This should be so simple but I've yet to find a satisfactory tire gauge for the FJ, well probably for my previous motorcycle either. Because of the angle they use, the pencil type hit against the brake disc or a spoke unless I bend the valve stem unnaturally. I've had the most satisfaction from a compact digital because it fits in there and doesn't need much pressure to hit the valve, but the display times out before I can pull the gauge back out where I can read it.
I guess I might have to get a bulky one with a hose and that dial they surround with a baby tractor tire but they've still got a bad angle and applying steady pressure to get a good reading is a chore.
I use one like this. (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41KRnA1XDPL._AC_US218_.jpg) (https://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-PSI-Dial-Tire-Gauge/dp/B00070KA5I/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1534084984&sr=8-23&keywords=tire+pressure+gauge)
It holds the pressure reading till you release it. I also have a cheap digital one that displays long enough, so they are out there.
Just realized that if I click on the image of the gauge it takes me to Amazon so I can purchase it. Nice!! Rich
I carry one of those that has the tractor tire around it. It works well for me. I got mine at Cycle Gear.
Fred
Quote from: Charlie-brm on August 12, 2018, 09:40:14 AM
This should be so simple but I've yet to find a satisfactory tire gauge for the FJ, well probably for my previous motorcycle either. Because of the angle they use, the pencil type hit against the brake disc or a spoke unless I bend the valve stem unnaturally. I've had the most satisfaction from a compact digital because it fits in there and doesn't need much pressure to hit the valve, but the display times out before I can pull the gauge back out where I can read it.
Charlie,
Screw all the gauges and hoses, just get a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) for bikes and glance at it before each ride. I mean really, how many riders here check both tire pressures after
every gas or piss stop? Most TPMS will have alarms for low tire pressure (whatever pressure you set), and automatic shut-downs when not riding. Whether you get internal or external sensors for each wheel, make sure you get a system that uses replaceable batteries (some early TPMS had sensors that you had to throw away when the battery died).
Quote from: aviationfred on August 12, 2018, 12:45:01 PM
I carry one of those that has the tractor tire around it. It works well for me. I got mine at Cycle Gear.
Fred
Nice. That doesn't have extra useless bulk on the housing like the ones I mean. Another distinguishing feature is the head for the valve is at 90 degrees to the hose, not straight inline like most of this type. I like the limited pressure range for the detail. The only unfortunate thing is that most of the search hits are to Amazon and it shows "Discontinued" and at Cycle Gear it is sold out. No Google hits to a Stockton company.
I found a pencil type in the mean time that has the usual angle and a reverse angle fitting i.e. like a hook, so you pull back on the gauge when it's over the valve. My inflater has that dual end and it works well.
More importantly, I got in over 6 hours of riding today. Got to cram it all in this month before the doctors tell me to take it easy and no riding for maybe the rest of the season. Geez, we just sit on these things. It's not like we're pedaling. :)
We use this gauge for our race cars as well as the fj's for most of my forty years of racing. We would get a new one at least once a year since we used the heck out of them including bouncing them off the ground.
http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1716&prodid=7313&pagetitle=Basic-2 (http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1716&prodid=7313&pagetitle=Basic-2)"-Tire-Gauge
I don't think you'll be disappointed.
Randy - RPM
Why not fit 90 degree valves? They can be fitted without taking the wheel off, just break the bead and push the tyre aside and insert. Screw the nut on, inflate and off you go. Ten minute job if you have the right tools and takes the hassle out of inflating and reading the pressures.
Regards, Pete.
That is a bummer that the Stockton digital gauge is out of stock. Here is another option.
https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-tire-air-pressure-gauge-with-hose (https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-tire-air-pressure-gauge-with-hose)
Fred
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 12, 2018, 09:39:43 PM
We use this gauge for our race cars as well as the fj's for most of my forty years of racing. We would get a new one at least once a year since we used the heck out of them including bouncing them off the ground.
http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1716&prodid=7313&pagetitle=Basic-2 (http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1716&prodid=7313&pagetitle=Basic-2)"-Tire-Gauge
I don't think you'll be disappointed.
Randy - RPM
I have also had excellent experience with the Longacre gauges
Quote from: oldktmdude on August 12, 2018, 09:55:10 PM
Why not fit 90 degree valves? They can be fitted without taking the wheel off, just break the bead and push the tyre aside and insert. Screw the nut on, inflate and off you go. Ten minute job if you have the right tools and takes the hassle out of inflating and reading the pressures.
