Last night i took delivery of my "new" 92 FJ project bike. It has come to me as a bit of a jigsaw puzzle (or Ikea Flat Pack version).
I bought it off a fellow member (Thanks XRay) who had it in his shed to fix but never quite got around to it.
The current plan, subect to change without notice, is to make her shinny again with minimal mods (except for common sense ones of course)
She will need some loving. First step is to see what is missing, then strip down to a bare frame.
I just wish the AU to US dollar rate was better than $0.62. Makes it real hard to get stuff from RPM.
Updates to follow.
Mark
Congratulations Mark. We are in the same boat. I just bought a '93 last weekend from a forum member. It's painted the same scheme as yours. Never know, we might end up comparing notes.
Joe
I have started on pulling down the 92 (yet to be named). She got a pressure wash (hate working on dirty vehicles), then into the shed for the tear down. I don't actually have a budget for this build, but wanting to keep it far less the the Sparkles (my 84 FJ) build. Here are few of the pics.
Mark
Looking good Mr Mark.
At least you won't have to worry about the "budget" blowing out (popcorn)
Are you fitting a big bore kit with blower :music:?
Thought a supercharged 1350 would be nice with full thunderace running gear, and instead of painting use gold wrap. Just keeping it all very understated. :rofl2:
Nice project Mark! Good on ya for putting her together, kudos!
Have you ever ridden a 4th gen rubber mounted FJ? You are in for a treat.
Much more smooth than our 1st gen FJ's.
So Pat, I am in for a change when I get Paul's '93 running, compared to my '90?
Joe
Thanks Pat
No I hanvn't ridden a 4th Gen yet. Looking forward to it though. I have already sourced a few replacement bits for it, and I am getting the rear shock rebuilt by a motocycle suspension specialist in brisbane. He has already done a few members shocks and his rates are very reasonable.
Mechanically the bike seems in good conditions, so its mostly cosmetic stuff that needs fixing up.
I will replace all the wheel and head stem bearings and the brake lines to bring her up to standard and down the track i would like to get some panniers and top box (dont care if itsGivi or Hepco Becker).
Quote from: Tuned forks on August 28, 2019, 04:58:26 PM
So Pat, I am in for a change when I get Paul's '93 running, compared to my '90?
Joe
I think so Joe.
Your 1990 was the last year of the Gen 3 FJ's and so '91 was the first year for gen 4's and IMO there is a distinct improvement in the reduction of engine vibrations due to the motor mount design.
Lube up those front bushings, adjust the valves and sync the carbies and I bet you'll feel the difference.
FYI Gen 1 = '84/85; Gen 2 = '86/87; Gen 3 = '88/89/90; Gen 4 = '91/92/93/94/95
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 28, 2019, 05:00:17 PM
Thanks Pat
No I hanvn't ridden a 4th Gen yet. Looking forward to it though. I have already sourced a few replacement bits for it, and I am getting the rear shock rebuilt by a motocycle suspension specialist in brisbane. He has already done a few members shocks and his rates are very reasonable.
Mechanically the bike seems in good conditions, so its mostly cosmetic stuff that needs fixing up.
I will replace all the wheel and head stem bearings and the brake lines to bring her up to standard and down the track i would like to get some panniers and top box (dont care if itsGivi or Hepco Becker).
Yes, a proper back shock is #1 on my mod list, the most expensive mod but the most effective.
Heavier front springs are also necessary. Those oem springs were soft the day the bike left Japan.
If you can do fork valves, good, if not at least get a set of progressive springs.
Of course, change those brake lines. I don't consider that to be a modification but a maintenance item.
A set of RPM Vibranators on the bars help diminish the high frequency tingles.
Yep, I really noticed the smoothness along with the better wind protection vs my '84
I think the 1991 and 1992 Non ABS FJ's are the pick of the litter. I am not a fan of the FJ ABS.
Cheers Mark....take lots of pictures for us....makes my heart glad to see you do this. Pat
At least I know what I am in for this time. This is my second FJ resurrection from the dead. And this 92 is in way better condition than my 84 when I started on it. Trying to thak photos of all wire routing as it is different to the 84 in some places. There will be plenty of progress photos too.
Mark
Mark,
Also take this into account. You have been riding the FJ with the smallest fairing, the new to you 1200 has the largest fairing. I have found that for year round riding, multiple windscreens are a must. At the present time I have 4 different windscreens for my 4th gen. For the hottest summer days, I use the OEM standard windscreen. I believe that MRA offers an actual smaller than OEM windscreen. https://www.twistedthrottle.com/mra-spoilerscreen-windshield-for-yamaha-fj1200-91. (https://www.twistedthrottle.com/mra-spoilerscreen-windshield-for-yamaha-fj1200-91.) I have the OEM finned windscreen that I use for Summer touring. Deflects a bit more air, but still works well with a cool vest at highway speeds. I have the regular MRA Touring windscreen that I have been using mostly for riding in the colder temps. It works very well and blocks the air flow from my torso. I just recently picked up a Powerbronze flip windscreen. I have ridden with it for only a few days. I had to remove it because it is so large and the days were to hot. This windscreen is very tall and blocks a lot of wind.
Photos are in order as mentioned.
Fred
Thanks Fred. Sounds advice. I have the screen in the second picture, and was thinking of getting a lower, more sport oriented screen. Any of them would offer more protection than the 84 power bronze screen.
