Hi everyone!
i justfound a fantastic deal on a 1985 FJ1100. i really wasnt looking for an FJ; nor had i ever thought of owning one but i am excited to learn about this bike. a math teacher in high school used to commute with one. this was at a time when the idea of riding revolved around off road and i had no interest in street riding.
i am a zrx guy. i have owned a number of those. ppl describe the rex as being an easy bike to perform maimtenance on. i think the FJ seems easier. yep i will be having to dig in quite a bit. the bike only has 10,600 miles and the carbs already have clearly indicated that they are shot! i drained 8 qts of liquid out of the oil pan. its ok. it is wintery here in Massachusetts and even if i got out to ride, i would be uncomfortable.
looking forward to being part of this community
Welcome, the FJ is quite easy to work on. And 8 qt. is a bit much, it might smell like gas. If the carbs/petcock leaked then gas can trickle down into the cylinders and then into the crankcase. Has the bike sat for a period?
And don't worry, the FJ seems to do OK in the dirt as well. Many owners have gone off road with good results. Some even intentionally. The ground clearance is lacking, I trashed my #3 and #4 header pipes leaving the pavement once. Another reported getting some air under both wheels, the rear shock link did not survive.
Its all good and what doesn't kill us just costs us more in parts.
Two things you will find helpful to know. Modits and Kookalooo. The FJ has a cult like following and support. The list of modifications and aftermarket parts will make your head spin and wallet empty. Then Kookaloo is the word that describes a properly tuned FJ, wide open throttle, as you pass above 5K in third gear.
Welcome aboard. This is THE place for FJ's. Do us all a favor and take a moment to edit your profile to include some relevant information; year of your bike, your location, etc. This makes it easier for folks to reply to any questions with accuracy.
Congrats on the '85 FJ...the "true" sportbike of the FJ series! :lol:
Let the mods begin.
First, ditch the anti dive on the forks, it never worked anyways. Block off plates can be used but they must be properly drilled to allow oil to pass back and forth between the holes. Decent 16" tires are getting harder and harder to find so you'll find many of us have done rather extensive swaps to 17" wheels. There is a ton of information on this board regarding this issue. Finally...RPM is your friend. :good2:
Welcome to the group.
As Mark said, the FJ is a breeze to work on compared to most bikes.
Little niggly things like the airbox, suspension, clutch and wheels are easily rectified.
I'm sure Pat will chime in, but before anyone else says it, check the petcock is wired and the tyres are less than 5 yrs old.
Troyskie
big thanks, guys! i am already getting quite familiar with the bike. it hydrolocked on me due to a faulty fuel valve. the drain plug deposited 8 qts of fluid. fortunately, i wasnt riding it! everything seems ok. i put in fresh oil . i removed the tank and am waiting for a new fuel valve with a manual shut off. the carbs are off and i am planning on cleaning the jets.
Quote from: REXNFX on December 15, 2018, 07:07:05 PM
big thanks, guys! i am already getting quite familiar with the bike. it hydrolocked on me due to a faulty fuel valve. the drain plug deposited 8 qts of fluid. fortunately, i wasnt riding it! everything seems ok. i put in fresh oil . i removed the tank and am waiting for a new fuel valve with a manual shut off. the carbs are off and i am planning on cleaning the jets.
In that case you should also change float needles and seat O-rings (or just the new seats in also). I hope your engine is OK, starter is strong enough that you end up with bent connecting rod(s) in case of hydrolocking.
6how would i know if connecting rods are bent? would comprrssion testing reveal there to be a problem? i was going to run a compression test but my friend with the tester didnt have the right fitting so we couldnt do it.
It would. But accurate compression readings can be done only on an engine at operating temperature. At that point you will already know if the rod(s) is(are) bent 'cause it either won't start or it will run strangely. Be advised, dirty or misadjusted carbs also make yor engine run rough/strange/back fire....
Easiest thing to check it: put a screw driver in the spark plug holes and measure how much it sticks out. Cylinders 1 and 4, 2 and 3 should be the same height. Or with Vernier calipers.
i have an order for shims to come in. then i am going to do a valve check, empty and refill the case, clean and put back the carbs. then i will feel better about running the bike to cjeck. i really wabt to be able to hold on to this bike for a nice alternative ride to the bike that i am really akin to... a ZRX1200