Regards, Pete.
You're absolutely right Pete, problem solved, but don't use the rubber ones. If you take a long time to wear out a front tyre or you don't remember to support the back of the valve stem while pushing gauge or inflator over it, you can damage the valve.
This front tyre fully deflated at high speed on a short straight between two fast corners. By the time I came to rest, as quickly as the rear brake would stop me, the tyre was dead flat.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2941/33529323371_30c220846a_c.jpg)
Weird thing here is that the valve was near new ( I replace them with every tyre change), I don't use a tyre gauge on it, I always support it from behind when inflating, I know the tyre guy well, it was an expensive Italian valve, not cheap Chinese.
As for a gauge, I use an old pencil type unit, I think it was my fathers. It has a lovely fluid like dampened action and the indicator doesn't flop around (like the new ones) it is all metal.
For a tyre inflator, I made my own, I have other wheels worse than the FJ to get to.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1795/29075131997_84d313aa29_c.jpg)
But, as Red said, TPMS is the way to go, I have it on two bikes and it has saved me considerable inconvenience many times and more importantly, saved my arse on a number of occasions in what could have spectacular spills after rapid or unnoticed air loss.
I have the sealed for life in-wheel senders that also send temperature. The lasted 7 years.
The most important feature of TPMS is to get a head unit that can be clearly read at a glance at speed in the sunlight and that excludes a surprising number of them. You want one that displays both tyre pressures 100% of the time, not something you have scroll to get to, like a phone app or some other multi function feature.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8098/29963681645_55086d3a95_c.jpg)
I'm not fussed about oil temp or pressure (nothing I can do about either one of them) but I do take great comfort in knowing my tyre pressures while travelling, particularly on the open road.
I've had mine a long time and they have probably come down in price and improved in features by now.
And while on the subject, carry a puncture kit at all times, check it annually ( the glue hardens and the plugs dry up) and if going out of town or on a trip, make sure your, or at least one person in your group has a compressor.
A flat tyre on a bike can really stuff your day up if you can't fix it roadside.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 13, 2018, 09:30:24 AMBut, as Red said, TPMS is the way to go, I have it on two bikes and it has saved me considerable inconvenience many times and more importantly, saved my arse on a number of occasions in what could have spectacular spills after rapid or unnoticed air loss. I have the sealed for life in-wheel senders that also send temperature. The lasted 7 years.
The most important feature of TPMS is to get a head unit that can be clearly read at a glance at speed in the sunlight and that excludes a surprising number of them. You want one that displays both tyre pressures 100% of the time, not something you have scroll to get to, like a phone app or some other multi function feature. A flat tyre on a bike can really stuff your day up if you can't fix it roadside.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8098/29963681645_55086d3a95_c.jpg (https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8098/29963681645_55086d3a95_c.jpg)
Noel
.
Also, if you want to keep things looking simpler, some GPS units have a TPMS capability now. The GPS unit which you own may have that feature, or it may be available from the manufacturer as a software or firmware upgrade. Then all you need will be the compatible sensors for the wheels, and the GPS maker can advise on that part.
.
Quote from: ribbert on August 13, 2018, 09:30:24 AM
Quote from: oldktmdude on August 12, 2018, 09:55:10 PM
Why not fit 90 degree valves?
Regards, Pete.
You're absolutely right Pete, problem solved, but don't use the rubber ones. If you take a long time to wear out a front tyre or you don't remember to support the back of the valve stem while pushing gauge or inflator over it, you can damage the valve.
This front tyre fully deflated at high speed on a short straight between two fast corners. By the time I came to rest, as quickly as the rear brake would stop me, the tyre was dead flat.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2941/33529323371_30c220846a_c.jpg)
Noel
Like these all metal 90* stems available in both silver and black:
10mm Aluminum Valve Stem 90* (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS)
(http://www.rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%2010mmAVS-1.jpg)
I personally use the
Garmin Zumo 595LM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Garmin%3A595LM) with the TPMS and it works great.
Randy - RPM
Also, if you want to keep things looking simpler, some GPS units have a TPMS capability now.
