Well, if you've read my other posts, you know I'm neck deep in mods/resto mode.
I had a set of gold monoblock calipers set aside for the FJ, but last year the blue's seized up on my Venture/Max and rather than bother ripping them down in the middle of the season, I just dropped the gold's I had on the shelf on the Venture/Max.
Cruising ebay for a while now, I ran across a set of golds that seemed in decent shape and at least weren't "stupid priced", so I grabbed them:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_03_03_19_11_32_57_0.jpeg)
Should clean up nicely. Paid 140 Cad out the door. That might seem a touch high, but I had to pay taxes on it since it was a Canadian seller (shop). I wasn't going to get out of it any cheaper bringing anything in from the 'States either, after shipping, duties, taxes and exchange rates.
Then, my "OCD" started nagging at me. "monoblocks on the front and stocker on the rear? It's gonna look stoooopid......pick, pick, pick.......nag, nag, nag....."
Arrgghhh! OK then, R1 rear caliper it is:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_03_03_19_11_32_57_1.jpeg)
That did come out of the 'states, but only tipped the scales to 50 bucks CAD. 20 bucks USD, plus exchange and shipping.
OK, so it's not gold and it's not going to just bolt on. The gold part is easily handled and between the lathe, mill and spool gun, the bracket is something I can fix to mount to the FJ in it's "underslung" orientation. I woudl have bought an FZ1 caliper, but they're all fairly overpriced from what I could find. I've got lots of swingarm/rear wheel fabrication going on anyways, so this is just an easy addition. I'll either rework the R1 or FZ1 brackets I have, or I'll just make a sand mold of what I need and cast a new one and go from there.
I've got a 14mm Master cylinder out there on my parts shelves somewhere, purchased about a year and a half ago and never got around to installing it. It's a yammy with an adjustable lever, but can't remember what it came from. I can't swear to it, but I think it was an R6. Oldtimers setting in I guess...:)
Under slung back R-1 calipers get's the chicks
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/49_13_12_09_8_22_49.jpeg)
To get my front/back buttons to match, I sanded and polished the outside and used spray paint on the inside.
I was warned against removing the buttons, IIRC something about problems getting them to seal and hold pressure when the buttons were re-installed.
A tab was needed for the brake stay arm.
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 03, 2019, 01:54:36 PM
Under slung back R-1 calipers get's the chicks
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/49_13_12_09_8_22_49.jpeg)
To get my front/back buttons to match, I sanded and polished the outside and used spray paint on the inside.
I was warned against removing the buttons, IIRC something about problems getting them to seal and hold pressure when the buttons were re-installed.
A tab was needed for the brake stay arm.
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
Cool.
You're a little more "polished" than I am, I'll be staying with the gold.
;)
I'll either weld the tab on or cast a new bracket, haven't decided which yet. If I go with a casting it won't happen until summer, I need to work outside with the aluminum smelt furnace. I could do it in the shop, I just prefer to do the stuff with lots of fire outside....
:shok:
As I understand it, you can remove the buttons. The problem is the proprietary seal behind them that, to my understanding, you can't buy. I also seem to recall something about the threading being a biotch to get apart without galling. I wouldn't doubt it's not a heat shrink fit as well.
I'm going to have a set of leftover blue's on the shelf that are pretty corroded. I might give them a try to see how difficult it is....for curiosity's sake if nothing else....
:)
Ah, decisions, decisions:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_12_03_19_6_45_59_2.jpeg)
Or:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_12_03_19_6_46_01_3.jpeg)
;)
Hmm, I think you should stay away from riding upside down, the brakes work provide any stopping power with the wheel in the air :biggrin:
Mind you, the black one looks sooo much better IMO - very tasty :good2:
Who needs the handle i use my feet when i brake i have thick soled boots tough.
[/url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmIZd8C-oOA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmIZd8C-oOA)[url]
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 03, 2019, 01:54:36 PM
Under slung back R-1 calipers get's the chicks
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/49_13_12_09_8_22_49.jpeg)
To get my front/back buttons to match, I sanded and polished the outside and used spray paint on the inside.
