First of all, I've got all these parts lying around already from other projects so it costs me nothing more than some time in the shop. No need to comment on "why" or "just go buy XX". This is as much for the fun of making stuff as much as installing a better rear shock.
My 89 still wears it's original shock. I can feel that it's pretty much "sacked", but it's still somewhat ok for the infrequent blast I do on the FJ from time to time.
But I'm sure I can build better. I just don't want to spend a grand on something aftermarket. I'm in Canada, so after excahnge and shipping, you're not likely to get anything worthwhile under a cool G CAD.
I've got more than a couple CBR600RR/900RR shocks lying around. Leftovers from my VF750F project:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_3_02_54_0.jpeg)
Honda actually put pretty good quality shocks on their RR series bikes. But with the reservoir mounted as it is, there's no way that shock is going to fit in an FJ chassis:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_57_0.jpeg)
900 on the left, 600 on the right. They both want to occupy the space where the battery sits in the FJ.
But the upside to the RR shocks is they are pretty high quality units. Machined aluminum bodies, quality internals, roughly the same length as the FJ shock and the mounts on each end are the same as the 3CV (bolt on top, clevis on bottom). The RR shocks are also re-buildable, re-valvable, and parts are readily available. They are one of the few OEM shocks that are actually worth rebuilding and tuning.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_58_5.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_58_6.jpeg)
Nice stuff in there for a stocker.
They use that stupid tapered spring, but all I have to do is spin out a couple adapters on the lathe and I can use any straight spring I want (more rate choices and more reasonable prices). Re-valving is just re-valving and these shocks offer both adjustable compression and rebound.
Still, that piggy-back reservoir means you can't get it in an FJ. Right?
Well, maybe not:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_57_2.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_57_1.jpeg)
If nothing else, that will fit in the FJ upper mount now. LOL!
Actually, I had chopped up an RR shock a long time ago for another project. I just never finished it. But now I'm going to revisit it. I'll weld a boss/plate over that hole in both the shock body and the reservoir and use a hose to connect them. I've also got a couple junk F4I shocks with the remote reservoir, but I'm thinking they may only donate the connecting hose. That may affect the adjustments on the reservoir, but only one way to find out.
;)
I also want to kept the remote preload adjuster feature of the FJ. I don't want to be crawling under the bike with a wrench to add preload. In fact, I don't want to have to crawl under the bike to adjust anything. I'm just too old and broken up to want to be doing that any more. A remote reservoir and a remote preload adjuster would certainly fill the bill.
So luckily, I also have an old ZG1400 shock lying around:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_57_4.jpeg)
Overall, it's nothing really remarkable (typical mass produced stuff) and it's too long to use in the FJ anyways. But; it has a nifty hydraulic collar with remote preload adjuster. It just slides right off the body:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_57_3.jpeg)
It's juuuuust a hair to small in the ID to fit on the RR shock body at the spring mount collar position. But a pass on the lathe should bore it out to juuuust the right size to fit the RR shock. It will take up space in the spring space, but if it works I can ditch the RR adjuster and gain back that space.
Having my own lathe is going to be the glue that lets me fit all this together properly.
Whether or not it works out the way I think it will once it's on the bike might be a different story......
I've got lots of other projects for the FJ on the go, so this particular one may take a while. But watch this space for more developments. It certainly looks "do-able" at this point.
:)
You certainly are not afraid to modify stuff and take things apart. I've been watching your wheel thread for advice as I'd like to complete the same this winter. Now you're disassembling shocks, cutting, adding, who knows what else? Your threads are entertaining.
Joe
Boy oh boy, I would love to have a remote preload adjuster on my Penske shock.
What is the ID needed to slip over the shock body and what diameter spring does the ZG1400 use?
I'm aware Ohlin has a remote preload adjuster for their shocks, but *I think* they use a cable system to turn the adjuster, not a hydraulic like you have.
I'm not sure the Ohlin is compatible with the Penske...I've been meaning to call Traxxion Dynanics and check.
My 8987 has a remote reservoir with high speed and low speed compression adjustment.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 28, 2019, 07:33:29 PM
Boy oh boy, I would love to have a remote preload adjuster on my Penske shock.
