I bought one of these from RPM...
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/Engine%20DGIU-1.jpg)
and bought some flat LED's... Four bright yellow, and one bright green.
(https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/timthumb.php?h=320&q=90&src=https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/b8-led-bulb-high-powered-instrument-panel.jpg&w=390&zc=2)
Ran the wires into one of the small vent holes on the cluster body. The orange wire was left out to connect to the existing neutral bulb.
(https://i.imgur.com/2DECvLd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/baCJKbA.jpg)
The results are very clean...
Neutral as always
(https://i.imgur.com/W8fYsAd.jpg)
1st Gear...
(https://i.imgur.com/eEwXngt.jpg)
2nd...
(https://i.imgur.com/v7tyxhB.jpg)
3rd...
(https://i.imgur.com/8yoF1DB.jpg)
4th...
(https://i.imgur.com/bv4Hw5D.jpg)
and 5th in green for quick peripheral confirmation that I don't need to try and find 6th...
(https://i.imgur.com/i5NZF19.jpg)
I will be looking at some more appropriate LED's that will be much easier to affix. These are held in place on the backside of the tach with tape for now. I intend to create a removable rigid LED holder that can be simply plugged in. What I really like is that I didn't have to modify the bike in any way, and it can be returned to stock without issue.
Very clever Rick, I just might do the same when I pull the cluster to fix the fuel gauge needle cap.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 09, 2018, 07:56:15 PM
Very clever Rick, I just might do the same when I pull the cluster to fix the fuel gauge needle cap.
There is ample room behind the tach on the 1-5 side. The five wires coming from the tranny switch are just grounds. I grabbed the 12v off the little lug on the back of the tach.
Super neat job Rick. Cool idea having the tach numbers light up to instantly tell your ratio. Double points for making a useful, relatively inexpensive dash mod.
My fuel gauge too Monkey. Suddenly fishing out that cap and needle looks almost worth the effort.
:good2: :hi:
Great, outside of the box thinking.
Fred
Awesome mod! I just started looking for LEDs......
Rick,
That is one ingenious modification! I would LOVE to add this feature to my FJ's. Would it be possible to provide us with a link to the LED's you used or are planning to use? What is the best way to affix the lights onto the tach?
Thanks
Dean
Thanks Rick! Very cool idea.
Our FJ's have such great low end torque it's easy to think this engine should cruise at 3k rpm.
Even after all this time, I wish I had a dollar for every time I looked for a 6th gear... still.
So now we have some options: 1) Rick's mod 2) Alf's mod and 3) Randy's gauge.
A very slick mod. I approve... :drinks:
Bill
gear indicator
Great solution with understatement, simple, easy, functional, cheap. Doesn't alter the bike's look at all. It can be used in any bike. Awesome. Thank you for showing your work.
But
I won't do it at my FJ, then it got only 5 gears. I can keep 5 numbers in my head. I notice when I am in 5th gear and I can check the combination of speed with the rpms to be sure in which gear my FJ rolls long before I try to upshift to the next gear the FJ does not have. If I still try to, nothing happens. The 5th gear still remains.
I also ride an old Honda GL 1200 Aspencade from 1986 with electronic dash and oem gear indicator that disturbs because I look at it more than needed taking time away from other things one should pay attention. I think it is psycological, you have it, you look at it. No need to. It is like it is saying look at me, I am here.
A similar problem are the digital numbers for speed and rpms. I have to see and read them more often than I have to see at traditional system. When I ride at about 80 it is ok when it shows 78 to 82. At the Honda I will normally see 79 and accelerate or see 82 and deccelerate. Why do I do this? It doesn't really make sense but I do it untill I tell me not to do it. That is why I prefer to keep the dash informations at a low, just needed, level and I will not ad anything that it is not really necessary.
This is my point of view and you have made a great job for people that want or need a gear indicator.
Greez
Efejota
Thanks everybody!
For those interested...
I searched forever for some flat LED's that could be affixed directly over the numeral on the back of the tach. I still haven't found exactly what I would like. I found these flat LEDs that come with a surround that I believe installs into a dash socket. I'm thinking of simply hot-gluing each LED to the back, but that's a one-way street. For now, just taping the group of wires seems to hold everything in place. I'll probably move towards making a small semi-circular pc board style socket for the LEDs that can just sit behind the tach.
(https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/timthumb.php?h=320&q=90&src=https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/b8-led-bulb-high-powered-instrument-panel.jpg&w=390&zc=2)
Superbrightleds.com (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/b8-led-bulb-smd-instrument-panel-led-car/223/)
They are cumbersome, but they fit. I had to do some intricate soldering to connect the five ground wires, and the one power lead to the common sides. They are polarity sensitive, as LED's are.
Efejota, I agree that less is more, but I can't tell you how many times I've tried to shift into 6th. I think the 5th gear in green will be easy to see without even looking down.
