When going to work a week ago my signals started acting up. They would stay on and not flash, but would cancel, and then didn't work at all. Once home the next day I observed the relay didn't appear to be working. On my test run two weeks ago I noticed the signal switch seemed rather stiff, and it took a couple of jabs for them to cancel.
Firstly, all the fuses were OK. I even bought new replacements and replaced them one at a time, and nothing changed. Then I took the switch apart and flushed it out with contact cleaner. After putting it back together I still got nothing. Since an OEM relay is +$100, and after checking for alternatives on this site (I'm averse to doing any rewiring if possible), I decided to take the plunge and order a used OEM off Ebay for $25.
After installing the new relay, the signals work great - except - the switch wouldn't cancel them. I could signal left/right but not cancel. After turning the ignition off/on it would just signal from where it's last position was. I re-installed the original relay, and still got nothing so I know it's pooched.
So off comes the switch and I took it apart again. The spring is still inside the switch, so I lubed the pieces with a bit of electrolytic grease and reassembled. The push-to-cancel function still doesn't work - but - if I give the switch slight flick L or R (depending on which side is flashing) it will now cancel. At least standing still. I'll take it for a short run tomorrow to see if it works while on the road.
Sooooo... questions:
- By flushing the switch out with contact cleaner did I bugger it up? (I wouldn't think so...)
- OR could the switch already be buggered and it's just coincidence that the relay broke at approximately the same time?
- OR can a malfunctioning switch blow out a relay? (again, I wouldn't think so cuz theres a fuse between them...?)
- and finally... should I just go ahead and replace the whole L switch assembly regardless? (as I wouldn't think the switch is repairable)
such as this EBay '92 FJ left switch (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/-/272521045428?) (this is the same guy I bought the relay from :dash2:)
Since you have both units I would test them with a multi-meter. Then you would know if the continuity is lost when the push to cancel happens. The original unit might be put back together wrong. The push to cancel is mechanical. At least it is my '86.
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 24, 2017, 05:11:27 PM
The original unit might be put back together wrong.
+1. It isn't the most obvious thing to get it together correctly. Dry run the mechanism before sealing it up.
Frank
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 24, 2017, 05:11:27 PM
Since you have both units I would test them with a multi-meter. Then you would know if the continuity is lost when the push to cancel happens.
I would need a step-by-step for this, as my electrical know-how when it comes to using a meter is slim-to-none. I have a basic one, but haven't used it for anything in years (decades?) :blush:
Quote from: FJmonkey on April 24, 2017, 05:11:27 PM
The original unit might be put back together wrong.
Welll... I'll re-check again it tomorrow, though there were only 3 bits to remove.
Thx
If I have a spare then I will look at it tonight. Then I can walk you through testing it. It will not be difficult since you already have a simple tester.