What is the ID needed to slip over the shock body and what diameter spring does the ZG1400 use?
I'm aware Ohlin has a remote preload adjuster for their shocks, but *I think* they use a cable system to turn the adjuster, not a hydraulic like you have.
I'm not sure the Ohlin is compatible with the Penske...I've been meaning to call Traxxion Dynanics and check.
My 8987 has a remote reservoir with high speed and low speed compression adjustment.
Don't remember off the top of my head. I'll try to get some measurements tomorrow.
For me, it doesn't matter. The zg spring is the wrong length, I'll be making custom spring collars and the adjuster will have to be bored/reamed a bit as well.
This coukd all just turn into a pile of junk when I'm done, or it could turn out to be something pretty cool...:)
Quote from: Tuned forks on February 28, 2019, 07:09:57 PM
You certainly are not afraid to modify stuff and take things apart. I've been watching your wheel thread for advice as I'd like to complete the same this winter. Now you're disassembling shocks, cutting, adding, who knows what else? Your threads are entertaining.
Joe
Probably shouldn't mention the Venturecruise system I'm adding to the FJ then:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_8_57_52_0.jpeg)
;)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 28, 2019, 07:33:29 PM
Boy oh boy, I would love to have a remote preload adjuster on my Penske shock.
Wilbers do an electronic adjustable shock conversion, including pre-load adjustment, for $900 (you have to provide an ESA donor shock for the electronics).
Ohlins do a universal electronic version ( I think
without pre-load adj ) for $3500!!
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on March 01, 2019, 06:24:38 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 28, 2019, 07:33:29 PM
Boy oh boy, I would love to have a remote preload adjuster on my Penske shock.
Wilbers do an electronic adjustable shock conversion, including pre-load adjustment, for $900 (you have to provide an ESA donor shock for the electronics).
Ohlins do a universal electronic version ( I think without pre-load adj ) for $3500!!
Noel
Holy ouch batman! On both counts!
I don't think I have much more than a hundred bucks in all the parts you've seen pictures of in this thread so far.
Maybe another hundred for a proper spring, some aluminum to make the collars and some oil. Then I just have to rework the ports and shim stacks (I have lots of shims in the drawers already).
Now, I my not be a "suspension guru"that can squeeze that last "10/10ths" out of my rig, but I'm good enough to get 8-9/10ths out of it. Which is, quite frankly, above the level I ride at these days anyways.
So glad I have a lathe and a 220V mig with spool gun at my disposal. Was well worth buying them so many years ago. The price tags hurt at the time, but I've used them so many times over the years on everything from office chairs to custom automotive stuff that I'm sure I've gotten my money's worth out of them.
For example, I like to play racing sims games (Forza mostly) when I have some time to waste and wanted a "racing chair". Prices were absolutely foolish for store bought stuff. Anywhere from 500 to 1000 for what was, essentially, an office chair done up to look like a car seat. That was not counting the price of a sim racing wheel or even a built in mount on the chair to hold a wheel. I wasn't spending that much on a "game accessory" that I would use once in a blue moon, so I bought an office chair at the local thrift store that was in decent shape and built this:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_01_03_19_8_35_38.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_01_03_19_8_37_11.jpeg)
Total cost? 20 bucks, not including the wheel and pedals. Those were bought used for 40 bucks. The chair was 12, the steel came from my scrap pile, I had the black spraypiant left over from other projects and the wheels underthe pedals were about 8 bucks. The rest was my own labor on a lazy weekend afternoon. So 60 bucks with the wheel vs 500-1000 for a ready made product.
Saved enough on that one project to pay for 50-75% of the welder alone.
I've always said you can never go wrong buying tools and learning how to do things for yourself. Assuming you actually take the time to learn to do things the right way that is.....;)
Thanks Noel, I do recall reading about the Ohlin uber $$$ shock, but not Wilber's.
I'm happy with my Penske. Old school (like me) on the fly I can reach down with my left hand and turn a knob and tighten or loosen up compression.
Setting the shock spring preload...uuugh. A different matter.
If the measurements work out with the ZG1400 collar and my Penske, I'm heading to FleaBay.
Looks like 50mm:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_01_03_19_6_32_32.jpeg)
Ok, thanks! Much appreciated.