Question Rick: With the LED's behind the numbers 1 thru 5, does that change how you can you see those numbers at night?
i.e. If you're in 5th gear, are the numbers 1 thru 4 still visible at night?
That remains to be tested. It looks normal in the garage. I'll see how it works tonight.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 10, 2018, 06:20:27 PM
Question Rick: With the LED's behind the numbers 1 thru 5, does that change how you can you see those numbers at night?
i.e. If you're in 5th gear, are the numbers 1 thru 4 still visible at night?
Well, back to the drawing board... they're effectively dark compared to the 6-12, but I have an idea...
(https://i.imgur.com/xDt44rS.jpg)
It should be a simple modification to leave an "ambient" voltage (maybe 2v) applied to the LEDs so they stay on, but dim until the ground is applied from the appropriate gear. A resistor that drops most of the 12v should work. It could also help to use clear scotch tape instead of blue painters tape on the wires, Stay tuned...
Quote from: ZOA NOM on February 10, 2018, 07:59:36 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 10, 2018, 06:20:27 PMQuestion Rick: With the LED's behind the numbers 1 thru 5, does that change how you can you see those numbers at night? i.e. If you're in 5th gear, are the numbers 1 thru 4 still visible at night?
Well, back to the drawing board... they're effectively dark compared to the 6-12, but I have an idea...
ZOA NOM,
Just a suggestion, but I would get a sheet of clear hard plastic, maybe 1/4" (~6mm) thick, minimum. Cut out one semicircle to match (cover) the numbers 1-5 on the speedometer. Mount that curving strip of plastic as needed behind the numbers, then hot-glue the LEDs to the back of the plastic, located where they are now. You won't be gluing LEDs to the back of the speedometer, and you should get enough "instrument light" between the numbers and the LEDs to look normal, or almost normal. No added electrical work . . .
You have a fine idea there, it just needs a bit of tweaking. :yes:
Are the numbers on the lower half of the tach that important!?
I'm not worried about the tach at all unless I'm really getting on it - otherwise I'm spending my time and attention on looking for someone or something trying to kill me. I can tell the general rev range I'm in by the feel and sound.
Awesome mod - clever way to approach it!
Quote from: red on February 10, 2018, 09:00:10 PM
Quote from: ZOA NOM on February 10, 2018, 07:59:36 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 10, 2018, 06:20:27 PMQuestion Rick: With the LED's behind the numbers 1 thru 5, does that change how you can you see those numbers at night? i.e. If you're in 5th gear, are the numbers 1 thru 4 still visible at night?
Well, back to the drawing board... they're effectively dark compared to the 6-12, but I have an idea...
ZOA NOM,
Just a suggestion, but I would get a sheet of clear hard plastic, maybe 1/4" (~6mm) thick, minimum. Cut out one semicircle to match (cover) the numbers 1-5 on the speedometer. Mount that curving strip of plastic as needed behind the numbers, then hot-glue the LEDs to the back of the plastic, located where they are now. You won't be gluing LEDs to the back of the speedometer, and you should get enough "instrument light" between the numbers and the LEDs to look normal, or almost normal. No added electrical work . . .
You have a fine idea there, it just needs a bit of tweaking. :yes:
Great minds think alike... I'll be sure to post up the mod.
Quote from: fj1289 on February 10, 2018, 10:02:53 PM
Are the numbers on the lower half of the tach that important!?
I'm not worried about the tach at all unless I'm really getting on it - otherwise I'm spending my time and attention on looking for someone or something trying to kill me. I can tell the general rev range I'm in by the feel and sound.
Awesome mod - clever way to approach it!
I completely agree, but it's one of those nagging little things that just has to be fixed. The final version should be something easily plug and play so it isn't a mess. If I can get a simple, repeatable assembly that can just be married to RPM's cable, it should be a sweet mod for anyone.
Ok, try #2...
Started with some thin plexi and marked the arc and drilled some holes for regular LED's
(https://i.imgur.com/4DC5xRd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B91dMJD.jpg)
Slid some heat shrink over the LEDs to try and focus the light right on the digit.
(https://i.imgur.com/gq46MC6.jpg)
Took a heat gun to the ends and put an elevation bend to give room for the LEDs and the backlight.
(https://i.imgur.com/0KutmcO.jpg)
Fed all the wires through the same hole as before...
(https://i.imgur.com/HzyQasL.jpg)
Decided to go with an RJ-45 connector to allow easy disconnect...
(https://i.imgur.com/2cAMwRd.jpg)
Used the female RJ-45 to connect the cable...
(https://i.imgur.com/QfCKC8D.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hVa7wxr.jpg)
Works in the garage, waiting for dark...
From Page 1...
(https://i.imgur.com/i5NZF19.jpg)
Looks a lot better...
