On Saterday,I bought another FJ.
The project on the ABS is taking longer than than I've anticipated.
Bike is in good condition,paid 1200 USD for it. I am the 3rd owner since new.
Has 58 000km on it.
Saturday afternoon when I want to start it,battery went dead. Luckely I got home without any issues.
Jumpstart it,but as soon as I switch on ignition,the negative jumper cable gots hot.
So I put charger on battery for 10 min. It started.
Took out multimeter,check over battery poles. Reading 11.72V ,even when reving around 4000RPM.
I swapped out altenators to check what reading is,with the ABS altenator,it shows 13.98V.
The red plug was stuck,had to clean it before putting other alternator in.
My question is:
Is the alternator toasted or is it just the regulator that went bad.
I don't know if the short circuit it created,is sign of totally scrap now. Had to change blown fuse also after realising it is alternator
Thanks
Hannes
Check both wires form the bike side at the red plug.
One should be constant battery voltage and the other keyed ignition switch battery voltage.
If you have the correct voltage at both wires, the alternator is the issue. If not fix the supply voltage issue first.
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy.
Since I swapped the 2 altenators,I had no issue so far.
What I forgot to mentioned was that it has a new battery in,PO bought it last month. Date is also engraved on battery,so I don't think it is battery related.
The short circuit when switching on bike(with jumper cables),is also gone since the altenator swap.
Maybe it was because of headlight coming on when switching ignition on,that I thought it was an short circuit.
But everything is fine now.
Hannes
Just a quick question,maybe even stupid as I think I know what the answer is going to be.
So here it goes:
When I start the FJ with choke when cold,headers 1and 3 stays cold,no heating up at all.
Can hear that it is not running on all 4 cylinders.
As soon as I "cancel" the choke,it run on all 4,all the headers are warm and idle smoothly.
Is that normal,because I can't remember or notice it on the ABS.
Hannes
Sure seems like blocked choke circuits. They have the smallest hole and clog up first.
No, it's not normal. Monkey has the answer for you.
The tiny orifice in the lower side of the float bowl is clogged. That's where the choke circuit draws fuel from.
Thanks guys.
Will pull the carbs next week then,this weekend I am going to attend a rally,so it have to wait until then.
To late to fix this.
Hannes
So,there it also happened to me this morning.
Start the FJ after about 2 weeks. Since I haven't got the 'time' to pull the carbs yet,I ignored the fact it is only on 2 cylinders when choke is out to warm up.
After about 3 minutes,I deactivate it and wait for the misfiring to go away,but it doesn't.
Long story short,I rode it to work,noticing it runs shit.
Stop at work and switch off. As I dismount,I smell petrol.
Look and what do I see...petrol pissing out of one of the overflow pipes untill the pressure is released in system(fuel pump).
Got home after work(rode it like that) and pulled the carbs off the bike.
Strip the bowls off and expect dirty carbs. Looks almost new inside,no dirt at all.
Dumbstruck I took out float to inspect the needles. Also new.
Then something caught my eye as I looked at the needle seats. Something white.
Remove the retaining clip,pull it out and gues what???
Some bloody idiot that work on the carbs,putt THREAD SEAL TAPE onto the needle seats. The o-rings was not replace,was brittle and hard and flush with the seat. Went loose into the carb body.
This is what pisses me off. Doing all the hard work and then do something like that.
Dumb f'king idiot.
Sorry for vending,but I am pissed as hell.
Quote from: aj52 on July 25, 2018, 04:48:01 PM
This is what pisses me off. Doing all the hard work and then do something like that.
Dumb f'king idiot.
Sorry for vending,but I am pissed as hell.
Deinde, ego te absolvo a peccatis tuis in nomine Patris, et Filii, + et Spiritus Sancti. Amen. :empathy: :drinks:
Some bloody idiot that work on the carbs,putt THREAD SEAL TAPE onto the needle seats. The o-rings was not replace,was brittle and hard and flush with the seat. Went loose into the carb body.
This is what pisses me off. Doing all the hard work and then do something like that.
Dumb f'king idiot.
