This is my FJ. There are many like it, but this one is mine.
My FJ is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life.
Without me, my FJ is useless. Without my FJ, I am useless. I must ride my FJ true....
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/10/5853_10_01_18_8_55_26.jpeg)
So this is my starting point.
After reading a lot here, I will do my best to make myself proud of my FJ :good2:
They are a beautiful beast to be sure, and with the right touches of love and sweat they can become something spectacular. They are a bike with a personalliy and a soul. Treat her well, and do her proud.
Mark
Looks like you have a great starting point. Post up as you progress. The rear seat cover looks interesting.
Thx,
In my hands, biggest weakness of FJ is that it is maintenance free bike.
So for years i was OK with oil change only.
BTW rear seat cover I made myself few years ago.
As giuilari seat has rivets with thread and I mostly ride solo
I made mould from extruded polystyrene and covered with fiber glass
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/krovka1.jpg)
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/krovka4.jpg)
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/krovka5.jpg)
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20170625_105929.jpg)
Wow! That looks really good. I love seeing the different things the members here make. And the simple process to make them. Really cool, thanks for showing us that. :good2:
Excellent job on the seat cowl. I made an attempt at this several years ago on my '86 and botched it completely. :good2:
Good for you laddie! :good2:
What size is that front tire?
Trick while making cowling was that as a first layer instead of fiber glass I used nylon stockings. Perfectly fit to mould. :good2:
Front tire is something made by Dunlop for Harley Davidsons, it is hockey puck hard and run flat. No metric size, it is wider and taller than 120/80, speedo reads exactly now, but dangerous thing in wet conditions.
I have already Dunlop K330A ready to fit.
Very nice workmanship on the cowl. Makes my efforts look like a kindergarten art project!
Quote from: fj1289 on January 11, 2018, 11:20:52 PM
... Makes my efforts look like a kindergarten art project!
Heh, you funny guy.
As FJ is not a rocket science, compared to your rocket fast FJ all our bikes here look like a kindergarten projects. :flag_of_truce:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180207_180658.jpg)
While waiting for better weather, I just made "poor mans vibranators".
Already have parts for F4i shock swap, but do not want to ride to garage in snow :nea:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180220_154316.jpg)
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180220_163815.jpg)
F4i swap done :good2:
Was bit in hurry, so was no time for pictures, drove home and was dark already. Headlight needed no adjustment so with my 180lbs as preload set to 2 rear height is same as before.
But riding is way different, this one is not just a rattling spring, but also work as a damper.
Never experienced this with OEM unit :rofl2: :rofl2:
Will have to set preload to 3/4 and fork as hard as possible and do some testing, but as we have like 32°F here, have to wait
Had some time to make pictures and mount shock reservoir.
It is just scrap piece of aluminium, but stiff enough. Was not able to find in gallery how others made this. :dash1:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180309_120459.jpg)
All rear end changes in one picture.
CBR F4i rear shock, FZS 1000 tension bar and FJR 1300 rotor.
Not as fancy as YZF750R swingarm, but I am wannabe racer - beginner :lol: :lol:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180309_122223.jpg)
So standing on YZF R6 side stand, looks nicely raised compared to photo in my first post. :good2:
(http://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180309_110057.jpg)
More will come ...
Good stuff mate :good:. Make sure you get a brace on the forks. If you haven't done it already swap out the OEM brake lines for braided steel ones.
OK, things are getting worse and I need some help please.
While having some fun on the road, WOT and around 6-8k rpm, felt hard kick from the engine, like engine stop for half second and than everything fine again, that is all.
Happened like 3 times last week.
From that time, while changing gears up, OK, but white shifting down, I feel, that shift lever does not go as smooth as before.
Since my bike has 86k km, I am afraid, that 2nd gear issue is coming.
So I need both? 2nd gear pinions, shifting forks (all three?) and something else?
Can somebody confirm list of parts affected and some recommendations to do/check, while splitting cases to fix this?
1TX partare probably same, so need to look for 3CV/3XV or XJR parts?
Thanks
[posthunt]
So after few days with google and ebay, easiest way to go, seems to be buy XJR transmission and do the swap.