(https://i.imgur.com/YCQBQ8A.jpg)
Rick,
When will your gear indicator kits be ready for purchase? :smile:
Dean
Quote from: Tor-King on February 11, 2018, 08:17:43 PM
Rick,
When will your gear indicator kits be ready for purchase? :smile:
Dean
haha! I knew that would be asked... it needs some more refinement, but it's not out of the question...
That is freaking brilliant!!! I cant tell you how annoying it us to try and shift into sixth.... That is a great fix to something i didn't realize could be fixed! Awesome idea, and great execution. If you want to sell them, i will absolutely buy one. Or if not, ill just copy yours and make one haha.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on February 11, 2018, 09:06:45 PM
That is freaking brilliant!!! I cant tell you how annoying it us to try and shift into sixth.... That is a great fix to something i didn't realize could be fixed! Awesome idea, and great execution. If you want to sell them, i will absolutely buy one. Or if not, ill just copy yours and make one haha.
The idea is open source, please use it!
Thank you Rick!
After all the questions and comments are made, can I save this mod over in the Mod Files?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 11, 2018, 11:55:04 PM
Thank you Rick!
After all the questions and comments are made, can I save this mod over in the Mod Files?
Absolutely. I plan to make a hard metal mold of the plexi LED holder so I can make more accurate repeat copies by laying the plexi on top and heating it. I wish I could get the transmission switch all by itself. The cable that comes with it has pretty large gauge wires, which must be stripped to press into the cat 5 female connector. It would be slick to just use a cat 5 cable and solder it to the switch. The tiny leads on the LED's are very fragile, which is why I went with the cat 5 male on that end. It is very easy to slide them into the connector without stripping them and crimp.
I'll try to put together a quality kit with specific parts along with instructions.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on February 12, 2018, 10:01:20 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 11, 2018, 11:55:04 PM
Thank you Rick!
After all the questions and comments are made, can I save this mod over in the Mod Files?
I'll try to put together a quality kit with specific parts along with instructions.
Now you have gotten me all excited!
Quote from: ZOA NOM on February 12, 2018, 10:01:20 AM
I wish I could get the transmission switch all by itself....
Yes, that would be ideal. Did you have to buy the entire shift gauge kit just to get the shift switch?
(http://rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/Engine%20DGI-1.jpg)
Alf on his "Fast Jota" site used a shift switch off the Yamaha XVZ 1300 (2002) neutral gear sensor, PN 41R-82540-02-00.
Some minor trimming was needed and the additional 5 wires needed to be attached to the posts on the switch.
http://www.fj1200.info/Home.htm (http://www.fj1200.info/Home.htm)
(http://www.fj1200.info/IMAGENES/ShiftKitIndic/41R-82540-02-00.jpg)
(http://www.fj1200.info/IMAGENES/ShiftKitIndic/Recortando.jpg)
(http://www.fj1200.info/IMAGENES/ShiftKitIndic/selector.jpg)
I bought the whole deal just in case, but only used the switch and cable. I thought about doing the modification to my existing switch, but I wanted to retain it just in case the whole attempt went in the shitter. It could easily be modified if you're so inclined. The part that is critical, as witnessed, was the LED platform. Red's clear plastic idea was the game changer. It really allows for the backlighting to stay unaffected.
To recap, this mod could be as simple as a cat-5 cable soldered to your existing trans switch (modified for all gears), with a male RJ 45 on the other end, and 5 LEDs with a female cat-5 on their leads, pressed into the plastic arc, spot glued to the back of your tach. (the sixth wire is separated to connect to the existing neutral light ground wire)
Yea, maybe Randy can work his magic on sourcing a prewired transmission switch.
The key is the transmission switch...and getting away from those wonky magnets or reed switches on the shift lever shaft.
Cheers and thanks again!
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 12, 2018, 12:17:29 PM
Yea, maybe Randy can work his magic on sourcing a prewired transmission switch.
The key is the transmission switch...and getting away from those wonky magnets or reed switches on the shift lever shaft.
Cheers and thanks again!
Exactly, it's a two - minute mod until you get to the cluster. LOL
I really like that it's an added feature that you don't even know is there until you use it. If I can manage to make a mold to use for forming the lexan, I can just crank out a bunch that Randy can just toss in the package with the switch and cable. Source your own LED's, cat 5 connectors and viola!
Any concerns with heat build up on the LED's with the shrink wrap on them?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 12, 2018, 01:01:31 PM
Any concerns with heat build up on the LED's with the shrink wrap on them?
Not so far, will monitor... the shrink wrap pieces were kept short enough that they will simply wrap the body of the LED if they warm up, leaving the tip open.
Really great approach to this! I am not going to venture there, as I am still wiring up my gear indicator to tell me what gear I am in ... LOL (New to FJs AND 5 speeds!) I just need one light to come on when I hit 5th gear and illuminate reading somewhere on the cluster in size 20 font "THERE IS NO 6TH GEAR, ASS WIPE!" With this approach, this just might be MY next mod! I will only steal a fraction of your mod idea! :good2: (all in good fun!)