Thank you for giving me the idea, or at least reminding me how much I dislike getting down on my creaky knees and fussing with that preload collar.
If 50mm will get me over the shock body, making the spring perch for the spring will be easy.
Last question: Approx how much adjustment range does the hydraulic spring collar have? 3/4"?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 01, 2019, 07:58:56 PM
Ok, thanks! Much appreciated.
Thank you for giving me the idea, or at least reminding me how much I dislike getting down on my creaky knees and fussing with that preload collar.
If 50mm will get me over the shock body, making the spring perch for the spring will be easy.
Last question: Approx how much adjustment range does the hydraulic spring collar have? 3/4"?
Couldn't tell ya. It needs to be on the shock and under spring pressure to work properly.
Ok, thanks again!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 01, 2019, 02:32:47 PM
..... but not Wilber's.
It's not a universal unit like Ohlins, it's a replacement for BMW's with ESA suspension. I was looking at the possibility of fitting one to the FJ. The canbus wiring looks like it will be the biggest hurdle.
Noel
Not a lot of progress today, but roughed out the adapter for the hose attachment point:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_03_03_19_5_38_35_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_03_03_19_5_38_35_1.jpeg)
It's literally just a block of aluminum machined to the rough shape right now. Still to do is drill the fluid passage, then thread for the hose fittings and finally, welded to the shock body. There's no real mechanical force there, other than the fluid, so it just needs to be solid and a "fluid tight" weld.
Then it's on to do something similar to the reservoir end and connect the two via hose. The revervoir will be easier, it basically just needs a "block" off plate. The shock body i wanted angled down and away from the frame mount and spring.
Then it's work out the springing and valving.
Yeah....that sounds simple, right?
;)
Toying with where to mount the remote reservoir:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_06_03_19_12_25_19_1.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_06_03_19_12_25_18_0.jpeg)
I'm leaning towards pic #1.
I could mount it further up and back, but the shape of the "stub" where the valve is puts it (and the connecting hose) right over the rear tire. It's high enough that it will never hit, but adjusting the valve would be difficult and it would be just pelted with road debris, water, etc. Down by the footpeg support it's easier to get to, looks better and I can shield it a bit with a hugger fender or something similar.
The LH side is not really an option, with the chain being right there.
The preload I'm thinking I might put in the FJ location under the side cover. I'd still have to remove the side cover, but that's still must easier than crawling under the bike with a wrench....
So, a little time on the lathe:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_06_03_19_2_28_37_0.jpeg)
And:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_06_03_19_2_28_37_1.jpeg)
I present, for your pleasure, the hydraulic remote preload adjuster CBR/RR FJ1200 shock.
:good2:
I had to take a little less than 1mm off the body, which means the casting thickness is a little less than .5mm what it was. The shock body at that point is still a good 3 times as thick as the the lower body that is screwed in to it, so no worries. The the ZG adjuster went on with just a very slight friction fit. It installs an removes by hand, but you have to put just a little bit of force into it to slide. Perfect. Just the way I wanted it. Nice and tight so no movement or rattles.
You can see just a little gap where the adjuster meets the shock body at the top:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_06_03_19_2_28_37_2.jpeg)
You can see there's a "tab" on the top of the ZG piece. That's to locate the hose in the correct orientation once installed. I haven't figured that out at this point, but once I get it positioned properly the shock body will get a little file work to make a recess to receive the locating tab and then the adjuster will sit flush with the shock body at the top.
The ZG adjuster takes up 37.5 mm of space where the spring would sit, but the CBR/RR manual adjuster takes up 39 mm (both at their lowest settings). So once I get the adapter rings made to hold standard straight coil springs, it should all work out about even. I might loose a MM or so of spring length, but I'll just order spring the right length and rate for that. Well worth it for the remote adjuster ability.
Coming along nicely, if not a little slow. I'm splitting time right now between the FZ1 swingarm project and the shock. When I get tired of working on one, I switch to the other.
:mail1:
I think it was Pat that was asking about the stroke of the adjuster.
I took it all apart to clean the internals and give it a fresh fill of dot 3. Once it was back together it moved freely, so I slowly ran it out to its travel limit to make sure it would stop before blowing out the piston seals.
