So, tomorrow I shall be a step closer to my original goal,set many moons ago.
An Fj engined, F1 framed 1980s race bike.
Deposit shall be paid in the morning.
Frame as raced by Colin Edwards and Jake Zemke at the Phillip island classic earlier this year.
Josh Hayes will be riding one in January too.
I will be accepting delivery early in the new year.
A strong,fast reliable engine will be the hard part.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18GC32P6QOmnXp_F0fPVVy-vhuoK43JhC/view?usp=drivesdk (https://drive.google.com/file/d/18GC32P6QOmnXp_F0fPVVy-vhuoK43JhC/view?usp=drivesdk)
Trying to share a photo here....not working.
Its in my gallery.
Fixed it for you... that thing looks NASTY! Love it!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W0XwT1ls7uVDtwXqp_Oaq5mPrSvsT_QQfybbnbOsO2gQtP9FdB85ECpXTSQVqkbhCzkayIxji81MIBfm58AR=w1629-h885-rw)
Wow :shok: Awesome bodywork.
Thanks Rick.
Joe
Very cool Jonesy! Keep the pictures coming. I wonder how much fuel the tank holds?
I wonder how hard it would be to hang some lights on it to get it street legal?
I wonder why they stayed with conventional forks on the front end? Class rules?
So many questions....
I've always lusted after a Spondon framed FJ.
No clue how big the tank is.
Maximum fork size is 43mm conventional.
It could be put on the road here in Ireland pretty easily.
Same as I did with my bobber.
Donor frame and vin plate, but this will be purely a race bike.
My plan is to offer my services to the Irish team competing on the Phillip Island classic races, if the Irish team ever get it together again.
Apart from that, I can think of nothing better than loading a bike like that into my van and heading off to a sunny race someplace in mainland Europe.
On a side note I wonder if NCR would make a titanium frame for an FJ like they do for the Ducatis? :scratch_one-s_head:
https://amsducati.com/ncr-ducati-848-1098-1198-titanium-frame (https://amsducati.com/ncr-ducati-848-1098-1198-titanium-frame)
https://www.cycleworld.com/ncr-ducati-titanium-parts-custom-motorcycles (https://www.cycleworld.com/ncr-ducati-titanium-parts-custom-motorcycles)
If we started a Go Fund Me drive, then have a lottery for forum members, maybe some lucky dog could catch one. A one-off would probably be in the $20K USD range. :shok: In my dreams... :biggrin:
Keep the updates coming esp when you get it on the track. :good2:
Stage one Yoshi cams
Lightened crank with fluted oil ways.
On its way!!
looking good.
At last months Phillip Island Classic, 4 FJ's with F1 frames placed in the top 10 of their class.
Keep the enthusiasm,
Mark
Yep, this chassis as ridden by Josh Hayes to the win in race 4.
Whoa!!! (popcorn)
On the lookout for a free flowing, sprung exhaust system now.
It has landed
Quote from: Indiana jones on February 17, 2019, 12:14:54 PM
On the lookout for a free flowing, sprung exhaust system now.
That's funny! I'd assume it would have to be custom fabricated ... stainless? Or TITANIUM!!
Quote from: Indiana jones on February 17, 2019, 12:14:54 PM
On the lookout for a free flowing, sprung exhaust system now.
The RPM exhaust to my knowledge is a free flow exhaust. Extremely light weight and his held together by springs.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPMHeader (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPMHeader)
Fred
Quote from: fj1289 on March 08, 2019, 11:13:57 PM
Quote from: Indiana jones on February 17, 2019, 12:14:54 PM
On the lookout for a free flowing, sprung exhaust system now.
That's funny! I'd assume it would have to be custom fabricated ... stainless? Or TITANIUM!!
A nice XJR system might need the link pipe modified a small bit at most.
For that reason, stainless would be preferred.
The engine is still the same.
I enjoy Kevin Cameron's articles:
https://www.cycleworld.com/exhaust-pipe-retaining-springs-50-ways-to-get-it-wrong (https://www.cycleworld.com/exhaust-pipe-retaining-springs-50-ways-to-get-it-wrong)
I remember breaking springs in the old days before swivel hooks.
Only Kevin could make exhaust pipe springs interesting.
Fred, does the RPM system use swivel springs?
(https://www.procircuit.com/content/image/37282/300/swivel-pipe-springs-800x800.jpg)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 12, 2019, 08:42:46 PM
Fred, does the RPM system use swivel springs?
