As the title says, I'm looking at either an FJ1200 or possibly a 900 Ninja, both mid 80's originals. While I'm interested in everyone's opinions on which one is a better bike for commuting and occasional weekend jaunts to a campground a few hours away, that's not really why I'm writing.
It seems like every FJ I've seen has the paint cooked off the cylinder fins, and occasionally the heads as well. Is this a red flag that the motor has been repeatedly overheated, or is the paint known to flake off on its own after 20 years?
I'm aware of the starter clutch and the second gear issues on older models, but are there any other weak links to look for when considering one of these models?
I'm most likely looking at an 88 to 90 model (with the 17 inch tires) but I intend to repaint it in the '84 red/silver paint scheme. (best looking year for the big FJ's IMHO)
Thanks, looking forward to your replies!!!
Hello Robbie, take a look at this: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2028.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2028.0)
It is common to have 30 year old paint flake off a big air cooled inline 4 engine. No big deal.
If you're worried about buying a heat damaged engine, do a hot compression test, or better yet, do a leak down test.
Cheers
The 89+ have 17" front and 16" rear. However, putting a 17" on the rear is easy and well documented. I put a GSXR rear on and it was a bolt on upgrade. Other rears require a little machine work but still worth the upgrade.
The fins on my '92 ABS are almost bare aluminum, while the rest of the motor is fine. Strictly a cosmetic issue. The article cited touches on a few basic commonalities but here's a few extra I came accross when I bought mine in '07 and a few I've heard of:
(note: I've linked some items to the RPM website [among others] in the banner above - but have no affiliation - receive no commission [yet! :mocking:] - but fully endorse their FJ product line - one stop shopping).
Cosmetics: Since it's built like a tank almost all FJ's will eventually have broken or cracked front fender tab mounts. This is due to fork flex over time and is cured by a fork brace (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace). If it has a belly pan, it is quite common for it to crack near the left rear mounting point. The side covers can crack with the repeated removal over the years, and some of the mounting pegs may be broken. The fairing "protectors" that are clipped onto the air scoops have a tendancy to go missing - even a minor tip over could knock them off. All of these are easily repairable with proper ABS cement (not the plumber type) or plastic welding. These are also usually available on the internet if a replacement is required. The OEM main front fairings are rather stout since they carry a lot of electronics on the inside.
Suspension: Both front and rear OEM set-up is overly soft from the factory. Adequate for sedate touring maybe, but even if you only do the occasional sport ride it will need changing. Adding fork valves (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve) and changing the springs does wonders apparently. There are also many aftermarket replacement rear shocks from RPM (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMShock%2884-88%29), but also Hagon (https://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/catalog/partdetail.aspx?partno=M62060), Penske (http://shop.penskeshocks.com/PENSKE-RACING-SHOCKS-8975-IN-LINE-DOUBLE-ADJUSTABLE/), Nitron (http://www.nitron.co.uk/catalogue_item.php?catID=12774&prodID=74509) to name just a few. The rear linkage gets exposed to a lot of road grime/chain lube. Lots of needle bearings which can wear that can cause the bike to wander in long corners.
Motor: A beast. A big lump. Torque monster. Unbreakable. The EverReady Bunny of engines. Virtually unchanged during it's production life because it worked so good. You are already aware of the transmission weakness on the early models. Simple to work on - no plumbing. Valve shim adjustments are a breeze and infrequent. In stock form 200,000-300,000km are common without any rebuilds if the bike hasn't been thrashed around too much. I'm at around 230,000km. If you can afford the fines, it will cruise at 100mph for days on end. Depending on sprocket sizes it can buzz at +/-3,000rpm (carbs out of synch) then +/-4,0000rpm (rubber engine mounts). If properly maintained this is near to non-existant.
Exhaust: The OEM mufflers are very heavy but do provide a nice mid-range punch for everyday street riding. If you change to an aftermarket kit there is little difference. It creates enough torque to compensate. The 4-2 collector box underneath the oil pan can rot out - especially if there isn't a belly pan. The 4-1 RPM system (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPMHeader) is specifically designed for the FJ - fits under the belly pans - no removal for oil changes. There are the usual 4-1 (V&H, Supertrapp) that reuire fiddling. Delkvic (http://www.delkevic.us/index.php?route=product/category&path=1_20674_21379_21436&category_string=Motorcycles%20%26gt%3B%20Yamaha%20%26gt%3B%201992%20%3E%20FJ1200%20(1989-1993)) has a popular 4-2 system. I threw on a pair of slip-on cans which doesn't require any rejetting (with ja stock airbox).