I was warned against removing the buttons, IIRC something about problems getting them to seal and hold pressure when the buttons were re-installed.
A tab was needed for the brake stay arm.
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
How does that rim work with no spokes Pat. :biggrin:
well crap.
R1 rear caliper came today.
Problem is, the R1 caliper bracket is too small for the FZR1000 disc. The FZ1 bracket is large enough for the FZR1000 disc;
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_13_03_19_2_43_32_0.jpeg)
but the lugs are too far apart to fit the R1 caliper:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_13_03_19_2_43_32_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_13_03_19_2_43_32_1.jpeg)
Unlike a lot of guys, I like a powerful rear brake. I learned to use it when racing when I was a pup and it's something I've always used on the street. I use it for everything from settling the chassis, to tightening a line to reducing braking distance. I'm used to a powerful rear brake and that's what I need for my riding style.
So, I'm left with a few options here I guess. I could make a new bracket alltogether, but that's a butt load of work that I don't feel like doing right now. I could try and modify the R1 bracket, but i'd have to cut it in half and add another section. Or i could lop off the rear caliper bolt "ear", weld it back on in the right spot for the R1 caliper and call it done.
Or I could wait for an FZ1 rear caliper to show up at a hf decent price, but that seems unlikley because, for some reason, most sellers seem to want a premium for them for some reason....
Won't the R1 disc fit the FZR wheel?
Quote from: ZOA NOM on March 13, 2019, 05:49:20 PM
Won't the R1 disc fit the FZR wheel?
Don't have one to try.
Hey GW - spotted these on eBay
This first one doesn't seem like a bad buy, even at the Buy it Now price !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9)
There are quite a few available in the USA - must be worth putting a bid on one of them :good2:
Quote from: Millietant on March 14, 2019, 01:15:39 AM
Hey GW - spotted these on eBay
This first one doesn't seem like a bad buy, even at the Buy it Now price !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9)
There are quite a few available in the USA - must be worth putting a bid on one of them :good2:
Yep, I seen them. The thing is, after exchange and shipping, even the $33 one is going to cost me close to $100.
Or I can take a little time and modify what I have here already and not have to put out any cash other than a bit of welding wire...
Man I wish I was a machinist. Then I would get some of the crazy ideas out my head, put to metal. :wacko3:
Thanks for doing all the cool things you are doing.
Oh yeah here's my Gixxer brake set up. Nothing as cool as you are doing
Quote from: giantkiller on March 14, 2019, 09:28:54 AM
Man I wish I was a machinist. Then I would get some of the crazy ideas out my head, put to metal. :wacko3:
Thanks for doing all the cool things you are doing.
Oh yeah here's my Gixxer brake set up. Nothing as cool as you are doing
Actually, I'm not a machinist either. I've been a gearhead my whole life and it's taken that long to accumulate the tools I have.
Cars, trucks, bikes, boats, airplanes, helicopters, tractors, barstools, etc.
As long as it's got an engine, I'm in!
;)
I wanted to match the clutch lever/master to the new brake master. So I found an FJR clutch master going cheap. But there was a catch:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_14_03_19_5_18_40_0.jpeg)
Bent lever. No other damage apparent. Classic "bike fell over" type of lever damage. I'm good with it though, a bent lever gets me a cheap purchase price.
So, with some patience and a little heat:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_14_03_19_5_18_42_1.jpeg)
Good as new!
And most importantly; cheap!
:)
The clutch switch was another problem. The FJR uses a different switch with a different plug in. A quick test with the meter shows which two of the fjr's pins give the clutch signal the FJ is looking for. Then I simply saw off the plastic surrounding the pins, solder on a couple blades and the FJ harness plugs right in.
Good to go!
Lol!
;)
The bent lever had a kinda cool curl to it.
Joe
Quote from: Tuned forks on March 14, 2019, 10:25:43 PM
The bent lever had a kinda cool curl to it.
Joe
When I was a kid all of my dirt bikes had that style of handle.
