47K miles, air box was out and right side exhaust has a rust spot. So I thought I would pull the plugs, they were really light. Right on the spot I decided to put the air box in and not play with any of the jetting.
While I was there and she is in the garage, I pulled the valve cover and started to check the valves. I am now waiting on a manual and the special tool to come in for the shims. At least I don't have to pull the cams on this bike, my XJ700X was another story.
So at least the old girl with get some better air with the air box put in. Get the correct valve clearance and then re-synch the carbs. In the mean time looking at ebay and other places for a front end replacement, 17" tire and all the stuff that goes with it. I will also be looking at some blue dot calibers as well, I like to have good brakes.
Again, thanks to all for the great information and write-ups you have on the forum. I will continue to keep learning about this bike.
I see what looks like maybe rust on the cams, this is strange to me, anyone else think that is strange?
If that is rust it won't matter much, being in an oil bath and all. Good reason to get her out often to keep the fluids moving.
Quote from: Timbox on May 07, 2017, 07:07:14 PM
In the mean time looking at ebay and other places for a front end replacement, 17" tire and all the stuff that goes with it. I will also be looking at some blue dot calibers as well, I like to have good brakes.
Again, thanks to all for the great information and write-ups you have on the forum. I will continue to keep learning about this bike.
Here is a price breakdown for the 17" wheel swap using 1989 and later FJ parts and the cost of my recent USD fork conversion. The parts with the * are optional, but highly recommended.
17" wheel and late model FJ forks conversion:
Forks: $192.00
Blue/Silver/Gold dot calipers $70.00
Wheel $93.70
Arashi Rotors $180.00
RPM fork valves $213.61*
RPM fork brace $125.00*
Racetech springs $129.95*
Fork oil 5w $18.47*
= $1022,73 * not including shipping cost from RPM
GSX-R1000 front end mod
Forks, including triple tree, axle, wheel spacer and caliper bolts $306.00
Hand grips $16.95
Bar ends $88.50
Rotors $152.09
Carbon fiber fender $124.46 (OEM fenders are about $40.00)
Titanium rotor bolts $49.99
Calipers $50.00
Lower FJ triple and stem $32.79 (not required if you use the one off of your existing FJ)
Front wheel $139.99
Handle Bars $161.00
Handle Bar extensions $150.00
Machine work $100.00
= $1487.77
Once again, these prices are very subjective. If you buy everything new for either mod, the price will be much higher, or you could find items at much lower cost and save a few dollars.
Fred
Fred,
Thanks for the break down from both directions. I do like those USD forks, wow so nice and sexy! I just sold my Bandit 1200S so I have some funds to play with. The FJ just feels right when you are in the seat. Not too sure how else I can explain the comfort the brings to my riding position.
That being said, I am willing to put the time and some money to make her feel a little younger around the newer bikes. I have been reading how many of the older FJ's feel so much better with the USD or the newer forks. I just know that these 86 front forks have got to have HELP.
Taking it slow and doing it right will be the course. I have several other bikes to ride but my speed mode is limited, just my Maxim x I just finished and that does not compare with the 1200's.
re: the camshaft discoloration.
If it will put your mind at ease, I inspect camshafts off the line and I see a few that have that appearance, or almost like a calico cat with shades from cream to dark brown on the raw casting areas. Nothing wrong with them. I haven't been given an explanation as to why, but the bulk castings come to us that way (we machine them).
As long as it's not a loose flaky coating of particles that would stain a rag like rust would if you rubbed hard on it, I wouldn't be concerned.
Charlie
Charlie,
Yes it does help out my mind at ease. I mean the bike has been running well but lean and that I can correct. But to see the cams that way, well that was a little disheartening. The lobs look really good with no scaring so I thought it was just strange to see that rust looking stuff.
Again, thanks again for clearing things up.
I am gonna guess that is flash rust. High carbon content steels can get a very light rust during a wash and dry. i saw it on many parts going through a conveyor powder coating line with a 5 stage wash process. When the wash stages get out of wack the rust happens. Not good for the durability of the powder coat going over it.
I have this same brownish discoloration on several places on my cams. Always wondered what it was.
fjbiker84;
Good pic. That's an example of the exact kind of random pattern and color we see on finished parts I was describing.
RE: Camshaft "color"
That is white paint...
It is not rust or any other form of discoloration.
Randy - RPM
I kinda thought it looked like paint but that raises the question: Why? There is no logic to its location. I have it all over the left side exhaust cam and randomly on both sides of the intake but none of the paint markings have any remote indication that a human applied the paint with some purpose in mind.
Quote from: fjbiker84 on May 09, 2017, 07:01:19 PM
I kinda thought it looked like paint but that raises the question: Why?
That is a question I cannot answer. I do know the new cams do not have that white paint markings on either cam.
Here is a cam from an engine I am currently building for a race car.
Randy - RPM
Maybe for that number 3 to stand out for some reason? :morning1: