I am installing a XJR1300 alternator. The main reason is for aesthetics. I have always disliked the look of the OEM alternator. Too me, it looks like something that belongs on a 1950's Massey Ferguson tractor.
Fred
Looks interesting Fred.....is there any additional wattage capacity with the XJR vs OEM ?
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 14, 2017, 09:46:32 AM
Looks interesting Fred.....is there any additional wattage capacity with the XJR vs OEM ?
I am not sure. Maybe Randy can answer that question. These can be purchased brand new on the RPM site. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Alternator (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Alternator)
Fred
I don't think there's any more watts to be found in the FJ/XJ alternator. When I was having starter issues a few years ago, I spoke to a guy that did custom winds for starters (24V) and also alternators. When I asked about squeezing some more out of the FJ Alternator, he just laughed! It's already at 100% of capacity for the case-no more, no how.
YMMV.
Ed
The alternator is installed. One thing to note. The mounting eyes on the XJR alternator are thicker than the FJ alternator mounting eyes. Longer bolts are required.
I also added a pair of auxiliary lights in preparation of my ride to the WCR. 3000 lumens each at 5000k color.
Fred
Damn!! Serious light Fred.
Quote from: FJmonkey on February 14, 2017, 08:29:04 PM
Damn!! Serious light Fred.
I will be trading out my 5000k HID light kit for a 5500k LED hi power kit that is 3800 lumens. This is the bulb I will be ordering.
http://www.aerostich.com/high-power-led-headlight-bulb-kit.html (http://www.aerostich.com/high-power-led-headlight-bulb-kit.html)
Fred
Nice mod there.......was there any weight difference between the two.
The XJR1300 alternator weighs about 1 pound more than the OEM FJ1200 alternator.
Fred
I must say Fred. You have the wurst case of the dreaded moditis disease. That I have ever seen. Hopefully someone will start group sessions​ so we can help each other recover from this.
Quote from: giantkiller on April 05, 2017, 08:25:04 AM
I must say Fred. You have the wurst case of the dreaded moditis disease. That I have ever seen. Hopefully someone will start group sessions​ so we can help each other recover from this.
Keep it quiet from Fred. There is an intervention planned at WCR. The process will involve plenty of sharing and a 12 pack program.
Quote from: giantkiller on April 05, 2017, 08:25:04 AM
I must say Fred. You have the worst case of the dreaded moditis disease. That I have ever seen. Hopefully someone will start group sessions so we can help each other recover from this.
I guess you've never met Pat. I think Pat is the most severe documented case. Fred's condition could still deteriorate(?) though, depending on how long his wallet holds out. I guess you could say, 'depending on his will to
spend'!
No, Fred has many more mods of his FJ than I have on mine...
....then again, I can only think of one 1350cc FJ (in the world) that has an uber trick 24v starting system...
Fred,,
Do you know what the aggregate current draw from the 5 lights is @ 14 v?
Simon
The lights are as follows.
Turn signal/running lights...White 5000k/Amber Cree Switchback LED 60 watts
Headlight...5000k HID 35 watts
Auxiliary driving lights...5000k Cree LED 120 watts/3000 Lumens
I will be able to get actual running amp draw numbers later this evening.
Fred
Hi Fred,
Where can I get a pair of clear running lights for my 93?
Quote from: aviationfred on April 05, 2017, 02:34:25 PM
The lights are as follows.
Turn signal/running lights...White 5000k/Amber Cree Switchback LED 60 watts
Headlight...5000k HID 35 watts
Auxiliary driving lights...5000k Cree LED 120 watts/3000 Lumens
I will be able to get actual running amp draw numbers later this evening.
Fred
Quote from: Mattman on April 05, 2017, 03:16:29 PM
Hi Fred,
Where can I get a pair of clear running lights for my 93?
Quote from: aviationfred on April 05, 2017, 02:34:25 PM
The lights are as follows.
Turn signal/running lights...White 5000k/Amber Cree Switchback LED 60 watts
Headlight...5000k HID 35 watts
Auxiliary driving lights...5000k Cree LED 120 watts/3000 Lumens
I will be able to get actual running amp draw numbers later this evening.
Fred
PM sent
Fred
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 05, 2017, 11:31:11 AM
No, Fred has many more mods of his FJ than I have on mine...
....then again, I can only think of one 1350cc FJ (in the world) that has an uber trick 24v starting system...
Shhhhh .... The 1st rule of 24V starters ..don't talk about 24V starters!
Hey Fred,
If we assume that the signals are 2 x 60 and the running lights are both 120 and the headlight only35 (?) without
a taillight that is nearly 300 watts total. That will be well over 20A total. The ignition system might be good for an
additional 5A. An amp or so to keep the battery happy, , , hmm, , how much amperage did you say that FJR alternator
is designed to deliver? The lights in the pic look like they're getting plenty of power. I guess we'll see when you put an ammeter in series with that load. Careful doing that, if your Fluke is like mine it has a fast fry 10 amp expensive/i]
fuse in it.
