The calculator will show what size range you need, what shims can be swapped
Last 2 columns are for NEW shims, what size to order (nearest 0.05) and what your resulting clearance will be.
NumberCurrent clearanceThicknessRange RequiredOrderNEW clearance
Int #
Valve Clearance
Shim Size
Need
Order
With New Shim
10.
mm
mm2.75 - 2.75mm2.75mm.1016mmperfect!
20.
mm
mm2.75 - 2.75mm2.75mm.1016mmperfect!
30.
mm
mm2.68 - 2.68mm2.65mm-0.03mm
Very confused here, I have used a shim calculator which was suggested here but none of the results make sense.. the three lines here were copied from the results these are the first three calculations for the intakes.
If my numbers are .13mm Clarence for the top one with a 2.75mm shim why is it saying I need a 2.75 shim which is in there and why is it saying it is perfect when all the clearances are at the minimum end of spec rite across all intakes and which I was told was "terrible"
Thanks
Hey FJ folks, I'm away from home now so I don't have access to my shop manuals.
Can someone please 1) scan the 2 shim charts (intake and exhaust) and 2) import them to the FJ Gallery (for future reference) then 3) attach them to this topic to help Lez out?
For extra credit and a free breakfast at the next FJ Rally, if you could build a topic explaining the tables and how to measure and put it in the General Maintenance section of the Files, I will gladly buy you a plate of scrambled eggs...
If not, no worry, I can build the File, if you can get the tables into the Gallery.
Hold on Lez.... help's on the way....
This might help http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16002.msg161276#msg161276 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16002.msg161276#msg161276)
Thanks Mark :good2:
Lez, do you understand how to work these tables?
Well the tables I have used were sent to me via a previous post it's simple to use ..input the bike specs input your measurements and shim thicknesses hit the button and walla up comes the answers. Maybe I am not interpreting the answers correctly but as it stands the outcome is not making sense. If my measurement is .13 and shim is 2.75 I should not be getting an answer of 2.75 shim it should be less if I use another calculator I get less than 2.75 which makes sense to me.
If I need more clearance I need less shim I mean one could do this with pen and paper...The utility seems to be off or maybe I'm off.
Lez
Don't confuse the tables. (I've done it...others have too....it's a right of passage)
Use the Intake table for the Intake valves and exhaust table for Exhaust valves.
If your measurement on the intake side is .13mm, look at the intake table....see that row is blank?
That means, whatever # shim you have in there, leave it alone, that's why that row is blank.
Now look at the exhaust table.
If your measurement on the exhaust side is .13mm use that horizontal row, now the shim you took out is a 275 shim look at the top of the table for 275, use the vertical row for 275...
Now come down on that vertical row to your .13mm horizontal row and where they intersect is the number shim you need....
What number shim do you need?
OK this is what I have been using http://www.dev8.us/shimcalc/ (http://www.dev8.us/shimcalc/) I am assuming you might not be referencing this same utility. Or are you referencing the charts in the original manual or one buried in the site?
Lez
PS If the "Chart" is blank then it's say the Clarence is OK but what if you want better or more gap is it not possible to calculate for a slightly thinner shim?
If the chart already includes the half-size shims (like the one I posted) then you have all the sizes available. To get a more precise gap you will need to find/make custom shims. Considering that they tend to change and get tighter, just choose towards the looser (larger gap) and call it done.
The gap for intake valves is.11mm to .15mm .13 mm is exactly in the middle it is perfect.If it is an exhaust valve the gap is .16mm to .20mm.The middle is 18 mm.if your gap is .13 you need to make the gap .05 mm wider so you use a shim that is 2.75 mm minus .05mm equals 2.70mm so use a 270 shim.You don't need a chart it is just addition and subtraction.a half size is .025mm a full size is .05mm a 275 shim is 2.75mm.
Intake http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16002.0;attach=8334 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16002.0;attach=8334)
Exhaust http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16002.0;attach=8335 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16002.0;attach=8335)
These are the tables I was referring to...
Thank you for this... So if .13 on exhaust with a 2.65 shim and I work my way across the tables I come up with 2.60 shim minus this from 2.65 I get .05 add the .13 to this and I get .18... So did I just work out what the new clearance would be with new shim?
Lez
Quote from: FJmonkey on October 22, 2019, 10:34:27 AM
If the chart already includes the half-size shims (like the one I posted) then you have all the sizes available. To get a more precise gap you will need to find/make custom shims. Considering that they tend to change and get tighter, just choose towards the looser (larger gap) and call it done.
Thank you very much
Quote from: chiz on October 22, 2019, 03:10:12 PM
Thank you for this... So if .13 on exhaust with a 2.65 shim and I work my way across the tables I come up with 2.60 shim minus this from 2.65 I get .05 add the .13 to this and I get .18... So did I just work out what the new Clarence would be with new shim?
Lez
Correct 260 is what you need.
As Travis said above, it's simple math. 0.13mm + 0.05mm = 0.18mm perfect, or 2.65 minus .05 equals 2.60
Shim thickness vs measurements, Remember the big picture:
If your measurements are tight, you want a lower shim number than what you took out.
If your measurements are loose, you want a higher number than what you took out.
The tables just make it easier (for me) to keep track.
However....After mixing up exhaust/intake tables in the middle of a job :dash2: what I do now is to work only on one side of the head at a time...the intake side or exhaust side. That way I only keep 1 table out at a time.
When I'm done with the intake side, I put the intake table away (as in hide the bastard) then I get out the exhaust table and keep that out until I'm finished with the exhaust side.
***An important point on measuring*** (thanks to RPM Randy)
After you change your shims, do not remeasure. Your new measurements will be wrong. You WILL drive yourself crazy.
If you want to remeasure your shim clearances you need to properly seat the shims in the buckets. To do this you reinstall the cam cover and button everything up and run the engine up to operating temp, then cool down overnight. Only then do you remeasure.
All shim measurements should be done on a stone cold engine.
Cheers. Pat
Great... thanks
I am absolutely sickened by the amount of time and effort it will take to replace these shims as I have to remove and move 10 of the original ones around to different buckets and add six new ones I see this as a large pain in the arse. Thing is I don't see a real short cut I don't think there is a quick way to move three 2.65's an a couple 2.70's from the exhaust to the inlet as I would have to yank out the inlet ones first??
Anyone out there have any brilliant shortcut solutions?
Thanks Lez
The FJ shim-ver-bucket design is easy peasy. You want a real PIA? Buy a more modern shim-under-bucket design. A 2 hour job will take all day. The real answer to your question is to have a set of spare shims at the ready.....
If you don't have any extra shims, then use quarters as temporary place holders till you pull the correct size from another location. Just don't run the engine with quarters for shims. Or if you do, tell us how it went with pictures.
Use the chart to establish the baseline. From there use the quarter trick as Mark just mentioned.
It you have the proper tools and the chart, the job is very easy.
One more note, you cannot properly measure the valve clearance once the shim has been changed. The oil pools under the replacement shim and give erroneous readings. The engine must be run up to temp and then cooled back down the recheck the clearances.
Randy - RPM
Monkey got in first with the coin trick and depending on what country you live in the type of coin will vary. I recently did my shims and an Australian $1.00 coin is exactly the same size as a shim so I used a couple of them while swapping them around. the coin is soft and won't hurt the cam lobes when turning over.