(https://www.procircuit.com/content/image/37282/300/swivel-pipe-springs-800x800.jpg)
Nope. The springs do have the rubber sleeve,but no swiveling ends.
So after many hundreds of thousands of miles ridden on the RPM header system I have never heard of any broken springs.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: aviationfred on March 08, 2019, 11:59:11 PM
Quote from: Indiana jones on February 17, 2019, 12:14:54 PM
On the lookout for a free flowing, sprung exhaust system now.
The RPM exhaust to my knowledge is a free flow exhaust. Extremely light weight and his held together by springs.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPMHeader (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPMHeader)
Fred
I will have to try source something in Europe.
Shipping and tax makes everything overly expensive from North America.
My budget is screwed after buying the frame.
When it is all added up,it wouldn't have been much more expensive to buy a Harris F1 frame.
But I don't see the advantage of the old school, brass welded Harris frame ,apart from it being period correct,and more desireable.
Sure, more flexibility was required back in the 80s with the tyre and suspension tech that was available.
Also, the likes of the TT circuit was a lot bumpier back then,as were most circuits,I would imagine.
I'm looking at a set of Moto Martin headers on Fleabay with a flat 4 into 1 collector box with a 57mm outlet.
Granted a 4-2-1 set up would be better.
Boom. Stainless,sprung Akrapovic 4-2-1.
That's a good pipe.
I've always wondered for racing purposes....On a 4-2-1 system, if the engine firing order is 1-2-4-3, for proper merge design and scavenging shouldn't the #1 and #4 primaries be connected together and the #2 and #3 be connected?
....it would mean the #1 pipe would have an uneven length in order to cross over #2/3 to connect to #4, or vice-versa, so I suspect that it's more important to have equal length primary pipes vs merge design based of firing order.
All this stuff must have been figured out on a dyno.
Most of the TT spec and Phillip Island bikes have a 4into 1 config, obviously the preferred set up when the budget is there. I'll have to settle for the poor mans choice.
I have located Nova close ratio gears for the standard tranny.
Hanging up there nicely
Wow!!! Fj porn!
An 11000 mile xjr1300 engine is now going to be the basis for my race engine build.
I'll get it in the frame,as is, while I'm getting a head done.
I can get it wired and running.
Awesome progress! Can't wait to see/hear the finished bike used in anger!
I've been told that a lot of the race car guys sleeve the XJR cylinder blocks for durability. It seems that with the XJR's oem Niksil plated aluminum bore trends to oval under hard use.
What are your plans for your engine?
I've been chatting to Roger Winfield about the best pistons, etc.
His super reliable motors run std xjr13 pistons in std bores with zero problems. Any engine failures have been attributed to pushing things a little bit too far in the revs.
I'm pretty sure he's run an engine for 2 seasons and a precautionary strip revealed minimal wear.
I'll be hoping to get around the 140hp mark with head work,full system, stage 1 Yoshi cams, Mikuni 38 flats and a Dyna ignition.
I have a beautiful lightened crank but I think this will have an adverse effect on power delivery.
I have some Nova close ratio gears to help close up the gaps between gears.
I'll be using a Barnett spring conversion till I can afford a Sigma slipper unit of work out how to convert a zx10r clutch, apparently super reliable and smooth.
Ignition, tranny and clutch.
Motor in this weekend, hopefully.
Quote from: Indiana jones on April 18, 2019, 07:15:45 PM
I've been chatting to Roger Winfield about the best pistons, etc.
His super reliable motors run std xjr13 pistons in std bores with zero problems. Any engine failures have been attributed to pushing things a little bit too far in the revs.
I'm pretty sure he's run an engine for 2 seasons and a precautionary strip revealed minimal wear.
I'll be hoping to get around the 140hp mark with head work,full system, stage 1 Yoshi cams, Mikuni 38 flats and a Dyna ignition.
I have a beautiful lightened crank but I think this will have an adverse effect on power delivery.
I have some Nova close ratio gears to help close up the gaps between gears.
I'll be using a Barnett spring conversion till I can afford a Sigma slipper unit of work out how to convert a zx10r clutch, apparently super reliable and smooth.
You should get 140 HP without much hassle. I had 130 RWHP with a stock 87 FJ1200 engine that had Yosh Stage 1 cams, RS-38's and a Hindle 4-1 pipe. I set lobe center at 105 both intake and exhaust. I set the lobe centers at running lash....forget trying to get zero lash. Just subtract the lash from your opening #s. i.e. at zero lash intake suppose to open at 20 degrees BTDC. With .005" of lash the intake will open at 15 degrees BTDC.