Sorry for vending,but I am pissed as hell.
You will find that THIS is the reason a lot of us drink. and why a lot of us do our own work on the bikes. :dash2:
If you met us all we would look like a bunch of old farts.....we are all in our 20's actually, fixing bike issues just makes us look older.
Mark
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 25, 2018, 11:33:16 PM
You will find that THIS is the reason a lot of us drink. and why a lot of us do our own work on the bikes. :dash2:
If you met us all we would look like a bunch of old farts.....we are all in our 20's actually, fixing bike issues just makes us look older.
Mark
Speak for yourself Mark, :ireful:
I can't afford anybody else to work on my bike.. they'd charge more than my 0$/hr :good: and
I'm older than 20's, I'm past 30 and proud of it (actually didn't think I'd get this far) :yahoo:
You will find that THIS is the reason a lot of us drink. and why a lot of us do our own work on the bikes. :dash2:
If you met us all we would look like a bunch of old farts.....we are all in our 20's actually, fixing bike issues just makes us look older. :rofl2:
Mark
Thanks Mark. I was wondering why I was looking so much older!
Dave
Quote from: Sparky84 on July 26, 2018, 12:30:56 AM
Quote from: Urban_Legend on July 25, 2018, 11:33:16 PM
You will find that THIS is the reason a lot of us drink. and why a lot of us do our own work on the bikes. :dash2:
If you met us all we would look like a bunch of old farts.....we are all in our 20's actually, fixing bike issues just makes us look older.
Mark
Speak for yourself Mark, :ireful:
I can't afford anybody else to work on my bike.. they'd charge more than my 0$/hr :good: and
I'm older than 20's, I'm past 30 and proud of it (actually didn't think I'd get this far) :yahoo:
I'll tell you what, I can't afford to have anyone else, or myself work on my bike :rofl: if I pay someone, I'm gonna pay more than I can afford, if I do it myself, I'm gonna break more than I can afford :lol:
I drink because of carb floats.
:diablo:
Those stupid things are enough to make me want to actually invest the money into an EFI setup....
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 26, 2018, 10:14:08 AM
I'm gonna pay more than I can afford, if I do it myself, I'm gonna break more than I can afford :lol:
Naaaa Give yourself some credit. Most folks would have walked away from their FJ if what happened to you, happened to them.
Not you young man!
I really admire that...
Cheers
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate... protect those kidneys!
I've completely strip the carbs today.
Remove every that could been stripped out.
Clean it thoroughly inside out,every channel.
I've found the reason also for the choke problem that it had.
The 2 cylinders that didn't kicked in when starting with choke,had an blockage at that tiny hole in float bowls.
It was completely blocked up. Not even the carb cleaner worked to unblock it.
I soaked it in degreaser for about an hour and use nozzle cleaner set to get that blockage open.
Tomorrow it is float level time. Hope it will go well and get it right quickly.
Put the carbs back today .
Still leaking on the same carb. So it wasn't the thread seal tape that caused the leak.
I removed 2 other float bowls just to verify float levels. The others had more fuel in the bowls than the one causing the leak. So it's not float level.
I went on PO's word the day I bought it that carbs was serviced,but clearly he lied about it.
So new sets of carb kits for me now.
Common cause: Fuel leaking past the o rings on the float needle seats. Replace those.
If they are already new, they are easy to damage if installed incorrectly.
Replaced all the o rings everywhere there are o rings.
Found in files section the sizes of the o rings. For needle seat as per info there is 7mm by 1.5mm thick.
On that info it says to use 7.1mm by 1.6mm.
That is what I put in.
The other 3 seats that was also thread sealed,are also replaced.
I didn't mixed any parts,each carb has in what I've taking out of it.
The overflow began on 3 and after all the time spend by cleaning all the carbs,replacing all.the o rings and do float,the problem stays at 3.
This is way I came to the conclusion that it must be the needle or the needle seat itself.
The choke problem is sorted out,work now as it should
As series of questions....
Was there a wear ring in the rubber tip of the needle?
Is the spring loader plunger at the float tip stuck or working?