Quick update on this mod after my early morning commute... It is absolutely perfect. Using a green LED for 5th gear works very well. Additionally, I didn't realize how nice it is to see the gears drop as you downshift for a stop. I'm no longer bouncing my foot on the shifter as I roll to a stop at a light, or stop sign. I will continue to refine the setup, and provide updates.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 12, 2018, 12:17:29 PM
Yea, maybe Randy can work his magic on sourcing a prewired transmission switch.
The key is the transmission switch...and getting away from those wonky magnets or reed switches on the shift lever shaft.
I have had that for a long time. The gear indicator wiring harness is what Rick used for this mod.
Digital Gear Indicator, Engine Sender (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ADGIU)
Randy - RPM
Outstanding! :good2: Do you have the female for that plug? We can make up our harness to the gauge cluster.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 14, 2018, 02:16:48 PM
Outstanding! :good2: Do you have the female for that plug? We can make up our harness to the gauge cluster.
I have both connectors, Pat. It's a pretty standard automotive connector. It came on the other half of the set with the readout attached. I cut it off and used it. Expensive route to take. I think the best would be to source only the switch itself without the cable, and solder a self-made cable to it with your own connector for the end that goes to the cluster. The most fragile part of the whole thing is the tiny LED leads. I used a cat-5 connector that made it simple to crimp over those leads. There may be another, more robust way to achieve this. I'm researching options. If we can source the part circled, the rest is pretty simple. What would be really slick is to fabricate a rigid piece with LED's pre-mounted that can be spot-glued in place to the back of the tach with a pre-made pigtail that can be fed out the back of the cluster. From there, you can either modify your own trans switch or buy the RPM one.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on February 14, 2018, 12:38:23 PM
Quick update on this mod after my early morning commute... It is absolutely perfect. Using a green LED for 5th gear works very well. Additionally, I didn't realize how nice it is to see the gears drop as you downshift for a stop. I'm no longer bouncing my foot on the shifter as I roll to a stop at a light, or stop sign. I will continue to refine the setup, and provide updates.
I for one will be watching with anticipation. For now, I am installing the oh so clumsy magnet varietal until your fine engineering can offer the refined product! Bravo on a great idea and development! Thank you (as I bounce my foot about).
Quote from: ZOA NOM on February 14, 2018, 02:28:51 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 14, 2018, 02:16:48 PM
Outstanding! :good2: Do you have the female for that plug? We can make up our harness to the gauge cluster.
I have both connectors, Pat. It's a pretty standard automotive connector. It came on the other half of the set with the readout attached. I cut it off and used it. Expensive route to take. I think the best would be to source only the switch itself without the cable, and solder a self-made cable to it with your own connector for the end that goes to the cluster. The most fragile part of the whole thing is the tiny LED leads. I used a cat-5 connector that made it simple to crimp over those leads. There may be another, more robust way to achieve this. I'm researching options. If we can source the part circled, the rest is pretty simple. What would be really slick is to fabricate a rigid piece with LED's pre-mounted that can be spot-glued in place to the back of the tach with a pre-made pigtail that can be fed out the back of the cluster. From there, you can either modify your own trans switch or buy the RPM one.
This may be silly to ask, but I am a newb to FJs as of this past summer ... the trans switch, is that the neutral plug from RPM that you have tapped wires into?
Never mind ... I see the parts now. Please forgive my post ... I did not read thoroughly through the illustrations. This is such a darned cool mod! :Facepalm:
Update:
So I went to Tap Plastics and bought some of these acrylic cubes and drilled holes in them
(https://i.imgur.com/MacS4Kx.jpg)
This allowed for the LEDs to be easily replaced, and made the slight angle on the edge of the gauge a non issue. the LEDs now point directly at the back of the numerals.
(https://i.imgur.com/TOgTcub.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n5ch8So.jpg)
DO NOT USE THIS GLUE!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/jaVMFlG.jpg)
It damaged the black background of the gauge. The light shows through these defects.
(https://i.imgur.com/JC9v7CX.jpg)
I really like the simplicity of the cubes, and the fact that they leave plenty of clear space for the backlight. I would recommend some other type of adhesive, however. I'm not sure what to recommend. Maybe others have ideas about an adhesive that will not dissolve into the backside paint.
Try a transfer tape like this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-9485PC/?N=5002385+3293241558&rt=rud (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-9485PC/?N=5002385+3293241558&rt=rud)
That plastic glue is basically solvent welding (good for nearly any simple plastic fix), so the solvent affected the paint and or the plastic under it.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 23, 2018, 07:31:01 PM
Try a transfer tape like this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-9485PC/?N=5002385+3293241558&rt=rud (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-9485PC/?N=5002385+3293241558&rt=rud)
That plastic glue is basically solvent welding (good for nearly any simple plastic fix), so the solvent affected the paint and or the plastic under it.
