Hello All!
I recently bought my first FJ, and man am I loving it! However, there is work to be done. My main concern right now is that my gauges flicker erratically (the tail light too sometimes). I'm concerned this could maybe be part of a larger electrical issue. I posted a video last night of it idling after taking her on about a 10 minute ride to get her warmed up a bit. In the video you'll see her idling alright, but the gauge back lights are flickering quickly.....until they don't. Then they'll be consistent like they should be....until I give her some throttle. Then they'll begin to flicker again and the idling speed will drop some and she almost sounds like shes going to stall.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDsCedAP8PE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDsCedAP8PE)
It doesn't stop there though. In this next video I took of her idling, you'll again see the gauges flickering with and without some throttle applied. Then, I kill the motor at around 20 seconds. You'll notice that as soon as the motor is killed, the gauges STOP flickering and become constant. And then.... and this is where I fear a charging issue could come into play... when I try to restart the motor (NO CHOKE).... She doesn't want to turn over, even though she's just come off a 10+ minute run!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDsCedAP8PE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDsCedAP8PE)
However, she will start if I apply the choke, but when I push it back in, it'll idle down and act like its about to die from low idle speed. This doesn't happen if I take her for a spin on the highway.
Any ideas at to what could be causing this or things that I should check out first?? I have a multi-meter and I just went and took a reading after not starting the bike since in 12 hours. Without the key in, the battery read 12.67 Volts. Then, when I placed the key in and turned it on, it wen't down to 11.89 Volts. Then when I tried to turn her over, it dropped down to 9.8 volts. It's a chilly morning, but I didn't think that would affect the battery THAT much because it's not THAT cold out! Is it time for a new battery? Do you think I have a charging system issue? Am I crazy?!? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
WHOOPS! I accidentally posted the 1st video twice! Here is the link to the second video where I attempt to restart her. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILMrKRCs_f8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILMrKRCs_f8)
Gabe,
Instrument lights flickering as a unit will often be a flaky ground issue at the gauge cluster. Clean and secure the factory grounds, and feel free to add an extra grounding wire or two from the frame to the gauge cluster, where the cluster will be grounded normally.
There are two ends to each battery cable. Make sure that both ends of each battery cable are shiny-clean, everywhere the metals contact each other, and secure. Replace any frayed or damaged cables, of course.
.
Watching the restart video, I dont think thats a charging or battery issue. The bike cranks fine, and strong. Try giving it just a touch of throttle when you do that next time, and if it works, I would look at the carbs. If it was a battery, you would see a slow, harsh crank, as I have on both of my bikes, until I replaced both battery and alternator.
Quote from: red on September 28, 2019, 11:27:25 AM
Gabe,
Instrument lights flickering as a unit will often be a flaky ground issue at the gauge cluster. Clean and secure the factory grounds, and feel free to add an extra grounding wire or two from the frame to the gauge cluster, where the cluster will be grounded normally.
There are two ends to each battery cable. Make sure that both ends of each battery cable are shiny-clean, everywhere the metals contact each other, and secure. Replace any frayed or damaged cables, of course.
.
Red,
I will be sure to check for possible ground issues at the gauge cluster. The terminals and contact points on the battery are very clean and the cables all seem to be in good condition. However....I tried what Ryanschoebel suggested, about giving it a touch of throttle when starting to see if it helped. It didn't, but once again pulling in the choke got her to start right up. She idled for about 30 seconds, then the idle dipped too low and she died. So I pulled the choke in again and got her up, let her run for about 4 of 5 minutes... and wouldn't you know. She dies again right when I'm about to ride...
So, I go to restart her, and suddenly she the starter starts sluggin down until all I can her is audible clicks from the starter. I break out the multi-meter to check the voltage. Battery is resting at 12.67 volts again, however when I hit the starter button THE VOLTAGE DROPPED TO 4.56V and it stayed there until I released the button. At which point the voltage would go back up to the 12.5V+ range. So I'm thinking that the battery is possibly the main culprit here. I'm gonna go buy one and install it to see if that helps. I'll update once I have it installed. Fingers crossed that it makes a difference.