It has an 11mm stroke, same as the difference between the high and low steps on the cbr/rr manual adjuster.
:)
Ok, thanks again, 11mm spring preload compression should work ok.....Now, I just need to get down and dirty to measure the shock body on my Penske to see if it's close to 50mm ID of the collar.
I cannibalized an old F4i shock I had in the scrap pile for it's hose to remote mount the RR reservoir. The hose is going to change the behaviour of the damping (small ID hose compared to the open passage in a stock RR shock), but "custom" is often just another word for "compromise". So be it.
As I took it apart, I noted the ID of the f4i res looked to be the same as the rr.
Yep, the rr bladder/cap went in like it was meant to be there. That got me thinking maybe I could just use the f4i res on the RR shock body. That sure would save a lot of time and hassle.
But alas, as soon as I pulled out the damping valve and compared it to the RR, that plan was toast:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_07_03_19_7_53_38.jpeg)
The RR valve is a much more refined piece, you can clearly see the advances over the F4i valve.
So, back to today being a "welding day". For both the shock and swingarm projects...
Ugh, now that word "compromise" is grating on my nerves.
Trying to formulate a plan for a rigid connection between the reservoir and the shock body so I can maintain the passage area/volume. Probably end up with more shock oil volume if I work it out as it will be a longer tube than OEM mounting.
That's both a good and a bad thing.
Good: more oil means more heat capacity and a longer body connection means more potential to cool that fluid.
BAd: the longer it is, the more susceptible to vibration and cracking it will be.....not to mention severely limiting the mounting location options.
Went over and over it, no way to get away from using a remote hose.
Oh well, thats the way she goes...
Changed up from using the 600rr reservoir to using the one off the 1000rr:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_28_02_19_2_20_57_0.jpeg)
It fits better with the remote mounting option. Since the 1000rr sticks straight out the back of the shock, it means the rebound/damping valve is on the side instead of under the res:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_07_03_19_6_55_25_0.jpeg)
Muuuuch easier to get to the adjuster with it this way!
:)
I just cut the top off the 1000rr shock, then machined an Al plug (sized to the opening) with an offset threaded boss for the hose. Couple passes with the spool gun and:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_07_03_19_6_51_31_1.jpeg)
An unexpected bonus is the original shock top mount works great as a mount for the res! Lol!
But still a bit raw there. Some cleanup work and a spritz of semigloss black and it will look like it was cast as one piece.
Theres actually more weld there than I needed. I offset the boss to the bottom to help get rid of air traps when filling, But when I welded around the circumference of the plug, it looked funny to have weld on one side of the boss but not on the other. So I just fillet welded the other side (for looks mainly) and some shaping with the sander will make it look like one piece.
The part where the hose attaches is round, because it was originally the top of the shock body. It's functional as is, but I may cut the sides off and weld plates on there so it doesn't look like some kind of "accumulator" at that point. Dunno...this is prototype #1 so there could be lots of changes before I'm done.
Couldn't resist popping the bodywork back on for a quick look:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_07_03_19_6_55_26_1.jpeg)
I like it!
The brake caliper will be changed to an underslung monoblock, gold center cap.
Tomorrow, it's on to welding on the adapter block to the shock body and tapping for the hose. For the time being, I'll put the shock back together with one of the 800-odd lb springs I have lying around. I'll leave it like that for now so the bike is a "roller" and order a new spring of approriate rate. I'll have to dump some shock oil in there too, just to keep the internals lubricated. Valving and weight I'll sort out when I get the bike back on the road sometime next year.
So lets see here, there's one cbr600rr shock, one cbr1000rr shock, one gtr1400 shock and one cbr600f4i shock in there so far! Not bad for a bunch of parts that have been lying around taking up space for a couple years....lol!
There we go:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_08_03_19_6_43_10_0.jpeg)
Cbr600rr shock body, gtr1400 remote hydraulic adjuster and FI1200 spring. It's still a ways off from being done, but thats the bulk of it:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_08_03_19_6_43_12_1.jpeg)
Whats left to do:
Weld the plate over the opening in the shock body and tap for the reservoir hose, make a solid lower spring perch, fit and adjust the upper and lower mounting points, blow it all apart tidy it up and then a coat of paint, fill with fluid, charge the nitrogen and then the rest is all for the test riding.
I'll see what the stock FJ spring acts like and go from there. Supposedly a 1000-1100 lb spring, ut it's likely sacked after all these years. Still, I'll run it and see what I get. It didn't wallow or sack when I rode the bike last time, so maybe I'll get lucky.
The remote adjuster I think I will strip and have anodized gold like the shock reservoir, then mount it above:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_08_03_19_6_43_14_2.jpeg)
Coming along nicely!
:)
There we go, that will do:
I'll just weld two lugs to the top of the res body, drill and tap, and then bolt the remote preload adjuster down.
I'm sort of changing my mind to just painting the preload adjuster black like the remote res body and calling it a day. I'm thinking black will blend in much better and not make it look too "busy" in that area. The remote res can will stay the anodized gold though...will match the rotor center and the R1 gold dot calipers.
I've just about had it with your pics. My neck is sore!
Don't know what to tell ya, they're right side up when I load them, effed up when I go back to them.
Guess you just have to stop looking at them maybe?
:wacko3:
It's because you're taking the photos in portrait mode. You should turn the phone sideways so it captures the image in landscape mode. The ones you take that way upload correctly.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on March 09, 2019, 11:46:31 AM
It's because you're taking the photos in portrait mode. You should turn the phone sideways so it captures the image in landscape mode. The ones you take that way upload correctly.
Already tried that and it doesn't seem to matter. Same with flipping the picture, saving it and trying to upload it.
Sometimes uploads right, sometimes not.
Bloody apple.... :mad:
Ok, the top mounting bolt on the FJ just isn't going to work with the CBR bearing/bushing:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_09_03_19_6_40_08_5.jpeg)
The FJ bolt is just too big in diameter. The CBR is actually an eye end style bushing, which means it's hardened. No drilling that and honing means heat, which will kill the teflon insert inside the bushing assembly itself (assuming you can keep it from spinning while honing). Not to mention the mount on the FJ frame is much wider than the CBR bushing, which would mean spacers or bushings of some sort and high probability of bending the shock bolt in the middle after some miles are on it. There's also the problem of the holes in the frame mount being too large if I use the CBR bushing/bolt.
I could alter the FJ frame mount, but I'm always reluctant to modify the frame on any bike. Makes it difficult to go back to stock if I ever want to, which can be an issue if a modification goes south or just doesn't work out. Or, if I ever decide to put it back to stock to sell it.
Nope, I'll have to modify the shock itself. That just makes more sense to me. It's not like I haven't already chopped up that shock beyond recognition already! LOL!
The FJ shock has an internal bushing that rides in two teflon coated plain bearings. I press them out so I can reuse them. Then I remove the dust seals, snap ring and CBR bushing from the CBR shock.
Now I've got all the parts that I need to make an adapter for the shock body.
The CBR shock has an offset shoulder in the bushing hole so the bearing can be pressed in and then a snap ring installed. But I need to make the whole mount wider. So I spin up a chunk of steel that holds the teflon bushings and fits the cbr shock hole. I stepped one side of the adapter down rather than boring out the shock body. It keeps the strength in the aluminum body and the shoulder makes a nice locating "stop" to keep the shock centered. The steel has enough strength to absorb the small reduction in wall thickness on the one side without issue. I make it a press fit, but I always add some loctite blue to take up any variations I may have missed when measuring:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_09_03_19_6_58_29_1.jpeg)
There we go. Same width as the FJ top mount on the shock and it's locked to the body of the CBR shock.
Then I press in the teflon bushings:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_09_03_19_6_58_29_2.jpeg)
You can just see them inside the adapter.
In goes the FJ bushing:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_09_03_19_6_40_07_3.jpeg)
Now the stock FJ bolt slides right in and it's supported just like it is in the FJ shock:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_09_03_19_6_58_30_4.jpeg)
Ah, that's the ticket!
Now it bolts in and tightens down just like the FJ shock does in the stock frame bracket.
The bottom mount is going to be much easier. The CBR clevis is the same internal width as the FJ linkage and the bolt hole just needs to be opened up a size to fit the FJ lower bolt.
