Hello fellow FJers,
My rear tire is getting oily on the extreme right edge of tread. I do see some spots on garage floor, not big but there. Thoughts? I am babying it around right turns right now. It is an 89 stock FJ with V&H 4 into 1 sport system.
Check for leaks around the clutch cover gasket. If it has ever been dropped on the right side, the rear brake lever is likely to crack the clutch cover as well.
Also - If you have a stock airbox you might want to check and see if the PCV hose is properly attached to it, or the crankcase. You might get some oil mist spraying to the rear if not. Kinda' hard to see as it's tucked away between the carbs and the box.
If you have air pods make sure the PCV hose/filter is in good shape - or if it's still there.... :scratch_one-s_head:
Good advice Joe and Paul :good2:
The stock air box can collect oil in the bottom from engine blow by, common with high mileage engines. There is a drain hose at the bottom of the air box.
Open up the air box and clean out the floor and check this drain hose. Reroute it if necessary.
My money is on Joe's diagnosis.
Cheers
My '86 is parked due to oil leaking on the rear tire. It was a cautious ride home when I discovered it. In my case it is a cracked case at the rear mount. This leaked to the left side and transferred to left side of the rear tire. I hope your solution is much easier to fix.
Quote from: Country Joe on September 26, 2017, 10:11:26 AM
Check for leaks around the clutch cover gasket. If it has ever been dropped on the right side, the rear brake lever is likely to crack the clutch cover as well.
Thanks. I will take a closer look there. PO reports no leaks and I have never dropped it but worth a good look.
Quote from: PaulG on September 26, 2017, 10:45:47 AM
Also - If you have a stock airbox you might want to check and see if the PCV hose is properly attached to it, or the crankcase. You might get some oil mist spraying to the rear if not. Kinda' hard to see as it's tucked away between the carbs and the box.
If you have air pods make sure the PCV hose/filter is in good shape - or if it's still there.... :scratch_one-s_head:
I have only owned for three weeks. Have not looked at this but know it has a one piece element that is cleaned versus replaced. I did see a hose that was clear poly that I kind of just tucked back into the frame that was loose. Maybe that is the problem? :Facepalm:
Quote from: FJmonkey on September 26, 2017, 12:08:16 PM
My '86 is parked due to oil leaking on the rear tire. It was a cautious ride home when I discovered it. In my case it is a cracked case at the rear mount. This leaked to the left side and transferred to left side of the rear tire. I hope your solution is much easier to fix.
I can only hope this would not be the case ....
I just recently resolved an oil leak that ultimately was due to a crack in the engine case at the upper right rear mount. It was a mess, leaking oil onto the back of the engine, the rear shock, under the starter and down by the front sprocket onto the oil pan and center stand. Luckily, no oil went onto the tire. To fix this, I loosened and removed the rear mount through bolt. What was surprising was that this bolt had a lot of tension on that mount which was readily apparent when the bolt was removed. It felt like the engine settled to its own equilibrium. To ensure there was no undo stress, I then rotated the anti-vibration rubbers so that the through bolt could be installed easily. Alignment of the sprockets still looked fine. I then treated the case cracks with a flexible high strength silicone called Dirko. Check it out- it is made for this type of fix. So far, the engine is leak free. Hopefully you don't have this issue but if you do, this might work. If this fix doesn't last, I'll remove the engine, drill a small hole into the ends of the cracks and tig weld from the outside only.
Rob
Regular high temp RTV did not fix mine, the TIG welding Ryan did at RPM also did not hold. The current theory is the frame is bent from a low side involving a curb a long time ago. The frame is inducing stress. It also does not help that I use full synth. Dino oil burns off during the weld, full synth does not and contaminates the weld. Making a weld from the outside only difficult and reduced chance of success.
Okay ... Found the leak. Source. On oil pan schematic it is part m25. A hex bolt right side of pan fittex horizontally into pan right above where header collector for Vance & Hines system is. I tightened carefully. It was very loose. I hardly put any pressure on and the very top of the bolt sheared off. The rest remained intact and had plenty of hex left to tighten and stop leak.
PLEASE identify what the heck this is for and where I might acquire a new one? I looked for hours and did not find part or supplier. What is this thing?
#25 plug ($4.14) and #26 o ring ($2.11) still available to buy.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1989/fj1200w/oil-filter (https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1989/fj1200w/oil-filter)
Is this what you're talking about?
Quote from: timleslie1957 on October 17, 2017, 06:35:26 PM
PLEASE identify what the heck this is for and where I might acquire a new one? I looked for hours and did not find part or supplier. What is this thing?
Tim,
You you could have saved yourself
hours by heading right over to
RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com). If you have the part number from the Yamaha schematic, you can enter that into the
RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com) website search function. If it is a stocking part on the
RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com) shelves it will pop right up.
Oil Pan Galley Plug (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-15189-00)
Here is the current oil ring for that galley plug:
Oil Pan Galley O-ring (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=93210-16325)
The banner ad at the top of every page is not false advertising...
#1 Worldwide Source for FJ PartsRandy -
RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com)
I'll have to fix the photos tomorrow, but that is the plug & o-ring you are referring to.
Yes!
Quote from: racerrad8 on October 17, 2017, 06:54:36 PM
Quote from: timleslie1957 on October 17, 2017, 06:35:26 PM
PLEASE identify what the heck this is for and where I might acquire a new one? I looked for hours and did not find part or supplier. What is this thing?
Tim,
You you could have saved yourself hours by heading right over to RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com). If you have the part number from the Yamaha schematic, you can enter that into the RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com) website search function. If it is a stocking part on the RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com) shelves it will pop right up.
Oil Pan Galley Plug (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=36Y-15189-00)
The banner ad at the top of every page is not false advertising...#1 Worldwide Source for FJ Parts
Randy - RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com)
I'll have to fix the photo tomorrow, but that is the plug you are referring to.
Thanks. I will order it and ring tomorrow.
Happy that your leak is easy to fix, awesome!
Okay, I ordered the washer and bolt today. NOW - can anyone tell me what this is for??? I have never used it and the Haynes speaks nill I can see thus far of it. help my ignorance become learning! Thanks gang!
If it is the plug I think you refer to, a mechanic told me they are used for measuring oil pressure if there is a suspicion of some problems.
Quote from: balky1 on October 18, 2017, 02:36:07 PM
If it is the plug I think you refer to, a mechanic told me they are used for measuring oil pressure if there is a suspicion of some problems.
Thanks! The thing just sort of decayed as I was tightening it due to leakage around it. I guess cheap original metal and machining.
Hey guys .... a six pack of cold american beer to the guy or gal that can give me bolt size, thread pitch, etc for this thing? I need to find something until mine comes in from RPM ....... I will be jonsing to ride waiting three days!
Can't help with size or pitch so looks like I dip out on the six pack. There's three of those plugs though on the motor, one each side and one on the front bottom of the block under the headers. Randy sell the adapter so you can fit either an oil pressure or more useful oil temp gauge. I run my oil temp gauge from the front one as its well out of the way and safe in case of a fall.
Quote from: timleslie1957 on October 18, 2017, 03:16:06 PM
Hey guys .... a six pack of cold american beer to the guy or gal that can give me bolt size, thread pitch, etc for this thing?
If you're referring to the oil gallery plug hole threads, they're M20 X 1.5
I finally figured out what I think is the entire story to the mystery of the oily tire. First off, I found that the gallery bolt was broken and cracked ... strange in itself. I replaced said bolt and washer after Randy from RPM saved me with his exemplary service, getting said bolt within three days coast to coast. WOW. I don't get stuff that fast from PA or FL! The new bolt ceased the oily mess accumulating upon the side of the tread and the more than should be smoke at stop lights on hot days. No more smoke, and I can lean right and tight again!
Anyhoos ... I later this week recalled that when the PO and I were getting this beast aboard the 4x4 rental truck I had used to pick it up, it "hung up" mid frame due to a tad too much angle of tailgate and ramp. We slid her up and over, but now I suspect the damage was done then as he had no such problem prior and I did nothing to bring this catastrophe upon it as well. Lesson learned ... lower tailgate, more hill, larger laborers or invest in a frigging trailer already!
Call out to RPM Randy ... I say again .... WOW. :good2:
Quote from: timleslie1957 on October 23, 2017, 09:40:50 AM
Call out to RPM Randy ... I say again .... WOW. :good2:
Thanks Tim, that is what we strive for.
Randy - RPM