[/quote]
I looked into that recently, I think you have to scroll to the read out though. That be enough for some and as you say, a neater look.
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 13, 2018, 10:10:58 AM
I personally use the Garmin Zumo 595LM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Garmin%3A595LM) with the TPMS and it works great.
Randy - RPM
Randy, does the readout show up on the map page or do you have switch pages?
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on August 13, 2018, 10:20:55 AM
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 13, 2018, 10:10:58 AM
I personally use the Garmin Zumo 595LM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Garmin%3A595LM) with the TPMS and it works great.
Randy - RPM
Randy, does the readout show up on the map page or do you have switch pages?
Noel
The actual pressure readings are on a separate page. If & when a tire is/goes low on pressure, there is a big red warning that pops up over the map and stays there until cleared off the screen. It then keeps the red warning indicator off to the side of the map until the problem is resolved.
Randy - RPM
A couple of Q's on the Garmin TPMS valve cap transmitters:
Do you unscrew the valve cap to add air to the tire?
Do you need straight short metal tire valve stems or can you use these Garmin caps on your 90* angled valve stem?
With the added weight of the Garmin valve cap, I worry about the centrifugal loads (at speed) cracking the 90* stem.
I prefer the internal transmitters for TPMS. Just a gut feeling. I have no problem changing the batteries at every other tire change.
I keep thinking, the only thing holding back the air pressure is that Schrader valve. Holding that Schrader valve open for air pressure monitoring makes me nervous. With the Garmin cap, the only thing that keeps air escaping are the threads on the tire stem and perhaps an o ring. This, on a cap you remove and reinstall every time you add air to the tire.
It's just me. Call me nervous Nellie.
I do love the idea of the combined GPS/TPMS functions.
Answers in
red below
Randy - RPM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 13, 2018, 12:11:21 PM
A couple of Q's on the Garmin TPMS valve cap transmitters:
Do you unscrew the valve cap to add air to the tire? Yes
Do you need straight short metal tire valve stems or can you use these Garmin caps on your 90* angled valve stem? I have been using them on my 90* stems without issue since I installed those Shinko tires three plus years ago...I finally wore those babies out.
With the added weight of the Garmin valve cap, I worry about the centrifugal loads (at speed) cracking the 90* stem. I believe Rick is/was running the heavier metal "Ride On LED Smart Tire Valve Caps" (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A85-4210) on his FJ. Not sure if they are on the new bike, but I know they were on the old bike that was lost to fire.
I prefer the internal transmitters for TPMS. Just a gut feeling. I have no problem changing the batteries at every other tire change. I do have access to a set of BLU TPMS Internal Sensor System (http://www.wpsorders.com/wpsonline/o2CATLG4.pgm?PAGENO=134&CICID=ST) that will sync to your smart phone if you have a thought of going that route which was presented in this post: Blowhard (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17506.msg176491#msg176491)
I keep thinking, the only thing holding back the air pressure is that Schrader valve. Holding that Schrader valve open for air pressure monitoring makes me nervous. With the Garmin cap, the only thing that keeps air escaping are the threads on the tire stem and perhaps an o ring. This, on a cap you remove and reinstall every time you add air to the tire. I never had any issue with the tire leaking air out when the bike was in use. I did remove the caps when the bike would sit for any extended length of time and pull the batteries so they were not transmitting a signal all of the time and running the batteries dead.
It's just me. Call me nervous Nellie. Okay :rofl2:
I do love the idea of the combined GPS/TPMS functions.
Thanks Randy, on the internal transmitters for the Blu TPMS, did you ever find out the answer? (batteries replaceable?)
Quote from: racerrad8 on December 22, 2017, 06:28:13 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 22, 2017, 06:03:37 PM
Thanks Randy, the BLU internal system looks interesting.
Question: on the internal transmitters, are the batteries replaceable?
I will have to check with the salesman, I don't know. He is gone until after the first of the year, but I'll find out.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 13, 2018, 01:35:13 PM
Thanks Randy, on the internal transmitters for the Blu TPMS, did you ever find out the answer? (batteries replaceable?)
Sorry, I guess I forgot to update that information when the salesman told me. I just called him and he said he has forgotten as well. So, I called Blu directly just now.
No, the batteries are not replaceable on the Blu TPMS. They are sealed units that, according to Blu, depending on use will last between 4-6 years.