Quote from: great white on March 14, 2019, 07:03:38 AM
Quote from: Millietant on March 14, 2019, 01:15:39 AM
Hey GW - spotted these on eBay
This first one doesn't seem like a bad buy, even at the Buy it Now price !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9)
There are quite a few available in the USA - must be worth putting a bid on one of them :good2:
Yep, I seen them. The thing is, after exchange and shipping, even the $33 one is going to cost me close to $100.
Or I can take a little time and modify what I have here already and not have to put out any cash other than a bit of welding wire...
Shipping costs over there are something I can't fathom - I bought a pair of brake discs from China and their shipping charge to the UK was only $20 (Canadian).
But, if you have the toys, why not use them :good2:
Quote from: Millietant on March 15, 2019, 03:45:08 AM
Quote from: great white on March 14, 2019, 07:03:38 AM
Quote from: Millietant on March 14, 2019, 01:15:39 AM
Hey GW - spotted these on eBay
This first one doesn't seem like a bad buy, even at the Buy it Now price !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-05-YAMAHA-FZ1-Rear-Brake-Caliper/163498455550?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D6f05cb32e577494e876ac00d28e07a41%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D323679416280%26itm%3D163498455550&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA-FZ1-FZ-1000-FAZER-REAR-BRAKES-CALIPER-MASTER-01-02-03-04-05-3/323679416280?hash=item4b5ccbefd8:g:br8AAOSw7MNcV1NA)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Yamaha-FZS1-FZ1-FZ-1-FZS1000-1000-Fazer-Rear-Disk-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-01/192848660665?hash=item2ce6ad08b9)
There are quite a few available in the USA - must be worth putting a bid on one of them :good2:
Yep, I seen them. The thing is, after exchange and shipping, even the $33 one is going to cost me close to $100.
Or I can take a little time and modify what I have here already and not have to put out any cash other than a bit of welding wire...
Shipping costs over there are something I can't fathom - I bought a pair of brake discs from China and their shipping charge to the UK was only $20 (Canadian).
But, if you have the toys, why not use them :good2:
A lot of the problem is the exchange rate. Anything out of the states and the shipping charges are in usd. At roughly 70 cents on the dollar, it gets expensive pretty fast.
I don't even want to think a out GBP.....
Hey, with the low exchange rate, now's a good time for you to buy things from the UK :yes: (except that everything is far more expensive here anyway than it is over there, regardless of the exchange rate).
Regarding the back brake, just wondered if you'd come across Marc Rittner's work on his FJ - he's fitted a R1 caliper to a FZ1 mount on his Thunderace rear wheel/swinging arm conversion.
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
Marc's a first rate bike tinkerer - he's active and well known on a few forums and also one of the members of the team that's broken the 200mph barrier on an Aprilia RSV Mille ("The Punisher").
Quote from: Millietant on March 15, 2019, 08:49:45 AM
Hey, with the low exchange rate, now's a good time for you to buy things from the UK :yes: (except that everything is far more expensive here anyway than it is over there, regardless of the exchange rate).
Regarding the back brake, just wondered if you'd come across Marc Rittner's work on his FJ - he's fitted a R1 caliper to a FZ1 mount on his Thunderace rear wheel/swinging arm conversion.
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
Marc's a first rate bike tinkerer - he's active and well known on a few forums and also one of the members of the team that's broken the 200mph barrier on an Aprilia RSV Mille ("The Punisher").
Still too crazy to buy in the uk. I used to make a trip there once a year for work and would bring stuff back in my luggage. Always got a weird look at the airport when they would pull out a CBX750 headlight or a set of nc24 rotors...
I have seen that page. Problem is the R1 bracket isn't long enough for the fzr1000 rotor. So it's buy an fz1 caliper to fit the fz1 bracket, modify the fz/r1 bracket or buy an r1 rotor.
Least expensive of those options is modify the FZ1 bracket to carry the R1 caliper.....
Quote from: great white on March 15, 2019, 12:29:19 PM
Quote from: Millietant on March 15, 2019, 08:49:45 AM
Hey, with the low exchange rate, now's a good time for you to buy things from the UK :yes: (except that everything is far more expensive here anyway than it is over there, regardless of the exchange rate).