- Gabe
Only some of the back lights are flickering, indicating a vibration as the cause. If ANY lights are steady, the voltage delivery is fine. I would inspect the gauge cluster and re-seat your lights.
UPDATE
So, I did buy a new battery since the one I had in the bike wouldn't start it and I thought for sure that it must be bad if it's dipping down to the 4 Volt range. I properly charged the new battery with a 2 Amp output battery charger/maintainer. Once it was finished, I installed it and made sure to clean the terminals/connectors with a wire brush just to be thorough. She hopped to life very quickly when I tried to start her, although I still had to use some choke.
However, to my great disappointment, the lights still flickered and she still didn't hold the idle well after a minute of running. So, I suppose that attempting to charge the old battery first would have been a less expensive way to see if it would help. I guess you live and you learn. I did take the side panels off and the gas tank. I plan on going over the wires and looking for anything out of the ordinary, and if I can figure out how to get behind the gauge cluster, I'll try to reseat the lights.
Lastly, there was a bit of information that I left out initially that may have helped me navigate this issue better. One of the reasons why I thought maybe I had a battery/charging issue is because even after letting the bike idle with some choke for 5+ minutes, it will slowly dip down in revs until it dies. That is unless you drive her around, and then after about 5 to 10 minutes of riding, she'll idle happily at 975 to 1000 rpm. BUT, at one point the original choke broke and this slide style choke was used a replacement. The original choke seemed to kind of click and secure itself in place if pulled it out, but the one the previous owner installed just moved freely. There seems to be some resistance when pulling the choke out, so if it isn't physically held in place it will slide back in slowly. I'm now wondering if I'd have better results with warming her up if the choke would actually stay where I put it. So, I ordered a new choke assembly from the RPM website. I wanted the original one anyway, not this jerry-rigged temporary solution. I have high hopes that the new one will help the bike warm up better. If not, at least I have the original choke back. lol
Sorry for the novel, thanks for reading!
Aaaaagh....the infamous RED PLUG (were we not just talking about this?)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/104_15_02_15_8_58_24_0.jpeg)
Look inside...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/104_15_02_15_8_58_27_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/104_15_02_15_8_58_30_2.jpeg)
Pat! Infamous red plug?? What is that plug responsible for, and what makes it infamous? Also, where is that red plug located?! I'll take a look at it after work today and see if there's anything wrong with mine.
That is the plug carrying the charging current from your generator and it's located under the left side panel. It may be red, or sometimes white.
You gotta take the plug apart to see any damage.
Remind me, what did you measure as your charging voltage to the battery?
3000 rpm @ 14.2 - 14.6 volts you are good.
It's under the left-side cover, between the alternator and the battery.
It's responsible for the charging voltage (~14.5v +/- about 1.5v) (in the thick red wire, I think) and also the field voltage (brown wire, I think.) I don't have my shop manual handy, but I think that means that all the electrical power produced by the alternator goes through that connector via that red wire.
It's infamous because this current makes the connector very hot, which melts it and causes it to make lousy contact, which causes it to run hot and melt the connector, which causes it to make lousy contact, etc. Also, since it makes lousy contact, the second wire used to regulate the output voltage also makes lousy contact, so the voltage regulator sees a lower return voltage and in turn puts out higher voltage. This may be part of why these bikes overcharge their batteries and boil them dry (one of the common trouble areas.)
Cleaning the terminals with baking soda is probably helpful, so is replacing the connector.
There is also an "adjustable voltage regulator" mod that helps.
Welcome aboard!
OP, the RPM replacement choke cable assembly does click into various positions as you hoped. You will like it.
Joe
Quote from: Pat Conlon on September 30, 2019, 03:21:58 PM
That is the plug carrying the charging current from your generator and it's located under the left side panel. It may be red, or sometimes white.
You gotta take the plug apart to see any damage.
Remind me, what did you measure as your charging voltage to the battery?
3000 rpm @ 14.2 - 14.6 volts you are good.