Was the bore(s) where the seat press is clean of all corrosion and/or pitting?
What did you set the float level to?
How did you check/set the float level?
Did you check both side of the floats?
Where is the fuel leaking from, they vent tube or the choke hose?
There are so many "little things" to ensure the carbies are "right"...
Here is a quote we got back today from a this member who we just built his carbs for who thought his FJ was running "right" before it.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 26, 2018, 10:14:08 AM
I'm gonna pay more than I can afford, if I do it myself, I'm gonna break more than I can afford :lol:
Hey Robert, I got the carbs on Tuesday, and just got a chance to mount them last night. The idle adjustment was annoying, but not nearly as hot as I was expecting. And I can see now what you mean by working fine, doesn't mean working right. The bike positively purrs. I hit 7k without breaking a sweat. Everything seems to be working great, including now my throttle actually snaps closed (never really did before) and the choke finally runs smooth.
I appreciate all the work! I am sure he will be along and give his full thought and impressions.
Randy - RPM
Hi Randy
Honestly,I didn't check for wear on rubber tip or pitting on the seat itself.
I thought it was the thread seal tape that PO or who ever it was,put onto the seat with the o ring into it's place.
So I checked all the o rings and found some to be hard and perished.
Floats I've done the way you said it should be done in files section. The one with photo's and where to measure it.
Yes,I've check both sides that it is the same height.
The carb that leaks through the tube has a slightly lower fuel level as compeared to 2 other bowls.
Did you separate the carb bodies?
I cleaned and replaced everything but left them together and when I bench tested with fuel to check for leaks I found fuel leaking from the pipes between them. But mine is 84 1100
(https://images2.imgbox.com/03/fa/mQofCcbw_o.jpg)
Quote from: aj52 on July 27, 2018, 03:21:21 PM
I went on PO's word the day I bought it that carbs was serviced,but clearly he lied about it.
Maybe he did have them serviced....and that's why we do a lot of our own stuff
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 27, 2018, 04:55:57 PM
As series of questions....
Was there a wear ring in the rubber tip of the needle?
Is the spring loader plunger at the float tip stuck or working?
Was the bore(s) where the seat press is clean of all corrosion and/or pitting?
What did you set the float level to?
How did you check/set the float level?
Did you check both side of the floats?
Where is the fuel leaking from, they vent tube or the choke hose?
There are so many "little things" to ensure the carbies are "right"...
Here is a quote we got back today from a this member who we just built his carbs for who thought his FJ was running "right" before it.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 26, 2018, 10:14:08 AM
I'm gonna pay more than I can afford, if I do it myself, I'm gonna break more than I can afford :lol:
Hey Robert, I got the carbs on Tuesday, and just got a chance to mount them last night. The idle adjustment was annoying, but not nearly as hot as I was expecting. And I can see now what you mean by working fine, doesn't mean working right. The bike positively purrs. I hit 7k without breaking a sweat. Everything seems to be working great, including now my throttle actually snaps closed (never really did before) and the choke finally runs smooth.
I appreciate all the work!
I am sure he will be along and give his full thought and impressions.
Randy - RPM
For sure, dollar for dollar, having RPM do the carbs up the right way was by and far the best money I've spent on this bike so far. Mind you, i know nothing about how to actually fix the carbs, but Im going to do a post on what was found/fixed ect. OP, if you send the carbs to RPM, They will be done RIGHT.
Quote from: Sparky84 on July 27, 2018, 05:48:25 PM
Did you separate the carb bodies?
I cleaned and replaced everything but left them together and when I bench tested with fuel to check for leaks I found fuel leaking from the pipes between them. But mine is 84 1100
(https://images2.imgbox.com/03/fa/mQofCcbw_o.jpg)
Quote from: aj52 on July 27, 2018, 03:21:21 PM
I went on PO's word the day I bought it that carbs was serviced,but clearly he lied about it.
Maybe he did have them serviced....and that's why we do a lot of our own stuff
Yes I did split it.
Change all the o rings on that fittings,8 in total.