Randy - RPM
Ok, thanks Randy!
If or when Garmin ever offers an internal transmitter option (w/replaceable batteries) for their GPS/TPMS system, I will be first in line to buy one.
Thanks again!
Pat
I am with Pat and will pony up for an internal TPMS from Garmin.
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 13, 2018, 10:26:22 AM
The actual pressure readings are on a separate page. If & when a tire is/goes low on pressure, there is a big red warning that pops up over the map and stays there until cleared off the screen. It then keeps the red warning indicator off to the side of the map until the problem is resolved.
Randy - RPM
That sounds like a pretty good compromise and keeps the dash a little less cluttered.
Noel
I used the RPM LED versions, and I liked them. They would need occasional resetting, but they were nice to see you didn't have a low tire with a glance. I haven't put them on the new bike, but I may. I put the 90-degree aluminum valves on at an angle that makes access easy, and I like them a lot.
Quote from: oldktmdude on August 12, 2018, 09:55:10 PM
Why not fit 90 degree valves? They can be fitted without taking the wheel off, just break the bead and push the tyre aside and insert. Screw the nut on, inflate and off you go. Ten minute job if you have the right tools and takes the hassle out of inflating and reading the pressures.
Regards, Pete.
That sounds quicker than wearing my tyre out and then doing it, what lube would you use once you've installed 90° valves to get the bead to seal again? I've got the valves, got the Garmin, just need the Garmin TPMS
So this TEN minute job doesn't require taking the wheels off then :scratch_one-s_head: , otherwise I think its a mighty long TEN minutes
Cheers
Alan
Quote from: Sparky84 on August 14, 2018, 01:35:43 AM
Quote from: oldktmdude on August 12, 2018, 09:55:10 PM
Why not fit 90 degree valves? They can be fitted without taking the wheel off, just break the bead and push the tyre aside and insert. Screw the nut on, inflate and off you go. Ten minute job if you have the right tools and takes the hassle out of inflating and reading the pressures.
Regards, Pete.
That sounds quicker than wearing my tyre out and then doing it, what lube would you use once you've installed 90° valves to get the bead to seal again? I've got the valves, got the Garmin, just need the Garmin TPMS
So this TEN minute job doesn't require taking the wheels off then :scratch_one-s_head: , otherwise I think its a mighty long TEN minutes
Cheers
Alan
G'day Alan, wheel removal is not required, break the bead with a pair of quick grip clamps (I use Irwin brand) cut old tubeless valve stem off, fit 90* valve, spray with soapy water
or brush with tyre soap and re-inflate. Bring your 90* valves down to Troy's shed day and I'll give you a demo.
Regards, Pete.
Quote from: oldktmdude on August 14, 2018, 06:38:31 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on August 14, 2018, 01:35:43 AM
Quote from: oldktmdude on August 12, 2018, 09:55:10 PM
Why not fit 90 degree valves? They can be fitted without taking the wheel off, just break the bead and push the tyre aside and insert. Screw the nut on, inflate and off you go. Ten minute job if you have the right tools and takes the hassle out of inflating and reading the pressures.
Regards, Pete.
That sounds quicker than wearing my tyre out and then doing it, what lube would you use once you've installed 90° valves to get the bead to seal again? I've got the valves, got the Garmin, just need the Garmin TPMS
So this TEN minute job doesn't require taking the wheels off then :scratch_one-s_head: , otherwise I think its a mighty long TEN minutes
Cheers
Alan
G'day Alan, wheel removal is not required, break the bead with a pair of quick grip clamps (I use Irwin brand) cut old tubeless valve stem off, fit 90* valve, spray with soapy water
or brush with tyre soap and re-inflate. Bring your 90* valves down to Troy's shed day and I'll give you a demo.
Regards, Pete.
G'day Pete,
Mate I've only got a couple of the Vise Grip brand of Quick Grips so they mighten do it then...
Do you just angle the 90's straight out to the side or angled back just a touch so you can still get air hose on?
If I have trouble or don't get time and I do make it on the Saturday, I'll definitely bring them down and the Quick Grips.
Cheers
Alan
Just my $.02 worth, but if you use angled valve stems, they must face valve-forward when the valve stem is closest to the ground, and completely miss the caliper when the wheel is rotating. If the angled valve stem hits the caliper then, that minor impact would rotate the valve stem slightly, but maybe not do major damage. If the valve stem faces the wrong way and hits the caliper head-on with the valve cap when the wheel is rotating, that mishap could shear off the valve stem entirely, for an instant flat tire.