That should do the trick! Thanks Monkey!
That is absolutely amazingly well done. I'm not one that really cares what gear I'm in (either I need more rpm or less, and that's all I'm concerned with), but that is very, very well done, sir!
Good work!
About the glue: use SikaFlex. Its elastic when dry, dont disolve the plastics. I use too to repair the plastics, inner fairing tabs... like have not a rigid finish, dont break anymore
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/fj1200alf/marchas_zpsbqf4xfdp.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/fj1200alf/media/marchas_zpsbqf4xfdp.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/fj1200alf/IMG_20170722_164602_zpsx0yttopf.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/fj1200alf/media/IMG_20170722_164602_zpsx0yttopf.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/fj1200alf/marchas%2019_zpshrcmzf6w.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/fj1200alf/media/marchas%2019_zpshrcmzf6w.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m589/fj1200alf/1txdash_zpsdoiiz1yp.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/fj1200alf/media/1txdash_zpsdoiiz1yp.jpg.html)
Looks great, Alf! I'll look into it... For now, I've ordered some gauge paint to see if I can clean it up.
Wow those mods are excellent. Maybe that would stop me from trying to shift into 6th all the time!!!!
Okay, one more try...
Started by replacing the LED's with these flat type that are for GM dashboard lighting. The stiff leads were the key to placing them firmly over the back of the tach gauge using a thin disc of clear plexiglass that is simply layered behind the gauge face.
(https://i.imgur.com/fhlwzaU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rJjhnia.jpg)
I also changed the wiring, using a set of jumper wires for use in computers. The connectors are nice and slim, and sturdy.
(https://i.imgur.com/lPKySzM.jpg)
This made them easy to feed through.
(https://i.imgur.com/SRQWVfT.jpg)
The other thing I changed was the connectors. I wised up and used the molex solder-pin type. Made for a much more robust connection.
(https://i.imgur.com/EArHEuC.jpg)
Notice the small cutouts on the edge of the disc to accommodate the pins that touch the back of the gauge when installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/JHMNeQT.jpg)
Thanks to Midget Mike for a shiny new gauge face!
(https://i.imgur.com/KrkPP2C.jpg)
These are way brighter. Might even need to add a photoresistor to dim them at night...
(https://i.imgur.com/d4AJRIp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oWP1Fpq.jpg)
Quote from: ZOA NOM on March 11, 2018, 08:02:46 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/oWP1Fpq.jpg)
Rick...That is spectacular work there man!
I never realized the luxury in having a gear shift indicator...but my new (2013) bike has it...this along with some other modern features is very welcome!
Thanks, Cap'n. I'll try to put together a specific parts list with sources to add to the file. I wonder if I could calculate the additional clutch lifespan this mod creates. :)
To summarize: Grand Total approx $130
I started with RPM's cable and transmission contact assembly:
note - This is an expensive choice, but I really like the ease of install into the factory switch location. You can certainly modify your existing transmission contactor, which has only one contact, for the neutral light. Adding contacts to the stock assembly is fraught with potential for irreversible damage, so I chose to spend the money and get the unit that Randy sells. I have the factory unit as a spare if a problem arises. This entire mod can be reversed and there is no change to any of the stock assemblies except for drilling out the tiny hole in the back of the gauge cluster. You will need an additional length of 6-wire cable (don't forget neutral, it needs to be separated out and tapped into the circuit at the back of the cluster for the factory light) to run from the end connector to the cluster. The length of this cable puts the connector just about to the front of the carbs on the left side of my bike. I tucked it under the side cover just above the main horizontal frame member.
(https://i.imgur.com/Oq1YFQJ.jpg)
Finally found the right LED's. Sourced from Amazon. These operate between 10-14 volts, so no resistor is required, although I am considering adding a photoresistor circuit to automatically dim the brightness in the dark, and allow the brightest shine during the daytime. I'll update that when I do it.
(https://i.imgur.com/o8e4dyJ.jpg)
Don't forget to notch the disc where the support posts touch the back of the tach face on installation.
(https://i.imgur.com/rJjhnia.jpg)
I used these molex 6-pin connectors I sourced at Fry's Electronics:
(https://i.imgur.com/tSG5lww.jpg)
Along with these jumpers also found at Fry's:
The female ends fit snugly over the LED leads, and allow individual replacement. I added heat shrink for protection. I twisted all five positive sides together and soldered them to a single power lead that feeds out of the cluster to be connected to the switched power input on the back. (Red wire seen here in second pic):
(https://i.imgur.com/vVvvCnu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oqyyJ86.jpg)
I sourced the thinnest sheet of lexan I could find at Home Depot to use for the clear disc. It needs to be sandwiched between the gauge face and the body of the tach, so thinner is better. It only needs to be there to hold the LEDs in place over the back of the tach numerals. I drilled very tiny holes for the leads to keep them as tight as possible. I used dremel bits #73 for these holes, and broke several bits, so go slowly.