Regarding the back brake, just wondered if you'd come across Marc Rittner's work on his FJ - he's fitted a R1 caliper to a FZ1 mount on his Thunderace rear wheel/swinging arm conversion.
http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/MarcRittner3.htm)
Marc's a first rate bike tinkerer - he's active and well known on a few forums and also one of the members of the team that's broken the 200mph barrier on an Aprilia RSV Mille ("The Punisher").
Still too crazy to buy in the uk. I used to make a trip there once a year for work and would bring stuff back in my luggage. Always got a weird look at the airport when they would pull out a CBX750 headlight or a set of nc24 rotors...
I have seen that page. Problem is the R1 bracket isn't long enough for the fzr1000 rotor. So it's buy an fz1 caliper to fit the fz1 bracket, modify the fz/r1 bracket or buy an r1 rotor.
Least expensive of those options is modify the FZ1 bracket to carry the R1 caliper.....
Yeah, I'd guess there must a few different R1 calipers - from what Marc did, his R1 caliper fitted directly onto the FZ1 bracket - he just welded on the boss for the torque arm mounting (but I can see from your photo's that your R1 caliper is nowhere near fitting the FZ1 bracket).
Can't wait to see the finished set-up - I wish I had your equipment and skills, it would make tinkering a whole lot more enjoyable. I reckon I might live in the garage altogether :yes:
Quote from: great white on March 13, 2019, 03:54:47 PM
Unlike a lot of guys, I like a powerful rear brake. I learned to use it when racing when I was a pup and it's something I've always used on the street. I use it for everything from settling the chassis, to tightening a line to reducing braking distance. I'm used to a powerful rear brake and that's what I need for my riding style.
Have you considered just getting used to a different feel. Pretty much any other bike on the planet won't have a rear like the FJ,
nothing has a rear brake like an FJ. But, you can only use so much and the harder you're braking the less you can use, to the point where the distance taken for a maximum rate stop with or without back brake becomes the same.
I have a standard FJ and one with a 600RR brake. Trail braking hard into a bumpy corner at speed with grippy pads and the brakes right up to temperature is scary stuff on a standard rear brake, breathing on the pedal is enough to lock the wheel up momentarily on a bump (which is one moment too many).
I find the smaller rotor has plenty of power but waaay better modulation. As with all brakes, the right pads help too.
Just a thought outside the mods box but I think I know the answer....
.....keep cutting, grinding and welding!
Noel
The use of the rear brake at track speeds requires a very high level of skill. I struggled quite a bit and eventually abandoned the technique on my GSXR 750R. My new GSXR1000R has all the high tech gadgets so I might try again to understand how to do it effectively once the track season starts again. For street riding at sane speeds it helps with stopping distance but again, practice is required. Stomping on it in an emergency might not give you the results you want.
Just my opinion but I agree with not trying to significantly increase its effectiveness. The last thing I want on the street is a sudden or graby rear brake. Front brakes are a completely different story. Properly set up with good pads (I like Vesrah RJLXX) I can modulate much better with my finger tips than my foot.
Quote from: ribbert on March 16, 2019, 07:56:10 AM
Quote from: great white on March 13, 2019, 03:54:47 PM
Unlike a lot of guys, I like a powerful rear brake. I learned to use it when racing when I was a pup and it's something I've always used on the street. I use it for everything from settling the chassis, to tightening a line to reducing braking distance. I'm used to a powerful rear brake and that's what I need for my riding style.
Have you considered just getting used to a different feel. Pretty much any other bike on the planet won't have a rear like the FJ, nothing has a rear brake like an FJ. But, you can only use so much and the harder you're braking the less you can use, to the point where the distance taken for a maximum rate stop with or without back brake becomes the same.
I have a standard FJ and one with a 600RR brake. Trail braking hard into a bumpy corner at speed with grippy pads and the brakes right up to temperature is scary stuff on a standard rear brake, breathing on the pedal is enough to lock the wheel up momentarily on a bump (which is one moment too many).