Looks like a simple thing to make, but it took me half the day to spin out that little adapter to the tolerances I needed. But the result is well worth the effort!
:)
PS: just for reference, all those pics were taken in "landscape" orientation. All except one of them uploaded sideways.....
Since I don't have all the welding and machining capability that you have, I'm feeling pretty good about my $550 Penske right now. :-)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 09, 2019, 07:25:04 PM
Since I don't have all the welding and machining capability that you have, I'm feeling pretty good about my $550 Penske right now. :-)
Absolutely!
No way you could replicate this for that low an amount. This would likely be in the 1000-2000 range if you were to have a shop try and make it and it would be a total gamble for them to have a go at it. Which means if it didn't work out, you'd still be on the hook for their labor bill.....not good.
But I enjoy the challenge of making stuff as much (if not more) than using it and I had all this raw material already lying around collecting dust. It was do something with it or toss it all out in the "retirement purge"...;)
Great White, do you have access to a shock Dyno for tuning?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 09, 2019, 09:22:05 PM
Great White, do you have access to a shock Dyno for tuning?
Nope.
I "tune" mostly by feel at a local track.
No pics today, but the shock is built. No pics because I blew it apart and assorted parts and pieces are currently in paint and drying.
Tomorrow, it's final assembly and then full steam ahead on the FZ1 swingarm.
:)
Assembly complete:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_11_03_19_4_27_54_0.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/4839_11_03_19_4_27_56_1.jpeg)
All it needs is an oil fill and nitrogen charge. Then its all tuning once the snow clears...
Very nice work, looks great.
How do you charge with nitrogen?
Joe
Quote from: Tuned forks on March 11, 2019, 07:25:58 PM
How do you charge with nitrogen?
Joe
There's a schrader valve on the reservoir.
Nice work, think that's something like an 05 CBR1000RR shock. The 900 & 954's had eyelets both ends.
Would the shock fit as Is ignoring the battery box as mine is history already
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on March 17, 2019, 04:17:49 PM
Nice work, think that's something like an 05 CBR1000RR shock. The 900 & 954's had eyelets both ends.
The main body is an 05 cbr600rr shock. The reservoir I cut off a cbr1000rr. The hose is from a cbr600f4i. The hydraulic adjuster is off a GTR1400. The spring is 89 FJ1200. The rest is custom stuff that I built myself.
Quote from: Little Pink Steve on March 17, 2019, 04:17:49 PM
Would the shock fit as Is ignoring the battery box as mine is history already
No, neither a cbr600rr or cbr1000rr will fit the FJ frame mount without major alterations to the area. Mainly the upper mount. You'd have to cut the back off the mount bracket to fit the integrated reservoir and find a way to take up the extra space on either side of the upper bushing. You'd be better off to lop the whole mount off the frame and nust build a new one that fits the shock. Even then, I'm not sure the reservoir would clear whats left in the space. Battery not being there helps, but the 1000rr sticks straight back and up and I'm not sure it would clear things in that area. The 600rr intergrated res sticks out to the rh side and you might get frame interference or something else in the way.
Then you'd have to find a way to get a heavier spring on there. The FJ (my 89) runs around a 1000-1100lb spring and the cbr springs are all down around 600-700lbs. Both the 600 and the 1000 cbr's. The FJ is simply going to squat a CBR spring too much from sheer weight. Cranking up the preload might fix the squat, but you may run out of spring on bumps and the ride is going to suffer (ie: you are going to suffer). You can forget loading it down with bags or pax with the preload already cranked up for just a rider.
The springs are tapered, meaning you either have to make a collar adapter (as I did) to take straight springs or pay out the nose for "motorcycle" springs. I'm running the FJ spring for now, but will likely swap it out for something else on e I get a chance to get road/track testing done.
You also want to start with a cbr600rr shock. It has a machined from billet center section and cast upper section. It has an "M-EE" part number on the shick body. All other cbr shocks have the body cast as part of the upper section. They're lower quality pieces and you're better off buying something aftermarket. They're rebuildable, but I wouldn't bother with them over aftermarket. The "M-EE" piece is worth the trouble though, given it's quality of it's parts. I also already had all this stuff lying around, so it cost me nothing but my time to build it.