And I agree....forget the lightened crank....I could go on about it but I won't.
The spring conversion kit is OK...I use 3 stiff and 3 lighter springs I sourced through Barnett. Clutch pull very reasonable but it holds 160 RWHP.
Xjr1300 engine just to get up and running.
Quote from: Indiana jones on April 18, 2019, 07:15:45 PM
I have some Nova close ratio gears to help close up the gaps between gears.
Interesting, can you offer the new tooth count for the gearing?
That might be something to look into for the future.
Randy - RPM
Here's something everybody can enjoy.
So far, there's nothing I don't like about this project.
Reminds me of a Harris special or those super saucy moto Martin kits they made in very limited numbers for the cbx sixers. Or even, dare I say it, the bimoto yb whatever it was.
Good luck with the build
Quote from: racerrad8 on April 29, 2019, 07:08:33 PM
Quote from: Indiana jones on April 18, 2019, 07:15:45 PM
I have some Nova close ratio gears to help close up the gaps between gears.
Interesting, can you offer the new tooth count for the gearing?
That might be something to look into for the future.
Randy - RPM
Not sure how big a difference there will be.
Apparently the teeth are "stretched " to achieve the ratio change.
No wonder we are trying to shift into 6th gear. 5th gear is not a 1 to 1 ratio.
Joe
I'm failing miserably to get 2nd gear off the input shaft to get 5th off.
Its pressed on and the bushing on 5 needs replacing.
Quote from: Indiana jones on May 01, 2019, 04:42:25 PM
I'm failing miserably to get 2nd gear off the input shaft to get 5th off.
Its pressed on and the bushing on 5 needs replacing.
You using heat?
Yes, I am.
Haven't reddened it yet.
Coils mounted and wired.
Carbs(Rs38 Mikuni) plumbed and q/a throttle hooked up.
Almost ready for a start!
Very cool project.....soon to be new winner of "Most Modified" :pardon:
Build currently stalled due to Isle of Man mechanic duties.
As it should be! :drinks:
It's been a while since I updated, bit I had a bit of bad luck during the summer. :Facepalm:
My house, a 350 year old traditional farm cottage, burned to the ground.
Pretty much took everything I own with it.
I'm only getting back on track after the ordeal.
Thankfully, it was insured, but money can't replace what was lost.
Luckily, I didn't have my project on display in my sitting room, but I did loose my beautiful BMW, 1150Adv.
My Nova close ratio tranny and Barnett clutch were in the house, but I have another set located.
Hopefully, I'll be making progress soon.
Updates to follow.
Great results for Team USA at the Phillip Island Classic.
Mojo Yamaha and CMR frames doing the job.
Wow! Glad you are safe. Glad the project survived too.
Good luck on getting life back on track - that has to be a big challenge.
Great write up - then the downturn, it happens -
Wishing for you to have a quick recovery
Got my battery box made.
Wiring is 90% complete and fitting nicely in the box.
Seat unit is mounted on the battery box lid, which is hinged, so it can flip back out of the way to expose the electrics.
This soooo cool to watch...
Exhaust hanger made.
Fairing mounted.
Looking great!
:good:
Tail lights
https://youtu.be/TGF4o8eNHKM
I think I'll have to get a standard set of carbs untill I have the tuned engine built.
It feels way over fueled off idle.
The rattle off the 38 flats is nice.
I replaced my rs-36 carbs on my fj1100 with rs-38 carbs when my old 1980's flatslides started having hanging idle problems.I had to rejet the idle jets from 17.5 jets to 15's and I dropped the mains down to 130's but I think I'm going back up to the 135's. I think I'm getting more power out of the old rs-36 carbs I just need to solve the severe hanging idle problem they developed. The old carbs have bakelite slides. There sound is even clackier.
Travis, wait till you hear Frank's Wizard with the FCR roller slides....
Sounds like Santa Claus is coming....
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 01, 2020, 11:46:29 AM
Travis, wait till you hear Frank's Wizard with the FCR roller slides....
Sounds like Santa Claus is coming....
And the rollers slides on the FCRs are SO nice and smooth - no "hangups" or "snatching" the RS carbs sometimes give at the very moment you don't need it!
https://youtu.be/jhRtL9rQ568
Off the bench and down the road, up to 3rd gear and all is well.
I'm a bit giddy with the thought of what I have.
It's many years ago I fell in love with the F1 concept and lusted after one.
Now.....I have one.
Dreams do come true.
Never give up.
Clothes on
Here she is.
Ready for road testing with a stock engine.
Trouser tingling stuff
I see you stuck with the rs-38 flat slides. Have you tuned them to run correctly now ? Mine are now working very well on my fj1100.
Quote from: T Legg on June 27, 2020, 12:54:14 AM
I see you stuck with the rs-38 flat slides. Have you tuned them to run correctly now ? Mine are now working very well on my fj1100.
Glad to hear you have yours dialed in. I have a set that I want to use, but they were converted to methanol, so I have some work to do.
Or - run E85?
This is a interesting thread.
Awesome build!
Too bad there weren't a bunch of other custom frames built for the FJ motor like there was for the Suzuki GSXRs, etc
About zero chance of finding one of these used ......
It's been a while since I had an update.
Put some road miles on the bike during last summer.
Pulled it apart over the winter for final prep for the now cancelled Classic TT.
So thing slowed down a tad.
My goal now is to get the the Bikers Classic in Spa, Belguim at the beginning of July.
I'm going to build a spare engine out of all my bits, so I can do a track day or 2 while my race engine is being built.
Brexit has screwed up me getting parts from the UK, so it's cheaper and easier to send the engine and parts over to Peter Hickman Racing for the build.
I've just been gathering my parts and double checking what I have and what I need.
Everything checked out until I made a very close inspection of my lightened crank from a drag bike.
It is a work of art, but I have noticed some subtle mods.
The conrods look new and are matched, evident by the lightening holes in the big end caps.
Also, the oil way from the big end, the one that shoots oil to the underside of the piston has been blanked.
I'm guessing that this extra lubrication/cooling isn't required in a drag bike doing short runs.
I don't think it's going to work in a race bike.
Is this a common drag bike modification?
Looks like it's been modified to prevent the bearing from spinning.
How the hell do I identify the bearing when I have no number on the rod and no colour on the bearing apart from plastigauge each one.
The code on the bearing is "D3K",is that relevant?
Randy should be able to help you out with sorting the bearings.
Yes and no as far as blocking off the piston squirters. Yes in that most drag race motors will probably have Carrillo rods - and they do not have piston squirters. No in that I've never seen the squirters on stock rods blocked off before.
I always thought that hole was to be a "reservoir" of oil - never seen it used to "pin" a bearing into place. Bearings don't "spin" and THEN cause damage. Bearings are first damaged (catastrophically) which CAUSES them to spin.
If I were in your shoes, I'd spring for some XJR rods. You would know what size they are at least (one variable removed from sorting bearing sizes) and you'd have the squirters too. On top of all that, the XJR rods are lighter and stronger than the FJ rods.
I have a low mileage Xjr1300 engine that I'm building up, so I'll just use everything from that and this crank.
Some serious work went into these conrods.
The crank is from a drag racer.
It must have been producing some serious power if thay had to pin the big ends.
I know that high horsepower engines can just spin a bearing as a matter of fact. No underlying reason other than massive power.
It's got ARP cap bolts too, so I'll reuse them.
Quote from: Indiana jones on April 03, 2021, 01:37:57 PM
It's got ARP cap bolts too, so I'll reuse them.
Chris, can Jonesy re-use the ARP cap bolts?
I thought once they were elongated by torque, they could not be re-used.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 03, 2021, 08:06:40 PM
Quote from: Indiana jones on April 03, 2021, 01:37:57 PM
It's got ARP cap bolts too, so I'll reuse them.
Chris, can Jonesy re-use the ARP cap bolts?
I thought once they were elongated by torque, they could not be re-used.
Pat, unfortunately I have no idea. I don't know the tightening spec on them and whether or not they are torque to yield. I know I was supposed to buy a setup to measure rod bolt stretch for the Carrillos, but there are also "alternate" torque specs listed too. I don't remember what I did when I put the big dragbike engine together - pretty sure I bought the jig to measure the bolt stretch though...
Quote from: fj1289 on April 03, 2021, 08:32:45 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 03, 2021, 08:06:40 PM
Quote from: Indiana jones on April 03, 2021, 01:37:57 PM
It's got ARP cap bolts too, so I'll reuse them.
Chris, can Jonesy re-use the ARP cap bolts?
I thought once they were elongated by torque, they could not be re-used.
Pat, unfortunately I have no idea. I don't know the tightening spec on them and whether or not they are torque to yield. I know I was supposed to buy a setup to measure rod bolt stretch for the Carrillos, but there are also "alternate" torque specs listed too. I don't remember what I did when I put the big dragbike engine together - pretty sure I bought the jig to measure the bolt stretch though...