Not quite a mated set. But time and money will get it there.
I have sourced some spare bits for it for just in case. 1200 gauges and dash surround, switch blocks, silver spot callipers. Also got a tool trolley to make life a bit easier and trying to get a bike lift to save me from working on the floor.
Fun times
I got around to pulling a bit more off the 92 today. I was hoping to get it to a bare frame, but my trolley jack is broken and I wasn't going to lift it by myself.
I am getting a nice pile of parts in one corner and a hoarders nest of new bits on my shelves.
I am thinking I will get the frame and associated bits sand blasted and professionally painted., then I can start on the rebuilding task.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 14, 2019, 12:59:55 AM
I got around to pulling a bit more off the 92 today. I was hoping to get it to a bare frame, but my trolley jack is broken and I wasn't going to lift it by myself.
I am getting a nice pile of parts in one corner and a hoarders nest of new bits on my shelves.
I am thinking I will get the frame and associated bits sand blasted and professionally painted., then I can start on the rebuilding task.
Mark, have you considered rattle can paint on the exposed bits of the frame, after all, there's not much of it and the goal is to end up with a flash looking bike that's great to ride, not a concours garage queen.
I guarantee you couldn't pick my frame from a stripped and professionally painted one and who looks that closely. If you are going to use the bike regularly, how long will the bits you can't see look good for anyway?
There are plenty of things that would enhance the ride and the look that would be better bang for buck (IMO)
You might even decide some (or all) of the frame looks better black. There are some excellent examples of such bikes out there, the one below has my favourite, the front rails painted out, I think it looks way better. To me, those down tubes really look like a retro engineered after thought from a length of re-purposed scaffolding, they don't flow.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/318/19209874731_375412e5c2_b.jpg)
Anyway, whatever makes you happy is the right choice, just as long as you've given some thought to it.
You asked a while back if anyone knew of a lift table for sale not too far away, yeah, working on the floor sucks. I know you're a handy man on the tools, why don't you knock yourself up a timber bench and get yourself a mechanics stool, they're not very expensive ($60 SCA) and far more useful than you would imagine.
When I started work in the late 60's lift tables hadn't been invented, not even for workshops and timber benches and ramps were a common sight (so was working on your knees on concrete all day). As there was no such purpose built item, the benches were commonly made by the mechanics from timber bike crates. (work places were different back then) Anything was better than working on the floor, crouched over or lying down on the concrete. It doesn't need to be flash, just sturdy.
You know Mark, you could probably have a brand new hydraulic /pneumatic lift table delivered to your door for the cost of the frame strip and paint!
Whatever you end up doing, it's a great project and you've previously shown you have skill to do it. Do we get to see it at the rally?
Preaching to the converted here, but even after 220k recreational km's over the last 10 years, the magnificence of the FJ is always a conscious thought whenever I ride it. I will sometimes take it to the local shops for milk and bread simply because I haven't ridden it for a few days and miss it.
The RT does everything better but it's just not an FJ!
Not wishing to start a model war here but, you're gonna love that thing when you get it on the road Mark.
Noel
Great insight there Noel. I was originally going to rattle can paint the frame, but there is some rust forming in places that make normal sanding hard. At least if it's stripped back to bare metal and painted properly, I don't have to worry about it.
My 84 has a black frame, which seems to make it disappear. I do like the look of the 3xw you pictured.
The lift table is a luxury that I thought would be nice, but not essential. I built the 84 in a she a quarter of the size than the one I have now.
Now the the 92 is nearly completely stripped, I could put it back together on a raised platform.
Hopefully this one won't have the electrical gremlins the Sparkles has.
I don't think I will have it ready for the next rally, as this is a much more budget oriented build. And I don't have a Triumph Daytona to sell this time to fund my impatience.
OK brains trust. I have found a crack in the frame of the 92. Can these be safely welded? It is o. The join of the bottom portion of the upper rail. Near where the foot plates bolt on.
Ahhh bugger Mark! I'm thinking that could be cleaned up and Mig or Tig welded back to good as new. Will be good to check all of the frame and find someone who can do the repair to a safe standard. Read a few cases of FZ6 frames cracking on the Aussie forums, and some were rewelded with a plate also welded over the repair, so it can be done.
Mark, as X-Ray stated the frame can be welded. However it will likely need to be gusseted or it will crack again. You'll need the services of a welder that is knowledgeable in automotive welding. The inside of the frame might also have substantial rust if water has been leeching into the frame. Might be worth drilling a drain hole wherever you think water would congregate. There are so many FJ's being parted out here in the states that I have to wonder, wouldn't it be feasible to find another frame in Australia? I am aware you might have registration difficulties with a different VIN sequence.
Joe
I would think it could be repaired but it looks like the part below the crack is smaller than the piece above.Im guessing the lower section was inserted into the upper section then welded at the factory so there may be a piece of the lower tubing broken inside of the upper tubing
The crisis may have been averted with Diesel Dave coming to the rescue with a frame, only a few months difference in build dates.
Only have to get it from Sydney to Grafton, but hoping that XRay be able to help with that on his way back from Troyski's shed day.
Mark, no biggy, it doesn't need gussetting or reinforcing, the bead of weld is all it needs. In fact, the welded frame is probably stronger than an uncracked one as it appears to be a flaw in some of them.
The best FJ in the country (the owner may not wish his bike to be identified) cracked there many years and several hundred thousand km's ago and remains perfect to this day with just a single bead of weld.