Pat,
I'm not sure that I checked the correct cords. I haven't put the tank back on yet so I didn't fire her up. (It's unbelievably hot and muggy here in the Twin Cities today so I don't feel like being out side too much!) But I checked the voltage 3 ways. Mind you that she hasn't run in 2 days.
The battery read....
- 12.68 Volts at Rest
- 12.08 Volts with Ignition On
- 10.58 Volts (wouldn't go lower than this) when Cranking the Engine
I'll post pictures of the the wires I was lookin at once they send to my email.
Quote from: Bill_Rockoff on September 30, 2019, 03:26:34 PM
It's under the left-side cover, between the alternator and the battery.
It's responsible for the charging voltage (~14.5v +/- about 1.5v) (in the thick red wire, I think) and also the field voltage (brown wire, I think.) I don't have my shop manual handy, but I think that means that all the electrical power produced by the alternator goes through that connector via that red wire.
It's infamous because this current makes the connector very hot, which melts it and causes it to make lousy contact, which causes it to run hot and melt the connector, which causes it to make lousy contact, etc. Also, since it makes lousy contact, the second wire used to regulate the output voltage also makes lousy contact, so the voltage regulator sees a lower return voltage and in turn puts out higher voltage. This may be part of why these bikes overcharge their batteries and boil them dry (one of the common trouble areas.)
Cleaning the terminals with baking soda is probably helpful, so is replacing the connector.
There is also an "adjustable voltage regulator" mod that helps.
Welcome aboard!
I see, thanks for the info! I have yet to purchase the shop manual, haha, I'll do it soon though. I think mine may be alright, but I'm so unfamiliar with the bikes wiring since I've only had her for a little over 2 weeks. It's a brand new battery so the terminals better be clean, ha! Thanks for the welcome!
:good2:
Quote from: Tuned forks on September 30, 2019, 05:03:59 PM
OP, the RPM replacement choke cable assembly does click into various positions as you hoped. You will like it.
Joe
Joe,
Thanks for letting me know! It'll be here on Wednesday, so I can't wait to install it!
- Gabe
The *battery* terminals might be clean, but those connector blades may not be. Cleaning them might help. I replaced that connector with individual spade connectors, and it has been good for the last 4 years.
Gabe, you need to verify that the generator is charging the battery.
Run the engine at 3000 rpm while you have the multi tester leads on each pole of your battery.
Report back the voltage.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 01, 2019, 01:11:32 AM
Gabe, you need to verify that the generator is charging the battery.
Run the engine at 3000 rpm while you have the multi tester leads on each pole of your battery.
Report back the voltage.
Pat,
I'm sorry it took so long to get back. I was waiting to put the bike back together until I could install my new Choke Cable Assembly from RPM (which I did tonight. It works great!) I actually ended up making a video of the repair, in hopes that it may help another FJ owner out in the future! I'll get it up tomorrow at some point.
So anyway, I ran the bike at 1500rpm first, and the voltage was reading at 15.62, then 15.58, then 15.55, then 15.58, then 15.62, then 15.61, etc... This was happening quite rapidly and it fluctuated back and fourth that way. I took a video of it with the voltage reading visible, and I'll post it for you tomorrow since I don't have time tonight.
Next I rev'd her up to 3000rpm like you asked, and she'd get up to about 15.5 to 15.6 volts. I didn't get the video of the voltage meter at 3000rpm just yet, but what I did capture on video is one of the symptoms that concerns me most. She'll be happy idling at a slightly higher speed (about 1250rpm) with the choke out just slightly after warming up for a few minutes, but then I give her some throttle and she dips WAY down in rpm's. Almost stalls out even. 12.65 volts to 12.75 volts before throttle blip, then 12.21 volts to 12.27 volts or so. If I push the choke in at that point, seeing as she should be warmed up decently, she will most definitely die out.
Once I get those videos uploaded, of her idling and displaying the symptoms, after work, I think my concern will be more clear. I hope that perhaps they can help to uncover what may be happening.
- Gabe
Everyone's gonna warn you about those voltages. I'm going thru the same thing. Over 14.7V is going to cook batteries and burn out other things.
Your choke issue sure looks like a vacuum leak. Smarter minds will set you straight.