Ok, thanks amigo....I found this FAQ for the ARP rod bolts:
Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable?
"....In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001" or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement...."
https://arp-bolts.com/p/faq.php
So the answer is yes, they can be reused if they have not stretched.
I'm mostly curious about the part number suitable for XJR rods. Looks like maybe some older Nissan or even Datsun rod bolts may be suitable?
The ARP bolts are a perfect fit. Granted the last 2 mm need to be drawn into the cap when tightening them, an interference fit really, but only on the last 2mm.
I don't know the history of the bolts, so I'll just go with new standard ones.
I'm considering not using the lightened Crank in my Xjr1300 race engine build. I reckon I'll be better off sticking with my standard 10,000 mile standard crank and rods.
I might use it in a spare "bitsa" engine I'll be putting together.
Well she and I made it onto track.
Couldn't have gone better.
The handling is sublime with perfect a Ktech front end and Ohlins rear.
Engine pulled strong with the dialled in Yoshi cams and Roger Upperton head.
Gave my Bsb superbike racing buddy a few laps on her too.
He was very impressed.
Success.
That's my CMR framed Honda too. Rs1000 replica with a Neate Racing Cb1173 engine.
Well done mate.
Awesome! Need to get someone to video so we can see and hear it run in anger!
In action
Quote from: Indiana jones on September 20, 2021, 02:01:52 PM
That's my CMR framed Honda too. Rs1000 replica with a Neate Racing Cb1173 engine.
looks like my good friend Phil Clarke's RS Rep. ??? - - jees if its not his bike its an uncanny combo of the same bits
Quote from: fj1289 on March 01, 2020, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 01, 2020, 11:46:29 AM
Travis, wait till you hear Frank's Wizard with the FCR roller slides....
Sounds like Santa Claus is coming....
And the rollers slides on the FCRs are SO nice and smooth - no "hangups" or "snatching" the RS carbs sometimes give at the very moment you don't need it!
with the RS38's - replace the felt washers in the outer carb's - ref: throttle lift bar - with plastic bearing bush's. Then slacken the carb body mounting screws - should now snap closed lovely - ok now gradually nip up the screws until it hang's again - brill - shim the screw that caused it to hang - basically the carb body mounting faces to the two assembly brackets are not kept to the best of tolerances
The new rs- 38's I bought have no hanging throttle problems at all but I'll take a look at my 35 year old rs-36 carbs and see if that might help the hanging idle problem they have although they snap shut fine when the bike is sitting. The problem is when it's running the idle can be stuck at 3- 4 thousand rpm. At the west coast rally in hayfork it was so bad my front rotors turned dark blue from trying to slow for the corners. I went so far as to pull the tops off while the bike was parked and running and manually push the slides down and the idle was still way to high . After the bike was cooled down the idle would return to normal untill it warmed up again . Frustration lead me to buy the new set of rs-38's . I would love to use the old rs-36's on one of my other FJ's. Thanks for the info.
Quote from: nlovie on September 22, 2021, 12:29:36 PM
with the RS38's - replace the felt washers in the outer carb's - ref: throttle lift bar - with plastic bearing bush's. Then slacken the carb body mounting screws - should now snap closed lovely - ok now gradually nip up the screws until it hang's again - brill - shim the screw that caused it to hang - basically the carb body mounting faces to the two assembly brackets are not kept to the best of tolerances
great info, thx
Bit of an update.
Completed 2 days on track in way April.
Some clutch slip but fuel was pretty OK.
Dyno run yesterday.
Running lean low down and clutch letting go at 6.5k rpm.
125 at the wheel.
More to come.
Anglesea next weekend for 2 days in track.
Excellent - glad you've made it to the track and the dyno!
I don't remember your clutch setup - stock? With double diagram spring? Or a six coil spring conversion? Would really like to see the numbers with the carb jetting sorted a bit more and the clutch slip gone!
I have a Barnett conversion with heavy duty springs, new steels and frictions.
Still slipping at the Anglesey track day.
I used richer needles, so she was pulling like a train till the clutch slipped.
Has anyone converted to a cable clutch as I'm starting to think it's the slave or master that's the issue.
Quote from: Indiana jones on June 10, 2022, 11:16:03 PM
I have a Barnett conversion with heavy duty springs, new steels and frictions.
Still slipping at the Anglesey track day.
I used richer needles, so she was pulling like a train till the clutch slipped.
Has anyone converted to a cable clutch as I'm starting to think it's the slave or master that's the issue.
