Just picked up a 1993 FJ with ABS. Has 25K miles but hasn't been on the road since at least 05 or 06. Other than a minor tip over, it's pretty much in stock condition. Only mods I can find are braided brake and clutch lines and a K&N air filter.
I've already cleaned the carbs and eventually got it running today. I need to go back and check the choke passages though. Hard to start when cold and the choke only makes it worse. Anyway, after that I'm on to tires and brakes before it gets on the road. Any suggestions for tires?
Thanks
Don
Welcome and congratulations on your purchase.
Tires.....Mmmm. Tire threads are dangerous. Everyone will have an opinion on what is best. In short, your choices are very limited with the 16" rear wheel. There are 3 or 4 popular choices. Bridgestone Battlax and Avon seem to be the most used ones. Plan B is to upgrade the rear wheel to a 17" rim. There are many examples of this and How To's in this forum. With a 17" and 17 Front (already on the 93), the world is your oyster.
Good luck. Please don't ask what oil is the best. :rofl2:
Mark
Welcome to the forum :hi:
As Mark mentions, tire choices can be a hot topic among members. When I purchased my current FJ. The tires that were on it were Avon Storm 3D X-M. I don't know how many miles were on the tires when I picked up the bike. I put 4000 miles on them and they still had plenty of tread. Purchased new, they have a 15,000 mile warranty. Another Avon tire that I have heard good things about is the Avon Spirit ST. These tires also come with a 15,000 mile warranty. Another option is the Pirelli Sport Demon. Some members like them and some members don't like them.
Also as Mark mentioned... The best option IMO is the 17" rear wheel mod. This opens up your tire choices from ultra sticky track day tires too the latest and greatest Sport-Touring tires in the 180/55/17 size.
Photos
1. Avon Storm 3D X-M
2. Avon Spirit ST
3. Pirelli Sport Demon
4. GSXR1100/RF900R rear wheel mod
Fred
Oh boy! A virgin! Welcome aboard! Get your wallet out and click on that RPM banner. Also, look through the "Mods" subforum. You're gonna love that bike.
I was a bit hesitant asking about tires but the 16" rear was throwing me out of my comfort zone.
Nope, will never ask about oil. I'm on enough motorcycle forums and have seen the carnage.
The engine on this bike is all stock. Since I need to take the carbs back off to clean out the choke passages would it be a good idea to richen up the jetting while I'm in there? Stock airbox and stock exhaust. Maybe 112.5 jets and shim the stock needles? Any suggestions? I've been searching but most searches end up showing me settings with aftermarket exhaust and pods.
Really looking forward to riding this thing soon!!
Thanks guys.
Hello,
when you get it running we need to take it to the mountains this spring. I am in Newnan and have a 93. I have the fork valves from RPM and new springs on my bike, I cannot tell you what a huge difference it made. Just need to get the rear shock (out of stock at RPM). Also new tires were a big improvement.
Go with the GSXR 17" rear wheel mod asap.
If everything is stock and you're going to keep it that way then about the only thing you need to do to the carbs is bump the idle jet up to a 37.5.
You can also shim the needle to richen up the midrange.
On the choke, it sounds like the fuel pickup orifices in the float bowls are clogged. If there was gunk in the float bowls, chances are the orifices are obstructed. If this is the case, the choke will be getting little/no fuel and will just make cold starting worse.
Do yourself a favor and get the stainless steel carb bolt/o-ring kit from RPM.
or just send RPM your carbs like I did. best 150 I have spent on the bike. Carbs perfect and also bench synced. My bike was sitting for several years when I got it.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 23, 2019, 10:23:32 AM
If everything is stock and you're going to keep it that way then about the only thing you need to do to the carbs is bump the idle jet up to a 37.5.
You can also shim the needle to richen up the midrange.
On the choke, it sounds like the fuel pickup orifices in the float bowls are clogged. If there was gunk in the float bowls, chances are the orifices are obstructed. If this is the case, the choke will be getting little/no fuel and will just make cold starting worse.
Do yourself a favor and get the stainless steel carb bolt/o-ring kit from RPM.
Isn't the stock pilot jet already a 37.5? According to my Haynes manual it is. Is the manual wroing?
Quote from: Paul.1478 on January 23, 2019, 11:57:45 AM
or just send RPM your carbs like I did. best 150 I have spent on the bike. Carbs perfect and also bench synced. My bike was sitting for several years when I got it.
Thought about it but I like a challenge!! That and I wasn't sure the carbs could be salvaged. They'd been sitting with gas in them for at least 12 years.
Quote from: nsr250 on January 23, 2019, 06:55:15 PM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 23, 2019, 10:23:32 AM
If everything is stock and you're going to keep it that way then about the only thing you need to do to the carbs is bump the idle jet up to a 37.5.
You can also shim the needle to richen up the midrange.
On the choke, it sounds like the fuel pickup orifices in the float bowls are clogged. If there was gunk in the float bowls, chances are the orifices are obstructed. If this is the case, the choke will be getting little/no fuel and will just make cold starting worse.
Do yourself a favor and get the stainless steel carb bolt/o-ring kit from RPM.
Isn't the stock pilot jet already a 37.5? According to my Haynes manual it is. Is the manual wroing?
Yes Don, you are correct. The USA FJ's oem pilot jets are #37.5.
My friend DavidR miss spoke. I'm sure he ment to say to up the pilot jets to #40.
David has forgotten more about Mikuni BS36 CV carbs than I will ever know.
Back in the old days before we had Randy and Robert at RPM to help us, we had this guy we called the "FJ Carb Guru" who would help us with our carb woes: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=655.0;attach=293 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=655.0;attach=293)
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=43 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=43)
^^^Yes, it's the same DavidR
Here's a link to the RPM O ring/SS screw kit for the carbs David mentioned. It's by far the best $22 you will ever spend on your FJ http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit)
Welcome Don! :hi: You sound like you have some experience :good:
Welcome to the FJ fun house Don :hi:.
I'll stay out of any tyres shenanigans.
You seem to know your way around bikes, so excuse me if I'm being too obvious..
As I'm sure will be mentioned, wire the petcock under the tank (if not already done).
If it has been sitting for so long with fuel in I'd drain and flush the tank and have a close (awkward) look in the tank for rust.
You probably want to check the chain for stretch & sprockets for wear.
Give the shims a check for clearances. I've discovered that some supposed carb issues were actually the shims. Smoother too.
A cheap and easy mod (free!) is to do the timing advance http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4292.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4292.0)
Troyskie
Quote from: Troyskie on January 23, 2019, 10:42:25 PM
Welcome to the FJ fun house Don :hi:.
I'll stay out of any tyres shenanigans.
You seem to know your way around bikes, so excuse me if I'm being too obvious..
As I'm sure will be mentioned, wire the petcock under the tank (if not already done).
If it has been sitting for so long with fuel in I'd drain and flush the tank and have a close (awkward) look in the tank for rust.
You probably want to check the chain for stretch & sprockets for wear.
Give the shims a check for clearances. I've discovered that some supposed carb issues were actually the shims. Smoother too.
A cheap and easy mod (free!) is to do the timing advance http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4292.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4292.0)
Troyskie
Yeah, gas tank will get a thorough cleaning with vinegar and the petcock will be cleaned out.
Valves have been checked. A few are on the tight side but I've decided to get it all running before swapping them around.
Chain and sprockets look good. Chain needs to be cleaned but it seems to be turning with no kinks.
This bike was a one owner bike and was the owners pride and joy. It was well taken care of until his passing. Then it got stored in a horse barn and was covered in dirt.
Thanks for the link to the timing advance mod. Hadn't seen that one yet.
I blame dementia.....
It's been so long since I've been into my carbs that I don't remember anymore.
Either that .... or .... What were we talking about?
Welcome Don!
We are not far from Traxxion Dynamics in Kennesaw. I have not experienced an RPM shock, I am sure it's fantastic, but Traxxion will custom-build you a non-adjustable Penske, properly sprung for your weight and properly valved for that spring, for $850. (For another $300 they'll building you a double-adjustable version.) I had them rebuild my forks with new stiffer springs and the correct amount of heavier-weight oil, with RaceTech cartridge-emulating valves. Made a big difference. Between that and the 17x5 rear wheel off a YZF600R, everyone who has ridden both will tell you the FJ is easier to ride fast on a twisty road than my Ducati 998.