Simon
I just dug up an owners manual for the XJR. The alternator specs out as 28A@5,000 rpm. About the same FJ, IIRC.
Quote from: Earl Svorks on April 05, 2017, 05:39:33 PM
Hey Fred,
If we assume that the signals are 2 x 60 and the running lights are both 120 and the headlight only35 (?) without
a taillight that is nearly 300 watts total. That will be well over 20A total. The ignition system might be good for an
additional 5A. An amp or so to keep the battery happy, , , hmm, , how much amperage did you say that FJR XJR alternator
is designed to deliver? The lights in the pic look like they're getting plenty of power. I guess we'll see when you put an ammeter in series with that load. Careful doing that, if your Fluke is like mine it has a fast fry 10 amp expensive/i]
fuse in it.
Simon
I was not able to get any amp readings last evening. I will get the readings this evening. I know about the Fluke fuses. I have 3 Fluke meters. An 87 V, 179 and a 375 clamp meter
Fred
Here are the actual lights that I have.
Turn signal bulbs....http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1157-7528-Cree-60W-Led-Amber-White-Switchback-Turn-Signal-Light-Projector-/371374555871?hash=item5677a602df:g:HfgAAOSw9N1VmeY3&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1157-7528-Cree-60W-Led-Amber-White-Switchback-Turn-Signal-Light-Projector-/371374555871?hash=item5677a602df:g:HfgAAOSw9N1VmeY3&vxp=mtr)
Auxiliary driving lights....http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-125W-CREE-U5-LED-Headlight-Driving-Fog-Spot-Light-Lamp-For-Motorcycle-Switch-/112175611116?hash=item1a1e2ffcec:g:kxgAAOSwUEVYCh5X&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-125W-CREE-U5-LED-Headlight-Driving-Fog-Spot-Light-Lamp-For-Motorcycle-Switch-/112175611116?hash=item1a1e2ffcec:g:kxgAAOSwUEVYCh5X&vxp=mtr)
I am not going to list the HID headlight, being as they are typically known to draw 35watts.
To help keep the power draw down, I do have a LED tail light installed.
Fred
Fred, this looks like A LOT of lighting. However, lighting is like both speed & horsepower; too much is ALMOST enough! That being said, I have 2 questions:
1.) How many amps do the 1157 signal-running lights actually draw?
2.) How well does the white light pass through yellow lenses? I like the look of the yellow lenses, and would rather not change them, even with amber flashers. If you still have the OEM lenses perhaps you could pop them on & do bit of testing. If not, c'est la vie ...
Thanks!
Quote from: simi_ed on April 06, 2017, 01:47:13 PM
Fred, this looks like A LOT of lighting. However, lighting is like both speed & horsepower; too much is ALMOST enough!
Thanks!
That is an awesome quote.
I will be getting the amp draw on all of the lighting shortly. I think I ha e a stock set of orange lenses I can pop on for experimentation purposes.
Fred
Quote from: simi_ed on April 06, 2017, 01:47:13 PM
Fred, this looks like A LOT of lighting. However, lighting is like both speed & horsepower; too much is ALMOST enough! That being said, I have 2 questions:
1.) How many amps do the 1157 signal-running lights actually draw?
2.) How well does the white light pass through yellow lenses? I like the look of the yellow lenses, and would rather not change them, even with amber flashers. If you still have the OEM lenses perhaps you could pop them on & do bit of testing. If not, c'est la vie ...
Thanks!
Here is the answer to your questions with the Cree switchback 1157 bulbs.
1. The amp draw with the white running lights is .4 amps.
2. The white running lights have a good bright glow through the orange lenses and the orange light gives a good bright glow, just a bit of a darker shade. Photos are as follows.
1. Running light with the orange lens.
2. Turn signal activated and the flash off.
3. Turn signal activated and the flash on.
An added benefit that I like that IMO adds a bit of better safety factor is that with the switchback bulbs. When the flash is off, there is actually no light illuminated. With the OEM style incandescent bulbs. The running light alternates between the running light and brighter turn signal filaments.
Fred
I was able to get amp draw readings from all of the running lights.
HID headlight=3.2
LED Running lights=0.4x2
LED Auxiliary lights=0.4x2
LED Tail light=0.3
Total amp draw for all of the lights at 2500RPM is 5.1 amps
I used a Fluke 375 clamp meter
Fred
Quote from: aviationfred on April 06, 2017, 09:30:54 PM
I was able to get amp draw readings from all of the running lights.
HID headlight=3.2
LED Running lights=0.4x2
LED Auxiliary lights=.04x2
LED Tail light=0.3
Total amp draw for all of the lights at 2500RPM is 5.1 amps
I used a Fluke 375 clamp meter
Fred
Thanks for the information Fred. I think you slipped a decimal place on aux lights though; 0.4 instead of 0.04?
Q: are the signals brighter than the running lights? Otherwise, I like everything I see. I agree that the on-off when flasher is on is a cool deal. Surely more conspicuous FWIW. 'They' - cagers-- seem to ignore them anyway.
Good catch Ed. You are correct, I fixed it.
The White and the orange LED's have the same light intensity. They are extremely bright. The lenses diffuse the light quite a bit. At night, or even at dusk. I have noticed that when the turn signal is turned off and the white light comes back on. More road area lights up on that side. Kind of like the Cadillacs did back in the '90's and early '00's with the white bumper side lights that came on whenever the turn signal was activated.
Fred
Fred
Great posts, Fred and Ed. The LED lights use a lot less power to produce the same light. I just bought some LED light bulbs for around the house, these light bulbs produce 60W of light and only use 9W energy.
Kurt
Fred, I thought of a few more things:
1.) What happened with the flash rate with the LED turn signal bulbs? Same?
2.) Did you add resistors to slow the flash rate?
3.) Does your self-cancelling function still work?
Sorry, inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks!
Ed
Quote from: simi_ed on April 07, 2017, 03:57:45 PM
Fred, I thought of a few more things:
1.) What happened with the flash rate with the LED turn signal bulbs? Same?
2.) Did you add resistors to slow the flash rate?
3.) Does your self-cancelling function still work?
Sorry, inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks!
Ed
I've been using all LEDs and I love the switchbacks (I have clear lenses). To answer part of your question, don't add resistors. You're losing the advantage in power consumption LEDs give you. Instead, change the flasher unit to one designed to work with LEDs. It's a much easier and more elegant solution which doesn't require extra cutting into the harness. You can even find them with an adjustable flash rate.
Nope, not changing the flasher unit! I'm not surrendering my self-cancelling turnsignals!
Quote from: Nova on April 07, 2017, 06:12:58 PM
Quote from: simi_ed on April 07, 2017, 03:57:45 PM
Fred, I thought of a few more things:
1.) What happened with the flash rate with the LED turn signal bulbs? Same?
2.) Did you add resistors to slow the flash rate?
3.) Does your self-cancelling function still work?
Sorry, inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks!
Ed
I've been using all LEDs and I love the switchbacks (I have clear lenses). To answer part of your question, don't add resistors. You're losing the advantage in power consumption LEDs give you. Instead, change the flasher unit to one designed to work with LEDs. It's a much easier and more elegant solution which doesn't require extra cutting into the harness. You can even find them with an adjustable flash rate.
I will answer the questions and comments from both posts.
Ed's questions first
The flash rate is much faster as with any LED bulbs.
Yes, I have added resistors to slow the flash rate down. 6 Ohm 25W resistors were used.
I lost the self canceling feature 3 years ago when I did the digital speedometer mod. With the new Speed Hut gauges, the self canceling feature is still inop.
Nova's comments
The flasher relay is not as simple to swap. There are differences between the '89/'90 (3CW) and the '91-'93 (3XW) flasher relay's. The 3CW flasher relay has 5 wires going to it and the 3XW flasher relay only has 3. Most LED specific aftermarket flasher relays that I have been able to find are of the 3 pole type. I am sure that with enough time and effort, I could figure out exactly which wires of the 5 I would need to move over to the 3 pole LED relay. I am an electrician by trade and have no issues with splicing the correct resistors into the turn signal wires.
Ed, the self canceling feature should not be effected by installing the LED switchback bulbs. In the main instrument cluster attached to the white housing is a small reed switch that sits behind the speedometer. It senses motion and sends a signal to cancel the blinking at a pre set time after motion is detected.
Here is a photo of the reed switch
Fred
Fred,
Really impressed with the switchback led & clear indicator lenses. I've just googled the Switchback lights, how complicated is this change to do?
Would I be correct in assuming that there are the normal positive and negative wires for the indicator function, and also an extra live, taken from the existing lighting circuit.
Is the wiring complicated for an idiot like me? :wacko2:
Trev
Quote from: ELIMINATOR on April 24, 2017, 11:35:04 AM
Fred,
Really impressed with the switchback led & clear indicator lenses. I've just googled the Switchback lights, how complicated is this change to do?
Would I be correct in assuming that there are the normal positive and negative wires for the indicator function, and also an extra live, taken from the existing lighting circuit.
Is the wiring complicated for an idiot like me? :wacko2:
Trev
For the US spec bikes, there is no wiring to do. The FJ's are pre wired for running lights on the front. Probably the easiest way to add the running light to a UK/European spec FJ would be the purchase a R/L front turn signal housing from the US. Once you have the US spec housings, the Blue wires are for the running lights. Look in the Haynes/Clymer manual for the wiring diagram and tie the blue wire into the appropriate 12v power source.
Fred