Uploading photos to FJOwners server to prevent broken links in the event Imgur server is no longer in use.
How is the lexan attached to the tach?
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 12, 2018, 06:13:17 PM
How is the lexan attached to the tach?
It's drilled at the gauge face screws and needle hole, and sandwiched between the gauge face and the electronics. This is why thinner is better. The needle will catch the screw heads if the lexan is too thick.
You can see it in this pic.
(https://i.imgur.com/KrkPP2C.jpg)
Just added a photoresistor to dim the brightness after dark.
I used a 100k ohm resistor in parallel with the photoresistor to achieve the brightness level for dark.
I think the results are perfect.
https://youtu.be/vjkDOb8M27k (https://youtu.be/vjkDOb8M27k)
Updating this thread to add a drawing of an idea I'm trying to put together...
The idea is to replace the lexan disc with a flexible, clear pcb that has the foil runs for the LED's sandwiched between two layers, and a split across the middle that can allow it to be slipped into the space behind the gauge face without even removing the needle or the screws. An edge connector would make assembly far simpler, and the reduction of bulky wires would allow better backlighting.
Stay tuned!
(popcorn)
Joe
Rick,
I see this post sort of stopped in late 2018. I can say that I want to do something like this for sure to my FJ 1200 TC. Ordering parts now and drawing something up to print out on my 3D printer for the LED holder. The photoresistor circuit is a stroke of genius as well.
Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting on this system. Brilliant Sir, Simply Brilliant!!!
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on September 23, 2020, 05:59:40 PM
Rick,
I see this post sort of stopped in late 2018. I can say that I want to do something like this for sure to my FJ 1200 TC. Ordering parts now and drawing something up to print out on my 3D printer for the LED holder. The photoresistor circuit is a stroke of genius as well.
Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting on this system. Brilliant Sir, Simply Brilliant!!!
Thanks Bud, it was (and still is) a work in progress. The indicator has worked flawlessly this whole time in it's last version, so I've just neglected to move forward with some refinements I've been thinking of. I've looked into printing the led circuits onto a clear thin (think sheet protector) wafer than can slip between the guage and face easily, without all the wires that do impede the backlighting a bit.
It's a very clean mod, that I use daily, and it's become just a normal item on the dash that I don't even think twice about, until I see others without one. Good luck with the mod, let me know if you run into a problem. I still have some parts too.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on September 25, 2020, 08:24:18 AM
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on September 23, 2020, 05:59:40 PM
Rick,
I see this post sort of stopped in late 2018. I can say that I want to do something like this for sure to my FJ 1200 TC. Ordering parts now and drawing something up to print out on my 3D printer for the LED holder. The photoresistor circuit is a stroke of genius as well.
Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting on this system. Brilliant Sir, Simply Brilliant!!!
Thanks Bud, it was (and still is) a work in progress. The indicator has worked flawlessly this whole time in it's last version, so I've just neglected to move forward with some refinements I've been thinking of. I've looked into printing the led circuits onto a clear thin (think sheet protector) wafer than can slip between the guage and face easily, without all the wires that do impede the backlighting a bit.
It's a very clean mod, that I use daily, and it's become just a normal item on the dash that I don't even think twice about, until I see others without one. Good luck with the mod, let me know if you run into a problem. I still have some parts too.
Hi Rick,
So I got an instrument cluster on eBay to experiment with. I'm thinking about a T4.7 or T5 socket type of LED install. The LEDs seem to be prevalent now days. Ordered some LEDs, Photoresistors, RPM Gear indicator switch, Molex connectors. Just need to disassemble and measure, draw the "Ring" and start the print refinement.
The ring would be 3D printed with ports for the 1/4 turn bulbs to be installed in with a full circle power bar and the ground being associated with individual sockets. Some of the foil tape may do the trick well for conductor strips. I think I can keep the mount area at the screws at around 0.5 mm and hold the unit reliably with a few rubber tipped stand off pegs for support.
A couple things that have me a little hesitant about disassembly before the face screws are removed are,
1. How do you pull off the gage needle without damage? Does it just pull straight off with some support as near the shaft as possible?
2. How do you index it to go back on in the same place keeping the reading accurate?
I know it may not read to a +- 10 RPM resolution but I would like to avoid it being 100 - 500 RPM off. the needle seems to use the stop peg pretty hard on the donor unit I got.
Just waiting on some LEDs and needle guidance.
T.I.A.
Hi Bud, sounds like you're all in at this point!