Must be a bit of a weakness. Relatively, I don't see that many FJ's but I've repaired a couple of those cracks in that exact spot. In both cases it was the LHS but I welded both.
OK everyone, out with your torches and off to the garage...... :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on September 15, 2019, 05:19:21 AM
OK everyone, out with your torches and off to the garage...... :biggrin:
Noel
I'll bring my Torch to Nowra in a couple of weeks :good:
Quote from: Sparky84 on September 15, 2019, 05:28:43 AM
Quote from: ribbert on September 15, 2019, 05:19:21 AM
OK everyone, out with your torches and off to the garage...... :biggrin:
Noel
I'll bring my Torch to Nowra in a couple of weeks :good:
Err....Alan, that would be
next week!
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on September 15, 2019, 05:52:48 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on September 15, 2019, 05:28:43 AM
Quote from: ribbert on September 15, 2019, 05:19:21 AM
OK everyone, out with your torches and off to the garage...... :biggrin:
Noel
I'll bring my Torch to Nowra in a couple of weeks :good:
Err....Alan, that would be next week!
Noel
I don't think so Noel,
(well I hope not)
Quote from: Sparky84 on September 15, 2019, 06:15:46 AM
Quote from: ribbert on September 15, 2019, 05:52:48 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on September 15, 2019, 05:28:43 AM
Quote from: ribbert on September 15, 2019, 05:19:21 AM
OK everyone, out with your torches and off to the garage...... :biggrin:
Noel
I'll bring my Torch to Nowra in a couple of weeks :good:
Err....Alan, that would be next week!
Noel
I don't think so Noel,
(well I hope not)
After a mild panic I checked. The manshed is 27th-29th Sept. Friday this week is the 20th and next week the 27th.
That makes sense to me but I'm still a tad worried. Have I got the right year dates?
Noel
Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 14, 2019, 10:16:00 PM
OK brains trust. I have found a crack in the frame of the 92. Can these be safely welded? It is o. The join of the bottom portion of the upper rail. Near where the foot plates bolt on.
Mate, I'm not a welder but I know a few at work. They reckon this can be welded, MIG would be best, but you could get it TIG'd. The crack seems pretty old and all the way around. Their best guess is the weld didn't lap over the two parts evenly enough and has come away. Given there's been no movement in such a long crack (you'd see 'sooting' around the crack) supports a safe to weld guess. They also said if you did weld grind back the old weld a bit and both edges to see if there is anything else wrong before welding.
But, if Diesel has already sorted you out, go for a new one!
Quote from: Troyskie on September 16, 2019, 03:49:37 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 14, 2019, 10:16:00 PM
OK brains trust. I have found a crack in the frame of the 92. Can these be safely welded? It is o. The join of the bottom portion of the upper rail. Near where the foot plates bolt on.
............ Their best guess is the weld didn't lap over the two parts evenly enough and has come away....
Having had the chance to inspect first hand, that is also my take on it. Even though there were signs the cracks were not new, there was little evidence of movement or stress.
Pete's a welder, where are you Pete?
Noel
Weld it no problems at all. Grind, preheat and use low hydrogen electrodes or MIG. Looks as if it was not welded properly at the production line.
Get Ray to bring it down to Troys and we'll have a go at welding it up late on Saturday night. I could run a frame welding course after the usual Manshed :drinks: Saturday arvo drink or two.
Seriously, welding would be easy.
Regards, Pete.
This trip is also going to be a getaway anniversary road trip for us, and we had not planned to go through Grafton twice, just going via inland route. If it helps Mark, and David gets his frame to Troys then we can make a detour on the way back and drop it off for you.
Mark, having seen two of these myself, and yours makes three, I'd actually have a preference for the welded frame over one that hasn't cracked - yet!
I know it's not common and the chances of the next one blah blah blah..... but given the difficulty in getting the frame there it might be worth thinking a little more about having it welded. Even my shitty welding has lasted longer than the factory weld ever did.
Logistics aside, welding is in my opinion the better of the two options anyway.
Noel
Mark, I'm with Noel & Pete on this. My bro had a cracked frame welded back in the late 80's (1100). That bike had about 30k on it at the time. It now has about 700k and the weld is still fine.
Thank you all for your advice. I will probably get the frame repaired so I can keep the bike matching numbers. However I will still get the spare frame off Diesel Dave, just in case.
Mark
Mark/urban Legend - if you want a lift table and have some very basic welding skills, I could send you the drawings/sketches for mine and the measurements.
It utilises a basic 2 tonne car trolley jack, but is really sturdy and stable. Let me know if you want me to send you some details. All in, I'd guess it would cost less than $100
Quote from: Millietant on September 19, 2019, 08:35:07 AM
Mark/urban Legend - if you want a lift table and have some very basic welding skills, I could send you the drawings/sketches for mine and the measurements.
It utilises a basic 2 tonne car trolley jack, but is really sturdy and stable. Let me know if you want me to send you some details. All in, I'd guess it would cost less than $100
Dean, I was really impressed with your lift table and saved the photos intending to build one. It was the best and simplest home built unit I have seen. If you have any details, measurements etc, they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Noel
Hi All
Small update. I haven't done much on the 92 for a while, so today I decided to finally extract my digit and get the crack in the frame fixed. It comes in handy having a mate who is a boiler maker by trade. It only took him about 10 minutes to grind out and mig weld the crack. While we were at it we decided to grind out and weld the other side of the frame as a precaution.
Now that this has been done, it means that I can now start getting the frame cleaned up for painting and begin the long job of reassembly.
Mark
Quote from: ribbert on September 19, 2019, 08:52:35 AM
Quote from: Millietant on September 19, 2019, 08:35:07 AM
Mark/urban Legend - if you want a lift table and have some very basic welding skills, I could send you the drawings/sketches for mine and the measurements.
It utilises a basic 2 tonne car trolley jack, but is really sturdy and stable. Let me know if you want me to send you some details. All in, I'd guess it would cost less than $100
Dean, I was really impressed with your lift table and saved the photos intending to build one. It was the best and simplest home built unit I have seen. If you have any details, measurements etc, they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Noel
Hey Noel - I missed your post when you wrote it, but have just noticed it today - i've PM'd you the sketches and measurements - 7 pictures in all.
Hope you get the bench built and get many years of use out of it - I love mine :good2:
Quote from: Millietant on January 11, 2020, 09:17:00 AM
Quote from: ribbert on September 19, 2019, 08:52:35 AM
Quote from: Millietant on September 19, 2019, 08:35:07 AM
Mark/urban Legend - if you want a lift table and have some very basic welding skills, I could send you the drawings/sketches for mine and the measurements.
It utilises a basic 2 tonne car trolley jack, but is really sturdy and stable. Let me know if you want me to send you some details. All in, I'd guess it would cost less than $100
Dean, I was really impressed with your lift table and saved the photos intending to build one. It was the best and simplest home built unit I have seen. If you have any details, measurements etc, they would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Noel
Hey Noel - I missed your post when you wrote it, but have just noticed it today - i've PM'd you the sketches and measurements - 7 pictures in all.
Hope you get the bench built and get many years of use out of it - I love mine :good2:
Dean,
Is this something you can post in the fjowners tools section? I'm sure there are several people that would love to build their own lift. If not, can you please PM the drawings/pictures/plans. Thanks!
Chris
Quote from: fj1289 on January 11, 2020, 03:52:37 PM
Dean,
Is this something you can post in the fjowners tools section? I'm sure there are several people that would love to build their own lift. If not, can you please PM the drawings/pictures/plans. Thanks!
Chris
Chris, the drawings are posted in the galley section.
Maybe we can get a file built with the details.
Randy - RPM
Hi Chris,
As Randy has noted, I put the photo's of the sketches in the Gallery so I could include them in a PM.
TBH, my only concern is that someone with less than stellar welding skills, does a botch job and then blames me if it fails, for putting the sketches in the public domain - so I'll say this here and now; I can offer no guarantees re the table lift nor accept any liability/responsibility in case of any failure/accident (I'm not a business and I don't make money from this), but I've been using my ramp to these sketches, for years now with no failures - I suppose the one thing I do need to re-iterate is that I use a bungee hook to hold up the security/fixing leg when I lower the ramp from its "up" position; failure to do so could possibly result in trapped fingers (i haven't trapped mine yet, but trying to hold the leg up and lower the table at the same time is not something want to try) - and I always release the pressure to lower the jack very slowly - common sense really.
Hope this helps and is OK.
Thanks Dean!
Agreed - there are too many idiots in this world that won't take responsibility for their own actions and want to blame someone else when something goes wrong.
Quote from: fj1289 on January 11, 2020, 06:42:24 PM
Thanks Dean!
Agreed - there are too many idiots in this world that won't take responsibility for their own actions and want to blame someone else when something goes wrong.
What I did notice I missed mentioning is that I use a big-standard 2 tonne trolley jack I got from a car parts store, as the lifting mechanism - mine came with a "cup" fitting that sits perfectly/securely under the lifting arm point.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_18_02_19_5_00_24.png)
Quote from: Millietant on January 11, 2020, 06:23:29 PM
......TBH, my only concern is that someone with less than stellar welding skills, does a botch job and then blames me if it fails, for putting the sketches in the public domain.....
Dean, It's no different to providing written advice or instructions, something that is done hear on the forum and a million other places on the net daily.
Thanks for posting the details, much appreciated. I got the PM
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on January 11, 2020, 08:19:13 PM
Quote from: Millietant on January 11, 2020, 06:23:29 PM
......TBH, my only concern is that someone with less than stellar welding skills, does a botch job and then blames me if it fails, for putting the sketches in the public domain.....
Dean, It's no different to providing written advice or instructions, something that is done hear on the forum and a million other places on the net daily.
Thanks for posting the details, much appreciated. I got the PM
Noel
What I did just notice looking at the photo is that once raised and locked, the welded joins form no part of the load bearing pivots, it's all nuts and bolts.
Yes, it's just the inverted "V" pieces that lock the leg in place, lifting crossmember between the legs and the welding that holds the left-side pieces to the right-side. Everything else is taken through the bolts.
I like the "overkill" and sturdiness, some might say it's "numb", but it's not precision engineering :biggrin:
I have finally started to make some progress on the 92. After having the bike sitting in my shed stripped to a bare frame for months, I have now sanded back the frame, paint4ed it and have started on some reassembly.
Before i reinstalled the motor, I checked the shim gaps (tighter than I would like, but still in spec....just). As I don't have a shim tool yet, changing them out will have to wait.
The motor was degreased, pressure washed and wiped over with perpsol and painted. I have also stripped the fin edges back and polished.
I have the rear shock absorber boxed up to send off for a rebuild and the front shocks ready for some Racetech intermans (icant afford RPM items with the crappy aussie dollar and exhange rate)
The seat will be dropped in to be reupholstered next week. Thnigs aree finally stating to move along.
Let the jigsaw puzzel building begin
Mark
Jad a successful parts run to Sydney (1200km return)to Diesel Daves. Got a complete 92 subframe, 92 Fuel Tank in reasonable condition, Gearsack rack, XJR1300 cans and a YZF 17x5 rear wheel.
I also dropped in to see David Moore to deliver the 92's seat for reupholstering.
The next steps will be to get the suspension done.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on June 13, 2020, 04:44:30 AM
Jad a successful parts run to Sydney (1200km return)to Diesel Daves. Got a complete 92 subframe, 92 Fuel Tank in reasonable condition, Gearsack rack, XJR1300 cans and a YZF 17x5 rear wheel.
I also dropped in to see David Moore to deliver the 92's seat for reupholstering.
The next steps will be to get the suspension done.
Good stuff Mark, it's coming together. Sounds like you've got the makings of a whole bike there. I don't know if you've had a Gearsack rack before but they are the bee's knees. You might be able to "transfer" Sparkles rego over to the new one. I look forward to seeing at a Rally or Manshed weekend not too far off.
Noel
Hi Noel. I have a gearsack rack on Sparkes, that I cut the hoop off to attach a top box. The only issue I have with the gearsack racks is when the plastic coating start peeling off. It just looks bad. The 93 is coming together nicely, and on budget so far too. Being a lot more careful on what I spend money, and how much. Dave made me an excellent deal on the parts I got.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on June 13, 2020, 09:17:44 AM
....... The 93 is coming together nicely, and on budget so far too......
....you must have forgotten something. :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on June 13, 2020, 09:38:02 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on June 13, 2020, 09:17:44 AM
....... The 93 is coming together nicely, and on budget so far too......
....you must have forgotten something. :biggrin:
Noel
Getting the fairing and tank repainted will probably blow the budget out of the water. So far it has cost me less than $1300 including the cost of purchasing the bike.
Mark
G'day Mark, good to see you're making good progress with the '93 resto. Just my opinion mate, I know you're on a tight budget, but I would spend the
money on a new YSS shock rather than getting that antiquated rear shock rebuilt. Put up with the old shock until you save the extra cash required for the YSS.
You won't be sorry.
Regards, Pete. :good2:
The thought had crossed my mine. Same as swapping the 89 front end off Sparkles onto the 92. (I said 93 earlier. That was a typo) The plan is for the 92 to be my long distance tourer and for Sparkles to be my fun bike.
P.S. Pete can you contact me about club rego for Sparkles.
Mark
Quote from: oldktmdude on June 13, 2020, 04:58:53 PM
I would spend the
money on a new YSS shock rather than getting that antiquated rear shock rebuilt.
+1 Listen to Pete. :good:
There is a reason an aftermarket rear shock is #1 on my list of mods.
Yes, it's the most expensive mod, but, so worth it.
I'm with Pat and Pete on this. Spending £280 on my Hagon shock (set up specifically for me and my bike/riding) back in 2008 and another £100 having it rebuilt, with a new 2 year factory warranty in 2018, was the best money I've ever spent on my FJ.
If you can find the funds for anything, spend them on a rear shock - YSS/Hagon/Nitron/RPM/Ohlins....whatever your budget will allow :good2:
Penske
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on June 17, 2020, 12:09:18 AM
Penske
:rofl:
That would really blow the budget out of the water.
I have a Hagon on my 84 that is doing quite well, so might give the YSS a go when finances allow.
Mark
Update time.
https://youtu.be/Gs4pxne39OY
Here is a little video update and some photos of where I am up to with my project 92 rebuild
https://youtu.be/N4yaK4Ns6nw
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on June 26, 2020, 07:05:50 AM
Here is a little video update and some photos of where I am up to with my project 92 rebuild
https://youtu.be/N4yaK4Ns6nw
Mark
Thanks for the update Mark, it's really coming along. I suspect next years rally may be a completion target?
I gave up on exhaust coatings, not because of cost, but whatever I used failed at the top bend on the headers given enough miles.
Why don't you just polish them, for free. They look good, the finish lasts a surprisingly long time and it's easy to touch them up while fitted. You also mentioned painting the calipers, I don't think they're painted. Fred (and others) will know for sure.
This is what lurks beneath...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7489/16228655302_dc7937ecd6_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7486/15637542064_2b86b54c14_o.jpg)
After they had a bit of colour from use(https://live.staticflickr.com/8676/15949074638_9f70759489_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50047113797_6a09e28649_b.jpg)
Noel
Noel, did you use the rope wheel first on those pipes?
Quote from: Urban_Legend on June 26, 2020, 08:30:52 AM
Noel, did you use the rope wheel first on those pipes?
Mark, not quite sure what you mean by "rope." I have a few wheels and the options that can be bought are endless but nearly all of my polishing needs are met by a pair of loose wheels (one for polishing, one for buffing) and occasionally a stitched wheel, which is more aggressive, both shown below. That photo of the part polished pipe was done with just the loose wheel. I only ever one grade of polish, I have the others but trial and error has showed them to add nothing but more work to the finished job.