Only issue is that XJR output shaft is longer, so will have to remove bearings and switch for my current FJ shaft.
Do I need some special tools? Hydraulic press etc.....?
As I need at least No.1 shift fork and 2&5 pinion gears, those parts cost twice more than complete XJR gearbox
and those are newer / lower mileage than our FJ.
Will be happy for ANY advice before spending money on parts.
Thx
[/posthunt]
Stepan, have you reviewed this? http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=666.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=666.0)
Perhaps Randy or Robert from RPM can respond on the FJ/XJR tranny swap. I know the XJR output shaft is used on the FJ transmission to get the front sprocket moved out (instead of using an offset sprocket) sometimes needed on some 17" rear wheel mods, (along with the XJR longer clutch push rod and XJR sprocket cover) so why couldn't a FJ output shaft be used on a XJR tranny?
Some questions should be left to experts (not me)
Sorry to hear of your woes, but if you fix it right, you will never have to worry about it again.
Pat, you pretty much nailed it. He will need the longer shift shaft, clutch pushrod, and the XJR sprocket cover assembly, as well as a offset sprocket to be able to get the chain lined back up; along with all the other necessary gaskets, o-rings, shift forks, etc that he should be replacing as well. I would suggest putting the Undercut Transmission (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=UCT) in. This would be the easiest way to go.
Robert, can Stepan use a XJR tranny and instead of using the long XJR output shaft, he re-uses his existing FJ output shaft? He has no need to move the counter shaft sprocket out.
That way he can re-use his standard FJ clutch push rod and sprocket cover.
Pat: Thank you very much, found this article elsewhere, but here are pictures to find all 37 bolts :good2:
Robert: Thanks for offer, but to be honest, 550$ +P&P to Europe is way out of my budget and as on German ebay there are complete XJR transmissions (at the moment two offers for approx 150USD incl. shipping, claimed 17 / 18k km.
and my bike has 86k km, this seems to be reasonable replacement, newer bearings, revised shift forks etc.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Getriebe-Yamaha-XJR1200-Bj-1997-18000-Km/251397381961?hash=item3a88739f49:g:2rEAAMXQWzNSoeeE (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Getriebe-Yamaha-XJR1200-Bj-1997-18000-Km/251397381961?hash=item3a88739f49:g:2rEAAMXQWzNSoeeE)
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-XJR-1200-Getriebe-Motor-Antrieb/152947428271?hash=item239c608baf:g:ry8AAOSwYgFaq-rX (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Yamaha-XJR-1200-Getriebe-Motor-Antrieb/152947428271?hash=item239c608baf:g:ry8AAOSwYgFaq-rX)
If this is possible, since engine will be split in halves, thinking about changing crank and rod bearings and engine should last another 80k km?? :blush:
We also stock every transmission gears & parts, but they are not listed on the website.
If you have a complete parts list I can quote you prices of the gears you need
Stepan, either way, make sure you replace the 3 shift forks, so plan on those for sure.
Instead of $150 for a XJR tranny, get a price from Robert for just the gears you need.
if you get the XJR tranny, perhaps you can use your FJ shaft (thus my question to Robert) so you don't have to get the XJR sprocket cover and long XJR push rod.
Cheers and best wishes. Pat
Pat, yes, he can use the FJ shaft but he will need a press and a Bearing splitter which if he doesn't have, is another added cost. I thought he asked for the easiest way which is why I linked the undercut transmission. Now that we have established he is trying to do it on a budget. The cheapest way would be to buy the used XJR transmission, along with a used shift shaft, used push rod, used cover, and an offset sprocket.
The main and rod bearings can not be changed if just removing the bottom half of the case to do the transmission.
Here is a list of parts I would change.
Crankshaft seals (both sides)
Transmission output shaft seal
Pickup screen
Clutch push rod seal
Shift shaft seal in the case (the XJR cover also has two seals and a bearing that should be checked)
Center case o-ring
Oil pan gasket
Clutch clover gasket
All three oil pump o-rings
Oil pump snap ring
All three shift forks
Clutch lock washer
Shift Detent Kit
Sprocket lock washer
If changing the 2nd and 5th pinions your cost would be
$29.99 for the second pinion and $57.11 for the 5th plus I would change all the thrust washers in between the gears. Plus the cost of tools. Or labor to have someone else do it
Thank you very very much guys, you're awesome.
