I have been search the site but haven't been able to find an answer to my question. What year R1 callipers will fit on the FJ? Does the master cylinder need changed? 
Sorry in advance. 
The impetus for this question is that the Fj broke down and I ended up riding my dad's Bandit home and the brakes were incredible.  
			
			
			
				Quote from: Greg C on June 18, 2018, 04:27:51 PMI have been search the site but haven't been able to find an answer to my question. What year R1 callipers will fit on the FJ? Does the master cylinder need changed?  Sorry in advance.  The impetus for this question is that the Fj broke down and I ended up riding my dad's Bandit home and the brakes were incredible.  
Greg,
No need for apologies.   :yes:   There's a better way to search than the on-board Search utility.  
I do not know the direct and complete answer to your question, but many riders here would recommend using two stainless steel-braided brake hoses to replace the fading old stock rubber hoses.  You can get a double-hose banjo bolt for the front brake master cylinder, to fit these hoses.  You probably do want new front brake lines by now, so you may decide that the calipers were never really the problem anyway, with new SS brake hoses.  Any decent hydraulics shop can make the new hoses for you, and they should have translucent color-tinted sheathing for these steely hoses as well.  You may find pre-made brake hoses on-line, too, but they could be pricey, with shipping.
You can tell Google to search any one site, rather than the entire Internet, if you use the 
SITE: command.  At the Search line on the Google web page, type in what you want to find, hit the spacebar,  then type in 
SITE: and the target URL.  It would look about like this:
Yamaha [R1] caliper SITE:http://www.fjowners.com
The [box] brackets are helpful too, telling Google that the results MUST include any such bracketed terms.  For your search, R1 calipers on this forum will probably get results related to what you want to see.
Happy hunting . . . 
			
 
			
			
				Yamaha used the same basic Blue dot calipers on multiple bikes of the same era. R1, FZ1, R6, FZ6 and FJR's used Blue, gold and silver dots. I believe the gold and silver dots differ, in that they use aluminum pistons versus steel pistons. Here are a few links to calipers that will work.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/09-Yamaha-FZ1-Front-Brake-Calipers-76A/152806128266?hash=item2393f47a8a:g:O-gAAOSw241YlUEI (https://m.ebay.com/itm/09-Yamaha-FZ1-Front-Brake-Calipers-76A/152806128266?hash=item2393f47a8a:g:O-gAAOSw241YlUEI)
https://m.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-YAMAHA-YZF-R1-RIGHT-LEFT-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-SET-PAIR-CALIPERS-W-PA6DS/253614403212?hash=item3b0c98ae8c:g:rIUAAOSwxuha9G7W (https://m.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-YAMAHA-YZF-R1-RIGHT-LEFT-FRONT-BRAKE-CALIPER-SET-PAIR-CALIPERS-W-PA6DS/253614403212?hash=item3b0c98ae8c:g:rIUAAOSwxuha9G7W)
This last set comes with the attached master cylinder. Add a set of dual brake lines and you will have great brakes.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/03-09-2009-Yamaha-Fazer-FZ6S-600-front-brake-master-cylinder-calipers-brake-oem/173367730684?hash=item285d85a1fc:g:WDcAAOSw03lY6CbZ (https://m.ebay.com/itm/03-09-2009-Yamaha-Fazer-FZ6S-600-front-brake-master-cylinder-calipers-brake-oem/173367730684?hash=item285d85a1fc:g:WDcAAOSw03lY6CbZ)
RPM sells the 2 line set up that eliminates the splitter. And the ends are rotatable to prevent any twist preload on the lines. A dual banjo bolt will be needed at the master cylinder.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=S-YA0146&cat=39 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=S-YA0146&cat=39)
Fred
			
			
			
				Quote from: Greg C on June 18, 2018, 04:27:51 PM
What year R1 callipers will fit on the FJ? Does the master cylinder need changed? 
Short answer: Don't fixate on R-1 calipers. You want the Yamaha monoblock calipers, axial mount.
As Fred mentioned above, many other Yamaha models use the blue/gold/silver dot, 1 piece monoblock calipers, not just the YZF R-1. To answer your question YZF R-1 up to 2003 used axial mounted monoblock calipers. Starting in 2004 and after, they used radial mounted calipers. You want the axial mounted calipers. 
No, you do not NEED to up grade your master cylinder, however if you want the best feel from your front brakes, replace the FJ oem 5/8" (16mm) diameter piston m/c with a 15mm FJR m/c or even better, a 14mm m/c off the FZ-1 (and other models) The smaller piston, longer stroke m/c will give you much much better lever feel and control at braking threshold vs the larger piston/shorter stroke oem m/c piston.
What's good brakes without control?   The best brakes are meaningless without practice, practice, practice.
Here's more info. for you (this is a great site) http://www.fjmods.co.uk/BrakeUpgrades.htm (http://www.fjmods.co.uk/BrakeUpgrades.htm)
 Hope this helps.   Pat
			
 
			
			
				Thank you everyone! 
			