Like so many other processes such as engine painting, paint polishing, screen and plastic restoration etc, too much is made of the number of processes needed. The pipes in those photos were polished using the loose wheel only and one grade of polish. There are many tips and tricks, let me know if you want to do this.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DbwAAOSwrx1cddNf/s-l400.jpg)
Noel
My mistake Noel. I have a soft cloth wheel and a stitched cloth wheel.
Mark
I spent the day polishing up the exhaust pipes on the recommendation of Noel and Fred. I found that giving them a quick rub back with 400 wet/dry then 800 to remove the 30 years of road grime and some of Yamaha's factory coating. I didn't end up getting the mirror finish that Noel has, but they are much improved.
I get them all fitted up and install the XJR mufflers that I got from Diesel Dave in Sydney. She is really coming together now.
https://youtu.be/iB9kojBsPE4
Mark
Looks great! So the stock muffler is also stainless?
That was also my next question. I hope my 1991 3wx has the same stainless sections. I'm pretty sure the down pipes are, but the end cans look mighty rusty to me, so I suspect not. Any 3wx owners care to comment on exhaust materials?
These polished efforts are really good looking, but when you are polishing, you probably are not riding.
That was also my next question. I hope my 1991 3wx has the same stainless sections.
I am pretty sure that it is only the header pipe and collector that are stailess steel.
These polished efforts are really good looking, but when you are polishing, you probably are not riding.
That is why is have an 84FJ as well.
Mark
Quote from: andyoutandabout on June 28, 2020, 09:48:11 PM
That was also my next question. I hope my 1991 3wx has the same stainless sections. I'm pretty sure the down pipes are, but the end cans look mighty rusty to me, so I suspect not. Any 3wx owners care to comment on exhaust materials?
These polished efforts are really good looking, but when you are polishing, you probably are not riding.
Are the mufflers in the pic the XJR mufflers he referred to?
Yes. Xjr1300
Here's a really quick update on the Project 92
Links to products in the description
https://youtu.be/N4yaK4Ns6nw
https://youtu.be/iB9kojBsPE4
https://youtu.be/UgDUJu3A9PE
Quote from: Urban_Legend on June 17, 2020, 12:33:46 AM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on June 17, 2020, 12:09:18 AM
Penske
:rofl:
That would really blow the budget out of the water.
I have a Hagon on my 84 that is doing quite well, so might give the YSS a go when finances allow.
Mark
How's the Hagon going?
I'm thinking of replacing the original shock on my 84 and have been tossing up between the Hagon and YSS but I really don't know how well they perform. Any input would be welcome.
I'm not a "scratcher", but I like to feel that I'm safe and secure if you know what I mean.
I've had a Hagon on my FJ for over 11 years and it's been brilliant - so have Hagon as a supplier.
When a seal blew (after the bike had been laid up for a number of years, it leaked after my first "hard" ride after re-commissioning), Hagon totally overhauled the shock and gave it back to me with a full, as new, 2 year warranty... all for £100. As I live not too far from them, I took it to them and they gave it back 3 hours later.
RevDeal (Jacob) has just bought one from them - you could ask his opinion (I think it cost less than $400, shipped to his home in the USA, in less than a week from ordering).
The UK FJ Owners Club recommend both Hagon and YSS as quality shocks at budget prices and although the YSS is a relatively new option (compared to Hagon), the Hagons have been put on FJ's for nigh on 30 years now - I'd guess, they're well tested !
If I lived in the US and money wasn't an option, I'd buy the RPM shock every time
Quote from: Millietant on July 31, 2020, 01:48:34 AM
I've had a Hagon on my FJ for over 11 years and it's been brilliant - so have Hagon as a supplier.
When a seal blew (after the bike had been laid up for a number of years, it leaked after my first "hard" ride after re-commissioning), Hagon totally overhauled the shock and gave it back to me with a full, as new, 2 year warranty... all for £100. As I live not too far from them, I took it to them and they gave it back 3 hours later.
RevDeal (Jacob) has just bought one from them - you could ask his opinion (I think it cost less than $400, shipped to his home in the USA, in less than a week from ordering).
The UK FJ Owners Club recommend both Hagon and YSS as quality shocks at budget prices and although the YSS is a relatively new option (compared to Hagon), the Hagons have been put on FJ's for nigh on 30 years now - I'd guess, they're well tested !
If I lived in the US and money wasn't an option, I'd buy the RPM shock every time
Thanks for that, it was just the kind of info I was looking for. I recall, many moons ago in my Moto-x and enduro days, Hagon and Girling were the go-to aftermarket shock. Time to go shopping.
Give them your weight (in your riding gear) and preferred riding "type" (2 up touring, sport/track days, single rider bumbling about etc) and they'll set it up for you before they despatch it (both Hagon and YSS) :good2:
While i am waiting on a few parts, I thought i might as well check the valve shims. About half of them were out of spec. Just glad I kept the shims out of the old 1100 motor. Here is a little video i did
I have also been doing some repairs on the fairing. It had most of the air scoop tabs missing. All good now though.
Mark
https://youtu.be/_ByX_m850UI
https://youtu.be/qV3uansUpRc
Nice videos Mark ! did the valveshim adjustment help on the running on 3 cylinder problem ?
Don't know yet. Will let you know when I know.
Ok. So it is running better. Still sounds like it only on 3, but still better. I will give it it a car clean and another balance and hopefully it will be all good.
I am going to toss the stock airbox, and put on pods, so will raise the needles one spot to start off too.
https://youtu.be/bk_YOXemyVQ
Good stuff Mark, it's starting to look like a motorbike, a nice clean freshly painted one! Once you've "demystified" one and stripped it to the frame, and in your case split the cases as well, there's not much to them is there.
I know the smoothness of the 3XW's had been mentioned many times in the context of your build but have you ridden one? Smooth? I've never replaced a single globe in mine, ever!
Keep us updated and I look forward to seeing it in the flesh, if we ever get to have an interstate gathering again before I'm too old to ride!!
Noel
Thanks Noel. No, I have never ridden one of the "modern " 4th gen FJ's. Only Sparkles and Petes bike. The 92 is all new to me. Fuel pumps, Hazard Lights, 15 piece fairing etc are all new to me.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on August 23, 2020, 05:08:06 AM
Ok. So it is running better. Still sounds like it only on 3, but still better.
Try reterminating the caps onto leads and while you have caps off leads, check their resistance and make sure they are tightened up inside the cap.
The Project 92 has gone ahead in leaps and bounds in recent weeks. I will post some photos and video soon, but lets just say it is very close to being on the road.
In the last few weeks I have -
Refurbished and installed the Silver Spot brake calipers.
Fitted FJR brake and clutch master cylinders
Refurbished the slave cylinder
Tuned, balanced and cleaned the carbs - she is running sweet now.
Found and fixed an issue with the gear selection - more info on this later.
Stripped and repainted the wheels - now with a polished lip and Tungsten colour on the spokes.
Fitted a new DID chain
Fitted HEL braided brake lines
Painted the previously polished clutch cover, Crank end cap cover, Timing cover and the alternator cover in Tungsten to match the wheels and forks
Fitted the main fairing and associated parts.
So whats left to do
I still have to rebuild the forks. This should have been done months ago, but apparently I like pulling stuff apart and redoing it.
New tyres. The current ones are many years past their best and have gone hard.
Still waiting on my CBR mirrors to turn up. Who knows when that will be.
And I still need to do something with the rear shock. This one is a budget breaker.
I could still fit the YZF 17x5 rear wheel that I have, but that will require machine work that i am not prepared to do myself.
Budget wise I am currently on track to have the bike on the road for less than $2500 which includes the original purchase price of the bike. This will give me a bike that has had a bare frame rebuild and that I know has all of the appropriate safety and farkle upgrades.
Mark
Mark,
If the wheel you're fitting is from the YZF 600 R Thundercat, there's virtually no machining to do. The caliper mount can be modified by hand if you take it nice and easy and if you measure the FJ spacer from the brake side I think it's the right size to fit on the YZF wheel on the sprocket side (so you don't have to get the original machined down).
That makes the whole swap really simple.
Here are some videos/pictures of the bike updates and a gear selection issue solved and quick clutch removal tutorial.
https://youtu.be/BbIreHGNlsA
https://youtu.be/yLgAw5xOXC4
Quote from: Urban_Legend on November 23, 2020, 05:42:52 AM
Here are some videos/pictures of the bike updates and a gear selection issue solved and quick clutch removal tutorial.
https://youtu.be/BbIreHGNlsA
https://youtu.be/yLgAw5xOXC4
Great stuff Mark, it does indeed look and sound like a motorbike. Full marks for keeping at it, these sort of projects often get pushed to the back of the que or progress spasmodically, particularly if you've got something else to ride. ( I did have a problem with 2 soundtracks slightly apart on the second vid but it didn't spoil it)
I'll miss our roadside chats while we trouble shoot electrical gremlins on rally rides. :biggrin:
Man, you're going to love that smooooth. Look forward to seeing it in the flesh, it's looking great.
Noel
Hi all.
I haven't posted anything on this project for a while, but it is progressing. The bike is now nearly all done. I rebuilt the forks last weekend and have ordered some new Avon Spirit ST tyres for it. I also put in a order with RPM for some miscellaneous parts.
The bike will be booked in for inspection (blue slip in NSW Australia) and registered in the next 2 weeks. (tags for USA people)
Quote from: Urban_Legend on February 28, 2021, 07:22:32 PM
Hi all.
I haven't posted anything on this project for a while, but it is progressing. The bike is now nearly all done. I rebuilt the forks last weekend and have ordered some new Avon Spirit ST tyres for it. I also put in a order with RPM for some miscellaneous parts.
The bike will be booked in for inspection (blue slip in NSW Australia) and registered in the next 2 weeks. (tags for USA people)
I'm in the same boat as you, trying to "get back in gear".
I've got to do my forks as well - gotta get the garage organized 1st.
Then so much more, but anyway:
Avon Spirit ST's - I like them, had good luck with them, I think you'll be pleased with them.
Quote from: ribbert on November 23, 2020, 07:12:04 AM
I'll miss our roadside chats while we trouble shoot electrical gremlins on rally rides. :biggrin:
Noel
I'm sure You'll still be having those chats, Noel :biggrin:
Quote from: Urban_Legend on February 28, 2021, 07:22:32 PM
Hi all.
I haven't posted anything on this project for a while, but it is progressing. The bike is now nearly all done. I rebuilt the forks last weekend and have ordered some new Avon Spirit ST tyres for it. I also put in a order with RPM for some miscellaneous parts.
The bike will be booked in for inspection (blue slip in NSW Australia) and registered in the next 2 weeks. (tags for USA people)
Looking sharp there Mark, did it come in under budget?
I can only comment on the rear (still have 16's all the way round) for the Avons, very nice feel on the rear, can only wait until they are half used and then hopefully they'll still be good.
Quote from: Sparky84 on March 02, 2021, 10:23:27 PM
Quote from: ribbert on November 23, 2020, 07:12:04 AM
I'll miss our roadside chats while we trouble shoot electrical gremlins on rally rides. :biggrin:
Noel
I'm sure You'll still be having those chats, Noel :biggrin:
I foresee that there will still opportunity for this in our future Noel. :rofl:
Quote from: Urban_Legend on February 28, 2021, 07:22:32 PM
Hi all.
I haven't posted anything on this project for a while, but it is progressing. The bike is now nearly all done. I rebuilt the forks last weekend and have ordered some new Avon Spirit ST tyres for it. I also put in a order with RPM for some miscellaneous parts.
The bike will be booked in for inspection (blue slip in NSW Australia) and registered in the next 2 weeks. (tags for USA people)
Looking sharp there Mark, did it come in under budget?
I can only comment on the rear (still have 16's all the way round) for the Avons, very nice feel on the rear, can only wait until they are half used and then hopefully they'll still be good.
Yes the bike is around about on budget...no exact figures, but including the purchase of the bike ($800) the project is at about $2500. If/when I purchase a YSS rear shock, it will be at $3k.
I have heard nothing but good reports about the AVON Spirit tyres, so here's hoping. Eventually there will be a 17" rear on the bike, but don't have all of the bits for it yet, then i will go with the Bridgstone tyres that I have on Sparkles. Battlax S21 front and Battlax T31 rear.
The bike is booked in for its Blue slip inspection on Monday morning. Everything works as it should, so I don't see there being and issues from the mechanic.
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on March 02, 2021, 11:38:29 PM
The bike is booked in for its Blue slip inspection on Monday morning. Everything works as it should, so I don't see there being and issues from the mechanic.
Mark
How exciting Mark, it's been quite a journey, I hope it passes without drama. I'm sure we'll hear the hootin' and hollerin' from here.
This build has not been without it's challenges, you've earned it, enjoy!
Noel
Quote from: Sparky84 on March 02, 2021, 10:23:27 PM
I'm sure You'll still be having those chats, Noel :biggrin:
I hope not Alan, that wiring was something I wish I could unsee.
Noel
What's the build date for the 92? If it's built in 91 it's eligible for Historic rego.
Quote from: krusty on March 04, 2021, 12:08:46 AM
What's the build date for the 92? If it's built in 91 it's eligible for Historic rego.
Do they have to be 30 yo up there? (25 years here)
Noel
Yes.
In Qld as well
The Day Has Come. Judgement Day for the Project 92. Will it pass inspection? Watch and find out!
https://youtu.be/lZxFEZ9zFp0
Hi All.
So, yes the 92 passed its rego inspection with flying colours. All up the 12months NSW rego cost me $540. I raced straight to the motor registery and they took my money and gave me a shiny new number plate for the bike, which I very promptly put onto the bike.
Then it was time to finally take it out for a ride. It was a very gentle ride as I am still waiting on the new tyrers to be delivered (any moment now), and i know the perils of riding on 12 year old hard rubber. First stop was the servo for some fuel and to check the tyres pressure, and when all good, I set off on a small cuircut just out of town.
Everything works as it should on the bike. Blinkers blink, brakes stop and the twist lever on the right handle bar make it go faster.
The front suspenion is nice and firm with out being harsh. The rear original suspension felt ok, but I am going to replace it with a YSS unit as soon as money allows. The rebound just seemed a bit off. and under acceleration the bike definitley squatted down in the rear.
The bike has plenty of oh so smooth power. I won't say it is more the sparkles, but it is there in different places. Gear changes were smooth and the motor sounds sweet. Its so much quieter then my 84 (84 has 4-2-1 RPM pipes and the 92 is 4-2 FJ pipes with XJR mufflers).
The screen works much better than the 84 screen too. A lot less wind noise and bufferting.
I will go over the bike now and check everything is still tight and then when the new tyres are on it, take it for a proper ride.
Quote from: Urban_Legend on March 07, 2021, 06:44:00 PM
So, yes the 92 passed its rego inspection with flying colours. All up the 12months NSW rego cost me $540. I raced straight to the motor registery and they took my money and gave me a shiny new number plate for the bike, which I very promptly put onto the bike.
.... riding on 12 year old hard rubber....
Well done Mark!
Don't find out the hard way just how hard 12 year old tyres are, I wouldn't ride to the front gate to get the mail on them.
I had no idea rego was so cheap up there, I pay just under $900.
Noel
Hi Noel
I have seen first hand the dangers of hard rubber. Went for a ride with a guy once with old rubber. It started to drizzle on the ride, and it was like watching him tring to ride with bald tyres on an ice skating rink. Was not a fun day out for him. :negative:
Was a shake down ride only for today as this bike has not been on the road for at least 5 or 6 years....possibly more. I am the third owner that took it on as a basket case (Ray Wise and Doug Hoar being the other two) I thought 20km would be more than enough to find any mechanical issue (none showed up.)
So on with the new rubber when it turns up, put another 200 -300 km on it, drop the oil, then new filters and lube and see what she has got.
Mark