I have an FJ1100 which is 1985 ^-^ my bike use to start and run happily only replaced the carbs with a 1200 cause the old.carbs were beyond repair. But recently it stopped working when i turn the key to on the oil light doesnt light up but when i press the igintion it lights up then turns off when i dont press the ignition. There plenty of oil and the bikbike doesnt turn over at all anymore.
Quote from: Commandershepard on January 18, 2019, 08:20:24 PMI have an FJ1100 which is 1985 recently it stopped working when i turn the key to on the oil light doesnt light up but when i press the igintion it lights up then turns off when i dont press the ignition. There plenty of oil and the bikbike doesnt turn over at all anymore.
Commandershepard,
With the key
removed, put the bike on the center stand and select fifth gear. Rotate the rear wheel a few turns, by hand. If the engine will not turn over, then probably the carbs have leaked, and filled a cylinder with gasoline. Check for a gasoline smell at the crankcase filler. If the engine oil is over-full now, or smells like gasoline, fix the fuel problem first,
before you do anything else. Then change the oil for good new oil. A gas and oil mix in the crankcase will kill your engine very dead, if you try to start and run it.
Only if the engine turns over nicely by hand: Each end of each battery cable must be clean and secure. Dirty or loose cable ends won't work. The battery needs a full electrical charge, or maybe a new battery. Try jumper cables, if the battery has been fully charged. What happens when you press the starter button? Keep us posted.
The oil light is only an oil level light, not an oil pressure light. It only comes on when running if the oil level is low, if you are accelerating really hard, going up a steep hill, or some combination of those things. The oil light does not indicate any loss of oil pressure, but a low oil level can cause a loss of oil pressure within a minute.
I might be over simplifying it, but is the kill switch off?
If the kill switch is off, when you press the starter the oil and fuel warning lights will come on (this is so you can test for a blown bulb).
Troyskie
The kill is on haha ^-^ this is the first time owning a fj1100 its a project bike at this moment ^-^ and I'll do what you say red ^-^ but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong o o i looked in the floats of the carbs to see if they sticking but they all working fine. Do you think the oil sensor could be causing this if its faulty o o
There are three safety switches.
Neutral switch - does the green light work?
Kick stand switch.
Clutch switch.
If one or more of them is not functioning properly, the bike will not crank over.
Randy - RPM
There no kick stand switch im guessing old owner removed it green light works and clutch switch works. Isnt the oil level light suppose to be on when the key is turned on then turn off when engine turning over not off when you have key on and then turns on when you press the starter o o
Did you check the battery?
The battery connections are as good as they can be and the battery brand new and fully charge o o i hope its not only my bike that ever got this problem
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 18, 2019, 10:49:45 PM
The oil light does not come on when the key is on but the bike isn't running.when the key is on and you push the starter the light will flicker.If you turn the kill switch off and push the starter button with the key on the oil switch will stay on steady as long as the starter switch is pushed.
Like that but the light doesnt flicker when kill switch on its on steady when i press the starter.
I think mine flickers when i push the starter switch because the starter is turning over.
have you checked to see if you can turn the wheel in fifth gear like red said yet?
Mate, if the oil light is solid when you push the starter button then the kill switch, although in the run position, might be dirty and not working properly.
One of my 11's did that.
I removed the switch block and gave it a blast with some air & then used some contact cleaner. No issues now.
You can also try flicking it on and off whilst holding the starter button so see if it is an intermittent fault (the worst kind of fault).
Troyskie
Just did what red said and it turning fine no problems on that and there no petrol smell in filler. I'll clean out the switch block tomorrow morning ^-^ hopefully its only that and nothing else i was worried that it'll be the sensor under the engine
Anyother ideas will be perfect to hear ^-^ ill be working on the bike all day tomorrow so I'll come on here first and try ideas that come up till it works ^-^
Perhaps when the PO removed the side stand switch there is crud or an unintentional connection/short?
The side stand cable routes from the switch back towards the rear of the bike then up into the loom.
Troyskie
Quote from: Commandershepard on January 18, 2019, 09:05:05 PM
but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong
that eliminates the starter or a locked engine.check if the starter relay is switching when you try to start it.there is a good wiring diagram in the owners manual if it is still with the bike.
Maybe this will help.