I find the smaller rotor has plenty of power but waaay better modulation. As with all brakes, the right pads help too.
Just a thought outside the mods box but I think I know the answer....
.....keep cutting, grinding and welding!
Noel
It's all about what you're used to and how you use it.
I'm used to a powerful rear brake and know how to modulate one. It takes a light touch, but that's how my brain to foot interface is programmed. Where most guys would have the rear brake locked up and the arse end skittering around, I'm just motoring on by.
Same with the front brakes; I like them to come on hard and quick. Probably what most guys would consider "wooden" and immediate. I developed a touch for brakes like that a long time ago (30+ years ago or so). Even on bumpy or broken roads, I can modulate "fast" brakes. I probably can credit that to running on local beat up tracks when I was younger and racing. Well, I called it racing. My bro's back then would probably call it turning bikes into balls of scrap!
Turned out I was better at building them than racing them and eventually gave racing up to build/work on bikes for others and settled for street riding on twisty back country roads. Much safer, as opposed to me going 10/10ths at the track, which was probably more like 13/10ths the way I was going. Much less expensive than "wadding" a bike every weekend too! LOL!
I was the same with almost everything that required a light touch. Running aircraft hydraulic carts and pressurization rigs used to give a lot of guys fits trying to transition from "on to off" or creeping up to a very specific number, but the "feel" just came natural to me. Same with running fuel nozzle test rigs, oil analysis rigs, machining, etc...
I call myself a 90/10 emergency braker. I don't go over 90% braking on the front, to keep a bit in reserve. The other 10% comes from the rear brake, which I modulate easily. Without the rear brake, I'm leaving 10% on the table. Not to mention, if you're all on the front brake, you're in a bit of a pickle (chassis wise) if anything else happens and you need to change your maneuver. If I have to go into "my reserve" on the front brake, I'm auto-programmed to reduce the rear in that case, but then I'm commited to braking only and not much latitude for anything else should the situation change. I just don't think about modulating, it's automatic for me. Same for if the rear starts to "dance". My brain is just auto-programmed to do what it needs with the right foot to bring it back in line. Whether that means less brake, or more.
As previously mentioned, I also use the rear brake for things like settling the chassis in mid corner or straight line, as well as using it to tighten up a cornering line. As with stopping, it's auto-programmed into my brain after all these years. I feel the contact patch and react to what it needs to handle whatever "funk" is going on. I've even been known to tap the rear brake to regain traction on a spinning rear during a "drag race". Just a tap to allow the rubber to grab again, without having to let off the throttle. It's not an easy maneuver to get right, but it works for me.
Everyone likes something different because everyone needs something different. I like my brakes fast and touchy, where a light touch or two finger graze brings them on "right now". I guess mostly because I just have a "feel" for them and it's easy for me to modulate them right at the break over point.
I should also note that I don't ride track speeds on the street. That would just be foolish. I'm far too old and heal far too slowly these days to push much past 75-80%. But I still use the rear brake in all the above scenarios in street riding. Seems silly to me to leave capability on the table, no matter how fast you are riding.
;)
Chop up one FZ1 rear brake bracket and one R1 bracket:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_17_03_19_6_16_31_0.jpeg)
A little shaping and fitting and:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_17_03_19_6_16_33_1.jpeg)
Tomorrow, V out the weld lines, weld it up and some finish shaping.
Good to go!
:)
Welded up:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_18_03_19_8_47_48_0.jpeg)
Looks a little ugly right now. Thats fresh off the welding table. Still needs some cleanup and shaping. The front welds are about looks as much as strength, so I'll smooth those for appearance sake. The weld on the rear of the bracket I burned in hot and deep without thought to its appearance (ironically, it looks nicer than the welde on the front! Lol!). The rear weld penetrated nearly all the way through and will carry most of the structural loads, so I can afford to shave the front welds down and make it "pretty".
:)
I had to space the wheel to the LH a little bit when doing final alignments and lost the caliper center:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_18_03_19_8_47_51_1.jpeg)
Its off roughly a mm. Its close enough as is, but I may shave down the caliper bracket a MM to center the disc in the caliper. As it's an opposing piston caliper, technically I don't need to center the disc, but it will eat at me if I don't....;)
As expected, an elegant solution. Looking forward to the finished look. Well done.
Oh no, what have I done to myself:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_18_03_19_3_26_25.jpeg)
320MM rotors from an SP1. I knew I had a set hanging around, but I ran across them while digging for something else and couldn't resist dropping them on the FJ wheel to have a look.
That would go on soooo easily with such a super simple and easy to make adapter. Then an adapter plate to move the calipers...hmmm, or maybe some radial 6 pots on "remanufactured" lowers ..... :wacko1:
So, you do all this work to end up with spindly 41mm stanchion tube damper rod forks and a 15mm axle on a 500lb+ bike capable of 150mph.
You do know that the *entire* USD front end of the '91-93 FZR1000 is P&P, correct?
Cartridge forks, check
R-1 calipers, check
Lighter/stiffer 17mm hollow axle, check
17 x 3.5" front rim, check
320 mm rotors, check.
A front fender that you can actually still buy, check.
Chicks hanging around your bike....check.
Is that what's on your FJ Pat? I keep reading this USD term bandied about. What does it mean and how does it improve the riding experience?
Joe
Hey Joe, USD = Upside Down forks.
It's not just one feature but the synergistic effect of multiple improvements that makes USD's superior to the FJ's oem conventional forks. They are just a flat out better design. Time marches on.
You forgot to mention the chicks...
...oops, spoke to soon!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 18, 2019, 07:00:49 PM
So, you do all this work to end up with spindly 41mm stanchion tube damper rod forks and a 15mm axle on a 500lb+ bike capable of 150mph.
You do know that the *entire* USD front end of the '91-93 FZR1000 is P&P, correct?
Cartridge forks, check
R-1 calipers, check
Lighter/stiffer 17mm hollow axle, check
17 x 3.5" front rim, check
320 mm rotors, check.
A front fender that you can actually still buy, check.
Chicks hanging around your bike....check.
Nope, not interested in inverted forks.
More like 600 lbs and 140 mph. It's not like it will ever be going anywhere near that speed anyways. Hell, it probably won't even see much north of 80 mph (130 kph)...
Finding an FZR1000 front end is not an option around here. Hell, finding a complete FZR to buy isn't an option around here. I think I've seen a grand total of one in the last two decades...
41mm isn't exactly "spindly" either. Maybe in comparison to more modern tackle, but I could care less about that. When I learned to flog a bike around a track, only the most serious and well heeled riders had anything close to 41MM up front. 41MM feels plenty planted for my use. I know what it's going to do and when it's going to do it. Try running a 70's RD350 down the straight topping out at a around 110 and you'll never complain about stock FJ forks ever again! Speed wobbles and tank slappers to make you mess hour fruit of the looms! Lol!
And like I said, i'm not in to inverted forks. No offense intended to anyone running them, but they just don't "look right" on an FJ to my eye. My bike has to look right to me as well as run right. It's all part of the way I want MY bike. Wheels, brakes, swingarm (as long as it's not to radical or single sided), slipons etc you can get away with and keep the 80's superbike look. Inverted forks are from a different generation and spoil that "80's feel" for me.
Emulators and springs will be going in at a minimum. I may even make my own set of ems. I've done it before, it's not like it's a complicated piece.
If an FZ1 front end shows up, maybe. But we're back to the orginal FZR problem; I've never even seen one ride past around here, let alone up for parts. Ordering piecemeal via internet means it would likely cost more than buying a complete used R1! A swingarm? Not too bad, they come up pretty cheap from time to time because they typically don't get damaged in a crash. Forks are a different story; they usually take the brunt so when they do show up in decent/complete shape, they command a premium. Not to me tion shipping is a miller due to thier size.
Nah, FJ forks are just fine, thank you. If I luck across something better that I can afford, then; maybe.
:)