On a recent trip, my chin fairing which had a small crack has now gone so far so it's broken now.
Do I try to plastic weld it or use some construction adhesive with fine mesh on the back or will it just keep breaking? :dash1:
Wait for it..... :bomb:
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 25, 2019, 11:47:58 PM
Wait for it..... :bomb:
:lol:
Should I add that I'm using 10/40w oil
Quote from: Sparky84 on May 26, 2019, 12:02:29 AM
Quote from: FJmonkey on May 25, 2019, 11:47:58 PM
Wait for it..... :bomb:
:lol:
Should I add that I'm using 10/40w oil
Unless I'm mistaken, both sides need love.
Try rubber bands, magic and waffle dust. :wacko2:
Or Plasti Fix. Worked for me, but you do need to do the paper clip trick, or mesh on the back.
Troyskie
Quote from: Troyskie on May 26, 2019, 12:12:15 AM
Unless I'm mistaken, both sides need love.
Try rubber bands, magic and waffle dust. :wacko2:
Or Plasti Fix. Worked for me, but you do need to do the paper clip trick, or mesh on the back.
Troyskie
Other side is OK, just doesn't look it.
Where is Oz do you get the Plasti Fix, everywhere seems to be overseas and doesn't ship to here!
I use plastex. It comes with a reusable mold making rubber bar just heat it up in hot water. Great stuff. Plastic powder. With a chemical that melts it into the plastic of the chin spoiler. Just use fiber glass cloth to reinforce It on the back side.put plastic powder on both sides of the fiberglass cloth and it's inside the plastic.if you do it right you will hardly see the crack. the front. You can even fill in missing pieces
Quote from: Sparky84 on May 25, 2019, 11:39:19 PM
On a recent trip, my chin fairing which had a small crack has now gone so far so it's broken now.
Do I try to plastic weld it or use some construction adhesive with fine mesh on the back or will it just keep breaking? :dash1:
I've heard of Lego soaked in acetone (or paint thinner) then used like bog (bondo) with the paper clip reinforcement. I've havent tried it.
As a keen windsurfer I bought myself and electric rope cutter, kinda like a soldering iron with a narrow blade that gets red hot. These can easily be used be used to do the paper clip repair. Again, I haven't tried it yet but will soon as I have some FJ11 plastics that need repair.
Rick, calling Rick. Please come to the white courtesy phone. :biggrin:
Joe
https://youtu.be/wyd8Y8MOj68
Rick I bought the professional size plastifix kit that came with a booklet on how to use it but it doesn't say how long for it to cure.will it cure overnight?I have to repair my front fender tabs before the WCR.
I always let it cure overnight. It gets hard enough to grind within an hour or so, but I leave it alone.
Just watched the plastifix video.looks to be the same product as plastex. You can just groove out the back side. And fill.with the plastex/plastifix. You can use the dropper method. Or just fill the crack with powder and allow it to pool around the crack and wet it down with the liquid. Then while it's still wet add fine fiberglass cloth. From hobby shop. Add some more powder over the fiberglass and make sure it's wet again. Then you have a fiberglass reinforced repair. And the paint side will only have a hairline crack in the paint. I've done lot's of repairs with plastex this way and haven't had one open up yet.
I only use the fiberglass If it's a high stress area. Other wise I just fill the back side with plastex. And haven't had any of these fail either.
I bought large quantities of plastex. About quart size of each and extra molding bars. Been several years since I bought the shop sized containers. Should last me a while.
Just checked the plastex website. Prices have gone up since I bought mine.(back in 2013) But now they have polyethylene repair too.
With plastex you aren't limited to a kit. You can buy all the components separate. Get refills. get accessories.
I'm not a salesman. Just want to share something that I found with everyone. Because it's so easy and it works
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/2349_20_01_15_3_56_39_1.jpeg)
Here is a picture of a scoop most of what is black was missing. Took a mold from a good scoop and built it up with plastex. Can be sanded with sandpaper.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/8/2349_20_01_15_3_56_52_6.jpeg)
And the back side reinforced with fiberglass.
I can see why Rick is so passionate about plastifix.It is great stuff.I just fixed the front fender of my black FJ.I didn't have much time before the bike had to be back together for the WCR so they aren't perfect but it will be easy to go back later and put one more coat on and use fine sandpaper to finish it instead of a big flat metal file. plastifix puts into your hands the power to re-create all the fairing parts.I'm going to try and make a complete fuse cover next.
Yup.
Quote from: giantkiller on May 26, 2019, 06:45:48 AM
I use plastex. It comes with a reusable mold making rubber bar just heat it up in hot water. Great stuff. Plastic powder. With a chemical that melts it into the plastic of the chin spoiler. Just use fiber glass cloth to reinforce It on the back side.put plastic powder on both sides of the fiberglass cloth and it's inside the plastic.if you do it right you will hardly see the crack. the front. You can even fill in missing pieces
Ordered some Plastex with fibreglass mat, Thanks
Be sure to cut the groove on the backside of the plastic to make room for the powder. Like the video only you don't have to do it on the front. So you can get away without paint work.
I just use ABS plumbing cement, which is nothing but the same plastic and a couple of solvents.
Fairings are literally made of the same stuff as drainpipes.
For a crack like this, I would definitely reinforce with fiberglass.
Plastex is awesome for fairing tabs etc, you will have good results Krusty. And as Giantkiller mentions, use a dremel and cut a V when joining 2 pieces of fairing for example. One thing Plastex says to do is have the liquid in the dropper, and pick up some powder, reapply etc. Too laborious, now I just pour some powder into the crack or V, and drop the liquid on top, soaks through the powder and sets beautifully,
When I got back from the WCR I took the front fender off of my black bike and made molds to repair the missing lower tabs on the front fender of my yellow bike.Once again it worked well.I also tried my black fender on my yellow bike.I think it looks better black.
Finished product
Fixing my chin fairing is next.
I agree Travis, looks good in black.
Joe
Plastex works quite well, I have noticed one more crack which I'll look at repairing but it's underneath the heat shielding.
So when I take off the shielding it's gonna fall apart and not be reusable, so what can I use as a replacement?
I've seen thin fibreglass mat with foil and sticky, Will this be enough?
Cheers
Alan
I just watched the videos on both the Plastex and the Plastifix websites. Essentially identical from what I saw.
What is a practical yield from the volume of material in a basic starter kit, which Plastifix lists as being 30g of powder.
For example, how many missing tabs for the air scoops or on the rear panels could be totally replaced with the 30g?
I bought the proffesional size kit of plastifix.it comes with 150 grams,75 grams of white powder and 75 grams of black powder and a large bottle of plasticizer,three molding blocks for $132.00.Ive created several tabs and repaired several and I haven't made a dent in the bottles.It would make dozens of tabs.even thirty grams should make several.
Some repairs on my daughters 250 ninja.
They were done with abs plumbing pipe disolved in MEK to make a paste then v grooved the back and layer in.
After it set I v grooved the front and filled. When it hardend up I smoothed it out.
It is not perfect but she will paint something over the repair.
What she painted on last year's repair.