I don't know how your '93 is, hydraulically speaking, but my '89s were both awful from Day 1 (my first one was bought new.) I just thought that's how bikes were, until I tried a VFR700 and eventually a YZF1000R, and realized "okay, most bikes are pretty good, it's just these that are crap." I don't know if it's compatible with ABS, but on the non-ABS bikes you can direct-fit the aluminum monoblock calipers (pre-radial-mount only) from more modern YZFs / FZs / R1s / R6s. The adjustable brake lever and master cylinder from an FZ1 also bolts right on, and it all makes a huge difference in feel and stopping power, it'll pick up the rear wheel with two fingers.
I always had good luck with Metzler radial tires, there was usually something that fit the 16" rear wheel even if it was an ME-Z2 from a Triumph or something. Everyone who has tried them seems to like Avons, and they make the Storm 3D X-M Sport Touring Radial AV66 in a 150/80-16, so you could do that. There are a variety of 17" rear wheel solutions, most of which are substantially lighter than the factory Reagan-era 16" rear wheel that came stock. Some folks go to the entire FZ1 swingarm assembly, narrowed to fit into the FJ frame.
I have not been inside the FJ's carbs, I chickened out and shelved my originals and bought a set of new ones a few years ago. As of yesterday, the choke was sticking on at least a couple of them from sitting there for a few months, so I need to get in there and grease stuff up a bit. Superbowl Sunday looks like it'll be >60F out and I may get to ride into work a few days next week. You may get away with simply soaking and blowing out the passages and jets and then reassembling everything clean, or you may need diaphragms. Mine simply overflowed, if I'd known how easy a fix that was I would've just done that instead. (I rebuilt some Virago carbs, a pair of 250 Ninja carbs, and then a pair of EX500 carbs, nothin' to it.)
In May, we typically meet at the Boone KOA the weekend before Memorial Day weekend, plus a few days before. (A lot of people go early in the week, get their riding in during the week when roads are empty, and either hang out all weekend or leave early depending on weather / conditions. No point sticking around in the rain if you're trailering back to Canada or Michigan.) We look forward to it all winter, and for some of our northern brothers and sisters it's the first good ride of the season. (Although of course we are usually deep into riding season around the Atlanta area by then.) Anyway, Boone is an easy 5 hours from Atlanta if you're okay with the first 4 hours being mostly highway, more like 8 or 9 hours if you go the way I do (GA400 to Cumming, then Hwy 9 to Dahlonega and I wing it from there.) It's a great bunch of folks, bike-agnostic (although R1s have seemed to find more than their share of trouble though) and it's lifetime-ritual kinds of fun. People have come there from other time zones, other countries, other continents, it's a good time.
Anyway, welcome
I guess prices have gone up in the last decade.
My Penske Sport Shock with preload, rebound damping, and ride height adjustment was $650
Hello Don
Congratulations on becoming a member of the FJ family. Larry Eagle here, aka Big Bird. I have been gone from the site for a a while with some health issues but now I'm back and all is good.
So 1st off I am just down the road in Phenix City Al. which is just across the river from Columbus Ga. I would be glad to meet up[ with you and or Paul a ride sometime. I have a 89 Fj along with 2 other bikes.
2nd Getting a 17" back tire is a must. I have a 91 gixxer 750 17 on mine. Makes all the difference in the world in how the bike behaves at all speeds. It also allows for a larger selection of tires./ I have Michelin Pilot 5 on mine. Harder compound down the center and soft on the edges. Works great! 3rd. The RPM rear shock and having Randy or Robert at RPM rebuild your front forks and install the RPM valve is the just as amazing as the rear tire swap. My 89 handles like a new bike. 4th like anything else in life you can spend as much money as you want depending on what you are trying to do. Good news with these bikes is that they are so simple to wrench on and RPM has almost every part you will need at a good price and they are excellent quality and NO I DO NOT WORK FOR RANDY.
He, Robert and this forum have been a tremendous help with my bike.
Congrats again
Larry