			
			
				So, after all of the advice I received I ended up going with 2001 FZ1 front callipers (got the set for a whopping $38 shipped) and a 2012 FJR master cylinder ($20 shipped). I already had the steel braided lines as I had planned on replacing the 28 year-old lines anyway. I have everything mounted up, bled, and it really stops now. As I changed so much at once it's hard to know how much difference each component made on it's own. I'm sure the new lines help a lot. I am really happy with the change (and that I had very little money wrapped up in parts). 
The only issue I've run into is that the FJR master cylinder brake light switch seems to be wired completely opposite the FJ switch and the old FJ switch doesn't fit the FJR master cylinder. Does anyone know a fix for this?
Thanks!
Greg
			
			
			
				You need to either reinstall the original brakeline mounts that were held in place by the fender bolts or add some like sized washers where the mounts were.  
Otherwise your fender tabs are going to crack
			
			
			
				QuoteThe only issue I've run into is that the FJR master cylinder brake light switch seems to be wired completely opposite the FJ switch and the old FJ switch doesn't fit the FJR master cylinder. Does anyone know a fix for this?
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20BrakeLightSwitch-1.jpg)
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ABrakeLightSwitch&cat=23 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ABrakeLightSwitch&cat=23)
			
 
			
			
				Thank you for that suggestion! 
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on June 25, 2018, 02:54:13 PM
You need to either reinstall the original brakeline mounts that were held in place by the fender bolts or add some like sized washers where the mounts were.  
Otherwise your fender tabs are going to crack
			 
			
			
				Quote from: ZOA NOM on June 25, 2018, 02:57:44 PM
QuoteThe only issue I've run into is that the FJR master cylinder brake light switch seems to be wired completely opposite the FJ switch and the old FJ switch doesn't fit the FJR master cylinder. Does anyone know a fix for this?
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20BrakeLightSwitch-1.jpg)
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ABrakeLightSwitch&cat=23 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ABrakeLightSwitch&cat=23)
Excellent!
			
 
			
			
				   Greg, if you haven't already done so, I suggest you fit EBC HH pads. These will probably make the biggest improvement out of all the mods you have already made, with the possible exception of the braided lines.
   Regards, Pete.    :good2:
			
			
			
				Quote from: oldktmdude on June 25, 2018, 06:22:17 PM
   Greg, if you haven't already done so, I suggest you fit EBC HH pads. These will probably make the biggest improvement out of all the mods you have already made, with the possible exception of the braided lines.
   Regards, Pete.    :good2:
Also available from our host...
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA123&cat=23 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFA123&cat=23)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20FA123-1.jpg)
			
 
			
			
				Yep, EBC HH pads are the bomb :good:
Remember, when switching pad compounds (e.g. organic to sintered) scrub the old transfer layer off your rotors.
Zip, zip with your cordless drill:
https://tinyurl.com/yatcr3s6
			
			
			
				Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on June 25, 2018, 02:54:13 PM
You need to either reinstall the original brakeline mounts that were held in place by the fender bolts or add some like sized washers where the mounts were.  
Otherwise your fender tabs are going to crack
WHEN your fender tabs crack, this stuff is bullet-proof. I've used it for several different repairs from the fairing to the fenders, and it is awesome.
https://www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/2501/ (https://www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/2501/)
(https://www.polyvance.com/images/products/2501-2.2.jpg)
			
 
			
			
				While we are spending your money.....
This will definitely help prevent fender tab cracks (and leaking fork seals)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20ForkBrace-1.jpg)
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace)
You realize Greg, we could keep going.....and going......and going....
Speaking about fork seals, now let's do something about protecting your stanchion tubes from rock chips and bugs...Unfortunately RPM's bug shields don't work with the RPM fork brace and you really, really want the fork brace.
Avation Fred has you covered: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14171.msg142954#msg142954 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14171.msg142954#msg142954)
			
			
			
				Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 25, 2018, 08:44:23 PM
While we are spending your money.....
This will definitely help prevent fender tab cracks (and leaking fork seals)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20ForkBrace-1.jpg)
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace)
You realize Greg, we could keep going.....and going......and going....
Speaking about fork seals, now let's do something about protecting your stanchion tubes from rock chips and bugs...Unfortunately RPM's bug shields don't work with the RPM fork brace and you really, really want the fork brace.
Avation Fred has you covered: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14171.msg142954#msg142954 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14171.msg142954#msg142954)
Yes, I'm starting to see the rabbit hole opening. ; ) 
			
 
			
			
				Might as well go the whole hog...
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMShock%2891-95%29 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMShock%2891-95%29)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20RPMShock(91-95)-1.jpg)
			
			
			
				Quote from: ZOA NOM on June 28, 2018, 01:27:24 AM
Might as well go the whole hog...
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMShock%2891-95%29 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMShock%2891-95%29)
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20RPMShock(91-95)-1.jpg)
Whole hog?!  That's just a nice pork chop!  There's plenty more to go!
			
 
			
			
				Does anyone have recommendations for pads to go with the gold dots?
I'm guessing they won't be the same as the 1990 non ABS calipers?
			
			
			
				R1 vs FJ...Nope they are different pads. 
I like EBC HH sintered pads in front Organic pads in back. 
			
			
			
				Thank you Pat!
Yeah I was late night shopping and ordered stock pads instead of the R1 pads  :dash2: 
			
			
			
				If you can't return them, list them here on the forum, someone will buy them. 
The oem FJ pads are organic...if you put on R-1 calipers and want to run organic pads fine, no problem.
However, if you want to change to sintered pads, you have to scrub off the old organic transfer layer on your rotors. (Both sides of the rotor) The organic/sintered layers are incompatible.
 If you don't, will your brakes work?  Yes, but not like they could...
Quick work with your cordless drill. Spin one way, light scrub, then spin the opposite way for a nice cross hatch. 
(https://fjowners.com/gallery/12/49_03_06_22_4_26_26.png)
The hardest part is flipping the rotors to get to the back side. 
 
			
			
			
				I will definitely look into that! 
I ended up warping a rotor from hitting a pretty good washout on a dirt road, it created a pretty good resonance with the handlebars when I take my hands off at about 50 mph. I put a dial on the wheel, tire mounted, and both rotors and the left side had pretty visible runout  :bomb: 
So I ended up ordering the pair of Arashi's that Fred had linked somewhere.. But I also a pair of the EBC sintered pads off of revzilla after your reply for the gold dots.
			
			
			
				You're golden. Fresh new rotors, new HH pads in R-1 calipers....
Doesn't get any better than that....  You're all set!