So XJR shaft is 8mm longer, will not fit under FJ cover, as XJR one has different shape because of frame? in case I will not be able to outsource press, I will need 8mm offset sprocket?
Will check main/rod bearings and depending on conditions will decide, anyway I do not think I will find color codes after 30yrs.
also timing chain guides are worn, will see as I split the engine, but want to have most of parts ready and keep my FJ alive for a few more years.
For now, XJR tranny is way to go.
Thanks again and will let you know
The cover is longer to accommodate the longer shafts. You are going to need an offset sprocket regardless if using the xjr output shaft, to keep the chain aligned.
Stepan, just a note on the XJR sprocket cover (you will need with the XJR tranny)
Don't install the XJR sprocket cover while the engine is out of the bike. If you do this you will find that, with the FJ frame you can't get the clearance to get XJR sprocket cover off without removing the engine.
Wait and put the XJR cover on *after* the engine is mounted back in the frame. You will see you have to grind away some aluminum on the XJR sprocket cover in order to get it mounted.
(The XJR uses a backbone frame design vs the FJ's perimeter frame)
Thanks to Kookaloo Frank for this little nugget.
Robert, we are going to talk Stepan into a 17" rear wheel conversion just so he does not have to use an offset sprocket with his new XJR tranny ....we know he really, really wants to..,
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 02, 2018, 06:47:41 PM
....we know he really, really wants to..,
:rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2: Nice try Pat
but to pass local MOT I have to stay with both 16"
Law here is probably way different than in US.
Testers here are more than interested in "street legal" parts, which means that on every single part should be E4, E8, E27, E-whatever stamp, to prove that everything is safe and certified, but last year i passed MOT with all brake rotors worn below limits, dead rear shock, leaking forks...... and exhaust collector felt apart right next day. :crazy:
Don't oem Yamaha rims have that stamp?
Are we sure this is a 2nd gear or a transmission issue? Awfully hard to diagnose over the internet, but I'd eliminate issues in the shift mechanism first. I think Alan (Firehawk068) had a shifting issue a year or two ago that was related to the very light spring that is part of the shift pawl.
Nothing is 100% sure, till engine is open, Shifting up is still precise as before, so I do not think shift drum is out of its position.
That the dogs are worn I know for like 10k km, nothing critical as I am sloooow rider, but IMHO I bent shifting fork now which causes wrong axial position of cogs on shaft. Hard to find neutral on traffic lights and rough shifting, which is very annoying.
As I can have nearly new tranny for 130USD, this is good chance to inspect lower engine, pickup screen and metal particles in oil pan if any, change/inspect seals etc.
Will know more later, now just searching for information what to expect and to have as much parts as possible ready.
2Pat: Yup, they have, but as my registration certificate says 16" I have to stay with 16". Even with different tire size https://youtu.be/mJZZNHekEQw?t=85 :dash1:
Bezmozek, I've replied to your PM, don't know if you had seen it...
Had some time to upgrade front forks.
Special thanks to balky1 who sent me custom made FJ1100 springs.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180629_060528.jpg)
I was told that these are 15% harder than OEM. Hard to say, but feels at least 100% better now.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180629_092143.jpg)
Bit longer than originals, spent some time to push those into forks, but not so hard job as i thought.
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180629_111811.jpg)
Only thing I had to change, were snap rings holding preload inner part in place. Left one felt apart because of rust, right one was missing at all.
Replaced those with rubber o-rings. After all I set preload to 1 and forks are still stiffer than OEM with preload on max.
Used 15W-50 oil, tightened triple trees and now I am enjoying speed bumps. :good2: :biggrin:
Now was time to repair cracked front fender.
Did some research and tried LEGO and toluene.
Fender was welded before, cracked again, glued with epoxy glue and cracked again.
For now looks good, stiffer than before
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180209_152204_1.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180405_173456_1.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20180720_141517.jpg)
:good2:
Yamaha had a brake hose bracket that fit under the fender tabs, between the tabs and the fork. One on each side. This oem bracket spaced out the fender tabs (preventing squeeze) when the fender bolts were (very lightly) torqued.
When folks upgrade to ss brake lines, they leave this hose bracket off, so to compensate for the deleted bracket, put some washers between the fender tabs and the fork mounts. About 3mm should do it.
(Thank you DavidR)
An RPM fork brace will stabilize the deflection of the spindly 41mm dia. stanchion tubes on our heavy motorcycles.
Your fender tabs will thank you, your fork seals and fork bushings will thank you.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 27, 2018, 12:03:58 PM
Yamaha had a brake hose bracket that fit under the fender tabs, between the tabs and the fork. One on each side. This oem bracket spaced out the fender tabs (preventing squeeze) when the fender bolts were (very lightly) torqued.
When folks upgrade to ss brake lines, they leave this hose bracket off, so to compensate for the deleted bracket, put some washers between the fender tabs and the fork mounts. About 3mm should do it.
(Thank you DavidR)
An RPM fork brace will stabilize the deflection of the spindly 41mm dia. stanchion tubes on our heavy motorcycles.
Your fender tabs will thank you, your fork seals and fork bushings will thank you.
True for the fork brace, but be aware that it can hit the brake hose splitter (if you are still using it) leaving you without front brakes and brake fluid spilling all around your new nicely done fender.
Quote from: balky1 on August 03, 2018, 11:56:06 AM
True for the fork brace, but be aware that it can hit the brake hose splitter (if you are still using it) leaving you without front brakes and brake fluid spilling all around your new nicely done fender.
Yes, I heard about this...Did you have the soft oem fork springs in the forks when this happened?
Quote from: balky1 on August 03, 2018, 11:56:06 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 27, 2018, 12:03:58 PMAn RPM fork brace will stabilize the deflection of the spindly 41mm dia. stanchion tubes on our heavy motorcycles. Your fender tabs will thank you, your fork seals and fork bushings will thank you.
True for the fork brace, but be aware that it can hit the brake hose splitter (if you are still using it) leaving you without front brakes and brake fluid spilling all around your new nicely done fender.
A better plan would be to change the hydraulic hoses to Stainless Steel braided lines. Use two such hoses from the brake calipers up to the front brake master cylinder, with a two-hose banjo bolt at the m/c, and eliminate the splitter entirely. Then the fork brace can't hit or damage a splitter that is not there. 8) It's a good brake upgrade, too.
.
Quote from: red on August 03, 2018, 06:18:05 PM
Quote from: balky1 on August 03, 2018, 11:56:06 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 27, 2018, 12:03:58 PMAn RPM fork brace will stabilize the deflection of the spindly 41mm dia. stanchion tubes on our heavy motorcycles. Your fender tabs will thank you, your fork seals and fork bushings will thank you.
True for the fork brace, but be aware that it can hit the brake hose splitter (if you are still using it) leaving you without front brakes and brake fluid spilling all around your new nicely done fender.
A better plan would be to change the hydraulic hoses to Stainless Steel braided lines. Use two such hoses from the brake calipers up to the front brake master cylinder, with a two-hose banjo bolt at the m/c, and eliminate the splitter entirely. Then the fork brace can't hit or damage a splitter that is not there. 8) It's a good brake upgrade, too.
.
Perfectly true, but when I changed to SS lines 2 years ago, splitter stayed in the game. I don't know why I kept it, but that's how it is.
In are the same springs like Bezmozek now has. But, set preload on 1, two up, very hard braking and a deep pothole. I was happy we stayed on the bike.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 27, 2018, 12:03:58 PM
... put some washers between the fender tabs and the fork mounts. About 3mm should do it. ...
Yup, did that, thanks for advice.
No posts does not mean no progress.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/5853_25_11_18_7_36_52.jpeg)
Mounted back main stand. If you look closer, maybe you will notice, that it is bit longer - 10mm - approx 1/2", works just fine with Honda rear shock.
I have bad news too: exhaust collector is delkevic - perfect piece of SS steel, but thinner than OEM, so hotter on surface.