I did wind up with a tach error of about 500rpm after this mod. I pulled the needle straight upwards to remove it, and it took more force than I was really comfortable with. That's one of the reasons I was interested in a thin disc with a slot cut halfway across that could be slipped between the tach body and the backside of the face, rather than removing the face.
Also, regarding the LED's, I found the GM panel LED's to work better than the socket style. They sit more flush against the backside of the gauge face, and that helps to focus their light directly on the numeral they are lighting up.
Hey Rick,
Progress on Covid times goes slowly at times. But progress we must make. I have made a slip in, transparent 3D printed LED holder with, against recommendations, socket style LEDs. It was just easier to connect. I chose green for 1-4, meaning "go ahead and shift" and amber, red or orange for 5th, meaning "don't shift".
I have yet to install the gear indicator switch and have a question. Does the indicator switch sit above or below the oil level. In other words, does the oil have to be drained to swap out the switch?
I'm getting close and once it's operational will share pictures of everything I've done. It's kind of cool.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Bud
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on December 14, 2020, 02:13:42 AM
Hey Rick,
Progress on Covid times goes slowly at times. But progress we must make. I have made a slip in, transparent 3D printed LED holder with, against recommendations, socket style LEDs. It was just easier to connect. I chose green for 1-4, meaning "go ahead and shift" and amber, red or orange for 5th, meaning "don't shift".
I have yet to install the gear indicator switch and have a question. Does the indicator switch sit above or below the oil level. In other words, does the oil have to be drained to swap out the switch?
I'm getting close and once it's operational will share pictures of everything I've done. It's kind of cool.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Bud
Well, you've spent your quarantine far more productively than I have. I'd love to see pics when you're all done. I do not recall dealing with any oil when I changed the switch, but it's possible that I did it in conjunction with an oil change.
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on December 14, 2020, 02:13:42 AMI have yet to install the gear indicator switch and have a question. Does the indicator switch sit above or below the oil level. In other words, does the oil have to be drained to swap out the switch?
Bud,
I have not investigated your question (something about a snowstorm here). If necessary, I believe that you could simply tilt (and support) the bike maybe 45 degrees over to one side to do the work, without draining the oil. Ropes from the ceiling could provide the support necessary for this option, without using floor stands or jacks.
.
There is no need to drain the oil, just pop it off. It is a tight fit between the shift assembly and the case, so there is hardly any oil in there as is. You will only lose a few ounces.
I noticed Hank Scott sells an aluminum reinforcement cover for the plastic switch plate...
(https://cdn3.volusion.com/rgqbx.sxswu/v/vspfiles/photos/RRC-SHIFTPLATE-2T.jpg)
https://shop.rrcperformanceengines.com/product-p/rrc-shiftplate.htm
Has anyone needed this, or is this just used on the race cars?
Not much of a "cover"...
We have never had the need for them on the bikes or race cars. I don't know that I have ever seen one "buckle". They could, however, be for people that like to put "a little extra" on the plastic housing and break it, which in turn causes a leak. We see cracked ones at the screw holes all the time. This seems to add a bit more surface area to the mounting hole flanges, as the original holes and screws are tapered.
Not necessary for most people. It should come in the, "I overtighten everything and wonder why it breaks or strips out." starter pack. Also, to include a case of thread locker and a few tubes of silicone.
Quote from: RPM - Robert on December 14, 2020, 06:20:04 PM
Not necessary for most people. It should come in the, "I overtighten everything and wonder why it breaks or strips out." starter pack. Also, to include a case of thread locker and a few tubes of silicone.
:lol: :biggrin: :rofl2: :rofl2:
I think this is a cool project. I'll put it on my someday list. I could probably get away with an "I'm in 5th gear" light.
The starter pack comment from Rob was awesome.
5th gear light is exactly what I'm interested in for the race bike. May also use it to disable the air shifter after the shift to 5th to avoid any just before the stripe shenanigans!
A 5th gear light is where I started, but the switch has all six contacts (1-5 & Neutral), so it was just as much work to do one led as it was for all five gears, and it feels a lot more factory in use.
I'm cheap so here was my solution.........In third gear the tach and the speedo needles are in synch. In 1st and 2nd gear the speedo needle lags the tach by a lot (1st) or a little (2nd). Ditto for 4th and 5th but past the tach. Doesn't cost a cent. :biggrin:
I've found that I glance at it most often when I'm stopped at a light to confirm I'm in first at idle, or when downshifting into a corner to confirm the gear I want on exit. It's become second nature, and I've all but eliminated "wrong gear" events. This is in addition to the sixth gear upshift. Also, I use a Sena to listen to news, music, podcasts, etc., so engine noise isn't much of a clue.
Wow, thanks for all the replies to my question on this topic.
SORRY THE INSET PICTURES FROM MY CLOUD DIDN'T WORK. I made them attached.
I have currently designed, 3D printed and tested 5 basic versions and 10 different revisions or tweaks of each version.