.
Front
(https://i.imgur.com/2ahP85P.jpg)
Rear
(https://i.imgur.com/WxHbvlG.jpg)
Thanks Rick,
Mate did you paint them? and what with if you did?
I think mine are just plain alloy colour and it would be good to have them black.
Now to find some tyre soap and not 5kg of it, might go and see my local tyre mob and take a container
Cheers
Alan
Yep, just as Rick shows, plenty of clearance on the 90* valve stems when they point to the side.
Because my bike leans to the left when on its side stand, I point the valve stems to the right. Makes adding air easier.
RPM sells the 90* valve stems in black: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS)
A note of caution when ordering the valve stems from anywhere else besides RPM. Make sure the stems are for a 10 mm hole, the correct size hole on the Yamaha rims.
Several years ago (before RPM offered them) I bought some 90* stems off FleaBay and they were for a 8 mm hole. I think I still have them somewhere in my parts bin.
Mine came black. RPM has both I think. Good advice by Pat regarding right side access.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 14, 2018, 05:21:09 PM
Yep, just as Rick shows, plenty of clearance on the 90* valve stems when they point to the side.
Because my bike leans to the left when on its side stand, I point the valve stems to the right. Makes adding air easier.
RPM sells the 90* valve stems in black: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS)
A note of caution when ordering the valve stems from anywhere else besides RPM. Make sure the stems are for a 10 mm hole, the correct size hole on the Yamaha rims.
That's a good point angled towards the right and I don't think I've ever topped the tyres up from the left even when at home on the centre stand, just habit.
They are RPM (where Else) but for some reason I think they are just plain anodised, I do have to find them in my box of RPM accessories.
How tight do you do them up?
Cheers
Alan
Alan
My angled alloy vales stems are attached with a nut on the inside of the rim. There is a rubber washer on each side of the rim to make an air tight seal.
By going to the right they are pointed uphill and easier to access with air gauges. It also negates having to go around the drive chain
Mark
The valves I use are chrome finished brass, the nut fits from the outside with rubber sealing washers, top and bottom. No need to over tighten them as the washers are soft and do not require a lot of pressure to seal. Just a turn or so after finger tight. Never had one leak or come loose in over 7 or 8 years that I have been using them. Got them on all of my bikes.
Regards, Pete.
In my years of riding, I have ony ever seen/heard of 1 failing, with zero issues of the wheel being out of balance. If the tyre guy is doing his job, this should never be an issue.
I've got steel ones on mine but have them facing left. I always check my tyre pressures on the centre stand so I can easily spin the wheels to line the valve up, and when at a servo I have myself between the bike and kerb not the other side where some cockwad in a car could run into you. The chain is avoided easy enough.
Quote from: Bones on August 15, 2018, 01:51:33 AM
I've got steel ones on mine but have them facing left. I always check my tyre pressures on the centre stand so I can easily spin the wheels to line the valve up, and when at a servo I have myself between the bike and kerb not the other side where some cockwad in a car could run into you. The chain is avoided easy enough.
I have mine facing towards to left also, for the same reasons you have outlined.
Quote from: Sparky84 on August 14, 2018, 10:34:08 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 14, 2018, 05:21:09 PM
Yep, just as Rick shows, plenty of clearance on the 90* valve stems when they point to the side.
Because my bike leans to the left when on its side stand, I point the valve stems to the right. Makes adding air easier.
RPM sells the 90* valve stems in black: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A10mmAVS)
A note of caution when ordering the valve stems from anywhere else besides RPM. Make sure the stems are for a 10 mm hole, the correct size hole on the Yamaha rims.
That's a good point angled towards the right and I don't think I've ever topped the tyres up from the left even when at home on the centre stand, just habit.
They are RPM (where Else) but for some reason I think they are just plain anodised, I do have to find them in my box of RPM accessories.
How tight do you do them up?
Cheers
Alan
Check the link. There is a drop down color selection. Choose black or standard. I tightened the nut on the inside with a small wrench, but only tight enough to compress the rubber seal, and tight enough that I can't rotate the valve by hand from the outside.