The 4 on the T-fitting
The 4 on the 2 plastic fittings
All 4 needle seats
All 4 of the air mixer screw,that very small o rings.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 27, 2018, 05:52:57 PM
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 27, 2018, 04:55:57 PM
As series of questions....
Was there a wear ring in the rubber tip of the needle?
Is the spring loader plunger at the float tip stuck or working?
Was the bore(s) where the seat press is clean of all corrosion and/or pitting?
What did you set the float level to?
How did you check/set the float level?
Did you check both side of the floats?
Where is the fuel leaking from, they vent tube or the choke hose?
There are so many "little things" to ensure the carbies are "right"...
Here is a quote we got back today from a this member who we just built his carbs for who thought his FJ was running "right" before it.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 26, 2018, 10:14:08 AM
I'm gonna pay more than I can afford, if I do it myself, I'm gonna break more than I can afford :lol:
Hey Robert, I got the carbs on Tuesday, and just got a chance to mount them last night. The idle adjustment was annoying, but not nearly as hot as I was expecting. And I can see now what you mean by working fine, doesn't mean working right. The bike positively purrs. I hit 7k without breaking a sweat. Everything seems to be working great, including now my throttle actually snaps closed (never really did before) and the choke finally runs smooth.
I appreciate all the work!
I am sure he will be along and give his full thought and impressions.
Randy - RPM
For sure, dollar for dollar, having RPM do the carbs up the right way was by and far the best money I've spent on this bike so far. Mind you, i know nothing about how to actually fix the carbs, but Im going to do a post on what was found/fixed ect. OP, if you send the carbs to RPM, They will be done RIGHT.
I wish I could do just that,send it to RPM.
I was gonna ask why cant you, then i saw your location. I get it now haha. Best of luck sorting it then...
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 27, 2018, 07:11:04 PM
I was gonna ask why cant you, then i saw your location. I get it now haha. Best of luck sorting it then...
With our post office here,I will either never receive it or get it back over a year's time,ready for a new rebuild.
Thanks for the encouragement,sounds as if I going to need lots of it.
I am.going to follow Randy's questions he asked me as a guideline to check everything tomorrow.
Quote from: racerrad8 on July 27, 2018, 04:55:57 PM
As series of questions....
Was there a wear ring in the rubber tip of the needle?
Is the spring loader plunger at the float tip stuck or working?
Was the bore(s) where the seat press is clean of all corrosion and/or pitting?
What did you set the float level to?
How did you check/set the float level?
Did you check both side of the floats?
Where is the fuel leaking from, they vent tube or the choke hose?
There are so many "little things" to ensure the carbies are "right"...
Here is a quote we got back today from a this member who we just built his carbs for who thought his FJ was running "right" before it.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 26, 2018, 10:14:08 AM
I'm gonna pay more than I can afford, if I do it myself, I'm gonna break more than I can afford :lol:
Hey Robert, I got the carbs on Tuesday, and just got a chance to mount them last night. The idle adjustment was annoying, but not nearly as hot as I was expecting. And I can see now what you mean by working fine, doesn't mean working right. The bike positively purrs. I hit 7k without breaking a sweat. Everything seems to be working great, including now my throttle actually snaps closed (never really did before) and the choke finally runs smooth.
I appreciate all the work!
I am sure he will be along and give his full thought and impressions.
Randy - RPM
Randy
It leaks at the #3 carb out of the thin hose(choke vent tube hose).
It only leaks when the fuel pump is running. If I switch ignition off,the leak then stops.
If read a post now of someone in 2013 that FJmonkey(Mark) went over to help that had the same problem(guy went down with his FJ).
There you replied that it is the needle seat not sealing or o-ring bad.
Since I totally stripped and cleaned all 4 carbs completely,it can't be that it is dirty inside.
I will check the condition of the needle tip and the seat itself as you mentioned.
Hannes
Connect a clear tube to the float bowl drain screw, bend the tube so it's pointing up next to the float bowl gasket line, open the drain a few turns and use that to see what the actual fuel level in the bowl is while the fuel pump is on.