Here's a summary of my evolution of Rick's working gear indicator concept. My modifications were simply for ease of install or implementation for me personally.
The LEDs I chose for the final form factor are very bright and focused so I could keep them 3mm or more from the back of the gauge face letting a good amount of illumination light reach the unlit RPM numbers while projecting plenty of light at the desired number. After using the black PLA for early prototyping, (because it was in the printer), I switched to a clear PLA filament.
I struggled with electrical connection due to their small size and because there is no printed circuit that I found to substitute and get the positioning right. The pictures below show some evolutionary steps to what I think are my final LED mounts and LEDs.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TXd24BkoLQBPC1nZRfsx-U2u-ct1egfu/view?usp=sharing)
These are my many versions of mounts, connection methods and wrong LED choice early on. I didn't expect the resistor to be attached. Then evolving to use the 1/8th turn T4.7 / T5 LEDs.
The small 6 conductor connectors were the ticket to the final solution. The lower left setup looked promising but I failed to keep the thin mount area out of the heat gun airstream and got a huge warp.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TXd24BkoLQBPC1nZRfsx-U2u-ct1egfu/view?usp=sharing)
This shows the clear filament, a blending of the 6 conductor wire strands with the additional 4 strands of twisted 30 gauge wire and learning how to shrink wrap without warping the mounting surface. On the right the final solution to a physical "Circuit Board" can be seen.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EwcU8ujudTezGDDnSDVm5mt9rf-F4A3u/view?usp=sharing)
Like many things, this is a learning and experimenting process. I found by weaving the wire with the insulation through the routing holes I had, made the most sense. Just removing the insulation at the socket contact area proved the best way to accomplish my physical "Circuit Board".
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ftsMTfZmg1UN9V2zIYLnXtnCOvpfSRol/view?usp=sharing)
This shows the completed mounts with the looms ready to exit the back of the cluster housing and have the connector installed. One mount is for the T4.7 / T5 socket style LEDs on the top and one mount is for T3 socket style LEDs. These are available in many colors. I chose to use Green for 1st - 4th and Amber or Red for 5th. Green meaning "Upshift OK" Amber/Red meaning "No Upshift". The LEDs are very bright and well focused so some clearance is a good thing to let in illumination light for night use.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BOqwaafR_XTEhnHylV6R1ujo23Lm0nh6/view?usp=sharing)
Showing the same units from the gauge side. The LED to Gauge clearance is 3mm for the T4.7/T5 unit and 4.5mm for the T3 unit.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZwXDLSt3wTAUvXh2TfxPp_th4u_9sB6D/view?usp=sharing)
Showing the Terminated connector exiting the back of the gauge assembly. I found it easier for the test unit to remove the power wire from the loom and connect it directly.
I'm still waiting for the switch O-Ring to complete the install and finalize looming length.
I am also making the Photo Resistor circuit to go between the power and the board to be finalized.
I will also try out my 3D printed black fairing scoop trim bits when I put it back together.
Coming soon.
Quote from: Bud Wilkinson on December 17, 2020, 06:38:38 PMWow, thanks for all the replies to my question on this topic.
I have currently designed, 3D printed and tested 5 basic versions and 10 different revisions or tweaks of each version. My modifications were simply for ease of install or implementation for me personally. The LEDs I chose for the final form factor are very bright and focused
I'm still waiting for the switch O-Ring to complete the install and finalize looming length. I am also making the Photo Resistor circuit to go between the power and the board to be finalized. I will also try out my 3D printed black fairing scoop trim bits when I put it back together. Coming soon.
Bud,
Your project just
rocks! Ya done good! Don't know if you plan to sell them, but I'd sure buy one for my FJ. If Plug'n'Play is not your thing, even a kit would be okay by me. I don't have a 3-D printer, but I can usually assemble a kit without much trouble.
'WAY to GO! 8)
.
Quote from: red on December 17, 2020, 07:10:24 PM
Your project just rocks! Ya done good! Don't know if you plan to sell them, but I'd sure buy one for my FJ. If Plug'n'Play is not your thing, even a kit would be okay by me. I don't have a 3-D printer, but I can usually assemble a kit without much trouble.
'WAY to GO!
8)
.
Thanks Red, this is really Rick's project. I just made some mods to a great idea.
I'm not really making a commercial here but a kit of sorts could be available once I get a complete working version done. It would be like an almost plug and play solution because some things have to be left undone to install the system. The dash exit loom comes to mind. then properly pinned out to the connector.
Things like the loom from the switch and the cluster internals could be done pretty near completely though. Could even customize LED color choices too. The switch from RPM would be on whoever wants to do it though.
Absolutely beautiful, Bud. It's an even better version. I really like the shape. The one concern I've had with mine is the backlighting illumination. My jumble of wires back there blocks a lot of the backlight, so the gauges can have dark areas. Really elegant solution. I love it.