Joe
Quote from: Tuned forks on October 02, 2019, 10:05:17 PM
Everyone's gonna warn you about those voltages. I'm going thru the same thing. Over 14.7V is going to cook batteries and burn out other things.
Your choke issue sure looks like a vacuum leak. Smarter minds will set you straight.
Joe
Joe,
I'm actually trying to upload the videos now. If it completes within the next half hour, I'll put them up. Now that you mention it, If I pull the choke out too hard, the carbs almost seems to make a kind of hissing noise that takes causes the RPMs to dip before realizing "Oh wait, i'm choked, I should probably INCREASE my RPMs! Not drop half a thousand RPMs!" and then climbing up. Do you think taking some good old carb cleaning spray and hittin her around the boots and other areas around the carbs (Save for the pod filters) to see if the RPM's jump would be sufficient to check for a vacuum leak?
- Gabe
Anytime your bike idles fine with the choke on, only to die when you take off the choke indicates your idle circuits are plugged.
Time to (properly) clean your carbs.
Re: charging voltage: 15.5-15.6 volts is too high. It's common with FJ's. Consider the Transpo voltage regulator modification.
You will cook any AGM or lithium battery so you don't want those types of batteries in your FJ until you fix the voltage regulator. On a conventional lead acid battery will boil the electrolyte so be sure it is vented properly.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 02, 2019, 10:21:01 PM
Anytime your bike idles fine with the choke on, only to die when you take off the choke indicates your idle circuits are plugged.
Time to (properly) clean your carbs.
Re: charging voltage: 15.5-15.6 volts is too high. It's common with FJ's. Consider the Transpo voltage regulator modification.
You will cook any AGM or lithium battery so you don't want those types of batteries in your FJ until you fix the voltage regulator. On a conventional lead acid battery will boil the electrolyte so be sure it is vented properly.
Man, I knew I'd end up having to take those darn carbs apart and clean 'em up. I can't get lucky!
And as for the charging voltage, I figured you would say that. Here is the video of the bike idling at about 1.5k RPM (with choke engaged) and the voltmeter reading. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H58i4ZzSDQE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H58i4ZzSDQE)
Here is the video of her idling more nicely with just a little baby bit of choke on, but when I give her some throttle, she nearly dies. Voltmeter visible here too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pULId0ziRSQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pULId0ziRSQ)
It just confuses me because while the engine does nearly stall in that last video, the RPM's slowly start to increase back up with the voltage, as seen in the video. Electrical work is still very new to me, so I'm at a loss. I will however look into that Transpo voltage regulator modification. I read in another thread that the Bosch RE55 was a popular replacement for the OEM regulator. Any truth to this?
As always, thanks for all your time and help.
- Gabe
Hello everyone and sorry for going dark for awhile there. Rest assured I've been riding my FJ every single day that I can here. Even when it was 32 degrees Fahrenheit outside earlier this week @ 7:30am for my ride to work in the Twin Cities! Haha, can't keep me down. But I have still been ongoing with this issue and trying to find out the problem. Well, I found it!
UPDATE TIME
While going through a wiring diagram today on my continued quest to figure out this suspected electrical problem, well, I came across a wire I had not noticed was there before. Shout out to Pat Conlon, because that son of a gun was dead on! THE INFAMOUS RED PLUG PROBLEM STRIKES AGAIN!
I looked for the red plug on the left side of the bike when it was suggest, by Pat, that I check it out. I did not find a red plug so I thought that one of my bikes previous owners must have already fixed this. I dismissed it as a possible problem. I was wrong though, the red plug was there. It was just hidden underneath the rear wheel cowl. I was so taken back when I saw it there, borderline disbelief. I wiped it down because it was very dirty, and then I popped her open to see what was inside. Totally toasted alive! Both sides of the plug are messed up, and believe it or not, I'm so happy about it. I now know for a fact that an electrical issue did exist, and I can fix that.
However, I'm not sure what my next step should be. Is there a particular way to replace this plug, or a favorite option for fixing this among the community? Any info is appreciated, as always! (Thanks, Pat, by the way! You were right!) I attached some pictures of the plug too!
Quote from: iWant2RideMyBike on October 19, 2019, 03:01:38 PMI'm not sure what my next step should be. Is there a particular way to replace this plug, or a favorite option for fixing this among the community? Any info is appreciated, as always! (Thanks, Pat, by the way! You were right!) I attached some pictures of the plug too!
iWant2RideMyBike,
I can't give you a Part Number, but these guys have phone help, and they may know what you need. Otherwise, maybe somebody here can chime in with a Part Number. They may need a tracing of the shell to replace it with the same exact connector, but that's
not critical. Just make sure the new connector will have two beefy blade connectors inside, with some sort of keyway design that keeps you from plugging it together in the wrong way.
Here are some sources for vintage electrical connectors of all sizes and types. Call them, for more assistance. Ask about any minimum amount of money for an order. I can always spend more money with what they carry, such as tools, power/fuse boxes, splices, terminal lugs, et c.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html (http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html)
http://vintageconnections.com/ (http://vintageconnections.com/)
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html (http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html)
http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html (http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html)
.
Ha! Even a blind squirrel finds an occasional acorn.
Fix the plug but you gotta ask yourself "Why did this happen?"
After the plug fix, take another read on the charging voltage at the battery. If it continues to be 15.5+ volts and the brown generator field wire ohms out ok, then consider a Transpo VR mod.
The melted red plug is a symptom, not the problem.
Cheers
I replaced my red connector with 2 individual clear shrouded spade connectors. No problems since.
Gabe,
Once any connector gets corroded, it becomes a resistor (think heating element), not a straight conductor. A weak or run-down battery can draw a lot of power (heat) through that plug, melting the corroded plug with no other problems. If the good replacement plug has the fully-charged battery charging at 14 Vdc or more, you probably will need a factory-new or aftermarket-new voltage regulator. Too much charging voltage can boil a good lead-acid battery to death. Check the water levels in the battery often, if possible, when you have a charging problem such as too much voltage coming in.
.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 19, 2019, 07:56:53 PM
Ha! Even a blind squirrel finds an occasional acorn.
Fix the plug but you gotta ask yourself "Why did this happen?"
After the plug fix, take another read on the charging voltage at the battery. If it continues to be 15.5+ volts and the brown generator field wire ohms out ok, then consider a Transpo VR mod.
The melted red plug is a symptom, not the problem.
Cheers
Pat,
yeah I suppose you're right. I rewired her last night and it seemed to help some, but she did still end up going up to 15 volts and hanging around high 14 to 15.3 or so, with the choke open (b/c its been cold in Minnesota the last few days).
When you speak of the brown wire from the generator, I haven't taken the reading on that yet. If it's sketchy, is this the mod/install you're speaking of? I found this on the RPM website. http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Electrical%3ARegulator&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Electrical%3ARegulator&cat=39) I'm willing to spend money making this bike a more complete machine, so that really isn't an issue for me, but of course it seems silly to go around replacing parts that don't need replacing. And I'm in unfamiliar territory with the electrical stuff, so that's my fear at the moment.
Quote from: red on October 19, 2019, 11:58:51 PM
Gabe,
Once any connector gets corroded, it becomes a resistor (think heating element), not a straight conductor. A weak or run-down battery can draw a lot of power (heat) through that plug, melting the corroded plug with no other problems. If the good replacement plug has the fully-charged battery charging at 14 Vdc or more, you probably will need a factory-new or aftermarket-new voltage regulator. Too much charging voltage can boil a good lead-acid battery to death. Check the water levels in the battery often, if possible, when you have a charging problem such as too much voltage coming in.
.
Hey Red,
Thanks for that clarification. I took a class called Micro-Computer Architecture in college a few years back and in that we had training with wiring and setting things up like this, but I have never had to use it since. Most of my knowledge left me, so I'm not very confident about any of this.
Quote from: iWant2RideMyBike on October 22, 2019, 09:44:50 AM
....When you speak of the brown wire from the generator, I haven't taken the reading on that yet. If it's sketchy, is this the mod/install you're speaking of?
Hi Gabe, the field sensor wire is typically the smaller wire that runs with the big red wire (that supplies the heavy generator output) on my bike the wire color is brown, but again it's right next to the big fat red wire.
The purpose of this field wire is to tell your Voltage Regulator (VR) when it's time to charge your battery by reading the voltage of the battery. For example, if the field wire senses 11 volts from your battery, it signals the VR to let current through to the battery to charge it. If the field wire senses 15+ volts at your battery, it signals the VR to stop the current to the battery.
If this field wire or it's connections are compromised, say a bad connection only lets thru 11 volts when actually your battery reads 14 volts....the VR is gonna think your battery needs recharging when it doesn't, thus overcharging your battery. It's not the VR's fault, it's just doing what it is signaled.
Here is more discussion on the subject:
http://www.electronicamotos.com.ar/technical-resources/library/known-issues/street_65300.html (http://www.electronicamotos.com.ar/technical-resources/library/known-issues/street_65300.html)
So, fix your red plug, do a voltage check on this field wire. Compare the battery voltage at both ends, at the battery and at the VR. The voltages should be very close to each other.
If the wire is fine, good. If you are still overcharging @15.5+ volts, replace your voltage regulator.
I suggest the aftermarket adjustable Bosch/Transpo VR IB301A. Here's a link:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=661.0)
IMHO mounting the Transpo VR away from the engine heat and vibrations is a good idea and the cherry on top is the fact that you can adjust the voltage output from the Transpo. I have mine set at 14.4 volts and the output is dead nuts steady at 14.4, never higher. My batteries love this....
Cheers
Pat,
Ahhhhh, now I understand! I do recall there being a difference between the readings on the two wires and the reading on the battery. I'll check and take note of the differences later today after work. All of the electric aspects of motorcycles have been a complete mystery to me these past few years, so thanks for being patient with me while I bumble my way to understanding, haha. Cheers to you!
You're welcome....Just passing on what others on this forum have done for me....that's how this works.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on October 24, 2019, 02:32:49 PM
You're welcome....Just passing on what others on this forum have done for me....that's how this works.
Pat,
Of course, of course! I did take a few multi-meter readings last night. It seems that the field sensor wire is always about 1 volt to a little over 1 volt lower than what the battery reading is. It seemed to be more off when the battery was putting out lower voltages (like 12.3 to 12.4 volts).
When the battery would be putting out 14.8 volts, the field sensor wire would be reading 13.7 or so volts.
When the battery would be putting out 12.4 volts, the field sensor wire would be reading 10.8 volts or so.
Is this acceptable margin of error? I've never took of the cover of a stator before to see whats inside, but maybe I should take a look in there and make sure the connection to the voltage regulator isn't messed up on that end too.
That's not too bad, it could be worse for sure.
Dropping 1 volt is common with our 30 year old wiring, plugs, switches and connectors.
You want to see what voltage drop really looks like?
Take a volt reading at your headlight plug or ignition coils.
You will understand why we do the relay mods.
Do the best you can, clean and seal your wiring plugs and connections. Look for little broken strands of wire at the connectors.
If your system is still charging at 15.5+ volts, change your VR....or get a AAA card and increase your budget for new batteries.
These bikes are tough after all we are talking about 30 year old machines. Having said that I wonder if a post listing the most common issues has been done.
the infamous red plug, gas gap vent, carb hose routing, etc. Ha maybe its been done with every new member reply.
Quote from: Mike 86 in San Dimas on December 15, 2019, 08:29:43 PM
These bikes are tough after all we are talking about 30 year old machines. Having said that I wonder if a post listing the most common issues has been done.
the infamous red plug, gas gap vent, carb hose routing, etc. Ha maybe its been done with every new member reply.
I can't say for sure if it has, but it definitely would be beneficial. I did find out exactly what was making my gauges flicker, once I figured out how to use the wiring diagrams, lol. I had another melted connector up at the front of the wiring harness, underneath the gas tank. Looked fine on the outside, but internally it was just as badly burned up as my generator wire was. I'm planning on fixing it soon. I'm not in a huge hurry because it is very cold out here in the Twin Cities at the moment.