Billet basket or stock basket? I don't remember the particulars, but I remember having to machine the clutch hub by .03" (I think) for clearance.
In my experience, clutch slave issues are generally clutch release/drag issues vice clutch slip issues.
Was this all based on an XJR engine as I recall? Did you use XJR or FJ sprocket cover/clutch slave mount? Did you use the XJR or FJ clutch pushrod?
Stock basket,xjr everything except for a rebuilt Fj slave,which is the same anyway.
I might increase the stack height with an extra steel like I used to do on my Ducati 999.
It's not even burning the plates which tells me that there isn't enough pressure on the plates to cause heat when its slipping.
I'm assuming you are using the oem fiber plates and that you've removed the snap ring and skinny inner fiber plate?
You are also using a "safe for wet clutch" oil?
Are you running the red springs or greens? The reds being the heaviest available.
I recall in the 80's/90's the drag racing guys needed special Kevlar plates as an interm until they progressed to lock up clutches.
http://www.barnettclutches.com/1310/yamaha/0/0/1991-yamaha-fj1200.html (http://www.barnettclutches.com/1310/yamaha/0/0/1991-yamaha-fj1200.html)
I have the RPM clutch pack using oem fibers with Barnett conversion using the green springs and it holds up well on my 1380cc street bike. I suspect the problem resides with the clamping force and friction plates, not with the hydraulic's.
Perhaps a call into Doc Hacker would be in order?
Cheers mate, I love your bike. Pat
You have a lot ambiguity here and specifics are needed.
You'll need to confirm which spring is the "heavy duty" one you have.
Secondly, as Pat already mentioned, if running the stock clutch pack, then you need to do some work to upgrade.
Unless you convert to thinner plates and steels you cannot shim the stack as the pressure plate can disengage from the clutch boss and stop all drive.
Finally, if you completely compress the slave cylinder, there should end some end play in the pushrod. If there is not or the slave won't seat against the mounting lugs, the pushrod is too long.
Shoot over the specifics and we can get you dialed in without too much fuss. The clutch is strong enough to push around our 1500 pound racecars, it can handle your race bike once you have the right combo.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: fj1289 on June 11, 2022, 08:32:32 AM
Quote from: Indiana jones on June 10, 2022, 11:16:03 PM
I have a Barnett conversion with heavy duty springs, new steels and frictions.
Still slipping at the Anglesey track day.
I used richer needles, so she was pulling like a train till the clutch slipped.
Has anyone converted to a cable clutch as I'm starting to think it's the slave or master that's the issue.
Billet basket or stock basket? I don't remember the particulars, but I remember having to machine the clutch hub by .03" (I think) for clearance.
In my experience, clutch slave issues are generally clutch release/drag issues vice clutch slip issues.
Was this all based on an XJR engine as I recall? Did you use XJR or FJ sprocket cover/clutch slave mount? Did you use the XJR or FJ clutch pushrod?
That is correct.
It's the springs.
I was under the impression that the green springs were the heaviest, that's what in it.
If it slips with the 6 springs I have in it now, I'll need a lock up clutch.
Lever feels much better.
Thanks for the replies.
It might take a little ingenuity - but if you can figure out how - measure the installed spring height (clutch lever released) and the bind height of the springs, then you will know how much you can shim the springs for additional clamping force if needed.
Did you remove the snap ring and replace the inside friction plate with a full plate?
Snap ring gone and full plate used.
My lever feels bang on now with my replacement springs.
Great!
Awesome! Hope to hear good news from the dyno and track!
Rode the big Yam and the Cb1100, 500 metres down thr Road to the paddock of my local road race.
There was a dyno set up there as is the norm.
The 1250 is putting out 141bhp and 89.9 ft/lb of torque.
It was a very warm day, as in one of the warmest in 100 years.
The Cb put out 134bhp and 84 torque.
Thanks for the dyno info. it's interesting. On your XJ1250 you were looking for 140, looks like you got it.
Remind me, on your XJ motor, are those cylinders sleeved or the stock Niksil plated bores?
To recap, on the power side you have 38mm RS flatslides, Stage 1 Yoshi cams, 4 into 1 header and a Dyna ignition, correct?
Are you happy with the A/F fueling? The XJ looks fine....but something looks wonky on your CB.
Yes Pat,
It's actually an xjr1300 engine with an fj1100 head, with the other bits.
That was the Hondas first run on a new engine.
Drop the needle and up one size main and she'll be right.
They both make lots of torque early and it hangs on for quite a while.
Excellent! :yahoo: