Just flushed fresh rebuilt vfr800 and stock slave cylinder with dot 5. Got presssure, good pressure. Clutch can will not disengage. The slave piston has an indention from the actuator rod. Bike has 11,705 originals miles. Sat for a minute. Rocked back and forth in gear to "un stick" clutch plates. Waiting to red kote my fuel tank, so I didn't try it with warm oil. Thanks everyone let me know of your opinion of the ball bearing!! Haven't been able to get it out with a magnet, just saw a spherical object on the boroscope. Thanks again. Ask questions will provide more I info
Did the clutch operate properly prior to the dot 5 flush? Did you swap the VFR master at the same time? Or prior to the flush?
Quote from: fj1289 on December 09, 2017, 04:00:29 PM
Did the clutch operate properly prior to the dot 5 flush? Did you swap the VFR master at the same time? Or prior to the flush?
I had fitted the vfr800 m/c, bled it with dot 3, about a month ago. I've never ridden the bike. Haven't gotten clutch disengagement. The slave I rebuilt the first time pinched the brand new seal in the bore, leaked as i got pressure. Took it all back apart. Cleaned it all. Continued to flush with dot 5. Slave an drew m/c are bled pretty well. I had pretty good pressure. It's all taken apart again cuz i did a lot of powder coating today. The slave I had just rebuild is not leaking. Theres very little air in the line. For some reason, my slave piston will not push the actuate shaft. I have not tried after warming the bike up. Tank is off and apart to do a fuel tank liner to seal and prevent more rust. I'm just trying to get info before I tear into the clutch hub and the pan...searching for he ball bearing. In the mean time, I did spear the cat twice. After the first time
I took a boroscope and saw a spherical object, like the ball bearing, but i can't get anything out with a magnet. Thanks for the response. Just trying to find the fix before having to tear into the engine. It's untouched 11,705 miles. Sat for a good half of its life, or more. Thanks guys. Appreciate it.
Stop futzing with the clutch! Wait till you can run the engine (and not spear the cat). Cold/thick oil makes the clutch act like it is not working properly. Post up when you can run the engine and balance the carbs if you can. The clutch don't care but it runs better when balanced.
NEVER heard of the clutch ball bearing falling out unless the clutch was disassembled.
Quote from: FJmonkey on December 09, 2017, 06:22:36 PM
Stop futzing with the clutch! Wait till you can run the engine (and not spear the cat). Cold/thick oil makes the clutch act like it is not working properly. Post up when you can run the engine and balance the carbs if you can. The clutch don't care but it runs better when balanced.
The bike runs pretty damn well. I was still getting rust flakes once the fuel filter after rust treatment, which is why I am using red kote after a long long pressure rinse and dry. Just don't have an external fuel tank to run the bike on. I put 40 pilot jets. 115 mains. The bike runs sound. Needs tuning yes, but it willride to nearly full potential, but I can't. Because of the clutch not working. Going to do the fuel liner tomorrow, and change the oil. I've just thrown ton of money at this bike. Want to find the fix without tearing into her. I can, I just would rather not. It's on rpm uni filters, v@h 4 to 1 in good shape. It will need synced and needle shims (I have them) in early spring. I'm not worried about the tuning right now. I need good reliable clutch. Nothing has been taken apart. The cat was speared twice, and I'm hoping the ball bearing is in place. After the first oil spill, I checked with a boroscope and genuinely thought I saw the ball bearing, though unable to extract with a magnet. If the bearing was in place, I should be able to move the clutch actuator shaft with the pressure i have in the clutch system. But the actuator shaft has proven not to move. Note. I haven't been able to worm the bike up, due to the fuel tank being treated for sitting for 20 years with bad gas. I will get the tank coated and treated. And I will change the oil. (Stock filter setup) warm the bike up, see if the clutch works. I know what to do. At this point, I think it is an internal issue. I am no fj expert, but I have done a few rebuilds with goood result. Thanks a lot guys, sam.
And speaking on cold oil making the clutch not work properly. I can tell there's is zero disengagement with good lever pressure because I'll put it in first and second and not be able to push the bike with the clutch held in. I have rebuild kits for the front and rear brake mc. Rear may need caliper rebuild. Still waiting on front suspension funds, if I get that far. Bike may prove to be very functional as soon as I figure out this clutch issue. It may be very simple, as you guys have suggested. I'll post some pics of my work I did today. The bike is in good condition, all the slave bolts and everything were tight, but as I said before, it seemed the slave was slightly moving on clutch lever movement, instead of actuating the clutch rod.
Heres some powder coating I did today. Some background here. Bought the bike at auction. Clutch and brake m/c both seeping at the sight glass. Which is why I went with a vrf800 c/mc. I've never had any clutch operation. I don't wanna try and ride it without being able to disengage the clutch. Ok. Powder coat pics, the sprocket cover cracked due to me not knowing the sprocket nut wasn't even threaded to the shaft. No lock easher. It is currently torqued with a new lock washer. Still haven't changed oil and filter. What oil do u recommend?
Oh shit...
(popcorn)
:bomb:
Put the bike in gear and push with the clutch held in, the clutch plates are probably stuck together. I use Mobile One because I feel that the shifting is easier on MY bike.
Chris
I should have read farther down the post list. Put someone small on the bike and get a third person to help push.
Chris
(popcorn)
Easy way to see what the clutch is doing:
Park the bike on the side stand
Remove the clutch cover
Pull in the clutch lever - see/feel if the pressure plate moves
If the pressure plate moves it's probably stuck plates. Just take them apart and smear a little fresh oil on the plates and reassemble.
If the pressure doesn't move - probably a slave or master issue. I'd suggest a NEW slave - a lot of these 30+ year old ones don't rebuild so well.
I agree on popping the clutch cover. Give me vantage on the issue. I am fine with pulling the pressure plate and basket, no issue. I need to inspect and see if the slave can't push the rod, of if the plates are stuck. I know I should get enough push from my m/c, the vfr800 interceptor m/c are nissin 14mm! Will keep y'all posted. I gotta do some work with my rusty manifold studs!! Get the exhaust sanded and re ceramic coated black! In good shape just kinda rusty! Fuckin studs are probably siezed...exhaust seemed to be installed years and years ago. But like the rest of the bike, it's in good shape.
It won't let me post pictures of my freshly coated parts
What method are you using to post pics?
Quote from: FJmonkey on December 10, 2017, 06:36:49 PM
What method are you using to post pics?
The add attachment.
Clutch will work.
Pressure plate moves.
Grab bar