I'm looking for bolt on replacement mirrors for an 1986 FJ1200. I tried the CBR 600 mirrors but they didn't fit any information on what fits would be greatly appreciated.
The aftermarket options require a little modification to work. I chose to use the original base to keep the rubber boot and keep some of my sins covered. This requires the base to be modified to take the Honda mirror. And some heat to soften the thread lock and remove the base I did not want. Then I needed a shim spacer to angle them into a useful position.
Or just slot the Honda base and enjoy the view...
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9605.msg91343#msg91343 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9605.msg91343#msg91343)
Have you had a dig around for OEM mirrors? Or are you changing to get away from them?
I just had a little look but seems you can still get them out there... Not sure what your model is or which side.. but here is an eBay link to one....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1TX-26280-00-Yamaha-Mirror-Assemblyassy-Left-New-Genuine-OEM-Part-/332687027898?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1TX-26280-00-Yamaha-Mirror-Assemblyassy-Left-New-Genuine-OEM-Part-/332687027898?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1)
I have been searching for parts for mine... and although things are still available, its all getting a bit pricey...
Cheers
Hey Ribz0
Yes, OEM mirrors are still around and that is what a lot of people prefer, especially those wanting to keep their bikes all original. But as you said they are not cheap.If you are not a pureist then the CBR mirros mentioned above are cheaper, readily available and will give you a view of the world behind you past your elbows.
It is always nice to have options.
PS. Greetings from the East Coast. Grafton NSW
Mark
No worries mate... lol... yeah... i get what yr saying about seeing more behind you...
Cheers..
Quote from: Ribz0 on December 02, 2018, 07:05:25 PM
Have you had a dig around for OEM mirrors? Or are you changing to get away from them?
I just had a little look but seems you can still get them out there... Not sure what your model is or which side.. but here is an eBay link to one....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1TX-26280-00-Yamaha-Mirror-Assemblyassy-Left-New-Genuine-OEM-Part-/332687027898?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1TX-26280-00-Yamaha-Mirror-Assemblyassy-Left-New-Genuine-OEM-Part-/332687027898?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1)
I have been searching for parts for mine... and although things are still available, its all getting a bit pricey...
Cheers
I didnt really want to pay the prices for new ones i find them expensive.
As FJmonkey stated, the most common mirror alternatives need to be slightly modified. The most common mirrors are the CBR250/600/1000 and late model Bandit 1200/1250 mirrors. Both the Honda and Suzuki mirror base's require modifying the holes. Here is an example of a modified CBR mount base.
Fred
I found a cheap $15.00 set of CBR compatible mirrors to try. My stockers had something large loose and rattling behind the right glass so I thought I'd try them.
The mirrors just don't find a good angle using the FJ mount or modifying the CBR style mount. I have a 3D printer and came up with these. The handed version on the left is what I settled on for the right side. This tips them back an additional 5 degrees and out 10 degrees. As you can see the stock boots fit and look pretty good.
Caution: 3D printing is great for testing and toys. My professional experience with printed parts has taught me to not trust the printed bond. You might lose a mirror when the bond lets loose. I have had to redesign a shaft for a potentiometer because it keeps breaking from the torque. Pots don't have much torque, but the repetitive motion seems to split the printed bond. Just a word of caution...
FJmonkey,
I too have seen layer adhesion problems with 3D printing. I did use a carbon infused filament for the final part and have it pretty well dialed in. I am going to add a safety wire tether too the mirror stalk and fairing anchor bolt for the safety of it.
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on July 28, 2019, 04:25:02 PM
FJmonkey,
I too have seen layer adhesion problems with 3D printing. I did use a carbon infused filament for the final part and have it pretty well dialed in. I am going to add a safety wire tether too the mirror stalk and fairing anchor bolt for the safety of it.
Awesome, what filament are you using that has the carbon? 1.75 MM I assume? My experience is mostly with ABS.
I forget the brand and am away from it right now. It was highly recomended on Amazon. A PLA blended with carbon fibers. It took a few prints to dial it in from my straight PLA experience.
Thid is the Amazon Choice filament I used. It's $25.00 for 1kg spool. For whatever reason I find PLA to be less troublesome than ABS or PETG. This seems to print well at the higher recomended temperature.
"SunTop 3D Carbon Fiber PLA Filament 1.75mm, Rohs Compliance, 1 kg (2.2lbs) Spool, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm,Black"
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on July 28, 2019, 04:25:02 PM
..... I am going to add a safety wire tether too the mirror stalk and fairing anchor bolt for the safety of it.
That will sure make it safer for the folks riding behind you, however that dangling mirror will now be slapping up against your fairing, beating the shit out of your paint.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 29, 2019, 03:45:26 PM
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on July 28, 2019, 04:25:02 PM
..... I am going to add a safety wire tether too the mirror stalk and fairing anchor bolt for the safety of it.
That will sure make it safer for the folks riding behind you, however that dangling mirror will now be slapping up against your fairing, beating the shit out of your paint.
Point taken. It'll be time to stop if either one breaks, although I don't think they will.
If it's gonna happen, Murphy's Law dictates that it happens at speed.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 29, 2019, 10:01:58 PM
If it's gonna happen, Murphy's Law dictates that it happens at speed.
Murphy's law and that of Lift over Drag, aerodynamic force vs. printed layer adhesion strength.
The good news is they have gone 150 plus miles of spirited back woods road riding without letting go. So far, so good. Will be vigilant though.
trying some el cheapo's from amazon. so far, so good. fit no problem
kind of look like my guzzi mirrors on my norge
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1MDJTFJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1MDJTFJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)(https://i.postimg.cc/bw7nvzzm/camphoto-758783491.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqvhFqLv/camphoto-1903590565.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Report: After several attempts at a 3D printed version of the fairing mount base, it seems the layer bond failure is more due to the mirror bouncing up and down over regular road bumps over time. The failure rate was just too high lasting 400 miles at the most before 3D print layer adhesion failure. I thought about going back in time and using the FJ1100 style handlebar type mounting like Maverick has.
Instead of that I got into foundry works using a lightweight 3D printed set as blanks for a Lost Wax type casting of a pair of handed aluminium mounts. If you want to know more specifics on the "Lost Wax" molding technique there is tons of information available through a Google search for that and reasonably priced equipment as well, in case you need another hobby to pursue and perfect.
Suffice it to say, I was able to produce a usable handed pair of aluminium mounts after a couple of initial manufacturing failures. One lesson is to make the spru and vents of your mold as big as you can so the molten aluminium flows without any restriction retaining most of its heat while pouring. Initial failures are ok while learning as the failures can easily be melted down again and recycled. I have not even had to tighten the stems up again after over 1500 miles now.
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on December 29, 2023, 03:49:21 PMReport: After several attempts at a 3D printed version of the fairing mount base, it seems the layer bond failure is more due to the mirror bouncing up and down over regular road bumps over time. The failure rate was just too high lasting 400 miles at the most before 3D print layer adhesion failure. I thought about going back in time and using the FJ1100 style handlebar type mounting like Maverick has.
Instead of that I got into foundry works using a lightweight 3D printed set as blanks for a Lost Wax type casting of a pair of handed aluminium mounts. If you want to know more specifics on the "Lost Wax" molding technique there is tons of information available through a Google search for that and reasonably priced equipment as well, in case you need another hobby to pursue and perfect.
Suffice it to say, I was able to produce a usable handed pair of aluminium mounts after a couple of initial manufacturing failures. One lesson is to make the spru and vents of your mold as big as you can so the molten aluminium flows without any restriction retaining most of its heat while pouring. Initial failures are ok while learning as the failures can easily be melted down again and recycled. I have not even had to tighten the stems up again after over 1500 miles now.
excellent, nice work