What Troy said,,,,,,I would start with spraying the inside of the Kill Switch with contact cleaner and then switching the Kill Switch to ON and OFF about 50 times or so ,,
I had this happen to me years ago on one of my FJ1100 Bikes and it turned out to be the Kill Switch was playing up , strange because I never use my Kill Switch as a rule ,
Quote from: Commandershepard on January 18, 2019, 09:05:05 PMThe kill is on haha this is the first time owning a fj1100 its a project bike at this moment and I'll do what you say red but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong o o i looked in the floats of the carbs to see if they sticking but they all working fine. Do you think the oil sensor could be causing this if its faulty
Commandershepard,
What we can tell you depends on what you tell us.
If you can "jump the stator" (starter solenoid?) and the bike runs, then you have an electrical problem, nothing more. The oil sensor can not be any part of the problem, it is just a float that detects low oil levels.
There is (or should be) a sidestand switch, clutch switch, and a kill switch that can cause the problem, or maybe a bad solenoid switch. Somebody with a wiring diagram (not me) can probably tell you what each switch should do. If the correct voltage is coming to the solenoid switch when you press the starter button and it does not work, then the solenoid switch is bad.
Thanks Red. Finally someone telling the OP the oil light is not his problem. I think Randy's reply was the same but too succinct.
Dave
Quote from: red on January 19, 2019, 09:31:50 AM
There is (or should be) a sidestand switch, clutch switch, and a kill switch that can cause the problem....
I've been informed that in certain markets (e.g. Australia) FJ's did not come with a side stand switch.
Looking at the pictures, judging by the condition of bike, I would start with a continuity test on the run/stop switch and go from there.
Quote from: red on January 19, 2019, 09:31:50 AM
Quote from: Commandershepard on January 18, 2019, 09:05:05 PMThe kill is on haha this is the first time owning a fj1100 its a project bike at this moment and I'll do what you say red but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong o o i looked in the floats of the carbs to see if they sticking but they all working fine. Do you think the oil sensor could be causing this if its faulty
Commandershepard,
What we can tell you depends on what you tell us.
If you can "jump the stator" (starter solenoid?) and the bike runs, then you have an electrical problem, nothing more. The oil sensor can not be any part of the problem, it is just a float that detects low oil levels.
There is (or should be) a sidestand switch, clutch switch, and a kill switch that can cause the problem, or maybe a bad solenoid switch. Somebody with a wiring diagram (not me) can probably tell you what each switch should do. If the correct voltage is coming to the solenoid switch when you press the starter button and it does not work, then the solenoid switch is bad.
Just take your shorting out device with you when you go out, Ultimate theft deterrent.
As Red Said, "bad solenoid switch", you short it and it starts and runs.
Check voltage to it when you press the start button, if you have voltage and solenoid doesn't operate, bingo.
Same happened on the Bermagui manshed day to Mark
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 19, 2019, 12:45:49 PM
I've been informed that in certain markets (e.g. Australia) FJ's did not come with a side stand switch.
Not too sure where 'Austrailia" is but I Fixed it Pat, now you just have to amend dictionary in your phone/tablet so it doesn't happen again.....
Cheers
Alan
You will have voltage to one side of the starter solenoid from the battery at all times. Is it possible the starter solenoid is bad? Yes. Is it probable? NO. The control circuit that controls the starter solenoid runs through the start/stop switch, neutral switch, clutch switch and kick stand switch(if you have one) and the red starter button. All these switches must be operable before the solenoid will power the starter. Like Randy said start checking these switches and the power to them first.
Dave
Thanks Alan :flag_of_truce: sorry about that lads.... I'll have a word with my proof reader....
I cleaned the switches and points and yeah i ment solenoid i might open it up like i did with my old kawasaki and see if the inside warned or dirty. I learnt that from my old man he always fixed his own bikes alot. Im gonna go through all the switches again using a multimeter and this model i have seems to have no stand switch there no wiring to it the old owner said its been sitting for 20years so he wont be surprised if it is solenoid.