:morning2:
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 28, 2018, 08:05:09 PM
Connect a clear tube to the float bowl drain screw, bend the tube so it's pointing up next to the float bowl gasket line, open the drain a few turns and use that to see what the actual fuel level in the bowl is while the fuel pump is on.
Thanks for the tip,will check it like that prior putting it back
Took the bowl of today and remove the float.
And what do I see....there sits the o-ring piece that sheared off when I installed it,fine piece as the carb body cut it.
Other thing I saw was that the rubber tip has a 'ring' where it seals.
Thanks for everyone that gave their inputs and special to Randy for pointing out for what to look for.
Is like he said,there are small things to look out for.
Hannes
Glad to hear you were able to find it!
I called it...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 27, 2018, 03:38:19 PM
Common cause: Fuel leaking past the o rings on the float needle seats. Replace those.
If they are already new, they are easy to damage if installed incorrectly.
Jelly donuts for meeee :dance2:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 29, 2018, 04:10:22 PM
I called it...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 27, 2018, 03:38:19 PM
Common cause: Fuel leaking past the o rings on the float needle seats. Replace those.
If they are already new, they are easy to damage if installed incorrectly.
Jelly donuts for meeee :dance2:
There you go Pat,thanks a lot
Hannes
Lubricating "o rings" with rubber grease or other suitable lube should stop this kind of damage whilst installing "o ringed" items.
Regards, Pete. :good2:
I bought a gallon of RUGLYDE from the local NAPA store. Rubber lube for everything from mounting tires on rims to o-ring installation. A gallon will last about 7 life times. :biggrin:
This was the first one I've put in.I should've use oil.on it,but didn't. The other 3 I did,because I've felt the first one was a bit hard to assemble. So actually I should have known that it sheared. Learned my lesson on o-ring installation.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 28, 2018, 08:05:09 PM
Connect a clear tube to the float bowl drain screw, bend the tube so it's pointing up next to the float bowl gasket line, open the drain a few turns and use that to see what the actual fuel level in the bowl is while the fuel pump is on.
Should the carbs be at 90° when doing this.
And what height should the fuel be in the bowls when filled up
I'm going to use same method to set the floats as I've done it the first time as describe by Randy's post in the files section
Hannes
Quote from: aj52 on July 30, 2018, 05:31:08 PM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on July 28, 2018, 08:05:09 PM
Connect a clear tube to the float bowl drain screw, bend the tube so it's pointing up next to the float bowl gasket line, open the drain a few turns and use that to see what the actual fuel level in the bowl is while the fuel pump is on.
Should the carbs be at 90° when doing this.
And what height should the fuel be in the bowls when filled up
I'm going to use same method to set the floats as I've done it the first time as describe by Randy's post in the files section
Hannes
Please ignore,found my answer.
Lift front till carbs are level.
The height in tube should be at around 5mm from the top of bowl
Here's some pictures of mine.
Thank you Sparky :good2:
Quote from: aj52 on July 28, 2018, 05:16:22 PM
.......It only leaks when the fuel pump is running. If I switch ignition off,the leak then stops.
Hannes
I've had good success with persisitent carb leaks after full rebuilds with this......
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/928/43046832114_dbe430bfb4_c.jpg)
BeforePolishing out this divot
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/878/41007989492_eca722a13a_c.jpg)
AfterNoel
The angle of the carbs won't matter if you make the measurement at the approximate center of the float bowl.
The fuel level will pivot around a fixed point at the center of the bowl.
If the carbs are tilted forward, the level will be higher at the front and lower at the back, but at the center, it will not move.
Today I have put the 'original' carbs back on the non FJ.
They are not leaking anymore, so it was the o rings(read thread seal tape) on the seats that was the problem.
It lasted for 4 months like that before it started leaking.
Anyway, I almost forgot how the bike is supposed to go, nearly shit in my pants as it just never wants to stop going.
Just need to get the 3CV black box to derestrict it completely as it cuts out at 185km/h.
That JDM carbs are really bad, need to up the jets and derestrict it when the ABS is up and running. Not going to sit with that crap JDM carbs.
Hannes
Nice work Hannes. Its great when you fix up minor issues with the carbs and the ol girl comes alive.