You will be inundated with advice on what mods to proceed with even before you buy the bike. Like I just did... :pardon: Oh look I'm not the only one! The FJ is a very good platform on it's own - but lends itself to a myriad of mods - more so than most bikes due to it's verastility. Hard core track bike or long distance tourer - or something in between are easily attainable.
I'm sure the GPZ900 is a good bike (never rode one) but (in a very biased opinion) the FJ is the pinnacle for the UJM.
See ya' soon? :hi:
Well done Paul! :good2:
That was very well written and every bit of it is true. When I bought my 86 I found all of these things to be true. There is definitely a huge wealth of info. here. Father Pat is a great source as well Randy and Robert at RPM. The RPM boys have just about everything you need for repairs and can point you in the right direction for anything else you need. Sadly I sold my FJ this spring, not because I wanted to but because the body could not handle it any more. Big R
Maybe Steve (Moparman) will comment, he owns an early 900 Ninja. He only mentioned it having a cooling/over heating issue. Not a big problem unless you get stuck in stop n go stuff.
Yes all is true about the FJ, its my favorite from the 80's and I own a 86. My very best favorte 2 bikes were the FJ and the ZX900A1, for me they are two of the best looking bikes out of Japan in the 80's and both kick some ass. The Ninja is known for piss poor starter clutch which is a massive repair, never heard anything bad about the FJ starter clutch, they are known for over heating issues that can be modified, hard as hell to bleed the air from cooling system but that being said they are fairly tough engines, powerful liquid cooled quiet engines, very flickable in corners and handles well, power comes from the higher end of the revs and does not have the low end stomp like the FJ, do to the ZX being new design of its erra its smaller 900cc mill and weight compared to the mighty FJ and the Ninja being very narrow in total width its top speed was grater then the FJ. In 1984 TT production class the ZX came in 1st and 2nd, the FJ(1100) was 3rd or fourth, I dont recall if it beat the Suzuki for 3rd. My opinion means beans but if I were you I would go with the FJ, it has so many pro's then con's and is fit for war, the ZX needs a little more ground support but is a great performer. Just standing beside the Ninja you can hear the lumpy cam shafts at idle, its sounds fantastic when kookaloo hits in. If it was simple to post up a pic on here I would show you both bikes, love them both.
Quote from: PaulG on August 09, 2017, 03:16:05 PM
(note: I've linked some items to the RPM website [among others] in the banner above - but have no affiliation - receive no commission [yet! :mocking:] - but fully endorse their FJ product line - one stop shopping).
Paul,
I hope a heart felt thank you will do.
:hi: Thank you :hi:
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on August 10, 2017, 07:18:45 PM
Quote from: PaulG on August 09, 2017, 03:16:05 PM
(note: I've linked some items to the RPM website [among others] in the banner above - but have no affiliation - receive no commission [yet! :mocking:] - but fully endorse their FJ product line - one stop shopping).
Paul,
I hope a heart felt thank you will do.
:hi: Thank you :hi:
Randy - RPM
If I ever make it to California you can buy me a
decent beer. :drinks:
Howdy RobbieNobbie,
Below is a post from over two years ago (1/10/15).
Still valid - in fact, following this years WCR even more so...
Ride safe...
A Paean to a Sport Tourer
Good evening gentlemen,
After reading the various comments re: The Best Sport-Touring Bike, it may be true that the "Sport" part of sport touring has been diminished. Large heavyweight motorcycles are for "Touring"; however despite claims to the contrary, they seem to be lacking in the "Sport" department; and while there are true "Sport" motorcycles on the market, they seem to be lacking from the "Touring" aspect. No doubt there are exceptions to the rule; however they seem to be few and far between.
As it pertains to a combination of over the road and sport riding the FJ performs exceptionally well. While the design may be old, with the modern updates (suspension, tires, and brakes et al) it is anything but old, and all for much less than the cost of a new motorcycle. While 100 hp may be modest by today's standard, it remains in and of itself a considerable amount of hp. It remains competitive with both long distance and sport motorcycles.
Long service intervals are more than an advantage, they are a necessity. Hoping not to jinx myself or other owners, the overall reliability of the FJ seems to be quite good and well founded. As my over the road rides are usually unaccompanied, often fast paced and frequently in desolate and isolated surroundings, it is an important aspect which is appreciated.
There is also an auxiliary fuel tank utilized because often stops are few and far between; throughout the Western States there are still remnants of small town America left to explore and the extra range is needed during late or all night excursions. On other occasions mere curiosity gives rise to a desire to explore an intoxicating and beautiful, seemingly unending and almost overwhelming landscape.
Over the road journeys are exceptionally comfortable; yet should a situation arise where the "sport" aspect is encountered, to date the FJ has held its own against other motorcycles and the occasional encounter with an automobile; typically without regard to ambient conditions and at a moment's notice without fiddling with power modes or on the fly suspension changes. Especially at night when traveling at speed, unseen and potentially dangerous road surfaces are regularly encountered that simply do not allow time for 'on the fly" adjustments.
As far as comparative weight, statements about the BMW being lighter are incorrect, add in the weight savings from a modern exhaust and the lithium battery and the FJ is perhaps less. The high cost of repairs is almost a given as unlike the FJ, most new motorcycles are difficult to repair should an electrical or mechanical problem be encountered. The driveshaft is more complex than the chain (a 'weak link' in some BMW's) and with the extended life spans of modern chains they are almost a non issue – with few adjustments necessary.
As an aside: However unfounded the claims, it is a fact that the ''lecture'' on chains and auto lubrication was breeding somnolence. The "testimonials" cited have about as much validity as those quoted when the oil thread discussion gets heated. As shown in the videos, if you believe that a drop or drops of oil (in wet, dry or dusty conditions) at speed is beneficial, that is your uncontested prerogative. Gentlemen, please do not misconstrue, chain oilers just gotta work 'cause the model most recommended is made by Barnum, specifically the P.T. model. It is claimed to be better than beer, booze & broads – well better than the beer and booze anyways... It's positively true; there is even a bottle of Old Calhoun's Whiskey due & payable at the next WCR...! I know, I know... but someone had to say it, perhaps they will listen now...!
Back to the subject at hand: it has been said that pictures are quaint, so below is a video that emphasizes both aspects of Sport and Tourer; it is a compilation of rides in 2014. From November, some high desert footage (while perhaps foreboding I have never found it to be boring) traveling into a beautiful, almost intoxicating, painted sky; when after having left the far northern mountains of California, I ventured south to Texas, then traveled north through the Rockies on the way to Idaho before returning to California. Almost no traffic so late in the year, a most delightful ride. There is a clip of a storm front I was heading into, taken when I stopped to change my visor from tint to clear. Once in Idaho increased rain and a considerable amount of off road mud was encountered. When there is a discussion about dual sport riding, if tooling along is not your cup of tea, simply be judicious with the throttle and you will not tear up the tires nor fall off the 'edge' of the earth.
Heck, on some unknown back country road there were even wild animals encountered with asses not nearly as wide as the luggage seen on some motorcycles (true touring rigs, no doubt!); fortunately it did not affect the chain – only the fairing and a speck or two on the face shield – however Barnum's semi- automatic face shield cleaner saved the day... whew... Seeing is believing...!
Okay, as usual it is mostly true and it all began in the early morning hours while crossing a bridge to who knew where when, once again, I was Wandering Aimlessly...
In closing, Happy New Year to everyone, remember to stay in good humor, laugh at ourselves from time to time (!) and of course always ride safe.
Midget
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAObr8z9Vr0&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAObr8z9Vr0&feature=youtu.be)
BELOW IS THE 2017 WCR....
Hello everyone,
Here is video from the 2017 West Coast Rally. Although short in length, the objective is that it captures the intensity of the riding; and said riding was all encompassing. Without exception it was like this all day & each day... just delightful!
It should be noted that riders depicted are closer that they seem – unfortunately a limitation of the type of camera used.
Other participants (along with those in the video) are Mr. Olsen & Rick C. The quiet gentleman LA Mike is in the mix as well. There may be others but I was rather occupied to do an exact count.
Flynt is usually in view as well, but apparently the first day he was fortifying himself for the elected position for which he was chosen and the second day he was recovering from the effects of the aforementioned fortifying...