As can be seen in the picture of the repair manual previously posted,the control circuit for the starter is not a continues serial circuit through the kill switch kickstand switch clutch switch and neutral switch to the starter switch.there are three relays (maybe only two if the bike truly never had a kickstand switch)the "starter" relay,the "relay unit" relay and the "side stand" relay.each relay has a set of contacts that are switched when the magnetic coil is energized by have twelve volts positive applied to one side and the other side is connected to ground.the starter relay has positive twelve volts applied to one side of the contacts and one side of the magnetic coil directly from the battery at all times.the other side of the starter relay contacts is connected to the starter motor.the ground side of the starter relay magnetic coil is connected to the contacts of the relay unit coil.when the coil of the "relay unit" relay is energized the "relay unit" contacts close and connect the the starter relay coil ground wire to the starter switch which when depressed connects the coil to ground energizing the starter relay coil closing its contacts and connecting the battery to the starter.the magnetic coil of the "relay unit coil has positive twelve volts applied to the coil from the kill switch anytime it is on and the key is in the on position.the ground connection of the "relay unit" relay coil is energized by being connected to ground either through the neutral switch being closed or through the clutch and side stand switches being closed causing the "relay unit" relay contacts to close enabling the starter switch. the third relay is the side stand relay the positive side of the magnetic coil on this relay is also supplied positive twelve volts from the kill switch however the contacts of this relay remain closed when the coil is denergized and open when it is energized the opposite of the other two relays.when the coil is denergized and therfore the contacts are closed this relay grounds out the ignition through a wire from the tci unit preventing spark at the spark plugs. if the sidestand relay is energized either through the nuetral switch being closed or the kickstand switch being up and closed the side stand relay contacts open ungrounding the ignition and allowing spark. so you could read twelve volts positive on the relays but they wont switch until the the connection through a switch or contacts is made to ground.
Hmm that makes alot of sense i know what to look for now ^-^ lets say if i can't find the problem in the circuit is it possible to make a separate key ignition one key stays in the ignition for everything and another key to turn on the starter which increase security so people wont be able to steal it easy o o
Quote from: T Legg on January 19, 2019, 09:53:18 PM
As can be seen in the picture of the repair manual previously posted,the control circuit for the starter is not a continues serial circuit through the kill switch kickstand switch clutch switch and neutral switch to the starter switch.there are three relays (maybe only two if the bike truly never had a kickstand switch)the "starter" relay,the "relay unit" relay and the "side stand" relay.each relay has a set of contacts that are switched when the magnetic coil is energized by have twelve volts positive applied to one side and the other side is connected to ground.the starter relay has positive twelve volts applied to one side of the contacts and one side of the magnetic coil directly from the battery at all times.the other side of the starter relay contacts is connected to the starter motor.the ground side of the starter relay magnetic coil is connected to the contacts of the relay unit coil.when the coil of the "relay unit" relay is energized the "relay unit" contacts close and connect the the starter relay coil ground wire to the starter switch which when depressed connects the coil to ground energizing the starter relay coil closing its contacts and connecting the battery to the starter.the magnetic coil of the "relay unit coil has positive twelve volts applied to the coil from the kill switch anytime it is on and the key is in the on position.the ground connection of the "relay unit" relay coil is energized by being connected to ground either through the neutral switch being closed or through the clutch and side stand switches being closed causing the "relay unit" relay contacts to close enabling the starter switch. the third relay is the side stand relay the positive side of the magnetic coil on this relay is also supplied positive twelve volts from the kill switch however the contacts of this relay remain closed when the coil is denergized and open when it is energized the opposite of the other two relays.when the coil is denergized and therfore the contacts are closed this relay grounds out the ignition through a wire from the tci unit preventing spark at the spark plugs. if the sidestand relay is energized either through the nuetral switch being closed or the kickstand switch being up and closed the side stand relay contacts open ungrounding the ignition and allowing spark. so you could read twelve volts positive on the relays but they wont switch until the the connection through a switch or contacts is made to ground.
That would be the screwdriver you are now using to jump the solenoid. You just have to find each relay and switch then work your way with a meter through the circuit until you find something that isn't right. start by seeing if your starter relay clicks when you push the starter.
Quote from: Commandershepard on January 19, 2019, 07:47:11 PM
I cleaned the switches and points and yeah i ment solenoid i might open it up like i did with my old kawasaki and see if the inside warned or dirty. I learnt that from my old man he always fixed his own bikes alot. Im gonna go through all the switches again using a multimeter and this model i have seems to have no stand switch there no wiring to it the old owner said its been sitting for 20years so he wont be surprised if it is solenoid.
Greetings , Have you tried to start the bike by pulling the clutch handle all the way to the handle bar and trans in neutral?
Are the lights still coming on like the bulb test mentioned before?
Have you checked your fuses?
Did you disassemble your start button and clean it up?
when you jumped your solenoid , did you jump the main power or put power to the solenoid as if coming from start circuit?
Being that the bike sat for 20yrs , you will have some problems.. sometimes the relays get stuck and giving them a little whack with the plastic end of a screwdriver wakes them back up.
Using a voltmeter you should be able to trace this down by following your path of power. I see someone posted a schematic already.
Keep charging ahead.