you have there. You do awesome work.
Thanks!