Some paint damage occured even with heat shield on inner side of belly pan:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/burn.jpg)
I was lucky enough to source some spacers on ebay, that will keep belly pan bit far from collector. :yahoo:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/fair.jpg)
Can´t wait to have those on my bike. Made from fiber glass and some of fibers still go across bolt holes.
Do not know how old are those, but never mounted on bike :shok:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/Plex.jpg)
Will kill next one who will touch my bike. :diablo:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/nose.jpg)
So this is my start of this season :dash2:
(https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/531/557/a88.jpg)
And this is the end of my season:
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20190823_144803.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20190823_194159.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20190912_120734.jpg)
(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2102/4/4241/4241239_d4b1c2c056bec2f82a66490f5fdb1458/images/IMG_20190912_154323.jpg)
Uff, just in time.
9k km total mileage, main bearings are just on limit, last layer thin enough to see through copper layer under.
Connecting rod bearings seems to be OK, but will change those anyway probably.
Was surprised how clean can be so old engine inside, no metal particles in oil pan, overally good condition, bore in cylinders seems to be OK too.
Just have now two minor problems.
1100cc piston rings (74mm) bore seems to be made from unobtainium, will keep searching, do not really want to swap to 1200cc cylinders which seems to fit, but 1100cc is more than enough for me.
And second, for 1100cc head gasket yamaha dealer here asks twice more, than for 1200cc.
Are those interchangeable?
thx
I remember Randy having a heck of a time finding STD 1100 piston rings.
He found them: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3A36Y-11610-01 (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3A36Y-11610-01)
Pat, you are always first one here with helping hand, thank you. :good2:
After contacting official and biggest Yamaha dealer in Czech Republic, soon was clear, that I will spent few nights online.
Staff at spare parts dpt. was surprised with year and my VIN which is 000730. Probably too lazy finding so old parts.
But communication was quite simple:
Head gasket? - No, maybe in Japan, price unavailable
And for FJ 1200 - 100 USD
Piston rings? - No
Rubber grommets for valve cover? - No
Oil pump? - No
What about for XJR? - OK, it is in Japan, one month delivery and 250 USD
And what about main bearings? - We need color codes
I can give you numbers on case and crank - I need color codes.
You should have chart for this. - Maybe on service dpt.
OK, can somebody figure out which colors will fit? - No, we are authorized Yamaha dealer and paying for these information.
Thx, bye :shok:
Will have to go there in person, because via phone was clear that they do not want to bother with me.
Hopefully I will get price for bearings, if not... probably eBay again.
Excellent customer care, I hope I will never need even a drop of oil from them.
Anyway it seems that I was lucky and sourced most of the parts on eBay.
Head gasket from Germany, grommets from Norway, piston rings from Japan, oil pump from Canada,.....
Previously I bought stand spring from France and Spanish fairing from Italy, just thinking about buying penguin for rear seat to make it really global. :yahoo:
More later.
I have everything you need on the shelf and ready to ship.
As far as the 1100 head gasket they have been out of production for years. We use the 1200 Cylinder Head Gasket (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3A1TX-11181-10) on all 1100 builds.
Yamaha FJ1100 STD Piston Ring Set (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3A36Y-11610-01) that Pat already mentioned.
FJ Valve Cover Bolt Grommet (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2GH-1111G-00-00)
Yamaha Oil Pump (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3CV-13300-00)
Yamaha Crankshaft Main Bearing (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2H7-11416-xx): Yes, the crank and case number are required to determine the proper bearing. Or, just use the colors on the old bearings.
RPM has everything you need for your engine in one place; gasket kits, valve stem seals, timing & starter chains, copper head washers, o-rings & seals...All of the engine parts still available for this base engine are available through RPM.
There is no need to search eBay and purchase from all points of the world, RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3CV-13300-00) has everything you need in one stop shopping.
If you have any question, feel free to reach out and we can get you all sorted.
Randy - RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3CV-13300-00)
Randy I know and I really appreciate your offer, but shipping from US + 20% or more import tax makes you last stand.
But I will definitely order whatever small that fits envelope, cause RPM sticker is must have on my fairing.
Information you and Robert gave me are worth of gold. :good2:
The money you save on the oil pump alone will cover the shipping, VAT., and leave you with extra cash in your pocket.