Although there are better camera mounts available, this was the only one that made its' way to the Rally. Apologies as although I am just a little guy, it seems as if a senior moment happened... or so Mr. Conlon explained to me... or was it a Canadian who explained...? I can't seem to recall...!
Yet I do recall that the speedometer is a satellite monitored gauge so the speeds noted are actual speeds even though the speedometer is rotated to allow for a better camera angle. The 12 o'clock position is 100 mph and it tops at 120 mph. However, it is not all about speed; before one goes quickly, the slow corners must be taken slowly...
All in good fun gentlemen (and the other fellows too...!)
Put it on full screen and turn up the volume!
Ride safe,
Midget
https://youtu.be/JrJLeWX3bZY
Quote from: Mike Ramos on August 11, 2017, 02:00:47 AM
.......... if you believe that a drop or drops of oil (in wet, dry or dusty conditions) at speed is beneficial, that is your uncontested prerogative.
You can see the oil dampness on the side plates and the rollers have a gray film on them which is lubricant. This bike had just been subjected to all the condtions you mentioned so I guess it is benficial! This is not speculation but first hand experience over long distances. Photos so it must have happened.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/381/18867168818_2b4e1cf253_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4382/36126034280_8249380d74_c.jpg)
I had not touched my chain for tens of thousands of km's prior to this photo.
Mike, what do you lube your chain with, especially in wet, dry or dusty conditions?
Noel
Here are a few pics of the FJ I'm looking at... or intend to look at once the owner returns from vacation.
I asked three questions that he was unable to answer, owing, he says, to the very short time he's owned the bike. (he says <200mi)
1. does the V&H pipe on it require removal before changing the oil/filter
2. does the pipe (assuming properly jetted) deminish the low end punch of this motor?
3. does the backrest on that corbin seat remove? (I've seen some that use a single screw to retain a tab that inserts into a slot underneath the Corbin tag on the back, but I've heard others comment that their's are non-removable)
Anything jump out at you about this bike that might raise a red flag?
Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer!
(https://images.craigslist.org/01414_5wOEEoqk48y_1200x900.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00d0d_hVna6DMR7nx_1200x900.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00j0j_lyzBe95sHpj_1200x900.jpg)
1. Yes, you have to remove the V&H pipe to drain the oil. It's not horribly difficult, but make sure you have a set of exhaust port gaskets on hand, just in case.
2. I had a V&H 4-1 on my 1990 FJ 1200, never had the stock exhaust on it, but never felt like it lacked punch on the bottom end. It pulled like a train from 3,500 to the redline.
3. Both Corbin seats I have had on FJs has been removable.
I see some plastic damage, but nothing that would keep me from buying it if the price is right.
Quote from: RobbieKNobbie on August 14, 2017, 11:19:14 AM
Here are a few pics of the FJ I'm looking at... or intend to look at once the owner returns from vacation.
I asked three questions that he was unable to answer, owing, he says, to the very short time he's owned the bike. (he says <200mi)
1. does the V&H pipe on it require removal before changing the oil/filter
2. does the pipe (assuming properly jetted) deminish the low end punch of this motor?
3. does the backrest on that corbin seat remove? (I've seen some that use a single screw to retain a tab that inserts into a slot underneath the Corbin tag on the back, but I've heard others comment that their's are non-removable)
Anything jump out at you about this bike that might raise a red flag?
Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer!
(https://images.craigslist.org/01414_5wOEEoqk48y_1200x900.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00d0d_hVna6DMR7nx_1200x900.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00j0j_lyzBe95sHpj_1200x900.jpg)
Thanks for the info, Joe!
Besides the missing plastic bumpers on the air intake and the missing chin spoiler, what damage do you see?
What years of the chin spoiler are interchangable? When I repaint the bike, I'd like to have the bodywork complete, but I think I've read that the plastics are not the same from model to model.
Let's keep it in the family!
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17192.msg89449#new (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17192.msg89449#new)
Quote from: RobbieKNobbie on August 14, 2017, 11:57:00 AM
Thanks for the info, Joe!
Besides the missing plastic bumpers on the air intake and the missing chin spoiler, what damage do you see?
What years of the chin spoiler are interchangable? When I repaint the bike, I'd like to have the bodywork complete, but I think I've read that the plastics are not the same from model to model.
Robbie,
The left side windscreen support cover is missing, those are not impossible to find, just yet.
The side scoops bumpers are still available from RPM Racing.
I'm not for sure, but I think there are only two different chin fairings. The FJ 1100s and 1986/1987 are the same, I believe and the 1989 through 1993 are all the same. If that's not correct someone will clarify.
Quote from: Country Joe on August 14, 2017, 02:31:29 PM
I'm not for sure, but I think there are only two different chin fairings. The FJ 1100s and 1986/1987 are the same, I believe and the 1989 through 1993 are all the same. If that's not correct someone will clarify.
The 84/85 are the same, the 86+ are the same.
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 14, 2017, 03:46:23 PM
Quote from: Country Joe on August 14, 2017, 02:31:29 PM
I'm not for sure, but I think there are only two different chin fairings. The FJ 1100s and 1986/1987 are the same, I believe and the 1989 through 1993 are all the same. If that's not correct someone will clarify.
Mark,
Thanks for the clarification.
Joe
The 84/85 are the same, the 86+ are the same.
Quote from: ribbert on August 12, 2017, 10:07:14 AM
Quote from: Mike Ramos on August 11, 2017, 02:00:47 AM
.......... if you believe that a drop or drops of oil (in wet, dry or dusty conditions) at speed is beneficial, that is your uncontested prerogative.
You can see the oil dampness on the side plates and the rollers have a gray film on them which is lubricant. This bike had just been subjected to all the condtions you mentioned so I guess it is benficial! This is not speculation but first hand experience over long distances. Photos so it must have happened.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/381/18867168818_2b4e1cf253_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4382/36126034280_8249380d74_c.jpg)
I had not touched my chain for tens of thousands of km's prior to this photo.
Mike, what do you lube your chain with, especially in wet, dry or dusty conditions?
Noel
Good evening,
RE: Chain lube.
[Hmm, this Post was originally from over two years ago – the comments all with good humor – wide saddle bags, face shield cleaner et al, are rather out of context at this late date.]
Noel - To answer your question, I use, and have for a long time the Tri-Flow. It keeps the O-rings lubricated and intact, which leads to long chain life. Simple, quick and efficient.
It cleans up easily with a quick wipe down of the rim & left side of the center stand. Like you, I seldom adjust the chain. No sludge build up, even behind the front sprocket cover when changing the sprocket. Most certainly it doesn't leave the caked on buildup you pictured which would seem a detriment to proper lubrication & lead to excess wear – and as you state, if there are pictures it must be true.
But were comparing apple & oranges...
Slogging through mud seem to be your forte and you search it out. Although I do live down a gravel and sometimes muddy road, and I occasionally end up riding down a sandy desert road (and if the conditions are good, several times I have buzzed along with the fabled "dual sports"), I sometimes have no choice in the matter.
However, it is my belief that the high intensity road riding in all kinds of weather year round is hard on the equipment, especially on roads that are in poor condition; much more so that slogging along through the mud and mud puddles (yep, pictures of that too...!).
I do not remember when I last adjusted the chain – the last two sets of tires I simply pulled the axle and did not alter the chain adjustment; the set I road to the Colorado Rally and one set previous (this new set I hope to still be able to ride at the Renegade & RPM Rallies).
The Colorado Rally itself was all at a decent pace and the coming & going was definitely vigorous and unremitting. At times a lot of rain & some serious muddy road repair work (including pilot cars) could not be avoided.
Having experienced the riding you do and the nature of the majority that I do, there is no real comparison.
One thing that does parallel is how we observe & perceive of the stars at night – the high desert is not as expansive as the great Outback, but the isolation is spectacular and at times all-embracing... ah but then the mountains with the wind through the trees can be splendid indeed....
Ride safe
Well Gents, looks like today's the day. I'm going to look at the 89 FJ1200 mentioned above after work this evening. While the 900Ninja isn't completely out of contention, I'm leaning towards the FJ, mostly because of the generous low and midrange punch that motor is known for. The owner sent me some pictures of the 'paint scratches' and they're not terrible, but I think I see a broken fairing in there. Not the end of the world since I plan to repaint it over the winter, but it is another pain in the rear to deal with.
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l166/robbieknobbie/89%20FJ1200/IMG_20170822_182131123_zpslydhsek8.jpg) (http://s96.photobucket.com/user/robbieknobbie/media/89%20FJ1200/IMG_20170822_182131123_zpslydhsek8.jpg.html)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l166/robbieknobbie/89%20FJ1200/IMG_20170822_182155836_HDR_zpsbhrcltdz.jpg) (http://s96.photobucket.com/user/robbieknobbie/media/89%20FJ1200/IMG_20170822_182155836_HDR_zpsbhrcltdz.jpg.html)
The engine cover on the other hand, uhmm, I don't know about that. Are they still available? I just did a quick ebay search and came up with just one, and it's in maybe acceptable condition. Are there any other models that use this same cover?
Lot of surface rust here and there. Do these bikes have any known weak spots when it comes to rust?
Here's the complete CL ad...
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6232074300.html (https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/6232074300.html)
I think his price is a little high for the condition, but I'm sure we will be able to work something out if it's the right bike.
Pictures from photobucket are not working but looking at the add it appears the Ignition Pick-Up Cover (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=5EA-15416-20-00) is what you are referring too. Click the blue letters and it will take you to brand new ones. Also, if you do end up picking the FJ up these, 84-90 FJ Engine Bar Set (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=84-90FJEB), as many here can attest are a very wise investment to prevent that from happening again.
Robert - RPM (http://www.rpmracingca.com/index.asp)
Well it turns out it was the right bike at the right price. I'm the very happy owner of a bouncing baby FJ1200 :yahoo:
The clutch needed a bleeding (bad!), but aside from that it seems to be mechanically sound. I put about 50 miles on it last night and I noticed the shifter effort is a little higher than I'm comfortable with, but I'm not going to worry about that until I put good oil in there. The rear brake feels like it might be warped, so I'll put an indicator on there and see what it looks like. Aside from that it needs good going over with a can of lube (levers, cables, chain, suspension etc. That'll be a good opportunity to get to know the bike better and look for any potential problems.
The pipes do need to be removed for an oil change, the headers collect together directly below the drain plug :nea: and there's about 2mm clearance before the drain plug head hits the pipe.
All in all, I'm looking forward to many many happy miles with my new friend!
Congratulations!
The slave cylinder seal is a known failure point; the engines get hot, the seals get brittle, and then air leaks in / fluid leaks out. Bleeding it is a short-term fix once the seal gets hardened, and it can be tough to bleed even with a good seal. (I find it helps to wiggle the line between the slave cylinder and the bottom of the left-hand fairing, which helps air bubbles rise to the master cylinder.) Replacing the seal is not expensive, I'm sure Randy (post above yours) has plenty in stock for about the price of a tank of fuel. Worse comes to worst, even a new slave cylinder is not that bad, price wise, but I have had good luck cleaning mine thoroughly (I think I replaced it once, 50,000 miles ago.)
I find shift quality to vary wildly depending on what oil is in the crankcase, how much of it is still there, and how old or hot it is. I have my best results with "the heaviest Mobil 1 I can find," preferably 15w-50 but it's been okay lately on whatever-w-40 that's in there now. Shift quality gets worse as the mileage accumulates since the last oil change, and 3,000 miles was about where I felt it appropriate to change the oil. Nowadays, it burns enough oil to light the "OIL" light long before that, which also makes the shift quality worse; I top it off which helps the shifting (and the oil light.) And, as it gets hot in commuter traffic, the shifting gets rougher as the oil gets hotter. A few minutes at speed makes it better again.
Enjoy the bike!
Bill, Thanks for the great info on the clutch. I just ordered a rebuild kit, so hopefully that issue will be headed off before it gets serious.
Are you using standard (automotive) Mobil 1, or is there a motorcycle-specific blend out there?
Robbie's new, so be kind folks.
Short Answer: Robbie, you want a motorcycle specific oil, one that is safe for wet clutches. Automotive oils have friction modifiers in them which can cause clutch slippage. Mobil 1 makes a motorcycle specific oil.
We have had several long debates on this forum on oil for our FJ's and so we tend to shy away from that topic.
So....what about those Dodgers?
What oil are the Dodgers using? That has to be some really good stuff...
Quote from: RobbieKNobbie on August 24, 2017, 12:05:19 PM
Lot of surface rust here and there....
Not to worry, that's called
patinaQuote from: FJmonkey on August 25, 2017, 06:27:27 PM
What oil are the Dodgers using? That has to be some really good stuff...
Why it must be this obviously...
That seems bad for my liver and the bike... But I bet it feels sooooo good.
:Facepalm:
'Ole Robbie's finally getting a taste for what's in store....
Notice how we pull this shit *after* he bought his bike?
We can't help if he purchased first then researched second. The gloves are off. :diablo: But he is in good hands, we might be tough at times, but any FJ fan is welcome. Ownership is not required. :good2:
Pat and I disagree on the harm done by friction-modifiers on wet clutches, as well as "what year Miata was the best Miata." (I consider anything with power steering to be inferior, and anything lacking pop-up headlights to be "not a Miata.")
I have used standard old car-style 15w-50 Mobil 1 primarily, and have never had motorcycle-specific oil in my FJ at all. That could be why my original one lasted only 80,000 miles. At only 116,000 currently, it's too soon to tell if I'm ruining my replacement one prematurely. Then again, my engine is probably making half the power Pat's is, so maybe mine is weak enough not to slip any clutch and his is strong enough to slip almost any clutch.
Bill and I have more in common than not....
I recall a couple of quotes from Bwob: "The NB's are better cars, but the NA's are better Miatas" and "If you can't go fast with 80 horsepower, 800 horsepower won't help you"..
Purchase first/research second? Not hardly, sir. This is my 16th bike in 31 years. It is however my first FJ1200, so I expect I will have lots of model-specific questions, but the statement of Bill's that he was putting automotive Mobil-1 in his FJ raised a red flag because I did know that is not generally recommended, not because I didn't know the difference.
As it stands, I am draining the oil as we speak (as it were) and am replacing it with Yamaha Semi-Synthetic, because that's what I've been using in my 1200 Bandit and my daughter's Ninja 250 for years, and several other bikes before that.
Anyway, I'm getting to know her better and better the more miles I rack up, and she's proving to be a fine machine, especially considering her age. No problems with 2nd popping out or anything like that. And of course I appreciate the vast technical support available from the guys on this forum.
So anyway, THANKS for all the advise, and I hope to be around for a while, maybe meet up with some of you folks if you ever have a rally on the east coast!
I like this guy already...
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 27, 2017, 09:54:06 PM
I like this guy already...
Yes, me too... I will have to revise my statement:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 25, 2017, 04:49:13 PM
..Robbie's new, so be kind folks....
Robbie, may be new to the forum, but he's far more experienced with various different motorcycles than I....
I think he sand bagged us... :good2:
Well to cap off this thread about the suitability of FJ1200's to go sport-touring on, here's the proof in the pudding...
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/10/5939_30_08_17_9_05_05.jpeg)
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/10/5939_30_08_17_9_07_32.jpeg)
My youngest and I went on a mid-week mini camping trip. About 2 hours each way, and we only spent a day at the park, but the bike was an absolute gem! no problems whatsoever, and she didn't mind being loaded with gear in the least, Excellent bike to load up and strike out on.
So THANKS again guys for all your help, and your guidance away from the Ninja 900. In retrospect I don't thiink that bike would have done the trip as well as the FJ,
First of many!
Wait we're not finished yet! What brand of soft luggage are you using?
BTW - you know you'll have to get another one in a few years when your youngest is old enough to ride that one on her own.
Shit, I missed the oil frenzy...
Time with the kids, very nice....
Quote from: ZOA NOM on August 30, 2017, 11:18:01 PM
Shit, I missed the oil frenzy...
I'm with you. I do love a good old Oil or Tyre debate.
Robbie, enjoy the time with family and the bike. Looks like you got a winner there
Mark
Quote from: RobbieKNobbie on August 30, 2017, 10:15:35 AM
Well to cap off this thread about the suitability of FJ1200's to go sport-touring on, here's the proof in the pudding...
<snip>
My youngest and I went on a mid-week mini camping trip. About 2 hours each way, and we only spent a day at the park, but the bike was an absolute gem! no problems whatsoever, and she didn't mind being loaded with gear in the least...
Obviously, you've never seen the Deanabago.
Robbie,
Congrats on the FJ. I'm a few hours away and have a lot of experience with FJ's. If you ever find yourself in central PA, look me up.
Or the Yamabago that Simi_ed rode to both the WCR and the central rally in Ouray. Pics are missing thanks to Photo#uckit...
Noel does a nice job with packing it on...
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8545/8706399293_629afa5609_c.jpg)
The Beverly Hillbillies on a FJ.... All that's missing is the rocking chair.